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Old 05-04-2007, 07:33 PM   #57
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Holes lining up...

Aerowood,
I can see how the more sturdy curved sections might actually line up. I'm not as hopeful though about the folded belly wrap holes also lining up with them. Either way, the condition of the belly skins isn't great and I might replace those anyways. If that's the case I might just replace the U-Channel as well. I should have the belly dropped by this weekend to know better.

Did you chose the do the 1/2 and 1/2 to make it easier (to line things up, maintain some strength with the shell on, etc) or was that just how it worked out?
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Old 05-04-2007, 09:43 PM   #58
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It was all about space, or the lack of it. I have it over at my fathers house due to covenants at my house. The Home Owners Association told me that I cold bring it home and work on it on weekends but nothing long term. As soon as the exterior is done I will be dragging it home to do the interior on weekends.
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Old 05-05-2007, 07:35 PM   #59
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Belly Pan Off

...took a little finagling, but I got the pans off today. Like some others, I dropped all the sides then remembered there's rivets down the middle and the brackets screwed in to hold up the propane lines. So I crawled under and had fun with those.

I also started on the elevator bolts and used a method I'd heard about here in the forums. That is, using a "drill hole" to remove the wood around a bolt, then lifting off the wood and cutting the bolts later. I am hoping this allows me to maintain some integrity of the wood to use as a template. It seems to work but it started lightning and hailing just as I was lifting off the first section.

Again, glad I'm doing the Shell-Off, lots of really weak rotted spots in the floor.
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Old 05-06-2007, 06:38 PM   #60
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Floor Off

Got the floor off in sections today and left the U-Channels attached for templates later. A few notes:

- As in the previous post I was using a drill hole to remove the wood around the elevator bolts. Using the 2-1/8", I would have to drill, then remove wood around the bolt (1-2 minutes per bolt). It's easier using a 1" drill hole bit. It's just larger than the elevator bolt, drills faster, and afterwards you don't have to remove any wood. Just lift the plywood right off (20-30 seconds per bolt).

- The axle is not original, still can see where the shocks used to attach. The drums are hydralic type. Will be replacing both.

- The frame is in pretty good shape. Except the outrigger by the toilet is rot, left street side frame bends down toward the end, and I need to repair a missing section of the frame (see post 49).

All in all I am happy with the frame and it should clean-up well with some POR-15.
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Old 05-06-2007, 07:01 PM   #61
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Watching and learning...

Looking good, keep it up...
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Old 08-26-2007, 04:37 PM   #62
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Frame POR-15

Removed the shock absorber attachments.
Had new torsion axles and drums with electric brakes put on.
Removed all the old brake line hardware.
Added an additional crossbar in the back.
Straightened the rear bumper and frame back by the toilet.
Replaced an outrigger than sat under the toilet and had rusted through badly.
Original jack was cracked, removed and replaced with new one.

Marine Clean.
Metal Ready.
POR-15 (2 coats) There was greater than 72 hours between the coats and therefore a self-etching primer was used prior to the second coat.
It took 2 and 1/2 quarts of POR-15 to do it all.

I tried to duplicate the pics from the previous post to show a sort-of before and after. The step took some hammering and bending to get it to work right. It still has a few rust holes thru it, but ya know, it's original and it's probably sturdier than any new one.
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Old 10-21-2007, 07:03 PM   #63
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Floor Work....

Just pluggin' along at a snail's pace....
  • Had new wheel wells fabricated from galvanized steel and then I POR-15'ed the undersides. The old ones were shot. Really nice work by a local metal work shop.
  • I had all new straight U-channel made (out of a bit thicker aluminum than the original .024"), but salvaged the curved sections. Wire brushed off the corrosion with a grinder, then Metal Clean, Metal Prep, and next POR-15.
  • Laid on top each other, the curved sections are basically exactly the same. Just an observation.
  • I used the old floor as a template and cut new floor from tongue-n-groove 3/4" plywood. Due to concerns for corrosion, I used untreated ply and then applied "CPES" penetrating epoxy (Rot Dr).
....and then, things come to a halt due to the first snow of the season. Colorado weather is like this, yesterday it was in the 70's, today freezing and 6-8 inches of snow, then back up to the 70's in a few days. Because of this variability, I need to have everything set to do the next step all at once. Wood bolted down, U-channel on, insulation under, belly pan on, then drop down shell and rivet. I might get a 2-3 day stretch of nice weather, so I am trying to prep it all first. Anyway, see ya next post.
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Old 12-16-2007, 05:26 PM   #64
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Floor and Wheel Wells On....

We had a break in the weather here and I took advantage of it. The long period without working on the trailer did allow for all the epoxy fumes to dissipate from the wood, so that's the good part to the delay. It got up into the 30's or so, but in the direct sun, it was warm.

Used stabilizer jacks to straighten the frame.
I finally got the wheel wells sized correctly (originally too wide, that lost me another 2 weeks), placed them on top of a generous bead of vulkem.
Laid the floor on top and bolted it down using fanged elevator bolts (Makes it easier when it's a one-man operation).

The length from steel plate-to-steel plate is the same, the width of the floor is the same, and it's flush with the curbside step and outriggers. This makes it hang out a bit farther on the streetside, but that's the way the original one was as well (at least as far as I remember ).
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Old 12-16-2007, 06:27 PM   #65
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Craig,

Glad to see you got a weather break. That picture of your trailer with the snow all around would make a great Christmas card picture. You are sure doing some great work. Greatly appreciate your sharing in such detail your efforts.

Merry Christmas

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Old 12-19-2007, 07:17 PM   #66
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U-Channel On

Someday I'll have a great vintage ride like Barry's to pull this .....but that's a ways off.

Decent weather again, so back to work.
  • The black curved U-channels are the original, just cleaned, prep'ed, and POR-15'ed. They are all basically identical in size and curvature as I posted before, but L and R-sided.
  • To place them correctly, (if you kept them labeled well, as to which corner they belong to), you can simply line up the old rivet holes from the front and rear steel plates with the the rivet holes in the U-Channel.
  • I had all new straight-channel made rather than salvage the brittle old stuff. It's the same thickness as the curved sections and thus stiffer.
  • Ran a bead of Vulkem under it all.
  • Tacked it down with 3/4" wood screws. The original had elevator bolts holding it down as well, but I thought this was overkill. I can still put in the elevator bolts if needed, does anyone have thoughts on this?
  • I ran U-channel across where the opening of the door goes, you can see a gap there due to the wood bending when I bolted the wood to the the step's framework (not sure why). I am not confident the door will line up if I had pre-cut the u-channel, so I didn't bead or screw down this short section since I will cut it to exact specs once the shell is there to measure it exactly. Then, the gap will disappear as well.
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Old 12-20-2007, 09:12 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2333
  • Tacked it down with 3/4" wood screws. The original had elevator bolts holding it down as well, but I thought this was overkill. I can still put in the elevator bolts if needed, does anyone have thoughts on this?
Thoughts? You should use elevator bolts. The screws over time may back out or wiggle free from the wood much easier than elevator bolts will. They are the major structural element holding the shell to the floor and you won't want to remove everything again later to fix a problem when things get loose. You are going to all this effort now, do it right.

Looks good though ~

Shari
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Old 12-20-2007, 10:39 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2333
Tacked it down with 3/4" wood screws. The original had elevator bolts holding it down as well, but I thought this was overkill. I can still put in the elevator bolts if needed, does anyone have thoughts on this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
Thoughts? You should use elevator bolts... They are the major structural element holding the shell to the floor...
I agree with Shari!

These bolts (and to some degree, the rivets on the wraps) are what holds the shell on the frame. Unless you are planning on doing some "shell off" camping, I would bolt the U channel through the floor/outriggers.
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Old 12-22-2007, 07:56 PM   #69
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Insulation

Yes, to the elevator bolts. It's too easy to put them in right now to not do it.

On that thought, the belly pan goes on soon, and I have heard of some folks not intending on bending it over the U-Channel. Their reasoning - this would make future removal easier and that bending it over doesn't add anything structurally significant. So, I need to ponder that one.

I am using Tuff-R commercial product from Home Depot for the floor insulation. It's 2-inch foam (closed cell), that has a reflective surface on both sides. I am hoping to get the best of both worlds with this. It's true that the frame will conduct right to the wood floor, but I had to compromise somewhere.
  • A bead of construction adhesive.
  • Stuck to the floor.
  • Screwed in.
I hadn't planned on using the screws, but when the first panel went in, I immediately thought "This ain't going to stay glued!". So I looked around for what I had, and I found 2-inch deck screws and left over washers. It's snugged them up tight. 2 and 1/2" screws would have not need to be "countersunk" and would not go thru the 3/4 inch floor, but I used what I had and I can fill the holes and cover them when I use tape (probably reflective) to go back and seal all the insulation seams. When I get it done, I'll post a "completed" pic. Need to get those elevator bolts in as well. Thanks for the input!
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Old 01-06-2008, 04:51 PM   #70
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Floor Insulation Done

Finished the insulation, I hope it was worth it. The more comfortable the family, the more likely they'll want to go camping, so every bit helps.
  • Put the elevator bolts in the U-Channel.
  • I ran out of screws, so I got the 2 1/2" ones and they worked well.
  • I covered the whole floor, then sealed to the cross-members with "Gorilla Tape". I think it'll hold the panels in better than the aluminum tape, which tears quite easily (if the screws and construction adhesive fail).
  • Covered the holes with aluminum tape.
  • "Shaved" the edges where the belly pan will curved up.
As with every part of the rebuild, it seems to take at least 4x longer than anticipated.
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