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Old 08-08-2009, 10:27 AM   #29
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Could be few reasons for one side to be touching more then the other. The trailer may not be level. The aluminum may be trimmed different. Get the floor in and I think you'll find that it straightens out. I used some dunnage and a bottle jack to lift the shell up enough to line up the rivet holes. As far as the ribs go it looks just like mine when I had it apart.
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Old 08-08-2009, 11:11 AM   #30
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Found a photo of the back of mine. Hope it helps. This was during the deconstruction phase.
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Old 08-08-2009, 11:20 AM   #31
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That's great, thank you! Do you remember if the ribs shown in the picture were attached with rivets to the shell. Mine is not, almost as if they missed!
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Old 08-08-2009, 11:34 AM   #32
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If I recall right the ribs were not attached at the bottom and only a couple of rivets going up the wall. They seem to be there only to attach the skin both inside and out. The only place I saw the ribs actually sit in the c-channel was on the sides of the trailer.
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Old 08-08-2009, 12:05 PM   #33
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I just did the rear floor in my 68 TW. I did the luan template as well. 5/8 plywood is HEAVY and very hard move when trying to fit. I had to split my rear floor into 2 pieces, a big one on the curb side and a smaller piece for the street side. The seam is down the middle of the frame rail on the street side. I could not get a single sheet into position because I left part of my kitchen cabinets in place. I found that by putting a radius with a router on the edges that slide into the channel in the rear and by beveling the edges down to the radius edge that the installation went much better. Also, I coated all outside edges top and bottom and in about 4 inches with West epoxy. Just brushed a thin coat on both sides, figured that is where the rot started before may as well do what I could to seal things. A benefit of doing that was the edge was very hard and slick and it made the new floor slip into place much easier. The difference in height of the original 5/8 plywood and what is sold now (cause it isn't a full 5/8 anymore) was made up with shim strips I cut from 30 lb. roofing felt and layed on the crossmember where the old and new floor met.
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Old 08-08-2009, 04:15 PM   #34
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Actually I think you are probably who suggested to me to use the luan as a template. Yes, as hard as it was to put the flexible and light luan in there in one piece, I can't even figure out how you could put 5/8" in there as one piece. Though I have read on here that some do it.
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Old 08-08-2009, 05:50 PM   #35
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Michael, I am following your progress. Keep up the good work and don't stop asking questions. Ed
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Old 08-08-2009, 10:53 PM   #36
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Thanks Ed I needed that!
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Old 08-09-2009, 11:56 AM   #37
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Is this frame detail stock?

Kinda looks like it may have been added, if so wonder why? The 'ear' on the outside of frame rail is what I am questioning....

Thanks
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Old 08-09-2009, 03:31 PM   #38
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Mine didn't have the the tab but I don't think it's anything to worry about. I don't see anything that screams problem. Could be something that was added to the longer frames. I'll post a pic of mine.
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Old 08-09-2009, 05:28 PM   #39
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Looks about like mine did, but there were not tabs. Maybe someone welded a tab on the frame to try and stop separation. On the ribs that come down about even with the crossmember there was a piece of steel angle riveted to the rib and the bolted through the floor. This was factory. Interesting also, I found and least a 1/2 cup of rivets just lying in the channel all along the back. Only explanation I could think of was the whistle blew for lunch and the worker who was inside just dumped a handful in the channel, but there were rivets on both sides of the trailer. An Airstream mystery.

I coated my frame with Rust Encapsulator from the Eastwood Company. I have used POR on other projects but IMO the Eastwood product is better. Also you can get it in black.
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Old 08-09-2009, 08:39 PM   #40
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Subtract some more interior

Well guess I am stranded on that 'slippery slope' went to remove the next floor panel and realized that some more of the interior needed to be removed to do it right, sooooooo there's not much left in there. I started this project thinking I could do it in small increments. Now it looks like this.
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Old 08-13-2009, 08:10 PM   #41
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Belly Flop

I've removed the two most rearward pieces of subfloor and dropped the belly pan up to the rear axle. I'm thinking I should just cut the belly pan at the frame cross member to make removing the entire pan a bit easier. I'm sure a grey tank will be located in the space that can be seen in the pic so the belly pan would have to be cut there anyhow. The space that I have is 22.5" x 54.5"
Still contemplating shell off....
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Old 08-13-2009, 08:19 PM   #42
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I'd think real hard about the shell off, if your frame is OK. I know how much time I am taking and a shell off would really take a while. I am ready to go camping! Another thing to think about, around here (Memphis area) .025 aluminum sheets are available in 4x10 sheets for a reasonable price. Keep in mind the dimension you will need for the belly pan. The factory used long sheet and they were not available anywhere around here. Shipping on rolled up pieces of aluminum that are oversize is very expensive. I cut my new belly pan that goes under the black day today. It was the piece between the frame rails so the 4x10 worked well. Hope to have it in and the bumper trunk built by Saturday.
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