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Old 12-16-2019, 01:45 AM   #401
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1968 24' Tradewind
1968 26' Overlander
Detroit , Michigan
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Atomic's 1968 Tradewind Twin Renovation

I fleshed out my wiring diagram to illustrate the various components of the control panel, an updated solar panel configuration (480W on the trailer’s rooftop with an additional 200-400W on the truck bed topper), and a reorganized battery bank layout. Installing the batteries single file reduced the length of connecting cables by approximately 66% from what was previously proposed (reducing cost and electrical resistance).

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Here is the final battery bank layout:

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The electrical frame ground was installed using a 3/8 self tapping screw into the main frame rail. This connects to a negative bus bar I fabricated using a 1” by 0.25” copper bar (equivalent to 4/0 wire). This bar connects to a battery monitor shunt (Victron BMV 712).

By luck, the frame ground is located perfectly between where the batteries will be secured and a future full extension drawer (24”x12”x12”) that will pull out into the trailer’s entryway. Given its easy access while standing outside at the front door, I’ll store grilling utensils, and other outdoor item here. All of this is under the curb side front dinette seat. I plan to build a wall between this drawer and the electrical so items don’t bounce out of the drawer onto the +|- bus bars (causing an electrical short).

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Last, I installed the solar charge controller (Victron 150/35) and routed the 4AWG wires to the junction block at the front of the trailer (where the wires from the trailer roof and truck solar enter the trailer). Down the road, when I install solar panels on my truck topper, I’ll need to upsize this controller to accommodate the additional amps. This 150/35 will be moved the truck bed to charge a single battery for when we sleep in the truck bed in route to wilderness backpacking/fly fishing trips.

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Old 12-16-2019, 02:48 AM   #402
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1968 24' Tradewind
1968 26' Overlander
Detroit , Michigan
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Atomic's 1968 Tradewind Twin Renovation

Here is the location of the inverter/charger (Victron Multiplus 12V/3000VA/120A):

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While it is ok for it to lay on its side, I wanted to be certain it had adequate ventilation on all sides. As a result made a mounting support and cut out as much as was structurally possible. Cool air will be drawn from the floor and will pass through the device at its top.

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To further help with airflow and temperature regulation I plan to also install 1-2 low amp draw computer fans (on the dinette seat wall) and a dual stage thermostat (Inkbird ITC 1000). I’ll set the fans to run when the electrical cabinet exceeds specific upper and lower temperatures but remain off when the batteries and other electrical components are within an acceptable range (e.g. 50-85). I’m optimistic that by strategically routing 4” ducting in the electrical compartment, I’ll be able to keep the batteries and other electrical within their optimal operating temperatures. At some point I may install heating pads on the LiFePO4 batteries.
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Old 12-16-2019, 04:09 AM   #403
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Nice clean job . You should have it by the handle.
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Old 12-17-2019, 04:59 AM   #404
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Very impressive electrics. You should have plenty of power for almost anything.

Suggestion,I used two of these temperature controlled fans to help with refrigerator / water heater venting and have been very pleased. Use almost no power until needed, then when they sense heat, they move a bunch of air. - Mark

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Old 12-17-2019, 06:01 AM   #405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomic_13 View Post
Thanks for the additional info about rivnuts.

I tested out the water pump relay and must admit I was pretty smitten when it worked! Follow confirmation that it did, I joined the wire junctions with heat shrink adhesive crimp connectors and tidied everything up with zip ties and wire looms.
Just discovered your thread...great job and ideas...

I was wondering if you could explain the routing set up of your water tank. That will be my next project on "Audrey"
Specifically the routing of the bottom blue and white lines that are on the bottom of the tank...also where is the blue line coming from at the top of tank. Thanks

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Old 12-17-2019, 06:51 AM   #406
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1968 24' Tradewind
1968 26' Overlander
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Here is a couple of views that may help:

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The 60 gallon freshwater tank sits at the front of the trailer below the dinette seat (pictured on the right). It can be filled by either the city water hookup (located in the customary street side rear location) or the freshwater fill port (located at the front exterior of the trailer.

The large diameter white hose is the tank fill and the small diameter (curved) white hose is the water pump intake (from the freshwater tank) and outlet (connects to main blue PEX supply line at the bottom left of the picture).

It’s not easy to see in the first picture, but the freshwater tank is vented through the upper most spun weld fitting on the tank. This blue PEX line exits the tank and passes through the floor into the spare tire compartment. The silver valve (shown in the more recent first photo) prevents water from sloshing out of the tank vent while in route.

At this location on the floor a T fitting also routes blue PEX to a valve positioned to the right of the water pump (hard to see in the top picture). When this valve to the right of the water pump is open and the valve below the water pump is closed (main supply line), the tank will be drained through the floor. If both these valves are open the supply lines and tank are drained.

If the valves left of the water pump (water pump outlet) and right of the water pump (tank drain valve) are closed, but the valve below the water pump is open, the freshwater tank can be filled when city water is connected to the trailer.
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Old 12-23-2019, 09:45 PM   #407
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1968 24' Tradewind
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Atomic's 1968 Tradewind Twin Renovation

Made some progress on the control panel. This surrounds the vent above the refrigerator. I plan to install doors on the front of this cabinet to hide the electronics.

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Old 12-23-2019, 09:54 PM   #408
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Very nice

That was quick, seems your were just considering that Saturday night. Looks really good!
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Old 12-24-2019, 02:53 AM   #409
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Beautiful control panel. I am not sure that I would cover it up with doors though.

Dan
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Old 12-24-2019, 08:55 AM   #410
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1968 24' Tradewind
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Thanks Mike and Dan.

Dan - I feel the same way about covering it up.
But all that technology doesn’t align with the other design elements in the trailer. Also, while parked, I’d prefer those walking by to not see that expensive technology is on board. I haven’t decided exactly what I’ll use. I’m considering:

1) two 10” wide doors that could be left open at camp

2) waxed canvas on a small curtain rod attached to the upper the cabinet’s overhanging top (think of Filson bags, trucker jackets, etc)

3) a cleated panel, with some design/art piece affixed to it, that can be removed at camp when I need to see the control panel

I like options 2 or 3 since the counter will not obstructed by open doors. Option 2 is nice in that it doesn’t require stowing the panel elsewhere.

Anyone have other ideas?
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Old 12-25-2019, 12:04 PM   #411
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Have been enjoying your thread, admire your skill. A Masterful trailer indeed.



The monitoring panel needs protection from whatever activity occurs on the counter space in front of it.. One mishap with the Bass-o-Matic, and you'll have a fine mess.


#2) the curtain works


I'm thinking tambour made of a material or pattern that would balance some space, color or texture, and water repellent. If I had your patience and determination, I'd make tambour from my old flyrods..
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Old 12-25-2019, 07:17 PM   #412
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Merry Christmas all. The wife is cleaning up the kitchen, so here I sit.

I've seen, and my wife's Limited, have a "spice cabinet" in the galley behind the stove which is a small cabinet with a tambour door in front of it. You might consider something like that. It is vintage Airstream, and it can be rolled up whenever wanted. Here is a poor picture of it.

My "control panel" is just the SeeLevel instrument. At least it is something I can understand.

David
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Old 12-25-2019, 07:19 PM   #413
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Haha, Bass-O-Matic. Blended smoothies are back in style. I’ll have to add that to the packing list.

A tambour door from fly rod sections would be awesome. Might have to shut a few more rods in the truck door to accumulate some building materials.
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Old 01-17-2020, 09:18 PM   #414
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1968 24' Tradewind
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Atomic's 1968 Tradewind Twin Renovation

Some may recall, my failed dinette tabletop attempt. I flooded distressed pallet wood with epoxy but it was so porous that it continuously off gassed, filling the epoxy with bubbles as it cured. Well, I couldn’t live with that so I decided to go a different route.

Pallet wood:
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In keeping with the walnut countertop theme, I decided to glue up some 5/4 walnut and send it through a wide belt sander ending up just over 1” thick. My nephew put this together for me with “scrap” falloff from various jobs at my brother’s wood shop. One man’s trash is another man’s treasure.

Here is a sneak peek of the sanded but unfinished panel. It’s a pretty incredible grain pattern.

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I’m looking forward to getting some coats of finish on it. Like my walnut galley countertop, I’ll likely apply multiple coats of Waterlox. Here’s an illustration of how Waterlox changes the look of walnut.

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Old 01-18-2020, 05:33 AM   #415
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That will be one gorgeous table top. One of the Zen-like side effects of working on these old aluminum cans is the relative ease with which we are able to look at the end product of something that seemed like a good idea at the time, go “nah” and start over. Small wonder it takes so long to get to the finish line. But once it settles in that the journey is pretty enjoyable in its own right, time takes a back seat. Writing bullshit like this is fun, too.
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Old 01-31-2020, 08:48 PM   #416
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Atomic's 1968 Tradewind Twin Renovation

We made some progress on the dinette table. After glueing up about 12 board feet of 5/4 walnut into a plank, we passed it through a wide belt sander and used a 3 axis CNC router to cut the table to size and chamfer the edges.

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Following block sanding, I applied seven thin coats of Waterlox to the walnut. Overall, I’m pleased with the finish.

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While I was at it, I built a desk for my daughter using hickory. We used an atypical finishing approach that, while off topic, may be of interest here. We applied a coat of dark walnut stain/dye and then sanded the surface back to raw hickory, leaving only the grain stained. I sealed this with the same number of coats of Waterlox. This turned out nice as well. Perhaps I’ll use this approach on my Overlander?


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Old 01-31-2020, 11:50 PM   #417
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Wow! Serious router system...Norm would love it!

Great finish on the table! Has great depth and shine.

Also like the stain and resand idea.
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Old 02-03-2020, 02:57 PM   #418
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Following block sanding, I applied seven thin coats of Waterlox to the walnut. Overall, I’m pleased with the finish.

That sure is one pleasing finish. Looks great!! Better get that Tradewind done, lest we run out of superlatives. Or die of envy, whichever comes first.
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Old 02-04-2020, 05:10 PM   #419
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Beautiful!
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Old 02-23-2020, 08:05 AM   #420
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1968 24' Tradewind
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In a different thread, we were discussing the pros/cons of wall to wall flooring. I wanted to repost my thought here for anyone reading this thread later on (since I ultimately changed direction from my original approach). I plan to install flooring much later (and not wall to wall) on my next Overlander project.

In this Tradewind, I installed a LVT floating floor wall to wall but ended up removing the sections of flooring under the cabinetry. While I was able to get a nice layout on the floor using this approach I wasted a significant amount of flooring in the end.

Regarding my thoughts of not having flooring under the cabinets:

1) it saves a significant amount of weight and cost

2) it eliminated the risk of the cabinet weight binding the floor in one area while adjacent sections move as relative humidity and temperatures fluctuate (leading to floor tile separation)

3) I prefer to be able to inspect the subfloor around the perimeter for leaks

4) when leaks do occur water isn’t trapped between the subfloor and tile (promoting rot)

5) if needed, floor replacement is much easier if it terminates at the cabinet edge

6) LVT is much thicker than the factory tile which may create issues with reusing old rivet holes in the walls when reinstalling F channel for bulkheads and other original cabinetry

A downside is the need for quarter round to be installed around the floor perimeter which doesn’t look as clean as a wall to wall installation. Had I used a full sheet of marmoleum I’d go with the wall to wall approach.
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