Atomic's 1968 Tradewind Twin Renovation

[Bubba L]

Though I have installed a lot of copper in my day, I’m by no means an expert and probably couldn’t hold a job as a plumber. On our 66, I used all double flared connections. I don’t remember if was a RVIA new rule or because experts say they hold up better to vibration. It does make sense. I drew a quick diagram of the underneath copper lines and put that together on sawhorses. I had valves at each tee that went to an appliance. I closed the tees and tested the system with an air jet. I had one leak and tightened the nut a bit which took care of it. Then I attached the system to the belly pan. Whichever system works for you that you feel comfortable with. Have fun, Bubba

[ALUMINUMINUM]

That's a very neat and thorough install… Artwork to some of us.


On my '68, the original propane distribution was wholly intact. I mostly copied Airstream's install method with new tubing.. When I leak tested my new single flare installation, the only leak was at a NPT into the regulator, no flare leaks. The flare nuts will crack if over-tightened. I'll bet there's a torque specification for them.


Not arguing the superiority of double flare, but if a trailer shakes so much that it needs double flare to keep from leaking propane, there may be other problems to solve. Tubing usually cracks where the flare extrudes from the tube, so the double flare, while rated for higher pressure, is equally prone to crack at that point.


Tongue clutter is an issue for me, so a single 40# tank and Reese mini-lite WDH keep it neat.

[TouringDan]

That is some mighty fine propane line work by both Atomic_13 and ALUMINUMINUM. Here’s hoping you can fix any leaks you have by just tightening the fittings.

Dan

[dbj216]

I also replumbed the propane system in the son's 69. Much to my surprise I found two cracked flare nuts.

There is a torque spec, but don't quote me. I think it is "tighten two flats", or 2/6 rotation, after the nut snugs up on the flare. Lewster posted the spec in these Forums somewhere.

I tend to get stuff too tight to avoid leaks. I think these old flare nuts were cracked due to over tightening and vibration. I personally have never cracked one.

David

[Atomic_13]

Thanks, David. Looks like your recommendation is spot on. Here is a link that also provide torque specs: http://www.ite-tools.com/pdf/en/6-1-1.pdf

[Atomic_13]

It’s pretty darn exciting to transition to building furniture. I plan to have the same general layout, but build most of it from new materials (sans some face frames and door fronts). I moved the curb side overhead bin to the street side since it fit in the planned space better. I plan to forgo the curb side overhead bin to open up the space and allow for a bunk bed.



The two front dinette seats will each expand from 28x75" into two twins (38"x75" to sleep two) or pull completely (42"x75") together (via the pullout slat bed method) to make a single large bed (84"x75" to sleep three). The curb side couch will expand from 28"x75" to 38"x75. However, to add an additional sleeping space I plan to have the kitchen table top serve as a 28"x75" bunk above the couch.

Eight cushions (3@28”x75”, 2@14”x75”, 2@10”x75”, and 1@8”x75”) should provide sleeping space for up to 5 people (with 28” width each). Seems luxurious compared to the space in our mountaineering tents.



When not in bed mode, all three seats will use the 28” seat cushions and have 18-19” tall seat backs (is this a comfortable height?).

The galley will be 26” deep x 100” long with a sink and two burner cooktop on top of the counter and a side-by-side freezer/fridge below the galley (across from the entry door).

The closets will remain in the bathroom, next to galley (pantry downsized to 20” wide), and between the curb side couch and bathroom wall (for clothes).

The sailboat heater goes between the galley and street side dinette seat and a catalytic heater will be on the back wall in the bathroom facing the bathroom door.

The bathroom parts are going in my '68 overlander so I'm still working out what to do in the tradewind.

[dbj216]

Wow, a real bunkhouse! Sleeps 5. My old Trade Wind twin slept three.

I'm planning on 24" cushion bottoms for the Overlander gaucho. And then about a 20" seat back that lays down flat for a sleeping space. The foam rubber we bought came nicely in 24" widths.

You might consider a collasaping pedestal for the big bed support up front. We found that worked well, and then we could raise the support to make a dinette table. I found wooden bed slides that are cantilevered aren't the greatest supports.

David

[Atomic_13]

David - I have identified a source for the seating yet. How thick is yours? Perhaps 5”? Regarding bed stability, I’m optimistic that the I can make the pullout slats with a false face frame stable. Kinda like this:

[clydecrashcu]

"I still need the flex hose to connect the regulator to the main line."

I am redoing a 76 Argosy, yours is looking fantastic. I was wondering where you found your propane line from tanks to trailer connection? The line I found has a 1/4 inch female connection, my regulator looks like a 3/8 connection and my trailer connection looks like around a 3/4 connection.

[dbj216]

I've been using 4" thick foam for seating and gauchos. Form comes in all types of density and firmness. The wife selects the foam. I have a set of old twin mattresses that I use on the twin bed frames. Standard twin is 39 x 75 and the Airstream twin is 34 x 75. The mattresses are too big, but quite comfortable. The aisle to the bath is narrow. But I figure I can skinny down between the big, comfortable mattresses. It's worth it to me.

David

[Atomic_13]

Thanks, David.

Lee, I picked up the hose to connect the regulator to the copper line at vintage trailer supply: https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com...-p/vts-314.htm

[Atomic_13]

I wrapped up the installation of the bulkheads that make the pocket for the pocket door. My good friend and fly fishing partner, Eric, made the door, including hand carving the trout. He used wood from his family’s barn that was built in 1889. As you can tell he’s a craftsman and good friend.







We reused the original header, sliding track, rollers, and door pull. When reinstalling the door, we made certain the track was true in all directions (it required truing and shimming to make it straight). A homemade table saw taper jig makes perfect uniquely tapered shims. Prior to the installing the rear most bulkhead, a 3/4”x 5’ board was secured on edge to prevent the door from sliding off the track too far back in the pocket. The outer door edge (side with the door pull) now stops just slightly recessed in the pocket when closed.



During the install we measured the distance between the floor and track edge on both ends and adjusted the header to ensure this distance was equal. This made the track level with the floor. If the trailer is level side-to-side, the door will not slide on its own. The last step is to install Teflon sliders to prevent the door from rubbing on the bulkhead walls (which are painted white). Eric is working on a custom latch (using braided fly fishing line) to keep the door secured closed en route. The next step is to determine the location of the curbside bulkhead so the door has something flat to close against. I’ll install a rare earth magnet here to keep the door shut if the trailer isn’t level.

I also insulated the fender wells using 1” thick polyisocyanurate foam board. I constructed wood boxes with 1/2 plywood to cover them. These are dimensioned such that they’ll be used as a lower shelve in the street side galley cabinet or part of couch/bed on the curb side. Pink insulation filled the remain airspace above the foam but below the box. The should provide an insulation r value of 8-10 below the bed.

[ttbikes]

Looking Good!

[dbj216]

That's a whole bunch nice! The pocket door to the bath in my Trade Wind is the original bifold door that I screwed together and made a pocket door out of. I needed the floor space in the bath due to the toilet placement. The bifold door took a lot of floor space to open.

It isn't as nice as yours. It is only a little nice.

David

[ALUMINUMINUM]

Beautiful door. Very cool seeing folks individuating their trailers with thoughtful aspects.


I replaced the 68GT's pocket door with thinner 3/4”, 15 lite, fir, and had a similar adventure in the re-hanging. The rinky-dink hardware AS used isn't very robust, and does require some fuss to get it into perfect balance. Even then, if the trailer isn't parked very level, it gets grumpy.


I'm a big fan of the “see all the way through” rear view design feature of this vintage, so I always travel with pocket door bolted open, blinds and shades up/open, for a good view of what's hiding behind. My open door latch isn't very pretty. I re-used the AS door opening pull too, and bedded stainless finger hole pulls on both sides where the door stays balanced when sliding closed...


The GT's wood wheelhouse cabinet shelving is nearly identical to your method. I didn't build out the lower cabinets alongside the wheelhouses so I have about five feet of floor space across the kitchen. Our trailer is built for two. The abundant knee and toe-kick area is necessary when Godzilla is merrily pirouetting in the kitchen, so Bigfoot can get by her. Using a corner-drain residential sink allows this, and provides a nice big flat wet-work area.


Your door is excellent.

[dbj216]

Aluminuminum is of the Wally Byam philosophy. I understand he insisted on a "see through trailer" to help the tow vehicle driver. Side mirrors and big truck mirrors were not common in the sixties. Now days, the big side mirrors work good enough for me. I don't need a rear view mirror in my pick up at all. So the see through trailer idea is moot for me. But that's just me.

Here is a photo for my pocket door. It is made from the original bifold door. I post it so you can calibrate what a "little nice" is to a "whole bunch nice" like both of your bath doors.

David

[Atomic_13]

Thanks, gentlemen. I like the latch idea and recessed cabinet area below the sink. Regrettably my grey tank layout prohibits that approach. Also dig the aviation warning flags. Great idea that I plan to borrow.

I installed the flooring over the last few days... Opted to used luxury vinyl planks (Shaw Floorte, largo mix, lombardy hickory)




For what it’s worth, I’m still deciding what to do with the upper cabinet at the front of the trailer. It was stained/gel coated a maroon color. I’m leaning towards staining it to match the floor color. May just paint it white as well...

Regarding the flooring choice, the pros are:
- durable (20 mil coating)
- waterproof
- dimensionally stable (at least more so than many flooring options)
- can be swept/wiped clean
- easy to work with/install (no underlayment needed)
- provides some insulation and sound dampening
- looks nice

The cons are:
- pricey ($4.5/ft2)
- thick (6mm, not an issue for me since I installed this wall to wall - leaving a 1/4” gap on the perimeter)
- heavy (1.5#/ft2)

The cabinets will rest on the floating floor. When they need screwed to the floor I plan to cut out a 1/2” circle (using a forstner bit) in the vinyl plank for the screw to pass through to allow the floor to expand freely around the screw.

[ALUMINUMINUM]

Front interior end-cap cabinet


You know… That's where the eight-track goes…


Looking at the colors in your floor, I'm wondering if you could scuff the maroon paint a little, then paint with Minwax Polyshade. I don't like Polyshade to finish open raw wood, but I've used it over already varnished surfaces to adjust color and fake grain with success. maybe with two little cans of differing hues, you'd have a range of color where you could paint some similar floor streak.

Better, you could strip the frame, stain accordingly, then have door-maker friend (you gotta good thing going there) rift and plane new by-pass doors.


I stained cheap, in stock, box-store unfinished oak floor cabinet end panel, which fit easily into the aluminum glide channels. If ordered, other species available.


My originals were wood-immitated melamine sheet. Not pretty, may be why yours were painted. I think I see a vestige of that melamine on your bath door header. My original pocket door was sheathed in that stuff too, which lead to this more descriptive rant.…


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f7/p...ce-128019.html








The tags are fun reminders. They come in a variety of flight instructions and colors. Hundreds of them on eBay.


I learned to have a suicide door wedge, the hard way.

[Hittenstiehl]

Alumin

Really like your tag's might have to get some of those for our door holder.

[rmkrum]

One possibility from Amazon. Other variants available.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B5PSR2T...v_ov_lig_dp_it