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Old 01-22-2018, 08:06 AM   #43
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1956 22' Caravanner
Don Pedro Island , Florida
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Little by little

I am going to call this lesson learned. First of all I am sure happy to have the set up I have. I can pull or put the shell on the frame anytime I need to check the fit. For me this has been a godsend. For some reason I did not cut the floor around the wheel wells correctly and the wheel well was not fitting. I know why that happened. So now I made the correction. I also cut in the holes for the waste tanks, and used my 2 new Christmas presents. I LOVE new tools...

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Old 01-25-2018, 04:42 PM   #44
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Really?

Ok I am going to call this lesson learned #2...never ASSUME anything on a vintage airstream is a mirror image if there are 2 of them...

I posted pictures of my new wheel wells... I only had one wheel well to work with because the street side one was demolished in a blow out. The curbside looked just like the the other side...oh how wrong I was. The picture shows how much difference there is between the two. I have some trimming to do. You would think they were mirror images, but they are not...does someone want to chime in and hazard a guess.

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Old 01-25-2018, 05:28 PM   #45
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
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My wheel wells were off, but not that far. There’s no telling why there’s such a difference. I guess as long as you put everything back and it works, that’s a plus. Decades from now when the next owner gets it, he’ll wonder the same. Also, I have enough lessons learned I could write a book. I don’t keep count, just try not to make the same mistake three times. Everything is looking great. Keep up the good work. Bubba
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Old 01-25-2018, 06:36 PM   #46
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This trailer is a "hand-crafted beauty," that's why. Great job, much better to have too much aluminum than not enough.
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Old 01-25-2018, 06:58 PM   #47
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It's a great way to avoid the, "I trimmed this thing THREE times and its STILL too darn small..." syndrome.

Don't ask me why I know this one entirely too well.....
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Old 01-29-2018, 04:36 PM   #48
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Shame on me!

Boy this is really dumb...the worst part is I really did not even know that I did it I was trimming out my vent hole that was a little to small and I did not even feel the extra board.
Oh well at least the fix was easy...

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Old 01-30-2018, 04:21 PM   #49
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Under Floor Plumbing

Hey Islandtrader, this is what's going on underneath the floor of my bathroom. Raising the floor with 3 layers of 3/4" plywood over the 3/4" subfloor is the key to making it work. It all just barely fits
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Old 01-31-2018, 07:47 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDickey View Post
Hey Islandtrader, this is what's going on underneath the floor of my bathroom. Raising the floor with 3 layers of 3/4" plywood over the 3/4" subfloor is the key to making it work. It all just barely fits
Thanks this helps a lot...I am guessing that where the pipes are for the shower you hollowed out the floor there.
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Old 02-01-2018, 08:19 AM   #51
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Here's another picture

Quote:
Originally Posted by islandtrader View Post
Thanks this helps a lot...I am guessing that where the pipes are for the shower you hollowed out the floor there.
Yes, for the shower drain I had to hollow out the subfloor for the trap and cut the first two layers of plywood around the pipe. The third layer fit over the assembly and became the new subfloor.

The toilet flange was a little different because I dropped it in once the floor and the pan was done. I cut the first two layers 1" in diameter larger than necessary, then cut the top precisely once the floor was down, then dropped the shower pan and the flange in, and screwed the flange down with stainless steel screws. I couldn't use the tank's rubber gasket with the offset toilet flange, but the flange fit nicely down into the tank, the hole being about 1/2" in diameter larger than the flange. I then sealed the space between the tank and the flange with polyurethane and filled the entire space between the flange and the plywood with polyurethane. The assembly will require caulk around the toilet to ensure that water doesn't seep under it and rot the plywood. Other than that, it should be a good assembly
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Old 02-03-2018, 07:59 AM   #52
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1956 22' Caravanner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by islandtrader View Post
I am going to call this lesson learned. First of all I am sure happy to have the set up I have. I can pull or put the shell on the frame anytime I need to check the fit. For me this has been a godsend. For some reason I did not cut the floor around the wheel wells correctly and the wheel well was not fitting. I know why that happened. So now I made the correction
I forgot to give my reason...again I should know better...the reason for not fitting correctly is when I cut the boards the frame was not level....the A** end of this thing hangs down about an inch or better... now every time I work on the frame it is level and blocked up in the back...hope this helps anyone who is stupid enough to go this route ...haha

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Old 02-07-2018, 12:43 PM   #53
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Valterra Connection

Ok I need some help here... I am trying to connect a Valterra dump to my waste tanks. The problem right now is that the waste tank fitting is 3.5 inch thin wall pipe. So the tank and the valterra flange are same size. You can insert a PVC 3 inch pipe into the waste tank (I would use abs) and that would fit into the valterra valve fitting. Is this the way to go?? Or should I use a rubber coupling instead of a 3 inch abs pipe. (Also posted in general repair forum)

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Old 02-09-2018, 09:00 AM   #54
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Attachment...body to frame

I saw this was posted some time ago and it seemed like a easy solution to attaching the body ribs to the frame. So this is my rendition of how I am doing it.

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If you do not rout it out...it will not sit flush. After routing a little epoxy and then paint.
Now the angle can be inserted into the channel...
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Old 02-11-2018, 08:19 AM   #55
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I really like the idea of using captive nut plates for the ribs. I will do this.

Couple of things I am wondering about;

Why did you need to route the floor? Is it to clear the tangs of the nut plate?

And why did you feel you needed to add the L-bracket? I would be tempted to just use stainless steel bolts and fender washers.

Thanks, Mark
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Old 02-12-2018, 08:22 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steinVT View Post
I really like the idea of using captive nut plates for the ribs. I will do this.

Couple of things I am wondering about;

Why did you need to route the floor? Is it to clear the tangs of the nut plate?

And why did you feel you needed to add the L-bracket? I would be tempted to just use stainless steel bolts and fender washers.

Thanks, Mark
To answer your questions...Routing was necessary so the sub floor would sit flush to the out riggers...if you look at the picture real good you will see that the floor is not flush..this is an easy job.

The L bracket attaches to the rib of the shell...this is then ties it to nut plate. With washers a ss bolt there is no way to tie the rib to the frame.

I guess my thought process is this...if all the rivets failed that were connected to the c channel and all the screws pulled out of the c channel ...the body would still be tied into the frame and it can not come off. Make any sense...LOL

Hope this helps.
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