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Old 08-04-2009, 08:36 PM   #71
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Looks better than new! Actually, you might not need the topcoat since the POR15 will be hidden from UV... the directions say to try to coat it as it drys to "tacky".. so it will stay on better. I don't have that much time in the day.. so I'm just leaving my POR 15 as is.

That endcap looks shiney too!

Glad you had some therapy time..
Best!
Marc
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Old 08-04-2009, 08:40 PM   #72
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Lookin good Steve.
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:19 PM   #73
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Thanks, everybody.

Do you guys think I can still use the Stirling Silver over the POR 15 after an overnight dry or am I going to need to get a can of their etching primer first? I was hoping I could get the silver on today as well, but I just flat ran out of time. Hate to have to wait for a can of that primer to get here from VTS. I'm just planning on the Silver for the visible stuff, coupler, bumper, steps.

BTW I used one quart of gray and one quart of black POR 15 for my 22' frame. It was enough, but I sure didn't have any extra left over, either. Do have some extra metal in my frame and the brackets for the tanks and stuff, however.

cheers,
steve
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Old 08-05-2009, 07:42 AM   #74
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Looks great. When I spoke with the POR guys about applying a coat a day later I was told it was a no. I've left mine in marine grey and it has sure aged fast where it's exposed but I quite like the "vintage" look.
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:27 AM   #75
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Looks great. When I spoke with the POR guys about applying a coat a day later I was told it was a no. I've left mine in marine grey and it has sure aged fast where it's exposed but I quite like the "vintage" look.
Thanks, Truck. I think I'll break down and get their etching primer and prep it correctly before I do the silver. No point in doing it the wrong way. Stuff is too expensive not to put on correctly.

I was disappointed I didn't get the silver on yesterday and thinking I'd be delayed a week or so waiting for that little can of primer to show up from VTS, but I realize this morning that it won't really slow me down. I can go ahead and start putting subfloor in as most of it won't be over areas that will have the silver top coat anyway.

I will be wearing several patches of gray and black POR 15 on my arms for awhile. Thought I was in pretty good shape, but it went through my coveralls and marked me. They're really not bad colors. . .

cheers,
steve
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Old 08-12-2009, 08:19 PM   #76
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The start of the new subfloor

My Chevy Tracker is not the greatest vehicle for hauling plywood, but my buddy Darrell offered to make a plywood run with me on Monday to pick it up. Really hoped to be able to go see the trailers at the rally at Deming that day, but just couldn't pass up the offer of a big truck on a day that I had respite care in for Pam. I've got to cut and fit a bit to get over the area where I've added mounts for my tanks, so I got a little extra, 6 sheets of 3/4" ACX and also tempted myself for the future with 2 sheets of 1/8" Baltic Birch and it is lovely stuff.

I went with ACX instead of marine since I knew I'd be coating both sides with epoxy. After cutting the plywood, I put a small bullnose on the edge with a router. I'm also going to wrap 6" of fiberglass cloth over the edge in an attempt to seal the edge of the subfloor a little better. I ordered a few yards of this stuff from Aircraft Spruce RUTAN FIBERGLASS CLOTHS from Aircraft Spruce the Bi directional Rutan cloth that Pam and I had used years ago when we built our little homebuilt airplane, a Long EZ. This cloth is really good at going around corners but it's a little tricky too as it distorts easily. I cut the cloth on a 45 degree angle in 6" widths and used System Three epoxy. The lighter colored strip in the pics is dacron peel ply that smooths the ragged edge of the cloth and also lets me add the layup on top later without having to sand the edge.

I coated the bottom of the plywood full width and will later do the same to the topside. I'm planning a layer of cloth on the subfloor inside all the cabinets, all the areas that won't be covered by my finish flooring, likely bamboo from what I've seen so far.

Just done the rearmost piece so far. I made templates out of cardboard before I ripped the original floor out and gave myself about a 1/4" of wiggle room for getting it in. My templates are the same, front and rear, so at least on my trailer, the curve is the same on both ends.

Since I ran out of time before I got the Stirling Silver over my POR-15, I ordered the self etching primer from Vintage Trailer Supply and it arrived today, so I also got the rear bumper painted. It went on OK, not as nice as the way POR-15 flowed, but ok. Tomorrow I've got to get the glass in the last two windows, frames are polished already, and get the windows back in. Rain is in the forecast and I don't want to be getting my new subfloor wet already.

cheers,
steve
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:53 PM   #77
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Looking more than great. I haven't done anything to my windows yet and wanted to ask whether you took yours out to clean and polish them? Short of dragging the whole caboodle to a soda blaster I can't think of an expedient plan to get the grime and corrosion of them.
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Old 08-12-2009, 10:27 PM   #78
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I decided to do mine in two stages, William. Figured I'd run out of time before rainy weather hit again if I drilled out all the rivets out on the backframes and pulled them all out. Plan on doing all the backframes next summer.

Mine are the old Hehr standards, 9 of them on a Caravanner, and they aren't hard to do, but they take an unbelieveable amount of time. I've done new glass, clean, and polish on all 9 of the window fronts now, well except for the two that still need the glass dropped in, but that's quick. My windows were even in really good condition, only really mucky on the bottom where the wet stuff collected. I used a wire brush in my drill, some sanding wheels in same, and worked up through various grades of sandpaper up to 400 and then used the compounder. I'm happy with them, they shine, not like the skin on the trailer, but have a nice sheen.

I'd do them again the same way, by hand. Not sure about yours, but the Hehr standards are hard to find, so I was always conscious of breaking the things while I was working on them. I'd guess a soda blaster might be ok, particularly if your were really crummy, but I don't have any experience with them.

cheers,
steve
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Old 08-12-2009, 10:50 PM   #79
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Thanks Steve, I think I'll have to go with a two stage approach too.
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Old 08-14-2009, 05:47 PM   #80
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Got the last two windows slid back in their hangers today, so all 9 windows have been redone with new glass in all of them. Didn't have a lot of time, figured I'd regret trying to get that first piece of floor back in now instead of waiting for another day when I had more time. Couldn't stop myself.

Used the same method for supporting the shell that I used while painting. Put a floor jack under a vertical 2x4 with a radiused T on top and jacked it up until the back end of the shell lifted up. I'm planning to use a biscuit joiner and a plywood doubler at most of my seams and a few of those seams are dictated by the mounts for my tanks. Because of this, the first piece for the rear worked out to 37", so I didn't have to put in a completely full sheet.

Popped right in, fit just fine, and while it's not fastened down yet and only held in position with a couple of C clamps, my floor is starting to go back in! I'm still expecting a tight fit on the front piece, since the steel plate up there is still riveted to the shell (and I hate to drill it out fearing I might not get the holes lined up again), but the floor jack should let me get the rest of the pieces in ok.

Exciting stuff for me. Since I started this in February, my goal has been to get the subfloor back in before our cold and wet Northwest weather came back. I know I can get it done in time, now.

cheers,
steve

BTW, the blackberries are just thick in the back of the storage yard where we keep the trailer. Pam and I did a little picking today (well, she ate, I picked ). They're really good.
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Old 08-14-2009, 06:24 PM   #81
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Just wanted you to know I've really enjoyed your postings. Hope you do indeed get the floor back in before the weather turns bad up there.

Wish I was able to still pick blackberries. They've been gone for a while. Too hot!
Carol
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Old 08-14-2009, 08:40 PM   #82
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Just wanted you to know I've really enjoyed your postings. Hope you do indeed get the floor back in before the weather turns bad up there.

Wish I was able to still pick blackberries. They've been gone for a while. Too hot!
Carol
Thanks, Carol. It was cold enough today to think about ditching the shorts and going to jeans, but we usually don't do that until the temps get into the 50's.

cheers,
steve
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Old 08-14-2009, 08:50 PM   #83
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Thanks, Carol. It was cold enough today to think about ditching the shorts and going to jeans, but we usually don't do that until the temps get into the 50's.

cheers,
steve
50s??? That's parka weather around here. We hit our eleventy-leventh triple digit day here, around 105 at my house. I stopped counting when it was 50 days and counting.

Floor works looks fantastic, Steve. The rest of your subfloor will go in just fine I expect. The shell flexes and contorts surprisingly well, and even if you encounter some tough spots, a little more prying will likely get you right where you need to be.

-Marcus
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Old 08-14-2009, 08:54 PM   #84
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Thanks, Carol. It was cold enough today to think about ditching the shorts and going to jeans, but we usually don't do that until the temps get into the 50's.

cheers,
steve
That's a Northwest weather attidude. We are at the Oregon coast right now and it's 65 and overcast, but there are still dozens of people swiming in the Ocean.

Keep up the good work Steve.
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