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Old 05-16-2015, 06:41 PM   #15
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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Welcome to Air Forums atomic! You do have a nice Trade Wind. I see all that wonderful spray in foam Airstream tried in 68. It is a bugger to remove. It may be some of the cause of your frame rust.

My 66 Trade Wind has the front gaucho, twin bed layout. It is completely different inside as compared to yours. I've been working on mine for almost 2 years off and on. I had floor rot under the toilet, so I replace that section of subfloor and rebuilt the bathroom. My frame was pretty good, no repairs needed. I installed new axles, and new waste water tanks. I also replumbed the trailer including drains, fresh water, and propane system.

It's a fun hobby. I hope to have the maiden voyage this summer. We shall see. I will enjoy following your rehab along this summer. Keep us up posted.

I've had family in Kansas City since the early 70s. Nice city. We enjoy our visits there.

David
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Old 07-22-2015, 04:34 PM   #16
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1968 24' Tradewind
1968 26' Overlander
Kansas City , Kansas
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David, Did you get your trailer out this summer? If so, I hope it went well.


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I hope to have the maiden voyage this summer. We shall see. I will enjoy following your rehab along this summer. Keep us up posted.
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Old 07-22-2015, 06:19 PM   #17
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Hi atomic13, No trips yet. The plan is leaving for Denver area about August 7. I still have plenty to do before then. Just today I sand blasted the old Reese weight distribution hitch. I'll prime and paint it tomorrow. We will tow with a Jeep Grand Cherokee with a V8. If we get things level, we should be okay. I hope for 9 mpg across Nebraska. And I hope for no strong winds.

All the new appliances are installed and working. The fridge was a budget buster. Maybe I should have stayed with an ice chest! I have a small leak from one of the old propane tank valves. I think it is time for new tanks. But the other tank is holding, and I have no propane leaks in the new system.

I'll let you know how many parts fly off, or how many problems develop during its maiden voyage.

David
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Old 08-23-2015, 06:34 AM   #18
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1960 24' Tradewind
Tipp City , Ohio
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Tradewind frame rebuild

We recently (like yesterday) picked up our "new" 1960 Tradewind 24 Twin. Our trailers have a lot in common. Good she'll, your interior is a lot better, but I also see a frame off in the future due to rotted frame. I'll know more when I get trailer in the barn and start taking off belly pan. I like your questions about C channel size etc. I hope to stay in touch with you to learn from your progress.
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Old 08-24-2015, 04:47 PM   #19
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1960 24' Tradewind
Folsom , California
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We recently (like yesterday) picked up our "new" 1960 Tradewind 24 Twin. Our trailers have a lot in common. Good she'll, your interior is a lot better, but I also see a frame off in the future due to rotted frame. I'll know more when I get trailer in the barn and start taking off belly pan. I like your questions about C channel size etc. I hope to stay in touch with you to learn from your progress.
Cool. We'd love to see photos. And be sure to post in this "registry of tradewinds" thread:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f116...try-27581.html
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Old 08-25-2015, 07:23 AM   #20
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1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
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Rocker - My Tacoma has the tow package (6500#/650#) with a stouter suspension and tranny cooler and does fine regarding power on flat to hilly terrain. I typically get 17 MPG at 75MPH without the trailer and 9 MPG towing. We spend a fair amount of time in the mountain west and expect the truck to not fair nearly as well pulling the 4000#/450# trailer. When the restoration is complete I'll likely upgrade to a half-ton 4 door truck for more towing power and room inside for passengers.
Welcome to Air Forums.

Looks like you found a wonderful unique Tradewind, one of the best Airstream designs ever. Too bad about the frame damage, but when you get it replaced along with the other upgrades you will really have a like new vintage Airstream.

I love my Tundra with the 5.7L motor, except that it is huge. We just returned from a 2,500 mile trip to the UP of Michigan. Towing mileage was 13.5 with a kayak on top. Very relaxed towing. I only use tow/haul in the mountains (when I remember).

Dan
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Old 09-02-2015, 07:30 PM   #21
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1967 22' Safari
Oklahoma City , Oklahoma
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I just picked up our 67 tradewind this morning. The exterior looks pretty good, but we plan on gutting the interior this weekend and modernizing it over the next few months. We will have to do the "shell off" restoration, due to rusting in the bathroom.
Are there any videos that explain/show detail of the process?
We will attempt to remove the whole interior so that appliances and woodwork can be sold and used elsewhere.
Any other info would be greatly appreciated!

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Old 09-03-2015, 12:31 PM   #22
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1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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Hi OKC, welcome to Air Forums. Congratulations on your mid sixties Trade Wind acquisition. They are a nice size for comfortable traveling in my view. I know they are 24 footers, but in 69 they grew a foot. Even today almost 50 years later, the 25 footers are probably the most popular size. Maybe the most bang for the buck.

Atomic13 is working on his Trade Wind, and streamer24 has a 67 he is starting on. So you are going to start down the "slippery slope" too. It's fun, and it's time consuming. I've been working on mine for nearly two years. I also had the infamous rotted rear bath floor. The frame was okay. It took its maiden voyage about 4 weeks ago. I'm happy everything worked as planned. Water, electrical, propane, axles, etc. But I still have several projects to do on it. I posted a picture of it in an earlier post to this thread.

Don't be surprised if it takes much longer than you are planning, even working 50 hours a week on it. They come apart much much easier than they go together.

OKC, check out the Airstream Knowledge Base toward the bottom of the Forums page. See all the trailer models, and pick Tradewind, then pick your year range. There are likely "full monty" threads where folks did a ground up renovation of their trailer. The Safari is 2 feet shorter (single axle) and the Overlander is 2 feet longer with dual axles. The only real difference is the length and the interior layout. The basic construction, windows, and systems are the same. My owners manual is generic for all models for 1966. So you can learn about removing axles, removing the interior, removing the shell (aluminum body), and repairing the frame. Start reading, that's one way to learn. Ask questions here on Air Forums is another. Actually doing it is the best.

David
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Old 12-27-2015, 09:30 PM   #23
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1968 24' Tradewind
1968 26' Overlander
Kansas City , Kansas
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Gantries complete... preparing for lift off

Finally found some time to make progress on the shell off portion of the restoration. Since I last posted I removed all the wiring, vents, fans, and the AC.



In preparation for the shell separation we braced the internal frame with four 2x6's screwed to the ribs. My dad and I welded two "heavy duty" gantries. It's been fun to learn how to use a plasma cutter and MIG welder. We had four generations (my grandpa, dad, myself and my son) in the shop teaching and learning these skills.



The gantries are obviously overkill for my Airstream project. However, they'll see use when flipping the new frame we are welding for the Tradewind and also for my dad to repair his semi trucks (moving motors in and out, flipping flatbed trailers for repair, etc)

For my frame, we decided to use 11 gauge 2" x 6" rectangular tubing for most of the frame (main rales, A frame, out riggers, etc). I'll likely use this tubing for few cross pieces between the frame rales (to support the front and rear plywood and just fore and aft of the axles). We have other smaller options to support the plywood seams but haven't decided which to use (light 3" angle, 11 gauge 2" or 3" tubing???). All of these decisions will increase the weight of the frame but I'm not all that concerned about it. I'll feel more comfortable putting a bike rack or cooler on the back via a receiver hitch. We also plan to extend the A frame depth from 3' to 4' to make room for two 30# propane bottles plus a generator or two.

Next up is to order holding tanks so we have them before starting the frame welding... I'm thinking of keeping my freshwater tank at 30 gallons and targeting a grey tank(s) in the 40-50 gallon range and the black tank around 20-25 gallons. Sound good? Typically will have 2 adults and 2 kids in the trailer.

Any suggestions for type/brand of coupler and jack? I'm seriously considering ditching the electric jack I have now and use a manual crank.
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:35 PM   #24
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1968 24' Tradewind
1968 26' Overlander
Kansas City , Kansas
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Did some research on waste tank options today and found some contenders. I'm targeting a grey water capacity of ~50 gallons and a black water capacity of somewhere around 15 to 30 gallons. Based on the dimensions of my Dexter axles, I'll have 52.25 inches between my two 2x6 frame rails. Since I'm welding my own frame, I have some leeway regarding cross beam locations (so long as the floor junctions are supported. As a result, I'm leaning toward the tanks below from Inca Plastics.

The three tanks (two grey, one black) will be plumbed together using two self actuating Valterra valves. I plan to plumb these tanks together and have a single bayonet exit the belly pan about 5 feet behind the rear axle just inside the street side frame rail. The Valterra valve cables and pulls will pass through the frame rails near the street side bumper (outside the belly pan).

One question came up regarding the above plan. With only 3/4" of remaining space between frame rails my subfloor heating duct will no longer be able to extend to the rear of the trailer. What have others done with their heating duct when adding gray tanks. Should I re-route them outside of the main frame rails (i.e. through the outriggers)?

Grey tanks (two just aft of the axles plumbed in series, 26 gallons each, 52 gallons total):



Black tank option 1 (18 gallons):



Black tank option 2 (36 gallons):
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:50 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomic_13 View Post
[img]https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5659/23933851701_a12e354852_z.jpg[/img

Any suggestions for type/brand of coupler and jack? I'm seriously considering ditching the electric jack I have now and use a manual crank.
My jack died and I felt kind of helpless not being able to disconnect the Airstream from the tv. I decided to install a manual jack so I would not have that problem again. I figured with the light tongue weight, I would be strong enough to operate it. If I wasn't maybe I shouldn't be camping. So far, so good. I have been thinking about a mod so I could operate it with my portable drill.

Dan
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Old 12-29-2015, 09:40 AM   #26
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1968 30' Sovereign
Rockford , Michigan
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For my '68 Sovereign, I was able to fit 3 of the larger tanks from Vintage Trailer Supply between my frame and crossmembers. The 2 grey tanks are connected under the belly pan, and both are vented on top. I am not able to post pictures from this computer, but if you are interested, I can do so later.
I'm enjoying following your progress. My shell is back on my repaired frame and new floor, and I am currently working on my electrical systems.
Best,
Mark
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Old 12-29-2015, 01:19 PM   #27
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Hello atomic 13. I was in KC the last of October visiting family. My family moved there in 71 and we have been visiting ever since. It seems like home to me.

You probably figured out your trailer ride height considering your inch deeper frame rails and your new Dexter axles (maybe with 32" starting angles, many Dexters are 32 degrees.) Seems like everything on an Airstream is related to something else. There are lots of constraints. Just a watch out so your trailer isn't way up in the air like some jacked up pick ups. I might add that the outriggers and side belly wraps are built around a 5" frame. Going to 6" will affect this wrap also.

Since you are fabricating a heavy duty frame, you have many options for your waste water tanks. I had to select ones that would fit in the frame "bays". You are wise to select your tanks now so you can build your new frame around them. I sourced my tanks from Inca Plastics and was happy with the tanks and their service.

Inca introduced me to rubber "grommet" connections for the drain and vent lines which made plumbing the drain lines easier. I did not have to specify the exact locations so Inca could "spin weld" connection fittings to my tanks. They even have one for the 3 1/2" toilet connection. I recommend you ask Inca about them. All I had to do was cut holes in the subfloor with a hole saw where my drain lines penetrated it, trial fit up the tanks, mark the holes in the floor on to the tanks with a sharpie, drop the tanks, and then hole saw the locations into the plastic tanks. We used similar grommets in the factory I worked in for plastic fuel and hydraulic tanks. When you install the pipe, they expand tight against the plastic. They work good.

I elected to install tanks that empty below the frame rails on my 66 Trade Wind for simplicity in the drain manifold and valve location. Most modern campers do this, including my 86 Airstream. I had a tank cover made that bolts to the frame rails and cross members. This tank cover is insulated and I ran a flex duct to the cavity to keep the tanks and valves from freezing. It all seems to work.

As you know, Airstream heated these old mid sixties trailers with a furnace that dumped heat into the galley and then underfloor plenum with ducts to the front gaucho area and the rear bath for cold air return. I elected to reverse this plan with heat ducts under the floor and the cold air return above the floor. This made it easier to heat the waste water tank cavity.

David
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Old 12-30-2015, 10:41 AM   #28
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@Dan - good points regarding the jack. A manual jack would simplify things, especially during the renovation phase (prior to the electrical being completed)

@Mark - If you have easy access to a picture of your holding tank layout, I'd like to see it.

@David - KC is a great city. If you are ever pulling your trailer through let me know. I'd love to see it in person. My guess is I still have a few years of work on mine before I get it out to Colorado. We plan to boondock a lot in your beautiful state. My wife isn't as keen as I am about climbing mountains, fly fishing, and sleeping in the dirt. Our AS will provide her a nice place to hang out and relax while we are out on our "suffer-fests"

As for the trailer height, I'm fortunate that the starting angle of my axles are 22.5 degrees (down) and not higher. As a result of the 6" frame rail, the trailer will sit 1 inch higher than stock but I'm of the opinion that the benefits (stronger frame for a bike rack, larger holding tanks, etc) outweighed the cons.

I've been thinking about how to address the extra inch of frame height and the banana wraps. With our plasma cutter, it's a snap to taper the 2x6 rectangular tubing we plan to use to create our outriggers. What I haven't decided is if I should shape them such that the banana wraps still fit the outside curve of the outrigger but then slopes to 6 inches at the main frame rail (essentially the bottom of the outrigger would slope from 5 to 6 inches as you move toward the main frame rail). Alternatively, I could simply make the outriggers using factory 5" dimensions and 1" of frame rail would be exposed under the length of the trailer. Not sure which to do, yet.

Thanks for letting me know about the grommets from INCA plastics. Those are slick. I've used bulkhead fittings before but have never seen a push in grommet connection like that. Do you think they seal well enough to use them on the sides of tanks (e.g. connecting two grey tanks in series)?

Lastly, I hadn't considered using flexible heating ducts. That would be very versatile. Where did you pick that up? I know the big box home stores sell aluminum and foil duct but yours looks more durable that that.
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