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Old 08-06-2009, 10:20 AM   #21
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I guess I'm unclear what rear end sag is and how you determine if you have it. Wait a minute I know how to determine if I have it, look in a mirror. I meant how to determine if your trailer has it! I guess I thought it was when the frame drooped a bit causing a separation between the shell and the floor. If this were the case why would it need notches ? Unless the shell sags downward or the frame gets bent upward somehow???? How can I confirm whether I have a problem or not?
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Old 08-06-2009, 10:32 AM   #22
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What your doing now will fix any rear seperation problems. Going through the outside to fix a sag problem is easer than taking out the bath area. It's usually a tempoary fix.
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Old 08-06-2009, 10:42 AM   #23
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Lee,

Thanks for that and yes I hate that spray foam crap! It made a lot of my job so much harder. Heading out to do some more work, it is uncustomarily cool here to today and I want to take full advantage! I'll post progress later.
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Old 08-06-2009, 07:57 PM   #24
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Oh wow! Yeah, that's definitely not a weep hole! My eyes were playing tricks on me last night...I only saw a triangle sized hole (wasn't able to enlarge the pic last night), but now I see it clearly.
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Old 08-07-2009, 08:29 AM   #25
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Making rear floor template

Here's what's left of the rear floor. The large section in the middle was a PO's attempt at floor repair, it was supported by the black tank only! I aligned the U-channel up with the original attachment holes where they were available and used wood screws to attach to some 1/8" luan. This enabled me to trace around the edge of the floor and U-channel where floor had disintegrated to create at template out of the luan sheet. I'll check the luan template for fit before I take the next piece flooring out. Then use template to make new flooring.
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:48 AM   #26
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Have a little problem-help

I've been trying to figure out why the left rear of the trailer skin is jammed against the frame rail. What I think is that maybe at some time in this trailers life it was either damaged and repaired via a skin over existing, I see no evidence of damage from the inside, though it could be under the interior endcap . Another possibility is that it was skinned over due to rear end sag and when skinned it seem that it the curved bottom panel extends about 1/2" lower than the panel on the other side. So, if this is the case what is my course of action to fix it? Remove and replace or just trim the bottom edge? Hope you can see what I am speaking of. Also, does this look like the way the bumper was originally attached?
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Old 08-08-2009, 09:00 AM   #27
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Have you put the floor back in? If not. The shell is sitting on the frame because you took out the floor and c-channel that supports the shell.
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Old 08-08-2009, 10:13 AM   #28
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Still perplexed

I think it is a bit more than that as there is nothing supporting the shell on either side. Left side is tightly jammed into the frame and the right side is not. The floor is not back in, just the template to check fit. So, if what you say is correct ( and you very well may be correct) why is it not the same on both sides? Next question is how will I raise the shell if what you say is correct? I tried to lift it by grabbing under the edge but it didn't budge at all. Also, another thing about that corner is the 2 support ribs that you can see in the picture are not attached to shell except at the very to of the ribs. Thanks for looking
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Old 08-08-2009, 10:27 AM   #29
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Could be few reasons for one side to be touching more then the other. The trailer may not be level. The aluminum may be trimmed different. Get the floor in and I think you'll find that it straightens out. I used some dunnage and a bottle jack to lift the shell up enough to line up the rivet holes. As far as the ribs go it looks just like mine when I had it apart.
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Old 08-08-2009, 11:11 AM   #30
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Found a photo of the back of mine. Hope it helps. This was during the deconstruction phase.
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Old 08-08-2009, 11:20 AM   #31
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That's great, thank you! Do you remember if the ribs shown in the picture were attached with rivets to the shell. Mine is not, almost as if they missed!
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Old 08-08-2009, 11:34 AM   #32
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If I recall right the ribs were not attached at the bottom and only a couple of rivets going up the wall. They seem to be there only to attach the skin both inside and out. The only place I saw the ribs actually sit in the c-channel was on the sides of the trailer.
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Old 08-08-2009, 12:05 PM   #33
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I just did the rear floor in my 68 TW. I did the luan template as well. 5/8 plywood is HEAVY and very hard move when trying to fit. I had to split my rear floor into 2 pieces, a big one on the curb side and a smaller piece for the street side. The seam is down the middle of the frame rail on the street side. I could not get a single sheet into position because I left part of my kitchen cabinets in place. I found that by putting a radius with a router on the edges that slide into the channel in the rear and by beveling the edges down to the radius edge that the installation went much better. Also, I coated all outside edges top and bottom and in about 4 inches with West epoxy. Just brushed a thin coat on both sides, figured that is where the rot started before may as well do what I could to seal things. A benefit of doing that was the edge was very hard and slick and it made the new floor slip into place much easier. The difference in height of the original 5/8 plywood and what is sold now (cause it isn't a full 5/8 anymore) was made up with shim strips I cut from 30 lb. roofing felt and layed on the crossmember where the old and new floor met.
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Old 08-08-2009, 04:15 PM   #34
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Actually I think you are probably who suggested to me to use the luan as a template. Yes, as hard as it was to put the flexible and light luan in there in one piece, I can't even figure out how you could put 5/8" in there as one piece. Though I have read on here that some do it.
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Old 08-08-2009, 05:50 PM   #35
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Michael, I am following your progress. Keep up the good work and don't stop asking questions. Ed
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Old 08-08-2009, 10:53 PM   #36
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Thanks Ed I needed that!
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Old 08-09-2009, 11:56 AM   #37
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Is this frame detail stock?

Kinda looks like it may have been added, if so wonder why? The 'ear' on the outside of frame rail is what I am questioning....

Thanks
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Old 08-09-2009, 03:31 PM   #38
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Mine didn't have the the tab but I don't think it's anything to worry about. I don't see anything that screams problem. Could be something that was added to the longer frames. I'll post a pic of mine.
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Old 08-09-2009, 05:28 PM   #39
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Looks about like mine did, but there were not tabs. Maybe someone welded a tab on the frame to try and stop separation. On the ribs that come down about even with the crossmember there was a piece of steel angle riveted to the rib and the bolted through the floor. This was factory. Interesting also, I found and least a 1/2 cup of rivets just lying in the channel all along the back. Only explanation I could think of was the whistle blew for lunch and the worker who was inside just dumped a handful in the channel, but there were rivets on both sides of the trailer. An Airstream mystery.

I coated my frame with Rust Encapsulator from the Eastwood Company. I have used POR on other projects but IMO the Eastwood product is better. Also you can get it in black.
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Old 08-09-2009, 08:39 PM   #40
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Subtract some more interior

Well guess I am stranded on that 'slippery slope' went to remove the next floor panel and realized that some more of the interior needed to be removed to do it right, sooooooo there's not much left in there. I started this project thinking I could do it in small increments. Now it looks like this.
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