The C-channel is actually an L shape. The long vertical leg of the L is sandwiched between the floor channel and the exterior skin. The C is formed by the bottom of the U/floor channel and the short horizontal leg of the L. The space created by this is exactly the thickness of the subfloor plywood.
I am hoping that when I remove this layer, the shell will continue to hold that 3/4 thickness space open so that the new flooring will slide into place.
Aerowood (referenced above in another post) has illustrated well that this C has to be replaced by a better water deflector, and the flooring has to be connected to the frame and floor channel, and the entire back end has to be made much more secure. Andy from Inland RV told me the same in a recent conversation.
Obviously, this design flaw contributed to some of the rot of the flooring, but in my Trade Wind, it also looks like the battery was allowed to leak. All of the rot and corrosion of metal supports my theory.
Regarding the rivets that you are grinding off from the inside they do indeed fit the description of pop rivets. Chopping off rivets with the 5-way tool really only works from the head end as you have discovered. The steel shank does break off when you pull the pop rivet into place but only the part that would stick out above the rivet head. The other part stays in place where it has made the back end of the rivet enlarged. When you chop off the head of an aluminum pop rivet the steel shank does not get in the way because the end of it is slightly recessed into the rivet body.
Anne...Chopping off rivets with the 5-way tool really only works from the head end as you have discovered.
For the "hidden" rivets that fasten the banana wrap/belly pan behind the bottom of the exterior skin, I just drilled through the exterior skin to drill these out. These holes will be covered by by the belt line trim when complete... so the extra holes revealing the hidden rivets will not matter. Much easier than trying to shear the head with the 5-way.
When I finally got the bathroom compartment floor out and began to clean up the frame, I found some differences between cross-members.
The cross-member located beneath the floor joint is a bit shorter in height than the last cross-member located just forward of the black tank compartment.
The cross-member at the floor joint permits a section of plywood that was stapled into the sub-floor. A central rail extends between the last (taller) cross-member, and this center rail is cut away to receive the plywood sub-floor joint support.
Are these cross-members found at all floor joints throughout the trailer? Does it make sense to replace these plywood joint supports if they are in good shape (this one seems to be).
Is there anything to be concerned about with these different sized cross-members? Will this affect future attempts to relocate the black tank or add a gray tank?
__________________
Anne
Indianapolis, IN
Last edited by IndyAnne; 06-07-2008 at 10:40 PM.
Reason: Forgot to add photos
Are these cross-members found at all floor joints throughout the trailer?
Yes, they will be located at each joint in the plywood.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyAnne
Does it make sense to replace these plywood joint supports if they are in good shape (this one seems to be).
If you are leaving it in-place, I would not try to replace it, but if it is to be removed, then I would replace it with new material.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyAnne
Is there anything to be concerned about with these different sized cross-members? Will this affect future attempts to relocate the black tank or add a gray tank?
When I reconfigured my frame to accommodate a new black and an added gray tank, I replaced the cross members that carry the tanks with solid 14ga bent plates. In one case the member I replaced was at a plywood joint. I did not configure it to utilize the plywood splice piece, but I did add a 12ga flat plate that runs along the edge of the main rail and will run cross member to cross member over the tank. I also plan to use biscuits in the plywood joints when I get around to replacing the floor.
BTW, are you just replacing the rear 4'-0 with nyloboard? Are you leaving the balance of the sub floor intact? If so, you will have to make accommodations for the variation in thickness of the existing 5/8" thick plywood and the 3/4" thick Nyloboard.
Thanks, Steve. So, the flat plate will be solid over the tank? That's a great idea, to protect the plate from above as well as below.
The transition of 1/8" will be something to deal with. Eventually, I do hope to replace the entire floor, so I won't do anything permanent about the difference this summer. I am planning to go with adhesive tiles for the former bath area with the new floor. Maybe the transition to a different material, maybe just replace the indoor/outdoor carpet for the time being, will help with the transition.
Thanks for your reply. Yes, the nyloboard is just the bath compartment for now. Eventually, I'll go throughout with it. I'll have to think of something to compensate for the 1/8" between the back compartment and the rest. I figure I'll use adhesive tile for a temporary flooring on the nyloboard this summer. The indoor/outdoor carpet through the rest should be an easy temporary way to handle the transition.
We want to keep on camping while making some changes. This means several accommodations while working toward more permanent fixtures. I'm working mentally today on how to use the black tank without actually putting it back under the frame. I figure I'll work out a plan for a long weekend trip coming up and see how it goes. Any suggestions?
I'm thinking about putting up "soft" partitions for the time being to see what it might be like to live with some different configurations for the toilet, lav, and shower, while keeping the goal of moving a larger full bed into the back compartment. For now, we are not planning to use the Airstream shower, so the toilet is the main concern.
We also want to tailgate more Colts games this fall and winter, so this means getting the toilet/lav into a more convenient location for tailgate guests. (We charge a beer or a brat to use the loo. Just kidding. But, people have done that, unasked.)
Again, thanks for checking in and contributing to my project. I appreciate the advice.
I'm thinking about putting up "soft" partitions for the time being to see what it might be like to live with some different configurations for the toilet, lav, and shower, while keeping the goal of moving a larger full bed into the back compartment. For now, we are not planning to use the Airstream shower, so the toilet is the main concern.
Anne
Anne,
I have given some thought to using soft partitions as a permanent solution. Check out the following thread for some discussion that I launched on the topic:
I also spent some time sketching up various appoaches to how one might attach fabric walls to the curved surfaces inside an Airstream. If you are interested I could probably scan a few things that could give you a head start.
BTW, are you just replacing the rear 4'-0 with nyloboard? Are you leaving the balance of the sub floor intact? If so, you will have to make accommodations for the variation in thickness of the existing 5/8" thick plywood and the 3/4" thick Nyloboard.[/QUOTE]
Byramcaravanner has explained a concern about the skins/shell along the transition between the nyloboard 3/4" and the original 5/8" plywood, and differences in installed furnishings across the transition. Good point. I can imagine the difference, even 1/8", might create some shifting between the skin layers. This could mean even more leak problems, not to mention just the idea of a distortion in the shell over time.
Hmm. Steve suggested a 2 foot long shim tapering from 1/8" to 0" from the joint along the floor, I think underneath the floor/U-channel. I can do that. One side will be easier because the floor channel does not exist (where the water heater was). But, then I will run pretty quickly into wheel wells on both sides. I'll go measure...
Thanks, Malcolm, that would be great! Would you post them here, or should I PM my email?
Anne
Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
Anne,
I have given some thought to using soft partitions as a permanent solution. Check out the following thread for some discussion that I launched on the topic:
I also spent some time sketching up various appoaches to how one might attach fabric walls to the curved surfaces inside an Airstream. If you are interested I could probably scan a few things that could give you a head start.
Byramcaravanner has explained a concern about the skins/shell along the transition between the nyloboard 3/4" and the original 5/8" plywood, and differences in installed furnishings across the transition. Good point. I can imagine the difference, even 1/8", might create some shifting between the skin layers. This could mean even more leak problems, not to mention just the idea of a distortion in the shell over time.
Hmm. Steve suggested a 2 foot long shim tapering from 1/8" to 0" from the joint along the floor, I think underneath the floor/U-channel. I can do that. One side will be easier because the floor channel does not exist (where the water heater was). But, then I will run pretty quickly into wheel wells on both sides. I'll go measure...
Thanks, Steve,
Anne
Anne,
If you have access to a router you could shave 1/8" off of the thickness of the new flooring around the edges so that it fits in the same space as before. Theoretically I suppose you could shave 1/8" off around the edges on the bottom side and where the flooring sits on a cross-member. That way the top of the flooring would be even with the old.
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