Well, things didn't go as planned today.. my wife and I started to "excavate" our house today.. kids were away, so we had time to devote to fall cleaning. While glad I did this, I really missed my Tradewind (know known as "Fanny" around here).
I did get the tempered glass this week, and the frame was here (Fanny is kept about 1 hr from me), so I set to work putting it together.
Some observations -
1) Thanks Frank, it really went together easily, or more easily than I thought.
2) I peeled off each corner of the glazing first, then set the window down on the glazing, lifting it and peeling the wrapper off slowly. This would allow me a chance to re-orient the window if I was off on the aim of setting the glass down.. but I hit it right the first time, so it came out ok anyway.
3) I used 1/8" thick tempered glass. 3/32 is the "orginal" glass, but it doesn't come in tempered in this thickness. I worried that the gasket wouldn't work, but a dry run with the glazing peel on showed that it would work fine.
4) I THOUGHT I had a screen tool, but when the time came, I couldn't find it. So I improvised. Here's a new wrinkle... I put dishsoap on the seal's groove, it and pushed in with a blunt screwdriver just fine.. pretty easily infact! (for the record, it was lavendar Method soap... and it made the process smell nice too!)
5) I'll post pics later... can't find my camera cord to upload pics!
Next steps (mostly for my memory)
- Get new steel for frame repair. Order new pigtail and wiring while front floor is out. Por 15 the frame. Wash the belly pan out... then new front floor! Also order alclad for small patches where the old heater used to be..
Marc
A shout out to the wife for coming to my rescue and buying a new cable so we can download pics again. I fully expect to find the lost cable any day now!
These are pics of the window repair in the front... while not too exciting, there were some gems to be learned... see the above post for my observations.
The first pic is of my cleaned frame. The following pics show the mastic in place, with the covering peeled back in the corners. Then... the glass gasket being eased into the frame with a screwdriver (remember, soap makes it easier!). No pics of my thumbs doing the final "click" into the groove.
Piece of cake! Remember - stock glass is 3/32".. I used tempered (see above) 1/8th.
Marc
Try a window screen tool on the gasket. The wheel will work it right into the groove. I would worry about cutting the gasket with the screw driver tip.
Oh, you are a brave man. I wonder it Mona swore at you in German after you picked this one up. That's what Jim does to me. He laughs at me, says something in German that I can't understand but I know is an insult, and then he says "so when do you expect me to help you with this?"
All kidding aside, looks like a fun journey that you are embarking on. Hope to see Fanny at a rally someday.
Well, if I added up my time that I actually was at the trailer, I'm speeding along... it's just that it takes time to make time to work on it.
Spent 3 hours the other day... Por 15'd the front quarter... so I can order my new Pigtail, install that, and then put in the new front piece of plywood. Then I can work on making the trailer road friendly... (replace the front coupler, new axle, wheels). Then I can bring it home on the weekends and work more on it... instead of traveling 1 hr each way to it now....
I do have a couple of questions... does anyone know what the two doors next to the main door are for? Did one open these when you needed to use the fridge on gas? There isn't an inlet vent that I can find for the non-existant fridge. There is the exhaust one on the roof though.
Anyone else have this badge on their trailer? It's located next to the AS badge next to the main door. It seems like a national emblem just saying it meets the MHMA (or something like that) requirements.
Marc
The bottom door was most likely to service the fridge.
MHMA-
Quote:
Mobile Homes Manufacturers Association (MHMA) formed in August, 1936, as the Trailer Coach Manufacturers Association, and headquartered first in Detroit and then moved to Chicago in 1938, represented the industry in the Midwest and East. Seeds of this organization were first planted at the Tin Can Tourists convention at Grand Rapids, Mich. in 1935. MHMA held its first show in August 1939, at Manistee, Mich. Twenty-eight manufacturers showed 95 models. The MHMA developed a set of standards for mechanical and material components in 1958. The national headquarters was moved to Chantilly, Va. in 1972, and to Washington D.C. in 1974. MHMA’s offices became MHI national headquarters
I do have a couple of questions... does anyone know what the two doors next to the main door are for? Did one open these when you needed to use the fridge on gas? There isn't an inlet vent that I can find for the non-existant fridge. There is the exhaust one on the roof though.
Marc
Marc -
I've got similiar doors on my '64 (streetside on mine). The bottom one is for access to light the original fridge and or service access. The upper one actually opens into the fridge "chimney". I'm not sure it's original purpose as the fridge vents up the "chimney" and throught the roof. I've considered having a louvered replacement door made to allow more airflow. Meanwhile I installed a computer fan in that space to help the airflow and cool the coils. It's controlled by a switch so I only use it if it's really hot out.
Inlet vent was through an opening in the floor, covered with wire screen to keep out pests.
Almost ready for the first piece of wood! Took the morning today to go up and work on her. Man, I hate those little straight slot screws that hold on the "wood". In my case, the wood was so rotted that the screws just rusted in place on the shell c-channel. I spent a day last week trying to get most of screws off the curved side... today I found a better way.
Slide my cat paw under the screw, then hit the c-channel with my channel locks. The screw breaks free at this point... then I can grab it and pull it out of the channel. Easier than trying to make a slot to back the screw out. Duh....
I'm trying to figure out a good way to make the umbilical cord come out the front A - frame... Currently it passes through the frame, up the front out of the box frame, then up through the hitch plate (right infront of the jack, behind the ball receptical). I'm going to eventually replace the hitch plate with a 2 and 5/8" one... and the new ones don't have this hole. Would it be fine just to exit out the box frame? My concern is it puts it pretty close to the ball... but then the ball isn't going to leap out and get it either...
Frame has been por'd 15 and top coated... I think I'm going to button up the existing belly pan first prior to the wood being installed. I have styrofoam board insulation cut and ready...(I'll leave a space between the wood and foam to let any wood moisture dry...)
I did notice I have A LOT of leaks in the rain (seems like the fridge vent really lets in a LOT of water too...), I have to seal up the seams up top.. take that front badge off, and seal around the front window too.
Coming along!
Forgot to mention a big thanks to Greatpumpkin who posted good prices at Tom Raper RV parts. I found the umbilical cord, tear drop clearance lights, and some other nick nacks (they've got the lifters for our windows CHEAP!) with some of the best pricing out there. I ordered, and the items came the next day!! (Didn't even pay for that!)
Marc
Forgot to mention a big thanks to Greatpumpkin who posted good prices at Tom Raper RV parts. I found the umbilical cord, tear drop clearance lights, and some other nick nacks (they've got the lifters for our windows CHEAP!) with some of the best pricing out there. I ordered, and the items came the next day!! (Didn't even pay for that!)
Marc
Have you attempted removing the nylon friction pads yet?
Mine were very brittle and I broke most of them upon removal. Your choice, $3.95 each at Inland or VTS. I haven't bit on that yet... I'm stubborn and have some time this winter...I figure a small nylon block, cut and drilled just right will work, so I'm going to attempt to make some replacements.
I know, I know, it'll be much cheaper (timewise) to just buy the replacements, but I want to see if it can be done. (did I mention I'm stubborn?)
Love reading your thread Marc and following your progress...
Yes, GP, that thread is where I found that info... about those pads... yes, one spring went "sprong!", and it's lost forever.. the other one is on it's last legs. I still have to pull the other windows (waiting for a break in the weather).. so I haven't lost any others yet!!
I did read (I think on RJ's site) about using a nylon bolt and nut to make the pad.. much cheaper.. and not too hard. I'll see if I can find the link for you.
Off to sleep!
Here's the link GP (and others) http://vintageairstream.com/rr_topic...operators.html
Scroll down to the bottom. I wish he hadn't lined out the instructions (as he found the new ones being sold.. but the replacement with nylon nut and screw can be read).
Marc
Alright Marc, as you know I have some strong opinions...
Utility trailers... they use a 2 5/16" balls. Race car trailers use 2 5/16" balls. The tow dolly that you might rent or borrow to bring home that classic tow vehicle that you just can't live without, uses a 2 5/16" ball. SOB's use 2 5/16" balls. But, (this is my opinion and I have them) vintage Airstreams.... they use 2". Don't know why it makes a difference to me, but it does.
GP and Marc, Just send the money to Steve, at my favorite place to shop, Vintage Trailer Supply, and buy the friction pads. By the time you go to the store and get the nylon bolts, buy them, figure out how to alter them, alter them, adjust the alterations because it does not slide as smooth as you want it to, then actually make the ones you need, you will have wasted a lot of time you could have spent typing your opinions to others on this forum... it is just easier to snap the new ones on to the openers arm. The reason RJ has that on his site is because not too long ago, there were no replacements available. We now have choices.
Awww...... Frank, I love the opinions! Ok, NORMALLY I'd be inclined to say yes, keep the 2" ball (in fact, I bought a kit to fix said coupler... just so I could get it to a shop to change the coupler to a 2 5/16" ball without fear of the trailer coming off the ball... cheap insurance at $17.00......). BUT.. my near vintage Argosy has the bigger ball... and, I don't really want to have to buy another hitch head just for the vintage unit to use my WD bars and sway control.... so in order to simplify.. I'm going non-vintage for a bigger coupler on the TW.
My boat, however, will keep the 2" ball coupler.
Trust me.. VTS has my money... and my eternal thanks for what Steve does... I have a local True Value right around the corner from my house (as in 2 small blocks, walking distance in fact), and I love poking around their screws and nuts (that's me) section. So, I don't mind trying to figure out a nylon friction pad... it gives me another excuse to look around. Honestly, if this doesn't work, then yes, I'll be buying them up at VTS.
I spend already too much time here... nobody will miss me... with the elves... working away at some plastic device...
Marc
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