Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-02-2009, 05:18 PM   #15
Rivet Master
 
SilverHoot's Avatar
 
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville , South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,104
Blog Entries: 3
Bathroom is out!

Was able to put in quite a few hours today. Here's where it's at.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3512.JPG
Views:	237
Size:	640.9 KB
ID:	84838  
__________________

SilverHoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2009, 05:37 PM   #16
Rivet Master
 
SilverHoot's Avatar
 
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville , South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,104
Blog Entries: 3
What's up with this?

Can't figure out why these cutouts are on the exterior skin and in the U-channel on both side above the frame. Take a look.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3531.JPG
Views:	260
Size:	785.4 KB
ID:	84967  
__________________

SilverHoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2009, 08:30 PM   #17
Rivet Master
 
StingrayL82's Avatar
 
San Angelo , Texas
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,254
Images: 37
I believe those might be weepholes, to get rid of condensation?
__________________
Frederic
1971 Sovereign International - SOLD

2004 F-350 King Ranch

AIR # 8239
EX-WBCCI # 8371
StingrayL82 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2009, 09:16 PM   #18
Rivet Master
 
SilverHoot's Avatar
 
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville , South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,104
Blog Entries: 3
Had not thought of that. although I would not have expected them to be so large 1.5" x 6"
SilverHoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2009, 07:35 AM   #19
Rivet Master
 
SilverHoot's Avatar
 
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville , South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,104
Blog Entries: 3
Rear floor removed

Not the horribleness that I have seen hidden under some floors. Frame looks like no major problems. The U-channel had some little 'T' shaped nails that that were difficult to remove when they weren't rusted way. Now I get to try and recreate the corner curve where it was completely rotted away. The plan is to put the old floor on a piece of luan then put the U-channel in it's original position and tracing the curve of the U-channel where there is no floor. Then will use the luan to test fit.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3547.JPG
Views:	247
Size:	717.8 KB
ID:	84986  
SilverHoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2009, 07:40 AM   #20
Rivet Master
 
silverleeper's Avatar
 
1967 22' Safari
1960 Caravel
Edmonds , Washington
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,499
Images: 8
Not weep holes!

Not weep holes. I'm going to guess that was cut to some rear sag frame repair in the past. If you look at the sprayed black stuff you can see the holes were cut after assembly. Looks like it's weakened the c-channel and it's cracking. You should reinforce or replace those areas. Yep the t-nails are a pain in the @##. Good progress. Keep it up!

P.S. By the time I was done I really hated the spray in foam insulation.
__________________
Lee

1973 F-250 4X4 390
1965 Chevy Suburban 454
AIR 6030
WBCCI 4258
TCT

silverleeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2009, 10:20 AM   #21
Rivet Master
 
SilverHoot's Avatar
 
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville , South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,104
Blog Entries: 3
I guess I'm unclear what rear end sag is and how you determine if you have it. Wait a minute I know how to determine if I have it, look in a mirror. I meant how to determine if your trailer has it! I guess I thought it was when the frame drooped a bit causing a separation between the shell and the floor. If this were the case why would it need notches ? Unless the shell sags downward or the frame gets bent upward somehow???? How can I confirm whether I have a problem or not?
SilverHoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2009, 10:32 AM   #22
Rivet Master
 
silverleeper's Avatar
 
1967 22' Safari
1960 Caravel
Edmonds , Washington
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,499
Images: 8
What your doing now will fix any rear seperation problems. Going through the outside to fix a sag problem is easer than taking out the bath area. It's usually a tempoary fix.
__________________
Lee

1973 F-250 4X4 390
1965 Chevy Suburban 454
AIR 6030
WBCCI 4258
TCT

silverleeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2009, 10:42 AM   #23
Rivet Master
 
SilverHoot's Avatar
 
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville , South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,104
Blog Entries: 3
Lee,

Thanks for that and yes I hate that spray foam crap! It made a lot of my job so much harder. Heading out to do some more work, it is uncustomarily cool here to today and I want to take full advantage! I'll post progress later.
SilverHoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2009, 07:57 PM   #24
Rivet Master
 
StingrayL82's Avatar
 
San Angelo , Texas
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,254
Images: 37
Oh wow! Yeah, that's definitely not a weep hole! My eyes were playing tricks on me last night...I only saw a triangle sized hole (wasn't able to enlarge the pic last night), but now I see it clearly.
__________________
Frederic
1971 Sovereign International - SOLD

2004 F-350 King Ranch

AIR # 8239
EX-WBCCI # 8371
StingrayL82 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2009, 08:29 AM   #25
Rivet Master
 
SilverHoot's Avatar
 
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville , South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,104
Blog Entries: 3
Making rear floor template

Here's what's left of the rear floor. The large section in the middle was a PO's attempt at floor repair, it was supported by the black tank only! I aligned the U-channel up with the original attachment holes where they were available and used wood screws to attach to some 1/8" luan. This enabled me to trace around the edge of the floor and U-channel where floor had disintegrated to create at template out of the luan sheet. I'll check the luan template for fit before I take the next piece flooring out. Then use template to make new flooring.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3551.JPG
Views:	166
Size:	575.5 KB
ID:	85022  
SilverHoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2009, 07:48 AM   #26
Rivet Master
 
SilverHoot's Avatar
 
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville , South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,104
Blog Entries: 3
Have a little problem-help

I've been trying to figure out why the left rear of the trailer skin is jammed against the frame rail. What I think is that maybe at some time in this trailers life it was either damaged and repaired via a skin over existing, I see no evidence of damage from the inside, though it could be under the interior endcap . Another possibility is that it was skinned over due to rear end sag and when skinned it seem that it the curved bottom panel extends about 1/2" lower than the panel on the other side. So, if this is the case what is my course of action to fix it? Remove and replace or just trim the bottom edge? Hope you can see what I am speaking of. Also, does this look like the way the bumper was originally attached?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3570.JPG
Views:	144
Size:	453.5 KB
ID:	85044   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3572.JPG
Views:	148
Size:	676.9 KB
ID:	85045  

SilverHoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2009, 09:00 AM   #27
Rivet Master
 
silverleeper's Avatar
 
1967 22' Safari
1960 Caravel
Edmonds , Washington
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,499
Images: 8
Have you put the floor back in? If not. The shell is sitting on the frame because you took out the floor and c-channel that supports the shell.
__________________
Lee

1973 F-250 4X4 390
1965 Chevy Suburban 454
AIR 6030
WBCCI 4258
TCT

silverleeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2009, 10:13 AM   #28
Rivet Master
 
SilverHoot's Avatar
 
1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville , South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,104
Blog Entries: 3
Still perplexed

I think it is a bit more than that as there is nothing supporting the shell on either side. Left side is tightly jammed into the frame and the right side is not. The floor is not back in, just the template to check fit. So, if what you say is correct ( and you very well may be correct) why is it not the same on both sides? Next question is how will I raise the shell if what you say is correct? I tried to lift it by grabbing under the edge but it didn't budge at all. Also, another thing about that corner is the 2 support ribs that you can see in the picture are not attached to shell except at the very to of the ribs. Thanks for looking
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3567.JPG
Views:	181
Size:	549.1 KB
ID:	85051  
__________________

SilverHoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1967


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1962 Tradewind - Renovation Epic 2333 1959-69 Tradewind 115 08-23-2018 04:40 PM
Wiring Diagram for 1967 Tradewind 24 Ft? Frank&Mike Lights - Interior & Exterior 13 08-18-2012 11:41 AM
Just got a 1967 Tradewind! SilverHoot 1959-69 Tradewind 7 06-18-2009 11:42 AM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:25 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.