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Old 08-27-2017, 08:53 PM   #113
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1968 24' Tradewind
1968 26' Overlander
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Let us know when you are in town, David. We'd love to meet you in person. Seeing your beautiful '66 Tradewind would be a bonus.

In addition to an excellent visit with Dale I checked off the following this weekend:

- installed the exterior belt and fender well trim
- removed, cleaned, and reattached the window drip caps (eliminating several olympic and a few pop rivets)
- removed, cleaned, and reattached the emblems and doorway handrail
- did a bit of polishing prior to reinstalling the above

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Old 08-28-2017, 07:31 PM   #114
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You did a great job on those old emblems. They look brand new. Actually you are building a brand new Airstream. I'm a big fan of drip caps. I think the mid sixties are the only year Airstream didn't use them. I think they are a significant reason the corning windows are prone to leaking. If you can direct some of the rain water away from the leaky glass bar to seal joint, then you likely will have less leaks. I have some drip caps for my trailer but I have not installed them.

David
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Old 08-29-2017, 08:25 PM   #115
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All your work looks great, what plans do you have for the interior?
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Old 08-31-2017, 10:20 PM   #116
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1968 24' Tradewind
1968 26' Overlander
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It's timely you should ask. I've been putting some thought into what the trailer should look like inside.

Think of a rustic but cozy cabin. Red cedar on select walls, dark cork floors, and white painted cabinets distressed by time and use. It's a trailer for fishermen, not for show. Fly rods will hang from the ceiling, and as William Wordsworth said, they'll be "true symbols of the foolishness of hope."

A front dinette will have a topographic map epoxied below the surface of the table. It will have space for myself, my closest friends, our fly tying vices, and whiskey. If one looks closely at the map, they'll notice handwritten notes about the number and length of our fish from that backcountry trip so long ago. These scribbles will undoubtedly contradict our recollections and stories.

Bunks on the curb side of the trailer will convert to a couch made for napping when the storm front has moved in and the fishing slows. The dinette and couch will be covered with brown leather upholstery and brightly-colored wool blankets.

The galley opposite the bunks will have a gas cook top with a copper tea kettle kissed by blue flames below. A filet knife, passed down from prior fathers, will sit by a cutting board and trout-sized sink. A side-by-side refrigerator across from the entry door will be stocked with freshly smoked cheeses and meats.

A heater made for sailboats will sit midship. Its smoke will rise above the trailer on cold fall evenings. The flickering flames behind the glass and its radiating heat will be welcomed after a long day casting for illusive steelhead on the Hoh River in Olympic National Park. Wet fishing flies will be drying near the stove. The air will smell of pine trees, campfires, and mountain streams.

A cedar Z-framed door will separate a rear bathroom containing a stock tank shower basin, exposed copper plumbing, and waxed canvas for the shower curtain and window blinds. Somewhere on the wall, perhaps across from the toilet, an old picture frame will display this quote on weathered paper:

"All America lies at the end of the wilderness road, and our past is not a dead past, but still lives in us. Our forefathers had civilization inside themselves, the wild outside. We live in the civilization they created, but within us the wilderness still lingers. What they dreamed, we live, what they lived, we dream." - T. K. Whipple, 1930
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Old 08-31-2017, 10:22 PM   #117
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Love it! Make it so! Pictures or it didn't happen....
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Old 09-01-2017, 06:23 AM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
Love it! Make it so! Pictures or it didn't happen....

I will indeed!
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Old 09-05-2017, 06:43 AM   #119
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1968 24' Tradewind
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I am amazed by all the little steps that need completed prior to installing insulation and the interior skins.

The prior weekend I installed the drip caps. A strip of butyl tape was sandwiched between the exterior skin and the aluminum drop cap. This weekend I taped off and added a thin bead of Trempro 635 to complete the seal.

The exterior outlet needed replaced, rewired, and resealed. I ended up purchasing some DIY 1/16 thick gasket material from NAPA. Between this and the Trempro 635 it should be water tight. For good measure, I sealed behind the shallow box in the interior wall and potted the BX cable entry points. The skin was polished prior to reinstalling the outlet.

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While I was on a roll, I also disassembled the Bargman L100 lock, cleaned and greased the internal components, fabricated a new seal using the above NAPA gasket sheet, polished the door, and then reinstalled the lock.

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Finally, 50' of 18/5 sprinkler wire was routed through grommets from the water pump area to the kitchen galley and bathroom vanity. This 18/5 wire bundle will be used to activate a 30 amp automotive relay to turn the water pump on or off from these locations.

Side tips - It would probably be preferred to use stranded 8723 wire but sprinkler wire was cheaper and accessible to me. Also, use a step drill bit to drill holes for the grommets in the ribs. It works great! Also use caution to not torque the ribs too much or you'll cause the nearby rivets to leak. Once the grommets and cable are installed I place a dab of Trempro on the grommets, the adjacent rib and the wire to keep them all in place.

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Old 09-07-2017, 06:05 AM   #120
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The list of steps needed to rebuild an old Airstream does seem endless at times. This is why it takes many times longer to reassemble than it does to tear it apart. There are a lot of threads written by excited new owners with great aspirations talking about gutting their Airstream only to go silent.

I spent an afternoon rebuilding my Bargman lock. I did remove the interior locking feature that can get a guy in trouble. Move the interior lever up accidently when leaving the trailer, shut the door, and find out you just locked yourself and your pet dog out of your trailer in your pjs, in the rain at 4am. We just use only the deadbolt for locking the trailer.

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Old 09-07-2017, 06:46 AM   #121
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1968 24' Tradewind
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That's a good idea, David. I might consider removing that locking feature as well. Installed some baby moon hub caps last night. They sure look nice.

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Old 09-07-2017, 08:16 AM   #122
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Atomic,

Did you use original baby moons? I have them on my 68 and one is in really bad shape. Thought of trying to have it rechromed but it is really thin in some spots. I have original wheels with the clips on the wheels to secure the caps. If you have source for original type hub camps I'd love to know. I don't want to use the newer style replacements.
Thanks and great work, brings back lots of memories. I wish I had know then all the things I know now, would have done a couple of things differently on my 68. Nothing major as I tried to keep it as original as possible.
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Old 09-07-2017, 05:37 PM   #123
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1968 24' Tradewind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68 TWind View Post
If you have source for original type hub camps I'd love to know.

Here you go: http://hubcapmike.com/airstream-trailer-hubcaps.html
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Old 09-24-2017, 09:17 PM   #124
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1968 24' Tradewind
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Atomic's 1968 Tradewind Twin Renovation

Checked off the last few items I wanted to accomplish prior to reinstalling the interior skins.

The center ceiling vent was removed and patched closed. This creates a 59 (fore/aft) roof section between the AC and the front fantastic fan. This area should be enough space for two 180 watt solar panels from AM Solar. Hoping to fit two 100 watt panels behind the AC to total to 560 watts.

4 AWG welding cable was routed through the fridge vent using Blue Sea Cable Clams. The wires were secured to the roof near the AC which is where Ill install the AM Solar combiner box.

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With the exterior work complete, I moved inside to secure the wiring to nearby ribs and the exterior skin. I used zip ties and Commercial Electric 1x1 exterior grade mounting bases to do so. Whenever possible, the 12 volt wiring was twisted around each other to reduce electromagnetic interference with electronics.

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Short videos were made that traced each 12 VDC and 110 VAC wire run from their respective distribution panel to their terminal destination. These videos might be helpful when adding on a new electrical device or if a wire short needs located.

Lastly, a thermal break was created between the ribs and the internal skins by installing 1/32x3/4 polyethylene foam tape (Scapa SR532V) to all the ribs and panel stiffeners. Im not sure if this will make much difference, but its unlikely to hurt anything. I considered using 1/16 thick foam but decided against it due to concerns with the inner skins dimpling around each rivet.

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Feels pretty nice to be ready to install insulation and the skins. Ive opted to use Roxul Safe-n-Sound in the walls. Thinking Ill need to hold it in place with masking tape and contact adhesive until the walls are in. Anyone have suggestions here?
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Old 09-25-2017, 07:34 PM   #125
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You are making great progress! It's fun to watch it all come together.

David
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Old 09-25-2017, 08:56 PM   #126
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We have made almost identical insulation choices.

Spray glue works very nicely for holding up the insulation until you get the interior skins in.

If you're using 3-1/2" batts and cutting them in half for proper thickness, an insulation knife is well worth the few dollars' investment.
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1968, frame repair, full monte, shell off, tradewind


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