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Old 03-20-2019, 05:04 PM   #113
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Originally Posted by islandtrader View Post
Today I decided to do an easy no brainer project...easy yes, no brainer no, but fun anyway.

I never liked the way airstream chopped up the belt line trim on the earlier models like mine. I plan on running the belt line all the way around. The only hard part is putting the seams where they are the least conspicuous. I will use 3 16' extruded strips. The seams will be in the front and back.

The front is laid out and clecoed...on to the rear on friday.

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Iím guessing youíre planning on pop rivets for attachment? The problem I have is my trim is 1/2Ē from the skin to the face of the trim. So, Iím guessing pop rivets may not come long enough to go through everything and end in the C-channel. Originally AS attached those with steel sheet metal screws. Iíll go back with screws. Maybe stainless sheet metal or 8-32 rivnuts. What do you think? If I didnít already have the original trim and spent time on polishing, I would go your route. Youíre making headway.
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Old 03-21-2019, 06:08 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubba L View Post
Iím guessing youíre planning on pop rivets for attachment? The problem I have is my trim is 1/2Ē from the skin to the face of the trim. So, Iím guessing pop rivets may not come long enough to go through everything and end in the C-channel. Originally AS attached those with steel sheet metal screws. Iíll go back with screws. Maybe stainless sheet metal or 8-32 rivnuts. What do you think? If I didnít already have the original trim and spent time on polishing, I would go your route. Youíre making headway.
Actually I plan to buck rivet them on. So far every hole drilled -1 has been in the c channel and the cleco's go all the way through the trim, outer skin and the belly pan skin. So I think I'm good to go.

This trim piece if I remember correctly is off a 70ish Airstream and is stocked by AS. Being extruded and not stamped like the original piece makes it much thinner. It also has grooves in the edges so if you want you can add vinyl trim.
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Old 03-22-2019, 04:05 PM   #115
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Belt Line

Finished up the belt line. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and since this is a renovation and not a restoration ...I like it.

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Old 03-24-2019, 02:30 PM   #116
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I was hoping not to take out the window frames. Now I am rethinking that decision. It's a lot of work, but... I do not want to regret not having taken that extra step when everything is back together.
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Old 03-28-2019, 06:59 AM   #117
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I was hoping not to take out the window frames. Now I am rethinking that decision. It's a lot of work, but... I do not want to regret not having taken that extra step when everything is back together.
The main problem is you have to be real careful in drilling out the out rivets. If you double drill the hole, then you need backing washers...don't ask me why I know.
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Old 03-28-2019, 08:09 AM   #118
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Luggage Door

My luggage door area was all banged up do to a blow out, so the bottom half channel and the lock area had to be re-built. The pan and cover were so beat up, that I had them fabricated . As the story goes when you start down the slippery slope be careful...LOL. Getting the lock in and making sure the new slot was in the right spot was a challenge, but we got it done.

Just a word of advice...someone once posted DONOT use the old holes on a new piece of aluminum as your pattern.

The pan and the front cover were the exact same size but when I marked the holes using the old cover they did not line up on the new pan. I just used the holes for spacing and then adjusted from there.

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Old 04-09-2019, 03:49 PM   #119
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Some small steps forward

Today water tested the windows...8 out of 9 passed. Number 9 got a A- Easy fix on the way.

Also took care of a problem with the running lights. Over the years the holes have been elongated and a "bigger screw " was not an option. Also I did not want to use nut inserts for too many of my own personal experience working with them.

Solution was to put a patch on them. To keep it clean the patch was on the inside, allowing for new holes to be drilled.

Finally even though it is far from done I put the door on for a trial fit. Installed a temporary door knob that was on there from the PO. I will say one thing, people sure do torture these airstreams. The whole locking area is one mess. I do have the original H20 so I will get that to work as a in and out handle and install a dead bolt where the door knob is now.

Next to do is finish sealing all inside seams and water test.

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Old 04-09-2019, 08:42 PM   #120
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Nice solution to the oversized lamp holes. I also have had issues with nutserts. When they work, they are nice. When they go bad it's a real mess. On the door, the '55 I did was made from 100% formed flat stock, making repairs much easier than cast framed or bent extrusion doors.
Really top shelf work!
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Old 04-11-2019, 07:19 AM   #121
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Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
Nice solution to the oversized lamp holes. I also have had issues with nutserts. When they work, they are nice. When they go bad it's a real mess. On the door, the '55 I did was made from 100% formed flat stock, making repairs much easier than cast framed or bent extrusion doors.
Really top shelf work!
Thanks...as for the nutserts when you have to drill more than 2 holes to line up I never use them...do not ask how I know this...

In this application they worked out great...

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Old 04-14-2019, 03:55 PM   #122
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Change of Plans

Quote:
Originally Posted by islandtrader View Post
Actually I plan to buck rivet them on. So far every hole drilled -1 has been in the c channel and the cleco's go all the way through the trim, outer skin and the belly pan skin. So I think I'm good to go.

This trim piece if I remember correctly is off a 70ish Airstream and is stocked by AS. Being extruded and not stamped like the original piece makes it much thinner. It also has grooves in the edges so if you want you can add vinyl trim.
Originally I thought of bucking in the trim pieces ...but after giving it some thought. Screws were the answer. I wanted to use aluminum so there would be no corrosion factor. Found some antique ones on ebay that were pan head slotted. Perfect for the look.

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Old 04-20-2019, 03:34 PM   #123
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Final water check

Today my wife and I did the seams and window air check for water leaks . I am sure there are a lot of ways to do this, but this is what we did.

She was on the outside spraying down every seam and rivet with soapy water. I was in side the trailer with a compressed air sprayer. Following along were she was doing her thing. Every time she saw bubbles I marked the inside with tape. Afterward I went back and/or use tempro or flex seal on the areas that showed some leakage.

Waiting for the wire to show up so I can start a new phase...

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Old 04-20-2019, 04:44 PM   #124
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I admire you for doing this and hope to see it one day. I can't even begin to fathom the work involved. It's great you can both work together on It!
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Old 04-30-2019, 09:04 PM   #125
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Door Lock My way

When I bought the Airstream the H20 was not installed. However it was in the trailer drawer. After doing some searches I saw that the door was missing the wood block that held the housing...I also saw in some posts how folks built a alum square frame. I did not like the wood idea,and did not have any sq. Tube laying around. So I bent a u bracket like you see holding boat gauges..simple and it works👍
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Old 04-30-2019, 09:08 PM   #126
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Door Escutcheon...my way

When I bought the Airstream the H20 was not installed. However it was in the trailer drawer. After doing some searches I saw that the door was missing the wood block that held the housing...I also saw in some posts how folks built a alum square frame. I did not like the wood idea,and did not have any sq. Tube laying around. So I bent a u bracket like you see holding boat gauges..simple and it works👍
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