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Old 05-15-2007, 05:47 PM   #99
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I purchased a Shurflow vent fan over the fantastic fan. The platinum edition fan had more bells and whistles than the fantastic fan, and was only $259.00.

I am going out to the RV to remove the Bathroom wall to expidite installation.

Ted, The shop is going to do it tomorrow, and is not keeping the RV. That is why I am going to him. The soonest anyone around here could help me was mid June! This guy is a bit in the rural areas, so his prices are great. Hooked up my Tekonsha prodigy for $20.00.

I am thinking about removing my entire door gasket (Since it isnt working very well) and using a temporary fix from Walmart with a D-Gasket. Luckily the door has a dead bolt, and won't be flying open with a larger gasket in place for the temp fix.

Steve
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Old 05-15-2007, 06:05 PM   #100
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Steve,

Hang on to that old vent. If you ever sell the next owner may want it.
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Old 05-15-2007, 06:51 PM   #101
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I know it's been quite a few posts since this one:
Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic
If possible, I would like to bypass the tote, and have my grey water go directly into the sewer hole. I would just need to find a valterra fitting that fits my PVC pipe. Then I can hook the grey outlet directly to the sewer. The hose can do double duty and be used for the black tank when we are on the way out.
But, one thing you can do is use what we affectionately call a "Y-thingie" to hook-up both your black and grey to the sewer/dump.


(or two trailers to one hook-up as shown above)

*** Extra Bonus *** It can also be used as a can holder for the happy hour crowd!


(if you attended the RMVAC 2003 Rally, this makes perfect sense!)

Shari
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Old 05-15-2007, 07:01 PM   #102
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Shari,

The grey water exit from the sink and shower is a threaded piece of 1.5 inch PVC. I found a nice valterra fitting for $3.00 that screws onto the PVC and allows the attachment of a garden hose to get to the sewer station.

Let's hope the beer was in there before you dumped

I am going to fire up the kerosene heater and try to dry the leather out in the trailer tonight.

Steve
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Old 05-15-2007, 07:03 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic
The grey water exit from the sink and shower is a threaded piece of 1.5 inch PVC.
Sorry, I missed that part...oh well ~

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Old 05-15-2007, 11:16 PM   #104
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Door Bending and sealing seams

Due to my door being out of shape, it has been suggested by a few people to bend the door bak into its original shape. Has anyone done this with much success?

I saw on Safari Tim's blog that he attempted it, but it was without success. Also, the hinges for this thing have about 20 rivets each in them, so what size were they using back then? Since the door must come out, should this project be done sooner vs later?

The seams on my trailer were sealed when it was in the refurbishing process. The PO had it polished at the end of the project, and it has been stated that this may have caused the leaks I now have in my front and rear window. I was also looking at the gaskets for the window and noticed alot of moisture in the corners inside. Wonder if the gaskets are old and hard, and are letting moisture in like that.

Hopefully I will have some progress tomorrow as the new vent goes in and is sealed (Don't how long it took to remove the bathroom wall and fixtures)

Steve
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Old 05-16-2007, 01:12 PM   #105
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Took the coach on a 2 hour haul to the RV shop in Rolla, MO. I began shaving off rivets on the Hehr vent while the shop owner started jacking the wheel for running a brake line. He called me over and showed me that the wheel on the streetside would not turn freely like on the curbside. He said that it felt like the brake was engaged, or that there was a brake part loose that was restricting the wheel movement. I suppose I should feel luck considering that it towed from Michigan with no problems. I decided to leave the coach with him since I have to pass his shop to go back to base. While at his shop we will fix that wheel/brake, wire my trailer brakes, install a 30 Amp pigtail so I am not limited to 15 Amp service, install the Shurflo vent, install a break away switch, try to bend the door back into curved shape so it seals, weld on safety chains, rebuild my coupler latch, and plans to run some extra sealant around my solar domes, and windows if he can find the extra time.

Considering he charged me $63.00 for installing a prodigy brake control and transmission cooler (Including 2 quarts of tranmission fluid and a new hose), I will probably pay less than my Airstream dealer who would only say they would charge time and materiels (Likely 4 hours they said since my coach is "Vintage" and hard to work on).

Time will tell, and I will get my coach back next Monday.

Steve
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Old 05-16-2007, 01:44 PM   #106
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Steve -- good to see you're getting good attention for the running gear.
Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic
Another issue is the door's rain cap. The PO put a new door gasket on and it seals on the rearward part of the door, but once it hits the beginning of the curve you can see day light the rest of the curve and all the way down the frontside of the door.
Replacing gaskets is one thing but dealing with a sprung door is altogether different. A good door's gaskets should hold a dollar bill all the way around the perimeter when the door is latched properly. I saw this issue above and knew there were some valuable links. You can not bend the door back to shape. Before I can sell my old Argosy I have to repair its door too. We need a door owners support group.

See:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...oor-26820.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...off-18134.html
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Old 05-16-2007, 01:54 PM   #107
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... and by the way. Seeing that one thread started by Safari Tim reminds me. Are you listening to Home - theVAP - The Vintage Airstream Podcast yet? It is a good source of support and reinforcement for vintage owners. I listen to a podcast every time I'm on the road!
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Old 05-18-2007, 02:41 PM   #108
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Keep in mind Steve that by just adding a 30 amp socket doesn't allow you to use 30 amp service. You will need to separate the circuits in the entrance box to suit the air conditioner along with the other loads within the trailer. We typically determine the electrical system design before we reinstall walls in a restoration. You may end up running a few wires along the interior walls to create a viable electrical system.
Also adding a roof vent fan is usually done before interior painting in order to have a cleaner look on the trim when finished.
Modern 12" diameter backing plates can be used with your vintage axle & drums. You will need to do a bit of grinding on the edge of the backing plate if there is any interference.
I spoke about our Sealtech 430R leak detection device on another thread yesterday. You might want to find someone local with one of these so you don't keep just adding goop to the exterior in the hope of stopping the leaks. Your windows are Hehr Standard model windows. The gaskets in all of these windows dry out & crack over time. The windows need to be removed from the trailer in order to replace these gaskets. This should have been done early on in the restoration as well. The inner & outer gaskets are available through Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies! .
The door curvature is another good one. We have been fortunate at times to recurve the door by sticking a 2X4 between the door & the frame near the striker & get someone to push in at the top & the bottom of the door at the same time. On other occaisons we needed to remove the inside skin of the door in order to let it bend back easier. It's never easy though.
Good luck with your battle,
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Old 05-18-2007, 05:22 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin H
Keep in mind Steve that by just adding a 30 amp socket doesn't allow you to use 30 amp service. You will need to separate the circuits in the entrance box to suit the air conditioner along with the other loads within the trailer. We typically determine the electrical system design before we reinstall walls in a restoration. You may end up running a few wires along the interior walls to create a viable electrical system.
Colin, there are 4 separate 15 Amp circuits in my trailer that David Winick put in. One is for the hot water heater, another of the two 110v cicuits, and one is left as a pigtail at the ceiling in case I wanted to add AC in the future

Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin H
Also adding a roof vent fan is usually done before interior painting in order to have a cleaner look on the trim when finished.
Modern 12" diameter backing plates can be used with your vintage axle & drums. You will need to do a bit of grinding on the edge of the backing plate if there is any interference.
I have a can of the interior pain used, so painting in the few spots needed from a new vent install won't be so bad. The RV shop it is at is taking care of the brakes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin H
I spoke about our Sealtech 430R leak detection device on another thread yesterday. You might want to find someone local with one of these so you don't keep just adding goop to the exterior in the hope of stopping the leaks.
I plan to use my high power leaf blower on a hose into a vent to attempt this like others. Then soap up the outside and find other leaks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin H
Your windows are Hehr Standard model windows. The gaskets in all of these windows dry out & crack over time. The windows need to be removed from the trailer in order to replace these gaskets. This should have been done early on in the restoration as well. The inner & outer gaskets are available through Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies! .
I was told by the PO that all the windows were removed, resealed, etc with all new parts per factory standard and reinstalled. I do not know why they are leaking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin H
The door curvature is another good one. We have been fortunate at times to recurve the door by sticking a 2X4 between the door & the frame near the striker & get someone to push in at the top & the bottom of the door at the same time. On other occaisons we needed to remove the inside skin of the door in order to let it bend back easier. It's never easy though.
The door is likely my largest issues since I can see a good amount of daylight through it. It won't be a huge leak problem with the awning on since the door will be covered and protected. The shop is attempting the fix on it, but if not I will need to locate assistance in doing the repair since I only have strength in one arm after consecutive surgeries.

Thanks for the input. I think resealing the endcaps will provide a big help in the entire scheme of things.

Steve
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Old 05-19-2007, 05:21 AM   #110
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Door Curvature

Steve
Really didn't want to say that, but part of dealer prep is straightening the doors to pass the dollar bill test. This is done by placing 2X4s in the door where it is touching and pushing on the door where it is not touching. Be careful.
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Old 05-22-2007, 11:14 AM   #111
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News I don't like

I called the RV shop today to make sure my trailer would be ready to pick up tomorrow. I had planned on camping Friday and Saturday since I have to work on Sunday. The shop let me know a few things.

As I have said before, the streetside wheel wasn't turning on its own. When he took the baby moon off there were only three lug nuts remaining of the six. The remainding three were broken off when they were removed. Once the wheel was off, he could see that the brake shoes were just haning around on the innards of the wheel. All the springs were missing. For the last three days he has called to find replacement parts for these springs, and has been unsuccessful. He also hasn;t had luck finding replacement brakes for this axel. The shop suggested getting a new Dexter Axel complete with brakes to solve the issue. He did order a new hub so I could mount a wheel back on the trailer, but I won't have brakes. Anyone have a suggestion for this?

As for the other work that was to be done, the 30 Amp pigtail was wired, and the vent fan installed. The shop is also sealing around the windows. They didn't wire a brake line or break away switch since there is only one wheel with a brake on it. The coupler is unable to be rebuilt so I am going to have the old coupler cut off, and a new coupler welded on.

I really thought that I had found a great trailer that was ready to go. I will have several thousand more into this just to have it safely road ready.

Live and Learn.
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Old 05-22-2007, 12:37 PM   #112
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I had a similar problem with my 1954 Liner. I ordered fully loaded backing plates, but they would not fit inside the old drums. I ended up purchasing two new axles, springs and hardware. Total cost shipped from Axis in Indiania to Tampa was about $600. I purchased galvanized axles and safe-T-Lube bearings but brakes on only one axle since I will put discs on.

This probably would be the best for you also, since it would give you new style brakes which can be repaired/replaced anywhere.

Bill
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