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Old 11-28-2017, 09:48 PM   #71
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1969 25' Tradewind
Somewhere , Minnesota
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PIC of WEDI in the store

Forgot to post this picture of the WEDI products.

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Old 11-29-2017, 06:23 PM   #72
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There is nothing better than heated garage space for your trailer during the long Minnesota winter. I used to rent some space there. Now I have my own space. I count my blessings.

Thanks for the update. Sealing up these old trailers is a tedious task. Did you pressurized your trailer and use a soap solution? I did this on the old Trade Wind with good results. See photo taken in the Minnesota rented garage space.

Your fridge door looks great. That's not easy to make. And the new stack window looks great too. Every little accomplishment adds up to a super trailer when done.

Your trailer now has a super frame, getting a leak free body, and getting ready for your girl friend's interior.

David
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Old 11-30-2017, 02:19 PM   #73
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1966 24' Tradewind
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Shower?

You're moving so fast you might be past this already. But I went with a custom made shower pan with formica for the walls. Roomy and clean. Here's a pic before the walls are in. Has worked great so far.
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Old 11-30-2017, 02:20 PM   #74
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Phone pics, ugh!

Darn the sideways pictures!
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Old 11-30-2017, 07:10 PM   #75
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1969 25' Tradewind
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I have the same sideways picture issues sometimes too! Thatís a good idea though, maybe I use the Wedi for the shower pan then Formica for the walls
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Old 12-01-2017, 06:05 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoToasterGo View Post
Forgot to post this picture of the WEDI products.



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Toaster

Very nice work you are doing- first class.

I am glad you found a new material to build your shower enclosure out of. Sounds like it should work well. Time will tell though.

Dan
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Old 12-01-2017, 06:14 PM   #77
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You won't like it, but I used white FRP for my shower walls. FRP was designed for showers. And it flexed well around the spherical walls of the rear bath.

David
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:42 AM   #78
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David, the FRP sounds like a good choice. Itís always tricky when trying to balance, aesthetics, light weight, curves, flexibility, etc. Therefore Iím still open to more suggestions. I bought the WEDI board specially for the shower pan and was planning to use it for the walls as well. But if I can find something better for the walls Iím all for it. Or potentially a hybrid of two systems.
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Old 12-04-2017, 05:46 PM   #79
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FRP was easy for an old guy to work with. It is a common material in shower walls in ready made shower stalls. I got three sheets at the local big box store at about $50 a sheet. But new, modern materials like WEDI and Coosa board are new to me. So I'm learning here.

David
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Old 03-26-2018, 09:59 PM   #80
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1969 25' Tradewind
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AC Reinforcement/Furnace/Shower Plumbing

A lot has happened during the winter but my progress has not been moving nearly as quick as it was during the summer months.

I spent what felt like weeks sealing up the exterior which I am sure many of you have been through. Loose rivets, un-bucked rivets from the factory, random holes that occurred during the years and many other small issues. I also replaced a couple of the support pieces inside, not the ribs but the horizontal support pieces.

Well here are some pics. First up, I got some new support pieces fabricated to hold up the air conditioning. They went in pretty easy and definitely helped make that section more rigid. My only regret is I follow the format of the ribs on the interior which where shaped like a Z but I should have made them more like C channels. Using C channels would have allowed me to mount the reinforcements closer to the edge of the 14" square and also have the AC structure clamp down on more of the reinforcement.

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Next up I mounted the furnace and hot water heater to seal up those holes to the outside. I know I took some pictures of the hot water heater but for some reason I can't find them right now. The one note I will make about the hot water heater is I angled it to be sloped slightly towards the exterior in order to match the curve of the exterior skin. Here's the interior and exterior shots of the furnace.

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I also installed a small piece of what will become the shower drain in the rear of the trailer as I needed it's location to finish the grey water plumbing and seal up the last rear section of belly pan.

The first picture is the drain and the second is a super tricky section of plumbing that connects the grey tank's, shower drain + inline P trap, and sink drain then out to the bumper area for dumping.

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After this I was able to finally get all the belly pan, belly wrap, belt line and so on all riveted up and complete.
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Old 03-26-2018, 10:20 PM   #81
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Hmm.. so strange that air forums decides to rotate only some of my images.

Anyway, part of sealing up the exterior was closing up a couple larger holes, one which was from and old antenna near the front of the trailer, I'm not sure where the other came from. Anyway we decided to cover them up with some cool Minnesota and Manitoba shaped patches.

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Here's a couple more interior shots as the skin starts getting sealed up. You can see the air conditioning is in place.

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In one of those pictures you can see the reflectix I installed. I wish now that I would have used prodex but too late now. The reflectix did go in really easy and hopefully it was worth it.

Here's my first batch of wires I got in to run my DC. I tried to color code all circuits to make my life easier later if I need to do any repairs, or make any changes. I was short on a couple lengths but this picture covered about 85%of the required DC wiring.

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And here is all the electrical installed AC and DC. I used 10/2 for my 30A shore power to the breaker panel, 12/2 for the air conditioning and 14/2 for everythign else. The DC wire were mostly 14 AWG, some 12 and 10 AWG for higher current draw items and 8 AWG for the DC fridge power. The Fridge should rarely run off DC but it does draw a lot of current so the voltage drop across too small of a wire could lead to problems. I also used 18 AWG for a few different signal cables(thermostat to AC signal, Thermostat to furnace etc..). I probably could have used it for some of the lighter current draw circuits as well but 14AWG was just easier to come by. Also, I ordered all my wire from tinnedmarinewire, they had a great selection at the right price.
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MAJOR LAPSE IN PLANNING!!
I had one major lapse in planning. When I started running the electrical the entire belly pan was insualted and riveted along with the banana wraps. Unfortunately I forgot to run the power lines for my electric jack and breakaway cable. Wanting these wires to be nicely hidden inside the A frame of the hitch I ended up having to pull my front belly pan down to run two wires.....

Looks great now though! (I should probably get a pic of this)

This weekend I finished up the insulation on the interior using roxul. I did have to cut all of the standard sized insulation pieces in half as their thickness is for standard 2x4 framed rooms, but with the help of some Super77 3M adhesive everything stayed in place.

Next up interior skins!!!
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Old 03-26-2018, 10:20 PM   #82
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Pic of the insulation

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Old 03-27-2018, 06:22 AM   #83
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GTG

Outstanding work!

Sideways photos can be frustrating. The long photo dimension always seems to be horizon.

Dan
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Old 03-27-2018, 08:33 AM   #84
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Nice progress!
I see you borrowed a couple ideas from us related to wiring colors and shaped patches.

Kay
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