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Old 06-15-2017, 05:56 PM   #15
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gotoastergo: I've done three belly pans and I'm willing to do a fourth. I did mine laying on my back under the trailer. I vowed never again, but I'm over that now.

Since you have the shell off and the gantries made, you can rig a "flip the frame" rotisserie and install tanks and a belly pan, and then axles much easier than I did. Work on the belly pan "belly pan up" so to speak.

Here is a link to Airparts for the 5052 aluminum 48" wide coil .025 thick. I purchased about 30 feet of it for my Trade Wind if memory serves me. I went side to side instead of front to back for various reasons, mainly because the body wasn't off.

http://www.airpartsinc.com/1800_5052..._other_RVs.htm

As you work on your 69 Trade Wind, be sure to get a very detailed design of what your "mobile office / home" will be like. Designing in a small space is a challenge. Airstream is very good at it. So are our Japanese friends.

David
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Old 06-15-2017, 06:21 PM   #16
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Keep the pics coming as you progress. Brings back lots of memories from when I did mine (shell on). Got to love Trade Winds!!!!
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Old 06-15-2017, 06:34 PM   #17
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By the way, I want to mention the folks at Airparts treated me very well with the aluminum orders I wanted. I recommend them as a good source for Airstream aluminum.

And I have an error in my thread above. I have over $12000 in parts doing my "half monte" (which is about half the work you are doing). Not $1200.
The vintage Airstream hobby gets expensive. I spent three years spending that dough.

You are right, a good body, or shell, is the most important consideration in a vintage Airstream. The rest of it is standard stuff. Goransons' story about "gone with the wind" is amazing. He had a good body, it got all beat up in the storm, so he "re-skinned" a whole bunch of the exterior of that trailer. I figure that's a "double full monte" renovation.

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Old 06-15-2017, 08:55 PM   #18
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GTG,

Nice work; thanks for sharing your progress.

Thought I'd add a few "FWIW's":

-For all you entomologically curious types, that little critter pictured is a shield bug, commonly called a stink bug for its particular mode of defense. They like to overwinter indoors...

-As you probably already know, those "joists" you referred to are cleats that are glued and fastened to the plywood joints to make the subfloor solid. The frame crossmembers are lower in those spots to accept the thickness of the cleats. I only mention it since they are a point of some discussion on other redo threads.

-You mentioned the degree of rot in the rear bath area. This is due to the design of the bumper plate that runs under the subfloor across the back (you can see it still attached with the rear hold-down plate on top of it in one of your frame pics). This causes water to funnel into the plywood subfloor. You will want to rework this design as you get to that part of your rebuild. Several forum members have posted their methods, a few of which can be seen here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f4/s...-a-119687.html

-I also used 0.025 for my belly pan and had trouble with wavy, gapped edges and some rivet pull-out. I thought 0.032 might be better, but I would like to know if others had this problem. David's cross-wise pattern might minimize the wavy edge issue.

Looking forward to seeing your progress; just remember to have fun...

Alan
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Old 06-15-2017, 11:07 PM   #19
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GTG

I used the same 0.025 belly pan material that David used and plan to install it side to side as he did also. I get to install it on my back- not the easiest way to work but at least I will be protected from the hot sun since I am working outside.

The back 10" of my floor rotted out from the poorly designed bumper plate. I am getting ready to replace it now.

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Old 06-16-2017, 11:43 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
gotoastergo:
Since you have the shell off and the gantries made, you can rig a "flip the frame" rotisserie and install tanks and a belly pan, and then axles much easier than I did. Work on the belly pan "belly pan up" so to speak.

Here is a link to Airparts for the 5052 aluminum 48" wide coil .025 thick. I purchased about 30 feet of it for my Trade Wind if memory serves me. I went side to side instead of front to back for various reasons, mainly because the body wasn't off.

http://www.airpartsinc.com/1800_5052..._other_RVs.htm

As you work on your 69 Trade Wind, be sure to get a very detailed design of what your "mobile office / home" will be like. Designing in a small space is a challenge. Airstream is very good at it. So are our Japanese friends.

David
I was definitely planning on using the gantries and setting up a little rotisserie for my self. Thanks for the link to the Belly Pan Material. I just listened to Episode 266 of the VAP and Colin had mentioned switching to 0.032" for the belly pan material. Any thoughts on that?

I'm realizing very quickly how much planning I need to do on the home/office as many decisions in the frame will have consequences on the interior. Mostly in regards to plumbing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
By the way, I want to mention the folks at Airparts treated me very well with the aluminum orders I wanted. I recommend them as a good source for Airstream aluminum.

And I have an error in my thread above. I have over $12000 in parts doing my "half monte" (which is about half the work you are doing). Not $1200.
The vintage Airstream hobby gets expensive. I spent three years spending that dough.
David
I was wondering if that number was supposed to be 12000, 1200 didn't seem like nearly enough. At this point I'm budgeting about $20,000 for the rest of the project and hoping to finish by the end of the year. Personally I don't think the money is the issue but the timeline seems very tight.
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Old 06-16-2017, 11:49 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TennTex View Post
GTG,

Nice work; thanks for sharing your progress.

Thought I'd add a few "FWIW's":

-For all you entomologically curious types, that little critter pictured is a shield bug, commonly called a stink bug for its particular mode of defense. They like to overwinter indoors...

-As you probably already know, those "joists" you referred to are cleats that are glued and fastened to the plywood joints to make the subfloor solid. The frame crossmembers are lower in those spots to accept the thickness of the cleats. I only mention it since they are a point of some discussion on other redo threads.

-You mentioned the degree of rot in the rear bath area. This is due to the design of the bumper plate that runs under the subfloor across the back (you can see it still attached with the rear hold-down plate on top of it in one of your frame pics). This causes water to funnel into the plywood subfloor. You will want to rework this design as you get to that part of your rebuild. Several forum members have posted their methods, a few of which can be seen here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f4/s...-a-119687.html

-I also used 0.025 for my belly pan and had trouble with wavy, gapped edges and some rivet pull-out. I thought 0.032 might be better, but I would like to know if others had this problem. David's cross-wise pattern might minimize the wavy edge issue.

Looking forward to seeing your progress; just remember to have fun...

Alan
Thanks Alan! The "FWIW's" are exactly what I am looking for. I'd much prefer to not make the same mistakes others have made in the past. I'm a firm believer in doing it right the first time....or at least trying to.

-Ahh the STINK bug! Good to know!
- Cleats, eh? I have never heard that term before thanks for the education. I am planning on using those again. Along with 3/4" ACX plywood with at least the edges sealed with...something?
-My girlfriends dad is a mechanical engineer at a metal shop, I've been discussing much of the metal work with him and am going to dig into a few issues this weekend. One of which is the rear end rot problem, I had read about prior to purchasing and knew I had it when I bought it. He's also going to help me with some grey tank support, touching up the step, and making some roll your own compartment doors!
- I am strongly considering the 0.032", but I am also curious if anyone has run into issues there.
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Old 06-17-2017, 05:57 AM   #22
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Good Morning Toaster: TennTex mentions wavy install using the thinner .025 material. Yep, he is right, especially working on your back. I went side to side as I didn't have a way to hold big sheets of floppy aluminum in place. I rigged a six foot long 2x4, my jackstands, and some tapered wedges that I used to hold the aluminum sheet tight against a cross member. I hung the sheets from the centerline of the trailer, that is where my first rivet would go.

032 material is harder to work with. The belly pan adds no strength to the trailer like the exterior skins do. It's there as a "splash shield" to keep the insulation dry (ha ha), and to keep drain plumbing and tanks cleaner. I would consider the .032 if I wasn't working on my back.

David
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Old 06-17-2017, 06:12 AM   #23
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You have a very realistic appraisal of the cost of your Airstream renovation into the trailer you want. My Trade Wind was appraised at $18,500 for "agreed value" insurance coverage. Why? Because I kept my receipts and showed them to the appraiser. Selling such a renovated trailer is what the market will bear of course. The ads I see would lead me to believe I can get about that much for it, maybe more. If a professional shop did the work for you, they would want paid for their labor of course. $50,000 would not surprise.

I saw an absolutely beautiful 1975 Trade Wind that the Airstream factory "renovated" for fun one winter. It was expertly done as you can imagine. No wavy belly pans on this baby. Asking price was $65,000. I have no idea what it sold for.

David
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Old 06-18-2017, 12:17 PM   #24
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GoToasterGo

I need to throw a plug in here for www.airpartsinc.com. They are great to do business with. I ordered new belly pan material, twice now, and it is on my front porch in 3 days!
Another great reason to live in Kansas City is that I'm just a few miles away from Airparts. They are extremely helpful and friendly folks.
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Old 06-18-2017, 06:37 PM   #25
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Hi Slats: been a while. I have family in KC since 71. It seems like home to me. It is a very nice city. Airparts has been a great aluminum supplier for me too.

gotoastergo: Slats is being modest. He has done a complete renovation on a Trade Wind. And I'll bet more than willing to give you some possible solutions to any problem that might arise in your project. He has a project thread here on AirForums that I've followed since he started. You can find it by user name. Stay up late tonight and read through it.

David
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Old 06-18-2017, 07:55 PM   #26
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I don't know if this idea will work for your graytank, but it's worked out great for me.
I had two 12ga plates cut to fit the space between two crossmembers to stiffen the frame , and also to protect the graytank from any nails, screws, or other hardware that I might put into the floor when I re-installed the floor and cabinetry.

The first photo shows the plates welded to the frame just ahead of the axle. The second is with the tank installed.
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Old 06-20-2017, 08:44 PM   #27
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A little update as I haven't posted in a few days.

Belly Pan - At this point my plan is to go with the .032 material. It doesn't look like airparts carries that. Does anyone have a good supplier? If not, it's not a big deal I have a few local contacts that should be able to help me out.

Slats - I just started looking at your reno thread. Looks awesome, I'll be reading through the rest of that tonight.

Markdoane - That's a cool idea! I am going to weld a few straps on the bottom of the cross members to hold the tanks in place. Then add some additional foam to fully secure them. I like the idea of protecting the top, not sure I'll go through with it though. By the way, is that center beam original in your pic. I'm referring to the one that runs down the middle parallel to your two main frame rails in the front to back direction.

I've spent the past few days doing some planning and buying materials and parts. A short list off the top of my head is:

  • Water Heater
  • Fresh Tank
  • Black Tank
  • Furnace
  • Fantastic Fans
  • BAL stabilizers
  • Axles
  • gasket samples for doors and windows
  • LED exterior marker lights
  • exterior marker light covers to replace broken ones
  • abs wheel wells
  • ACX plywood for the subfloor
  • water pump

Up next for me is to get some welding done on the frame which is happening this Saturday(pics to follow), plan out my plumbing and order grey tanks, decide on a sealant for the subfloor(suggestions?), and what insulation(suggestions?) I am going to use between the sub floor and belly pan.

PS. It's great reading all the responses and discussion on here. I'm glad to have so many experienced members reading through my build.
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Old 06-20-2017, 09:51 PM   #28
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Hi GoToasterGo,

As mentioned previously you have a stink bug----or thousands of Brown Marmorated Stink Bugs, an invasive bug that has spread across the US from China, Japan, N/S Korea region. They are a true pest to agriculture, as they damage fruit and veggies and do not have a lasting control. They can have up to 6 generations in warm climates in a single year. BMSB's just love to cozy up in warm spaces in the Fall---like your house or trailer. They poop out golden brown spots that are water soluable and clean up pretty easily. (gross anyway) They produce a noxious odor as a defense mechanism and just a couple can stink up your vacuum or kitchen garbage pail.
Best human defense: put up a good wall: that is, seal your Airstream up tight. That includes every little opening you can find. Make fine mesh screens to fill in all gaps. Believe me, I speak from experience. See our thread "Check Out My Smoking Hot Deal" detail our resuscitation of a fire damaged trailer. In the latter pages my husband has pics of some of the screens he made to block the oddest spots you'd never expect bugs (or slightly bigger annoyances) to get into your Airstream.
Good luck with your Airstream adventure---yes, your journey has already begun!

Susan
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