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Old 10-17-2016, 06:57 AM   #85
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1968 24' Tradewind
1968 26' Overlander
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Removed, shortened, and reattached the rear end of the shell to fix the discrepancy between the frame and the shell length. Afterwards, we cleaned and installed the roof vents, fantastic fan, stack covers, windows, and lower skins.

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Old 10-17-2016, 06:56 PM   #86
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Holy Cow Kemosabe, that is some serious sheet metal work! I can't tell it was surgically shortened. I do see maybe a little bit bigger bumper storage space. Aerowood will be duly impressed.

You are getting close to a towable "aluminum tent" most of which is brand new. It's going to be a great Tradewind.

David
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Old 10-20-2016, 05:08 PM   #87
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Good eye, David. We did extend the bumper box by a few inches. If my memory serves me correctly, it's a 12 inch box now. Should provide plenty of room for the stinky slinky and hopefully the box lid will no longer hit the access door handle.
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Old 10-20-2016, 08:34 PM   #88
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I thought maybe the extra bumper storage area was due to the end cap being moved forward a bit.

Why Airstream installed the rear bumper door to open "backwards" is beyond my simple thinking. It does hit the rear compartment door handle. And if your bumper gets a ding, then the door doesn't open well at all.

Heck with it. I just mounted mine to open like I figured it should. It is easier to load and stays shut in the wind should I forget to tie it down. It ain't original, but it works better for me. My trailer isn't a show queen.

David
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Old 10-21-2016, 06:53 AM   #89
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Great idea to switch the orientation of the lid. I also like your modified latch. It reminds me of the way the rotomoulded coolers are closed (e.g. YETI or Engel).
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Old 10-21-2016, 06:33 PM   #90
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Rubber draw straps are used for a lot of things, like holding the front hood down on big trucks. Maybe this idea will stimulate your thinking and you will come up with the Atomic 13 patented rear bumper storage compartment door for Airstreams, and then become very wealthy.

David
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Old 11-08-2016, 01:09 PM   #91
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I’m at the phase where you work like a dog but have little to show for it… most of the following effort will be hidden behind walls or cabinetry but are no less important. Here is an update of what’s been recently completed:

1) I welded a 3” x 1.5” section of 11 gauge angle between the main frame rails in the bumper trunk to create a rear hold down plate and also serve as a method to protect the rear plywood from water entry. I covered the 1.5” section that sits vertically between the c channel and exterior skin with roof flashing tape to prevent galvanic corrosion. The 3” section of the angle also serves nicely as a bumper trunk lid attachment point. Following David’s lead, I installed the lid opposite of the factory orientation and plan to install hold down straps to keep the lid closed since the standard spring clips don’t work with enclosed rectangular tubing. The final step was to flash this area with aluminum sheet and trempro 635 to dress it up and further divert water away from the subfloor. Expanded metal was used for the floor of the bumper box for strength. I might add a section of belly pan aluminum below to minimize road moisture/dirt from entering the trunk but haven’t decided. I plan to store the stinky slinky in a trash bag in this area. The dump valve pulls are located on the street side inside the trunk. This area was painted with silver POR 15 top coat after sanding the epoxy primer with 320 grit sand paper.

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2) The safety chains, 7 conductor wire/plug, and break away switch were installed and routed inside the trailer via the spare tire area. An electrical bulkhead potted with trempro 635 protected the wires from chaffing. The front A frame was painted at the same time using the same method as the bumper trunk.

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3) The 7 conductor wire junction box was installed just aft of the front hold down plate, inside the trailer. This area will be covered by the dinette and will also be the location for the 12 volt distribution fuse panel, converter, and batteries. Dual 26 gallon fresh water tanks will sit below the curb and street side seats of the dinette. The water pump will be located under the street side dinette seat and the two tanks will be connected in series via PEX. When the 52 gallons of fresh water is empty my grey tanks will be full so no need for tank monitors. To keep the tongue weight down, I’m considering towing with the tanks half full but placing a 30 gallon holding tank in the truck bed in front of the rear truck axle and using a pump to fill the trailer tanks full once we are at our super secret, off the beaten path, fly fishing location.

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4) All the exterior marker lights were replaced with LED bases from VTS. The brake ground (white) and power (blue) wires were joined using a 5 connector mini bus bar and tied into the trailer wiring. One wire from the breakaway switch was tied into the junction box blue threaded pole (brake power) and the other to the black pole (battery power). When the breakaway switch is activated (pulled) the circuit closes and allows power from the trailer battery to flow to blue wire activating the trailer breaks. All the interior connections of the 7 way wire were soldered, covered with wire nuts and heat shrink. The following standard color scheme was used: tail/marker lights (green), left turn and brake (red), right turn and brake (brown), ground (white), brakes (blue), power (black), reverse light (yellow), The white pole (ground) was connected to the frame via the c channel. A black 10g wire was connected from the black pole to the trailer battery (to supply power for the breakaway switch).

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5) A modified deadbolt from vintage trailer supply was installed in the entry door. This was a PITA due to various obstructions, however it turned out great and opens/closes super smooth.

6) The two non-standard 1970’s windows and the roof vent screens were removed, cleaned, and new gaskets were installed. We were fortunate to get several days of rain enabling me to leak test and fix some minor areas. For example, various things have been attached to the trailer over the years with pop rivets. These were removed and replaced with solid shank (bucked) rivets.

Next up…

1) Several rows of leaky olympic rivets are present from past repairs. These will be replaced with solid shank (bucked) rivets.

2) The vista view and stack windows leak and need removed, resealed, and reinstalled.

3) I’m considering purchasing an english wheel and learning how to roll out the hail damage and other dents in the end caps. Eastwood and harbor freight both sell reasonably priced ($300-$400) offerings that would likely serve the purpose. I don’t think I can get these straightened out for less money.

4) The AC needs reinstalled.

Following the above I might tackle polishing the end caps prior to installing the interior walls. I’d hate to push in a former dent and not be able to correct it.
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Old 11-08-2016, 01:16 PM   #92
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Here are a few more pictures that wouldn't fit in the above post.

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Old 11-08-2016, 06:29 PM   #93
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You did create an Atomic 13 patented rear bumper storage area. Very nicely done. Same with the exterior lights, same with the dead bolt. It's good to replace Olympic rivets with solid rivets while you can. It's going to be a great vintage Airstream.

I was able to diminish dents in my front banana wraps using a bag of sand and a light hammer. I read about this method on Air Forums. I put the banana wrap on the sand and tapped ever so lightly with the small "tack" hammer. The aluminum banana wrap was off the trailer at the time of course. The bag of sand keeps the metal from moving too far and too fast and conforms to the curves. Others have used a small steel roller to roll out hail damage. I bet you can diminish those hail dents one way or another. If the metal is stretched due to a deep dent, it won't come back perfectly smooth.

David
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:35 PM   #94
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Beautiful

It's encouraging and impressive to watch your thread. You have a remarkable sense of correctness, and an excellent, most admirable skill-set. You are making your TW happy, I'll bet it's purring like a kitten... There's another thread that pops up occasionally where I can hear the agonizing screams from the poor little trailer being butchered into the owner's unwitting vision.

I looked at all the cheap English wheels, and every one appeared to be manufactured in the same Chinese factory, just different color paint, distributors and prices. Around here, the $399HF wheel is almost always on sale for $299, and they additionally honor the printable on-line 25% off coupon, which brings it down to $225. Pretty cheap! There are some older reviews marginalizing its precision, but HF only sells their new improved model today. It works perfectly for a hobbyist. I really didn't expect it to be so well built for its price. It comes with one anvil, that's about right for everything AS. You may be inclined to get the whole anvil set, but I don't see any reason for them all, unless you’re going pro, or you have insatiable planishing curiosity. They're really fun, and easy to learn!

I like the idea, and almost used expanded stainless for the bottom of my bumper box, but gave way to braking a sheet of .050” 5052 instead for of fear of road grime infiltration, and losing any little bits of important who knows what that might get left in there. My GT is rebuilt closer to original back there and needed some protection.

I don't know if David's TW bumper door/lid was configured with the ears to wrap the shore-power cord onto. The 1968 has those ear-tabs riveted onto its hinged lid to store the 120V power-cord. If it hinged on body side of the cavity, the weight of the cord would cause the door to always fall closed. When open, it will inhibit access to the rear service door/area. Originally, there were times when both might need to be open at the same time. Maybe that's why it's originally hinged at the bumper. I'm using a Marineco QD for shore-cord, so it stores elsewhere.

Thanks for your inspiration and great photos
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Old 11-11-2016, 05:55 AM   #95
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Thanks to you both for your comments and suggestions. I don't have much experience shaping metal so I'm looking forward to the challenge. I'm glad to hear the HF english wheel is a good entry level purchase.
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Old 11-12-2016, 04:47 AM   #96
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Nice running lights !!
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Old 11-13-2016, 08:22 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALUMINUMINUM View Post
There's another thread that pops up occasionally where I can hear the agonizing screams from the poor little trailer being butchered into the owner's unwitting vision.
Wow. What a mean thing to say.
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Old 11-15-2016, 09:47 PM   #98
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I've enjoyed having this closer to home to tackle smaller projects during the weekday evenings. I ordered replacement glass from VTS. One of 3 panes were replaced tonight.

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