Introducing our new '56 Caravanner

[InsideOut]

I know it's been quite a few posts since this one:

Originally Posted by soldiermedic

If possible, I would like to bypass the tote, and have my grey water go directly into the sewer hole. I would just need to find a valterra fitting that fits my PVC pipe. Then I can hook the grey outlet directly to the sewer. The hose can do double duty and be used for the black tank when we are on the way out.

But, one thing you can do is use what we affectionately call a "Y-thingie" to hook-up both your black and grey to the sewer/dump.


(or two trailers to one hook-up as shown above)

*** Extra Bonus *** It can also be used as a can holder for the happy hour crowd!


(if you attended the RMVAC 2003 Rally, this makes perfect sense!)

Shari

[soldiermedic]

Shari,

The grey water exit from the sink and shower is a threaded piece of 1.5 inch PVC. I found a nice valterra fitting for $3.00 that screws onto the PVC and allows the attachment of a garden hose to get to the sewer station.

Let's hope the beer was in there before you dumped

I am going to fire up the kerosene heater and try to dry the leather out in the trailer tonight.

Steve

[InsideOut]

Originally Posted by soldiermedic

The grey water exit from the sink and shower is a threaded piece of 1.5 inch PVC.

Sorry, I missed that part...oh well ~

Shari

[soldiermedic]

Due to my door being out of shape, it has been suggested by a few people to bend the door bak into its original shape. Has anyone done this with much success?

I saw on Safari Tim's blog that he attempted it, but it was without success. Also, the hinges for this thing have about 20 rivets each in them, so what size were they using back then? Since the door must come out, should this project be done sooner vs later?

The seams on my trailer were sealed when it was in the refurbishing process. The PO had it polished at the end of the project, and it has been stated that this may have caused the leaks I now have in my front and rear window. I was also looking at the gaskets for the window and noticed alot of moisture in the corners inside. Wonder if the gaskets are old and hard, and are letting moisture in like that.

Hopefully I will have some progress tomorrow as the new vent goes in and is sealed (Don't how long it took to remove the bathroom wall and fixtures)

Steve

[soldiermedic]

Took the coach on a 2 hour haul to the RV shop in Rolla, MO. I began shaving off rivets on the Hehr vent while the shop owner started jacking the wheel for running a brake line. He called me over and showed me that the wheel on the streetside would not turn freely like on the curbside. He said that it felt like the brake was engaged, or that there was a brake part loose that was restricting the wheel movement. I suppose I should feel luck considering that it towed from Michigan with no problems. I decided to leave the coach with him since I have to pass his shop to go back to base. While at his shop we will fix that wheel/brake, wire my trailer brakes, install a 30 Amp pigtail so I am not limited to 15 Amp service, install the Shurflo vent, install a break away switch, try to bend the door back into curved shape so it seals, weld on safety chains, rebuild my coupler latch, and plans to run some extra sealant around my solar domes, and windows if he can find the extra time.

Considering he charged me $63.00 for installing a prodigy brake control and transmission cooler (Including 2 quarts of tranmission fluid and a new hose), I will probably pay less than my Airstream dealer who would only say they would charge time and materiels (Likely 4 hours they said since my coach is "Vintage" and hard to work on).

Time will tell, and I will get my coach back next Monday.

Steve

[CanoeStream]

Steve -- good to see you're getting good attention for the running gear.

Originally Posted by soldiermedic

Another issue is the door's rain cap. The PO put a new door gasket on and it seals on the rearward part of the door, but once it hits the beginning of the curve you can see day light the rest of the curve and all the way down the frontside of the door.

Replacing gaskets is one thing but dealing with a sprung door is altogether different. A good door's gaskets should hold a dollar bill all the way around the perimeter when the door is latched properly. I saw this issue above and knew there were some valuable links. You can not bend the door back to shape. Before I can sell my old Argosy I have to repair its door too. We need a door owners support group.

See:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...oor-26820.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...off-18134.html

[CanoeStream]

... and by the way. Seeing that one thread started by Safari Tim reminds me. Are you listening to Home - theVAP - The Vintage Airstream Podcast yet? It is a good source of support and reinforcement for vintage owners. I listen to a podcast every time I'm on the road!

[Colin H]

Keep in mind Steve that by just adding a 30 amp socket doesn't allow you to use 30 amp service. You will need to separate the circuits in the entrance box to suit the air conditioner along with the other loads within the trailer. We typically determine the electrical system design before we reinstall walls in a restoration. You may end up running a few wires along the interior walls to create a viable electrical system.
Also adding a roof vent fan is usually done before interior painting in order to have a cleaner look on the trim when finished.
Modern 12" diameter backing plates can be used with your vintage axle & drums. You will need to do a bit of grinding on the edge of the backing plate if there is any interference.
I spoke about our Sealtech 430R leak detection device on another thread yesterday. You might want to find someone local with one of these so you don't keep just adding goop to the exterior in the hope of stopping the leaks. Your windows are Hehr Standard model windows. The gaskets in all of these windows dry out & crack over time. The windows need to be removed from the trailer in order to replace these gaskets. This should have been done early on in the restoration as well. The inner & outer gaskets are available through Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies! .
The door curvature is another good one. We have been fortunate at times to recurve the door by sticking a 2X4 between the door & the frame near the striker & get someone to push in at the top & the bottom of the door at the same time. On other occaisons we needed to remove the inside skin of the door in order to let it bend back easier. It's never easy though.
Good luck with your battle,
Colin
Home - theVAP - The Vintage Airstream Podcast

[soldiermedic]

Originally Posted by Colin H

Keep in mind Steve that by just adding a 30 amp socket doesn't allow you to use 30 amp service. You will need to separate the circuits in the entrance box to suit the air conditioner along with the other loads within the trailer. We typically determine the electrical system design before we reinstall walls in a restoration. You may end up running a few wires along the interior walls to create a viable electrical system.

Colin, there are 4 separate 15 Amp circuits in my trailer that David Winick put in. One is for the hot water heater, another of the two 110v cicuits, and one is left as a pigtail at the ceiling in case I wanted to add AC in the future

Originally Posted by Colin H

Also adding a roof vent fan is usually done before interior painting in order to have a cleaner look on the trim when finished.
Modern 12" diameter backing plates can be used with your vintage axle & drums. You will need to do a bit of grinding on the edge of the backing plate if there is any interference.

I have a can of the interior pain used, so painting in the few spots needed from a new vent install won't be so bad. The RV shop it is at is taking care of the brakes.

Originally Posted by Colin H

I spoke about our Sealtech 430R leak detection device on another thread yesterday. You might want to find someone local with one of these so you don't keep just adding goop to the exterior in the hope of stopping the leaks.

I plan to use my high power leaf blower on a hose into a vent to attempt this like others. Then soap up the outside and find other leaks.

Originally Posted by Colin H

Your windows are Hehr Standard model windows. The gaskets in all of these windows dry out & crack over time. The windows need to be removed from the trailer in order to replace these gaskets. This should have been done early on in the restoration as well. The inner & outer gaskets are available through Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies! .

I was told by the PO that all the windows were removed, resealed, etc with all new parts per factory standard and reinstalled. I do not know why they are leaking.

Originally Posted by Colin H

The door curvature is another good one. We have been fortunate at times to recurve the door by sticking a 2X4 between the door & the frame near the striker & get someone to push in at the top & the bottom of the door at the same time. On other occaisons we needed to remove the inside skin of the door in order to let it bend back easier. It's never easy though.

The door is likely my largest issues since I can see a good amount of daylight through it. It won't be a huge leak problem with the awning on since the door will be covered and protected. The shop is attempting the fix on it, but if not I will need to locate assistance in doing the repair since I only have strength in one arm after consecutive surgeries.

Thanks for the input. I think resealing the endcaps will provide a big help in the entire scheme of things.

Steve

[Beginner]

Steve
Really didn't want to say that, but part of dealer prep is straightening the doors to pass the dollar bill test. This is done by placing 2X4s in the door where it is touching and pushing on the door where it is not touching. Be careful.
Beginner

[soldiermedic]

I called the RV shop today to make sure my trailer would be ready to pick up tomorrow. I had planned on camping Friday and Saturday since I have to work on Sunday. The shop let me know a few things.

As I have said before, the streetside wheel wasn't turning on its own. When he took the baby moon off there were only three lug nuts remaining of the six. The remainding three were broken off when they were removed. Once the wheel was off, he could see that the brake shoes were just haning around on the innards of the wheel. All the springs were missing. For the last three days he has called to find replacement parts for these springs, and has been unsuccessful. He also hasn;t had luck finding replacement brakes for this axel. The shop suggested getting a new Dexter Axel complete with brakes to solve the issue. He did order a new hub so I could mount a wheel back on the trailer, but I won't have brakes. Anyone have a suggestion for this?

As for the other work that was to be done, the 30 Amp pigtail was wired, and the vent fan installed. The shop is also sealing around the windows. They didn't wire a brake line or break away switch since there is only one wheel with a brake on it. The coupler is unable to be rebuilt so I am going to have the old coupler cut off, and a new coupler welded on.

I really thought that I had found a great trailer that was ready to go. I will have several thousand more into this just to have it safely road ready.

Live and Learn.

[wkerfoot]

I had a similar problem with my 1954 Liner. I ordered fully loaded backing plates, but they would not fit inside the old drums. I ended up purchasing two new axles, springs and hardware. Total cost shipped from Axis in Indiania to Tampa was about $600. I purchased galvanized axles and safe-T-Lube bearings but brakes on only one axle since I will put discs on.

This probably would be the best for you also, since it would give you new style brakes which can be repaired/replaced anywhere.

Bill

[Safari Tim]

Steve,

I'm comparing this post with the #1 post in this thread. I'm feeling bad for your expectations right now.

I don't know how this trailer was represented but is it possible to go back to the seller to help resolve these safety issues?

Originally Posted by soldiermedic

I called the RV shop today to make sure my trailer would be ready to pick up tomorrow. I had planned on camping Friday and Saturday since I have to work on Sunday. The shop let me know a few things.

As I have said before, the streetside wheel wasn't turning on its own. When he took the baby moon off there were only three lug nuts remaining of the six. The remainding three were broken off when they were removed. Once the wheel was off, he could see that the brake shoes were just haning around on the innards of the wheel. All the springs were missing. For the last three days he has called to find replacement parts for these springs, and has been unsuccessful. He also hasn;t had luck finding replacement brakes for this axel. The shop suggested getting a new Dexter Axel complete with brakes to solve the issue. He did order a new hub so I could mount a wheel back on the trailer, but I won't have brakes. Anyone have a suggestion for this?

As for the other work that was to be done, the 30 Amp pigtail was wired, and the vent fan installed. The shop is also sealing around the windows. They didn't wire a brake line or break away switch since there is only one wheel with a brake on it. The coupler is unable to be rebuilt so I am going to have the old coupler cut off, and a new coupler welded on.

I really thought that I had found a great trailer that was ready to go. I will have several thousand more into this just to have it safely road ready.

Live and Learn.

[soldiermedic]

Tim,

The sale of the item was AS/IS, and even though the seller is appologizing, he isn't liable for anything since it is sold. I am doing my best to make the most of this situation, and fix all the safety concerns I have.

The new axle looks like it will be $350-$400 for a new dexter axle with full brakes. That sounds like a good deal to me considering it would be similar in cost to just add brakes to a current trailer when you consider the cost of labor to install brakes.

Steve

[wkerfoot]

Originally Posted by soldiermedic

Tim,

The sale of the item was AS/IS, and even though the seller is appologizing, he isn't liable for anything since it is sold. I am doing my best to make the most of this situation, and fix all the safety concerns I have.

The new axle looks like it will be $350-$400 for a new dexter axle with full brakes. That sounds like a good deal to me considering it would be similar in cost to just add brakes to a current trailer when you consider the cost of labor to install brakes.

Steve

Steve,

Is that installed? I would seriously consider new springs also, unless you are converting to a torsion axle.

Bill

[47WeeWind]

Steve:

That original axle is 51 years old. It has worked long and hard and now deserves a retirement. A brand new leaf sprung axle should last another 50 years and will be a superb investment in trailer enjoyment, safety and longevity. Buy a new axle with brand new brakes and don't look back. If you want to raise the trailer a bit for back road exploring, buy a straight (as opposed to drop center) axle. See you down the road!

[soldiermedic]

The price is not installed, but the shop told me he would chage only an hour and a half to install the new axle. Nice guy doing all the work at a good rate (If anyone is in Missouri I highly recommend him).

The price is also not including new springs. My springs look to be in very good condition.

Steve

[3Ms75Argosy]

Steve, I feel your pain. However, look on the bright side - ANY old trailer would probably require a new axle (heck, even some 80's trailers need them) and coupler. You will have the best looking, SAFE trailer out there. Really, it will be a new trailer when completely done.
Don't let one w/e spoil it - It'll be worth it in the end!
Marc

[soldiermedic]

I received my sign from Devoman today. Looks rather nice I think.

Spoke with the RV shop today. The hub that they ordered for me before knowing I wanted a new axle showed up and the company wanted $157.00 for it. This was a far cry from the $30.00 I was told it was going to cost. The RV shop told UPS he wouldn't sign for it, and sent it back. Dexter called back and stated that a new complete axle would be $350.00 so I feel alright about doing the change out. A new Attwood 2" A frame coupler also went on today.

The axle arrives on June 1st, and Morraine View is the 8th. I hope he doesn't have any mix ups in getting that axle installed so I can make the rally in time.

[yukionna]

Originally Posted by soldiermedic

I received my sign from Devoman today. Looks rather nice I think.

I agree...very nice job! What is it made out of? Just curious if it is an indoor-only sign or if it is made out of something that can withstand the environmental elements outdoors!