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Old 06-21-2017, 10:18 PM   #29
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GTG

I am also thinking about new insulation between the floor and belly pan. I think I am going to put 3/4" hard foam sheeting (r=3.8) next to the belly pan and either fiberglass batts or Roxul ComfortBatts next to the floor. It will be hard to change from fiberglass as my 51 year old insulation was completely dry except for under the black/gray tank due to a leaking fitting. The Roxul is firmer than fiberglass and is rot resistant, but the fiberglass may be rot resistant also. The disadvantage is that it is about 3 times heavier. I figure 100 sq ft of Roxul at 60 lbs and for fiberglass only 20 lbs. I just learned about Roxul in my last visit to Lowes. Anybody had any experience or opinions about Roxul?

Dan
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Old 06-22-2017, 08:54 AM   #30
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1969 25' Tradewind
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Touring Dan - I have also been thinking about using Roxul. Although that's only because my Dad won't stop mentioning how awesome it is.
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Old 06-22-2017, 03:55 PM   #31
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I've used the rigid foam insulation with good success. I like the fact that it doesn't hold water. It is harder to install as there are a lot of cavities in our Airstream frames.

David
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Old 06-22-2017, 04:29 PM   #32
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1972 31' Sovereign
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We painted the interior of our trailer prior to starting to build out the interior: Bonz primer and 2 coats of latex exterior paint. It's held up well so far with occasional touch ups. We left the wallpaper in place as it was/is in good shape and painted over it. Used aluminum "patches" riveted to the walls to cover holes, or installed something else there. It's amazing what you can cover up with cabinetry!
There are some good software programs out there for designing your interior, but nothing beats cardboard mockups and blue painters tape in my book. Then, you can actually SEE how it's going to work and adjust placement and size of things in your trailer. And it's a work in progress as you build to adjust and add things. We still are, 5 years after we got our trailer back on the road.
Our trailer build is "Little Girl Refurb" in the '70s section of the forums. There are many others that have been helpful to us also.
If you need help, PM us - we are in Twin Cities area.

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Old 06-26-2017, 03:34 PM   #33
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Minno - thanks for the advice! Especially, using cardboard mock ups that will come in handy.
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Old 06-26-2017, 09:23 PM   #34
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Progress is inching forward.

Hooked the trailer frame up to the truck to bring her to the welders.

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The plan was to re weld all but 2 outriggers on the curb side and rebuild the step area. Also weld in some new pieces for the rear area where all the rot occurred around the black tank. Currently I'm rebuilding it in a very similar manner to the original but I do have plans to prevent water getting again.

I'm also going to have some straps made up for the grey tanks.

Finally I was going to move one outrigger over 1/2" so that the new ABS wheel wells will line up better.

Here's my welder doing what he does best on one of the outriggers.

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And here's the rear area where the black tank will sit. I used larger angle iron so the tank box had more to grip onto. PS I'll show a pic of the new box later when it's done being fab'd.
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I also removed the smashed out stack window. The process is really pretty simple.

1. Drill out rivers (basically step 1 for everything)
2. Cut and peel the window frame away from the sealer.
3. Pull the glass filled glazing out and promptly throw out.
4. Split the window.
5. Get a new piece of glass made and reverse steps 4 to 1.

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Old 06-26-2017, 09:36 PM   #35
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1973 25' Tradewind
1968 30' Sovereign
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Great progress! It may not be the right time to ask this, but have you considered a composting toilet? I am seriously considering one.

I just finished watching this video as I am learning about these:

Here's a shorter video by the same couple:

https://youtu.be/_E2xOoNov9s
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Old 06-26-2017, 09:54 PM   #36
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Great progress! It may not be the right time to ask this, but have you considered a composting toilet? I am seriously considering one.

If it were up to me I would be getting one. Unfortunately, I will not be winning that argument with my other half any time soon.
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Old 06-28-2017, 07:18 PM   #37
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I'm with your other half, or may I add better half. I always considered a composting toilet a litter box for humans. Scratch, scratch, scratch.

Looks like you're going to have a good frame foundation for your rebuild.

David
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Old 07-14-2017, 03:46 PM   #38
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I haven't given an update in a couple of weeks mostly because I've just been doing a lot of little things as well as researching, planning and purchasing.

With that being said here is what has been happening. We have taken all of the hinged windows off of the shell and then took the frames completely apart. This is because both the weather stripping gasket and the inner glazing strip were well worn and needed to be replaced. We also had a little bit of what looked like algae growing on our windows... gross! At the same time I also took the latches and all other window hardware out to give them a good clean or replace parts as necessary.

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Here's a pic of me cleaning up some of the striker plates and lift arms. You can see the huge difference between old and new. I'll also be having these dipped in zinc before putting them back on. Here's a bunch of the latch parts too, I used a lot of PB blaster to get some of these fasteners loose.
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Unfortunately, I don't have any pics on my phone of the windows coming apart but my girlfriend does so if anyone is interested just remind me and I'll post them. Right now glass out of all of the windows.

After getting all my welding work done I dropped off the frame at a sandblaster where it will be sandblasted, epoxied and painted. Hoping to have it back early next week so I can start putting this thing back together. Here's the sad axle-less frame sitting at the sandblaster. The axles were surprisingly easy to take off, but I also spent a couple weeks spraying them down with PB blaster daily. Also if you look closely you can see the rebuilt step. It looks and functions just like the original, just a lot shinier now.
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I also picked up some ACX plywood and cut it out using the old floor pieces as templates. I'll be sealing the outside 12 inches and edges with CPES as soon as I can dry fit the pieces on the frame.
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I'm getting anxious to start working on the frame and underbelly once the frame comes back. Stay tuned.

As always questions, comments or suggestion are always appreciated! I always like hearing from the forum members.
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Old 07-14-2017, 06:17 PM   #39
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Thanks for the update. Keep the project going. My son has a 69 Globetrotter. I wonder if 69 was the first year of the funny top hing and the awkward opening levers. I find the window hard to open to the first catch. They move easier as you swing them more open.

And I noticed the infamous square bottom corner wing windows on the front of your shell. 69 is the only year Airstream did this. The 70s trailers had radii at the top and at the bottom of the front wing windows. These babies are hard to find glass for. One of ours shattered by itself sitting in the driveway. Rats. The son made a Lexan "temp" for it until we decide what to do. I'm a bunch tempted to replace it with a 70s style wing window as it would be cheaper, but alter the look of the 69 trailer, and require a "patch" to fill the area between the square corner and the round radius. His trailer is no beauty queen for sure, so what does another patch matter?

Interesting how your frame is rusty from the bumper in, but the rest of it looks nice and black. It clearly shows the weather seal design problem. Even mid 2000s trailers had the infamous rear bumper seal leak problem. Maybe the best fix is to keep your trailer out of the rain.

David
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:00 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoToasterGo View Post
Touring Dan - I have also been thinking about using Roxul. Although that's only because my Dad won't stop mentioning how awesome it is.


I ended up using R15 Roxul along with 1" of Dow Corning Foamular Click image for larger version

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ID:	289703(R5) for a total of R20. I have installed 1" aluminum angle next to the floor joists to hold up the cellular insulation and to rivet the belly pan to. It should be much easier than blindly locating the 1/2" floor joists.
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:15 PM   #41
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I ended up using R15 Roxul along with 1" of Dow Corning Foamular Attachment 289703(R5) for a total of R20. I have installed 1" aluminum angle next to the floor joists to hold up the cellular insulation and to rivet the belly pan to. It should be much easier than blindly locating the 1/2" floor joists.


Dan, that looks great.

I'm actually leaning towards using this stuff now... it has the best R value per inch I could find. I might grab a bit of Roxul too though to stick in the spots that I can't fill with the rigid stuff.
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By the way I was thinking about the LP lines the other day. How do you plan to run those into your shell? Would you just drill a hole through the belly pan, the rigid foam, and your floor then hope you get those all lined up? Or maybe use a long auger bit?
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Old 07-17-2017, 06:41 PM   #42
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Hi toaster: Your new propane lines should be run below the belly pan with a copper tube vertical through the belly pan, through the insulation, and then through the subfloor as close to the appliance that is practical. You don't want a propane leak between the belly pan and subfloor.

I ran my propane lines from the subfloor down. I used a long 1/4" diameter drill to mark the location both top and bottom, and then I used a holesaw on the subfloor and then the belly pan from underneath. You gotta miss the frame structural members of course. You will have a furnace, a water heater, a fridge, a stove and oven (maybe), and maybe a catalytic heater if you like.

David
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