With the weather warming I’m back at it. Over winter I tinkered on the trailer here and there sealing various minor leaks after each storm. I found AcrylR and Airstream’s applicator to be quite helpful. I also coated all the inside seams with Trempro 635. I'm fairly sure I applied and re-applied Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure to every rivet on the trailer.
I was pleasantly surprise to learn that Vintage Trailer Supply (VTS) carries the round gasket (with an attached T) to reseal the rear and side access panels. If you tackle this be sure to cut the gasket long and compress it to allow for linear shrinking with age. You can install the gasket without disassembling the panel frame if you use a plastic chisel to insert the rubber T into the frame slot. I noted the factory added a dime sized dollop of what looks like AcrylR to the inside of the mitered corners. I did the same.
I was able to source some 1/8” ABS sheet to replace my weathered vista view pull down shades. I transferred the aluminum handles from the old shade to the new ABS sheet.
I removed and resealed the lower stack windows. The smaller of the two windows had been replaced with a piece of glass 1/2 too short so a crack was present alongside one of the side walls. I had a local glass shop temper a new piece of glass 1/2 inch longer. No more leaks! Here is what the original gaskets looked like from
1968. I applied a bead of Trempro 635 to the outside and used the VTS recommended gasket to the inside.
With the trailer sealed up and water tight, I moved on to the AC wiring. This required installation of the 30 amp power cord inlet on the outside of the trailer. I also installed a 30 amp breaker box and wired it RV style with a floating neutral (not connecting ground to neutral). The ground BUS bar is attached to the frame with an 8 gauge copper wire.
I added the following breakers:
1) 30 amp breaker which feeds the breaker box rales with power from the campsite pedestal (protects the 10 gauge wiring from the trailer to the shore power).
2) 20 amp breaker / 12 gauge BX wire routed to the AC (I added grommets for added protection against chafing and shorts, though with armored BX cable it likely isn’t necessary)
3) 15 amp GFI breaker / 14 gauge BX - exterior outlet and the interior outlets near water
4) 15 amp breaker / 14 gauge BX - microwave
5) 15 amp breaker / 12 gauge BX - hot water heater
6) 15 amp breaker / 14 gauge BX - remaining outlets, refrigerator, and converter
Next up is to:
Add a layer of Reflectix alongside the inside of the shell. I should have done this prior to routing all the AC BX wire but I can slide it behind them.
Following the Reflectix I’ll install the
12 volt wiring (making sure AC and DC wiring are not routed through the same grommet). I’ve purchased a 500’ spool of 12 gauge stranded white white to home run as much of the
12 volt wiring to the
12 volt fuse box as possible. I know you can ground to the frame but this will hopefully avoid ground issues later. I also purchased several different colors of stranded wire for the positive wire to have multiple different 12 volt circuits. The converter, batteries, and 12 volt distribution/fuse panel will be located under the front window.
At some point I want to install the following electrical gadgets and therefore need to pre-run the following wiring:
- Solar - red and black 4 gauge welding cable routed from the roof, via the fridge vent, to the battery
- TV - audio output to stereo, RG6 coax to connect campsite cable to the TV, HDMI to connect a DVD player to the TV
- Stereo - 16 gauge speaker wires to speakers, RG58 antenna cable to roof via fridge vent
- WiFi booster - requires 50 ohm / low resistance coax with with male N connectors from AC on top of the trailer (location of the WiFi antenna) to the WiFi repeater (inside trailer above fridge). The repeater is connected to a mid ship internal antenna with the same type of cable.
- 4G cell booster - will install factory antenna on exterior roof and route cable down refrigerator vent to internal booster once purchased
- AC drip cup drain tube from AC to grey tank
- Water pump control switch (8723 control wire from cabinet switch to relay next to water pump)
- LED light switches (needs wires ran from lights to switches and then to 12 volt distribution panel)
- Marker light switch - route black and green wire from the 7 conductor box to a switch area to power LED marker lights while camping
Following the routing of the 12 volt and accessory cables I’ll install the Roxul fiberglass insulation and then install the interior walls. Then on to interior paint, flooring, bathroom parts, cabinets, plumbing, etc.
So when so I get to go camping?