Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-17-2006, 07:57 PM   #43
3 Rivet Member
 
2333's Avatar
 
1962 24' Tradewind
Rabat , Morocco
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 157
Images: 1
Hot water tank removal...

The last thing left in the trailer was this tank. So...
  1. It is secured to the floor with some metal braces, mine pulled out by hand because of the floor rot. Disconnect all the copper piping. There was an overflow rubber tube, which drained thru the floor, into the belly pan. Not sure how often it overflowed, but that water just sitting in the belly pan couldn't be good. This pic shows the flashing behind the tank on the side wall.
  2. Now it's gone.
  3. Outside, here's the access panel to the gas valves, etc.
  4. Removed all the necessary panels.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Tank 1.JPG
Views:	119
Size:	81.4 KB
ID:	27125   Click image for larger version

Name:	Tank 2.JPG
Views:	97
Size:	60.9 KB
ID:	27126  

Click image for larger version

Name:	outside covers 1.JPG
Views:	119
Size:	89.9 KB
ID:	27127   Click image for larger version

Name:	outside covers 2.JPG
Views:	127
Size:	103.3 KB
ID:	27128  

__________________

__________________
Craig
2333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 08:04 PM   #44
3 Rivet Member
 
2333's Avatar
 
1962 24' Tradewind
Rabat , Morocco
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 157
Images: 1
Next...pull out the tank

Nice to discover that if you disconnect everything really close to the tank, it will easily push/pull right out the hole made for the access panel!
  1. Here is it 1/2 way out. Too easy.
  2. Rust and Rot. From the inside, when this was sitting under the sink, there wasn't any evidence that it wasn't it great shape and I could just keep using it as is. The floor is rotted and this whole area damaged from sitting water.
  3. The bottom of the tank is rusted out, and this extends to the inner tank as well.
I wouldn't have even seen this unless I had committed to the complete restoration. I will scrape this tank, let me know if you need any of the hardware. Not sure what I will replace it with yet.
Inner panels next....
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	pull out tank.JPG
Views:	124
Size:	96.8 KB
ID:	27129   Click image for larger version

Name:	floor under tank.JPG
Views:	122
Size:	62.7 KB
ID:	27130  

Click image for larger version

Name:	rusted tank.JPG
Views:	102
Size:	77.1 KB
ID:	27131  
__________________

__________________
Craig
2333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 08:19 PM   #45
Vintage Alum. Enthusiast
 
flyfshr's Avatar

 
1959 24' Tradewind
Phoenix , Arizona
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: I currently do not own a 2nd Airstream
Posts: 4,325
Images: 40
Nice work Craig. Makes it all worth while to take things like this out and discover the hidden mess. Keep at it.

Brad
FF
__________________
4CU 2699 / AIR 10 / TAC AZ-1

I'm haunted by aluminum.
Charter Member of the 4 Corners Unit.
flyfshr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2006, 09:25 PM   #46
Rivet Master
 
Fyrzowt's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
West of Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 6,698
Images: 8
All this in less than a month! Way to go. You must be very busy with your family, job, trailer, life..........good job, nice progress and documentation as you go.
Dave
Fyrzowt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2006, 12:11 AM   #47
Rivet Master
 
C Johnson's Avatar

 
1965 17' Caravel
Butte , Montana
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,193
Images: 326
Send a message via MSN to C Johnson Send a message via Yahoo to C Johnson
I wouldn't toss out that outside cover. They are very hard to find in that good of shape. FYI I would ebay it or post it on here for sale.
__________________
AIR # 7276, WBCCI # 7276
Photos of Project 2k5
Project 2k5
Life is a journey, not a destination
C Johnson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2006, 09:13 PM   #48
3 Rivet Member
 
2333's Avatar
 
1962 24' Tradewind
Rabat , Morocco
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 157
Images: 1
...Took a Break..

..Well, we got hit with that big snowstorm about 10 days back and that certainly stopped work on the trailer. Then we had Halloween. Fortunately, I was right at the point where the inside was stripped, but the shell and floor were still on, so naturally.... a HAUNTED AIRSTREAM!

So, I turned the trailer into a "Monster Lab". I had a couple red light bulbs flickering on and off, fog machine, scary music, the obligatory jar of eyeballs (peeled grapes), intestines (spaghetti), fingers (carrots), and a few other props. The kids loved it and were really scared. I had fun too.

It really looked great at night, the pictures don't do it justice.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Snow Day Trailer.JPG
Views:	96
Size:	89.1 KB
ID:	28371   Click image for larger version

Name:	MonsterLab.JPG
Views:	116
Size:	53.2 KB
ID:	28372  

Click image for larger version

Name:	MonsterLab 2.JPG
Views:	125
Size:	93.3 KB
ID:	28373   Click image for larger version

Name:	MonsterLab 3.JPG
Views:	118
Size:	79.3 KB
ID:	28374  

__________________
Craig
2333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2006, 09:29 PM   #49
3 Rivet Member
 
2333's Avatar
 
1962 24' Tradewind
Rabat , Morocco
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 157
Images: 1
Back to work.....

....The lower inner panels are off (pic 1). You can see I started to peel back the folded over portion of the belly ban (pic 2). But I am coming to realize that once all the lower rivets are off and the belly pan "unfolded"....is anything but a few "Hidden" rivets holding the shell on?!?!

That one diagram I pilfered from jordan's thread (A-Merry-Can) because it seems to apply well to my trailer and it looks cool.

1. If what I said is true, then how can one drop the belly pans WITHOUT literally having the shell off?

2. Once the belly pan is off, the few rivets left holding the shell on are through the outer edge of the U-Channel and the lower end of the side wall ribs.... and a lot of the ribs don't even go all the way down to the U-Channel (pic 3), so it's like a handful of rivets at best. Is this correct?

Hopefully once I better understand it, then I'll know the sequence I should take. If it appears to be what it looks like, then what I really should do now is:

1. Brace the shell on the inside.
2. Remove all the outer rivets around the whole trailer at the lower end of the shell.
3. Raise the shell.
4. Pull out the trailer.
5. Then unfold the belly pans from the U-Channel.
6. Drop the pans.
7. Unbolt the U-Channel and remove.
8. Remove the floor, fix frame, new axle, put in new wood floor, rebolt channel, etc.

Does this make sense?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Lower Skins off.JPG
Views:	102
Size:	60.7 KB
ID:	28375   Click image for larger version

Name:	U-Channel peel up.JPG
Views:	117
Size:	71.5 KB
ID:	28376  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Side Ribs.JPG
Views:	105
Size:	58.2 KB
ID:	28377   Click image for larger version

Name:	wall-belly-frame.jpg
Views:	137
Size:	31.6 KB
ID:	28379  

__________________
Craig
2333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2007, 10:02 PM   #50
3 Rivet Member
 
2333's Avatar
 
1962 24' Tradewind
Rabat , Morocco
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 157
Images: 1
Shell Off

Wow.
I could blame the weather (it did snow here every weekend in Jan and Feb), I could blame other obligations (work, etc), I could blame a lot of things... but who cares, it's water under the bridge (or wind under the shell), cuz I am back on track now.

5 months it sat in the driveway like that picture in my last post.
The last 2 days I was in a fugue. Had good weather and an open schedule.
During the 5 months, I did occasionaly get out there and drill out the lower skin rivets. Sometimes I'd do 2 sometimes 20. It took a total of about 2-4 hours I'm guessing. It went a LOT faster with the rivet removal tool.

Tip - Buy this tool if you are taking off more than 30 rivets, it's priceless.

I've read here how a few (NorCal, A-Merry-Can, Jim, Flyfisher? Someone, the names are all a blur) did the shell themselves, so I knew it could be done.

1. Search for hidden rivets and cut them off from the rear with a dremel tool.
2. Brace it across at the 4 ribs that are thicker alluminum. You can't miss these main supporting ribs, they are at the square corners before the curve of the endcaps. Obviously thicker than the rest of the ribs.
3. Run 2 longer braces along the sides (also capturing the door).
4. Start jacking it up with a car jack... then stop when it doesn't budge.
5. Search for more hidden rivets . Just for reference: 2 inside each side of the door jam at the bottom, these go into the steel "L" brackets on either side of the doorway. 2 rows of them (one on top the other) into the steel plates at the front and the back below the windows (the front plate is only about 18 inches wide, the rear was the width of the window). Then one on either side of the wheel wells. Then one at each of the 4 thicker supporting ribs.
6. Start again jacking it up at one corner, put a little stress on it and then go around with a putty knife and run it under the outer skin. This un-catches any rivet stems that are still catching in the rivet hole (When you drill and pop off the rivet head you can try to "nail-punch" the stem back into the trailer, but some just don't budge and these are the ones that the shell catches on later). The putty knife also loosens the vulcum goo. As you do this, the corner will suddenly pop-up! So, give just enough lift-stress with the jack to maybe raise it 1-2cm before going around with the putty knife (but, not enough to warp or kink anything).
7. Once a corner gets up 1", then put a few wood blocks under the wood framework there and go do the adjacent corner.
8. Keep going around corner to corner till it's all up, then you can just jack right at the mid-point of the front and rear. Go a bit at a time building your support under the woodframe. I stacked cinder blocks on the floor of the trailer.
9. Once it's up high enough, then build another wooden framework right undeneath the first one, but you need to have it extend out past the sides of the shell to sit on cinder block supports that are on the ground (or homemade sawhorses as others have done) see picture.
10. Lower the shell onto the outer supports.
11. Secure to ground. Lots of options here. I drilled right into the driveway and screwed in 4 big eye bolts then lashed the framwork to them. Overkill? No.
11. Pull trailer out from shell and get to work.

Notes:
- Google Search 53-400 Rivet Removal Tool. Everyone sells the same one, just get the best price.
- A single 2x4, serving as a brace between 2 main ribs (either front or back), secured to the ribs with only 2 screws on each side, can lift an entire side of the shell, from a single mid-beam jackpoint. I don't recommend this, but it happened. See picture.
- I used a minimum wood framework for the intial lift and then further braced it later. Only two 2x4's across the width and a small one bridging the door. All my exterior skins are on and only the lower inner ones removed. This obviously provided a lot of torsion strength as I had no noticeable flex.
- You need to raise it up high enough for wheels, wheel wells, propane tank holders, etc, to clear the bottom of the skin as you pull out the trailer. Some of those are removable and could lower the sillouete of the trailer considerably.

Hope this more detailed account of the shell-off helps the next guy who needs to do this him or herself.

Disclaimer: This is only the way I did it, you should build a much stronger shell support frame (before you start jacking it up), have 10 friends help you, use a better jack, have stronger outer support structures, and ground it more securely.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Hidden rivets.JPG
Views:	105
Size:	96.2 KB
ID:	36509   Click image for larger version

Name:	Corner up.JPG
Views:	97
Size:	85.5 KB
ID:	36510  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Lifting Shell.JPG
Views:	110
Size:	78.4 KB
ID:	36512   Click image for larger version

Name:	Shell up.JPG
Views:	109
Size:	80.8 KB
ID:	36513  

Attached Images
 
__________________
Craig
2333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2007, 12:10 PM   #51
Rivet Master
 
pinkflamingoes's Avatar
 
1967 24' Tradewind
Alameda , California
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,569
Images: 38
Blog Entries: 3
Send a message via AIM to pinkflamingoes Send a message via Yahoo to pinkflamingoes

Hope this more detailed account of the shell-off helps the next guy who needs to do this him or herself.

Yeah, us! Thanks for this writeup.
__________________
"Let's look Death in the face and say, 'Whatever man.'"
~ Hurley

ingrid
1967 24' Tradewind #19104 ~ Forums #4449
pinkflamingoes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2007, 09:38 PM   #52
3 Rivet Member
 
2333's Avatar
 
1962 24' Tradewind
Rabat , Morocco
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 157
Images: 1
You're Welcome Ingrid!

I have been peeking in on your thread since I joined the forum and now I fear window repair!

I've read and totally understand how lots of people get their trailer gutted and then stop there. I did for 5 months. So, I'm really pushing hard to get past that point. It's like I see the top of the hill now and hope to crest it soon! (I think that point comes when you rivet the shell back on)
__________________
Craig
2333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2007, 09:54 PM   #53
3 Rivet Member
 
2333's Avatar
 
1962 24' Tradewind
Rabat , Morocco
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 157
Images: 1
Moving the trailer around......

Here's how I got the trailer out. I bought a trailer dolly from checker auto (29.99 sale). It's easy to use, would be nicer if it came with a brake because my driveway is not flat.
Anyway, I just pushed it out and pulled it off to the side.
I started unfolding the belly pan from the U-channel at the left front corner and got into it for 10 minutes before it rained. It's alot easier with the shell off.

BTW: My 7 year-old could easily move the trailer around on the flat surfaces with this dolly. Right tool for the right job.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Pushing trailer out.JPG
Views:	116
Size:	90.2 KB
ID:	36716   Click image for larger version

Name:	Keep 'em seperated.JPG
Views:	94
Size:	88.9 KB
ID:	36717  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Belly pan starting to drop.JPG
Views:	96
Size:	109.0 KB
ID:	36718  
__________________
Craig
2333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2007, 10:04 PM   #54
3 Rivet Member
 
2333's Avatar
 
1962 24' Tradewind
Rabat , Morocco
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 157
Images: 1
U-Channel detail

As you unfold the belly pans off the outer lip of the U-Channel, you still have to pry a bit with a screwdriver because quite a few of the rivet stems are still in the hole.

I noticed a few interesting things.
1. The Channel that is around the curves is thick and it's bolted down using semi-substantial bolts. I haven't yet noted if those go only through the wood floor or if they go all the way into the frame underneath.
2. The Channel that is in the straight sections is thin. Appears to only be screwed into the wood floor with 1-inch screws.

The curved sections seem in decent shape so far and I think I can reuse them. When I put the shell back on though, I don't expect the rivet holes to line up and I will likely have to drill new holes.
Does anyone think this will weaken those U-Channels?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	U-Channel detail.JPG
Views:	120
Size:	113.3 KB
ID:	36727  
__________________
Craig
2333 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2007, 12:27 PM   #55
Rivet Master
 
pinkflamingoes's Avatar
 
1967 24' Tradewind
Alameda , California
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,569
Images: 38
Blog Entries: 3
Send a message via AIM to pinkflamingoes Send a message via Yahoo to pinkflamingoes
Yes...

That's good to know, that we're not the only ones who hit a wall at the shell off point...part of our problem is a fallen down fence, which is going to be hopefully finished today. Then we'll have room to do the shell-off.

Don't fear window repair...just fear me doing window repair!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by 2333
You're Welcome Ingrid!

I have been peeking in on your thread since I joined the forum and now I fear window repair!

I've read and totally understand how lots of people get their trailer gutted and then stop there. I did for 5 months. So, I'm really pushing hard to get past that point. It's like I see the top of the hill now and hope to crest it soon! (I think that point comes when you rivet the shell back on)
__________________
"Let's look Death in the face and say, 'Whatever man.'"
~ Hurley

ingrid
1967 24' Tradewind #19104 ~ Forums #4449
pinkflamingoes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2007, 04:46 PM   #56
Rivet Master
 
Aerowood's Avatar

 
1971 21' Globetrotter
Arvada , Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,942
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2333
As you unfold the belly pans off the outer lip of the U-Channel, you still have to pry a bit with a screwdriver because quite a few of the rivet stems are still in the hole.

I noticed a few interesting things.
1. The Channel that is around the curves is thick and it's bolted down using semi-substantial bolts. I haven't yet noted if those go only through the wood floor or if they go all the way into the frame underneath.
2. The Channel that is in the straight sections is thin. Appears to only be screwed into the wood floor with 1-inch screws.

The curved sections seem in decent shape so far and I think I can reuse them. When I put the shell back on though, I don't expect the rivet holes to line up and I will likely have to drill new holes.
Does anyone think this will weaken those U-Channels?
I had no problems lining the old holes up but I clecoed the skin to the channel first and then bolted the channels down second. I think most everybody else did it the other way around. I also added a lot of holes later. My project is also not a complete shell off but more like a half and half. I've already done the back half and am in the process of separating the front now, if the weather cooperates.
__________________

Aerowood is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1962


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1962 24' Oddball? Mark in Modesto 1959-69 Tradewind 36 03-30-2019 07:04 PM
electrical system 67 tradewind boardsander Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 3 10-14-2002 04:32 PM
Oddball '62 Tradewind? Mark in Modesto Airstream Motorhome Forums 0 09-08-2002 08:52 PM
'67 Tradewind owners manual BentEar 1959-69 Tradewind 1 07-21-2002 05:15 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:35 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.