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Old 10-31-2019, 07:56 PM   #381
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Wow, what a power plant your Trade Wind will have. Many Airstreamers, including the factory, are opting for these diverse systems. I've boondocked for a couple of nights with only "uni-power" 12v from the two lead acid batteries in our trailer. No 120v at all. It wasn't just everything. The batteries were below 12v the morning we left. I did buy a used Honda 3000w generator so I could charge the batteries and have a little AC power if needed. It works just fine. I think 3000w is a better option but they are heavy. Mine weighs 135 pounds. That is the extent of our boondocking equipment.

You are going first class with your trailer. Lookout trout.

David
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Old 11-03-2019, 07:26 AM   #382
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Those last few words, if somehow squeezed into a vanity license plate, would perfectly grace the rear of Atomic_13’s Tradewind.
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Old 11-04-2019, 06:08 AM   #383
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You are closing in on it in grand style!
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Old 11-04-2019, 03:59 PM   #384
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Atomic's 1968 Tradewind Twin Renovation

The shower tiling is a wrap! Here were the steps I used:

Final area preparation:
The shower substructure was constructed (see prior post). I set the shower pan and secured it with 1” aluminum angle (mainly to provide the correct width for the tile). I used adhesive foam to shim the pan securely in place so it wouldn’t later move and compromise tile grout lines. The plywood and back of each tile (12”x12”x4mm glass mosaic tile) were vacuumed, dusted with a slightly damp sponge, and allowed to air dry (to promote their adhesion to the Musselbound, which is a doubled sided mat that comes on 12” wide and 15’ long rolls)

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Tiling:
I pre-cut as many of the glass mosaic tiles that I could prior to installing the adhesive tile backing. I used a manual tile cutter which worked just fine (and minimized dust and water from wet saws). The Musselbound was applied to the plywood surface to be tiled (work from top to bottom). Five seconds of firm pressure was applied to all areas of the Musselbound using a firm epoxy grout float. I then temporarily peeled back the outer liner near each seam of the Musselbound to apply the seam tape (for waterproofing). The outer liner was re-installed to avoid dust, clothing, gnats, etc from being stuck to the product during installation of the tile. As needed, I removed sections of the outer liner to install the meshed-back mosaic tiles. Note, if the tiles are softly set in place you can remove and reposition them as needed. Once I was satisfied with an area, I again applied five seconds of firm pressure using a firm epoxy grout float to set the tiles in place (adhesion was really impressive!)

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Grouting:
The tiles were then grouted with a silicone-based grout (https://flextile.com/products/) that remains flexible after curing. It comes in a standard size caulking gun tube which covered 3ft^2/tube (my mosaics were just shy of 1”x1”). I found it worked best to cut the tube tip just larger than my grout line and squeeze the grout into each line (slow but less of a mess to clean up). I followed this with the epoxy grout float to ensure all grout lines were full of the silcone. Apply only 1 tube worth of content and then clean the tile surface using water, dish soap and a scrubbing sponge (I used the ones provided by Flextile). Work from bottom to top so water (from the sponge) does not get behind un-grouted tiles (which may compromise their adhesion to the Musselbound backing). Be sure to clean off your float periodically or the silicone grout will stick indefinitely. I debated the relative merits of pre-grouting the tile. I talked myself out of it hoping the silicone grout would also adhere to the backing. Time will tell if this was a good idea or not. Flextile has some videos about using the product here:

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Next up: re-install the floor, set the toilet, install the shower valve and head, and then spend some time considering what to do for a shower curtain.
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Old 11-04-2019, 08:53 PM   #385
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Very nice job, Brian. Saying Wow! is getting a little redundant, but Wow!
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Old 11-04-2019, 09:03 PM   #386
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Looks amazing! Can’t wait until I can steal your ideas! Just wish I could steal your craftsmanship too!
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Old 11-06-2019, 10:13 AM   #387
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Dan -


One cannot steal what is freely given. I feel fortunate to have lagged behind Brian in my project. I say a silent prayer of thanks to him every time I look at my Dickenson heater. Now I just have to pray for the will to hook it up.
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Old 11-06-2019, 04:46 PM   #388
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Don’t delay, Dale. I fired mine up last night as I was finishing up some odds and ends on the shower. It’s a treat to sit and watch the flames flicker.

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Old 11-07-2019, 06:12 AM   #389
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That Pale Ale is well deserved. The shower is beautiful. - Mark
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Old 11-09-2019, 11:14 PM   #390
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You are doing an amazing job. The trailer is beautiful.
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Old 11-11-2019, 04:52 PM   #391
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Looks great !
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Old 11-16-2019, 12:15 PM   #392
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Atomic's 1968 Tradewind Twin Renovation

Devising a method to hang a shower curtain on the interior end cap was another project that didn’t have a simple solution. I considered Aluminuminum’s excellent design summarized previously (see: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...on-147648.html) but decided it wasn’t generalizable to my shower area given the center support pole would obstruct the left leg of those using the toilet.

As a result, i was looking for a solution that was free floating (that is, didn’t require floor support) and didn’t excessively encroach into the headroom of the shower or toilet area. Lastly, I preferred the upper section of the shower curtain to extend beyond the diminutive dimensions of the shower pan to provide the user more room to move about.

I ended up using items available at Vintage Trailer Supply (VTS). They sell a horizontal small curtain track, sliders, and end stops (links below) that had the low profile I was looking for. I was worried that given the tight confines of my 24”x32” shower stall the track wouldn’t be sufficiently malleable to fit the compound curves in the area. With some physical and verbal encouragement I was able to adequately bend and rotate the track along the curvature of the end cap using the methods outlined below.

Bending the track along its lateral/horizontal plane is difficult and must be done carefully to avoid damaging the track. To do so, I clamped a short (~2”) section of schedule 40 PVC pipe into the “pipe jaws” of a bench vice. The aluminum track was passed through the PVC pipe and I carefully pulled each end of the track (entering and exiting the PVC pipe) towards me. This took several passes though the PVC pipe to permanently form a horizontal arc in the track. I considered using a heat gun to warm the aluminum track but ultimately didn’t need to do so. Forming an arc in the track on the anterior/posterior plane (i.e. in the direction of the ceiling to floor) is much easier. The last adjustment was to gently rotate the track along its length by twisting the the track so that it followed the compound curve of the end cap.

This is slow, tedious work. In the end, it’s not perfect (i.e. there are a few small gaps between the end cap and the track) but these are for the most part imperceptible to the casual observer. Note that riveting the track to the end cap (which I did every 6 inches) should be done from one end to the other which permitted some fine tuning of the arc and rotation in the track as you progress to the other end. I chose to start near the shower head as I was less concerned about the precise location the track would end up on the lower street side wall.

In retrospect, I would attempt the above using the large curtain track from VTS. I suspect its “U” shape (as apposed to the F shape of the horizontal small track), would minimize the resistance of the track to be formed into a horizontal arc. Presumably one could secure the “U” shaped track to the end cap with rivets installed inside the track. It would be worthwhile to confirm with VTS that the large curtain sliders have sufficient clearance so the rivet head wouldn’t obstruct their movement along the track.

Once it arrives, I’ll install the shower curtain and trim the bottom of the curtain so that excess fabric doesn’t accumulate in the shower pan when it’s fully deployed. I’ll also need to install a hold back strap that will keep the shower curtain bundled when not in use.

Here are links to the parts used:
- 94” VTS horizontal small curtain track (used 80”) https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com...-p/vts-702.htm
- 14 VTS small curtain sliders https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com...-p/vts-475.htm
- 2 VTS small track end stops https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com...-p/vts-704.htm
- 1.5” paper binder rings to connect the sliders to the curtain
- 5/32” by 1/4’ aluminum shank pop rivets (spaced ~ every 6”)
- Shower curtain (cut to the appropriate length since the track height from the floor varies along it’s length)
- Retaining strap (when the curtain is stowed)

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Old 11-17-2019, 08:43 AM   #393
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Nice work!!!!
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Old 11-17-2019, 11:27 AM   #394
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You just solved my shower curtain problem for the Overlander. It came with a folding plastic shower door riding in a molded track in the tub, and a cieling mounted track. The problem is the overhead locker on the curb side would fill will water. I need a U shaped shower track suspended from the plastic end cap. Maybe the VTS aluminum track will work.

Your Trade Wind bath is an award winner.

David
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Link to my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
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Old 12-02-2019, 03:31 PM   #395
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Atomic's 1968 Tradewind Twin Renovation

I posted a separate thread over in the electrical section of the forum. To connect the two (and for those subscribed to this thread) I wanted to provide the link here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...nd-202496.html

I believe I have a fairly complete plan to wrap up the electrical system in the trailer. However, I would advise anyone interested in a similar approach to seek professional review/expertise and consider this "for entertainment purposes only". This is a complex and expensive part of a renovation so I'd really hate to lead you astray. If anyone has additional feedback on the proposed wiring diagram please let me know.

For now, I've attached a JPG (and higher resolution PDF) of what I'm proposing. If you are curious, the diagram was made using a web app available at www.lucidchart.com. Here is the work in progress.

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File Type: pdf 1968 Tradewind Electrical.pdf (184.6 KB, 2 views)
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Old 12-08-2019, 10:54 PM   #396
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Atomic's 1968 Tradewind Twin Renovation

Spent a bit of time exploring various options for roof mounted solar panels. The ‘68 and earlier trailers are ~7.5’ wide so roof space is a foot narrower than the modern trailers. AM Solar sells some narrow panels that fit on sections of the roof that other panels would not.

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What I learned from my cardboard mock up is that I can potentially squeeze 640W of solar on the roof using the following panels

- One 170W panel fits in front of the AC but it’s tight (might change this one to renogy’s 160W panel which is 6” shorter to prevent shading from the AC)
- Two 100W panels on each side of the rear vent
- And up to three 90W panels (two above the entry door and one on the street side beside the AC)

I’ll likely forgo this last 90W panel (since it would need to be over a waste tank vent) which drops the wattage to 540.

Also, taking an idea from TouringDan’s playbook, I plan to install two 160W panels on my truck cap that feeds into my trailer via an ?AWG (TBD) extension cord (so it can be parked in the sun and the trailer can be in the shade). The 4AWG wire from the trailer roof exits the front street side interior wall and connects to a red/positive and black/negative junction blocks (pictured below). 4AWG cable routes to the opposite side to the solar charge controller.

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There are two available junction terminals on these blocks for the truck cap solar to connect to. In total this could provide up to 860W or if the trailer is shaded, at least 320W from the truck.

Honestly, I’m quite surprised this many watts can be installed on the roof. In retrospect, I should have done this cardboard mock up prior to purchasing my 150V/35A solar charge controller. My previous, and evidently hasty, estimates led me to believe I could only get 450W on the roof. Guess I missed these specific panels with more ideal dimensions. Not all is lost, the above charge controller will work out perfect for the truck solar panels and a single battery in the truck bed when I’m on backcounty trips without the trailer. I might start with 450W on the trailer so this controller can be used in the airstream until I’m ready for the truck solar project some point down the road.

Anyways, I’m rambling here but hopefully this will help others facing similar decisions. And don’t make the mistake of buying your charge controller until after you know how many volts and amps your solar array will produce.
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Old 12-08-2019, 11:09 PM   #397
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just a thought, will your truck fit in the garage with the solar on top? When I had my Ram 1500, I only had 3 inch clearance with 9x7 doors. My roof rack was too tall.
Your reno looks great.
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Old Yesterday, 07:48 AM   #398
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Atomic's 1968 Tradewind Twin Renovation

Regarding truck height, that’s a good question. I drive a F250. At the stock height, it’s already too tall and long to fit in my standard size residential garage. In the next few years I hope to own a shop building that will shelter both the airstream and this truck.

The next step in sizing my solar system involves answering two questions:

1) Are the voltage rating of the 90/100/160W panels sufficiently close to operate efficiently. I am concerned they are not and I may not be able to use the 160W panel on trailer. If so, I’d also need to use three to four 100W panels on the truck. For example, are the the follow voltage specifications different enough to be of concern?

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2) Given I plan to use the trailer in cold weather, how much additional voltage will the panels produce as they are in conditions colder than their Standard Testing Conditions (25C/77F)? This will require some calculations (see: https://www.explorist.life/solar-cha...er-calculator/). More to follow...
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