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Old 05-26-2008, 09:32 AM   #29
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Wow Doug!

I thought you fell off the planet since your blog was never updated. The work looks stunning!. No where to hide in that shiny trailer!

Steve
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Old 05-26-2008, 01:43 PM   #30
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Looks great Muddy! Can't wat to see you guys in it!
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Old 05-27-2008, 04:08 AM   #31
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Looking real good! When is the "maiden voyage"?
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Old 05-27-2008, 05:49 AM   #32
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Maybe

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Originally Posted by yukionna
Looking real good! When is the "maiden voyage"?
Depending on if I can get the head in and the rest of the cabinets built, I might bring it down to the rally at fishermans in RI. If that doesn't fly, then scussett in 09 more likely. Even if it comes out at fishermans, I'll be working on this project for awhile.

The interior skin is fitted and now I need to finish installing the overhead lights and do the final rivets on the top panel. I intentionally just tacked the top panel on so if anything were to happen with the electrical I could get to the wires easier. Just one more switch to install and then I'll be ready to button it up. I'm also waiting on a hole punch from HF.

The head is the big project left to do. I'm building a wet bath out of laminated king starboard plastic board. The material is used in the boating industry and is something like cutting board material. I salvaged a stainless sink and other head parts from a local (yes local in the middle of the state) boat yard that was going to junk a sport boat. The guy yanked the engine and sent it overseas and let me take what I wanted off it after. Got some good parts.

For the toilet I'm going to use is a vacuflush system from Dometic. I decided to use this versus a gravity system since it allows me to place the bath/toilet just about anywhere I want. Also, the system comes complete so I don't have to cobble together tanks below or position the toilet in a place where the tank is. The same goes for the shower, I'm going to use a shower pump to draw the water out and into the grey tank.

I'm adopting a new motto, "Scratch Happens". The new interior skin is cool, but I'm prepared to deal with the idea that scratches are bound to happen and have. If in a couple years it's not looking any good, then I'll probably have it zolatoned but for right now I sure like the shiny interior.

Doug
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Old 06-22-2008, 04:41 PM   #33
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Marvel-ous

Rob Baker and I swapped parts more than a year ago and I got a 50s Marvel fridge that was in pretty dire shape, but it had all the original parts less tha compressor. The fridge sat in my garage for the winter until just recently when I was given a marine fridge 12v/120v. I took it all apart and removed the compressor and evaporator and set them aside to install in the new box.

I have been wanting to redo this fridge and put in my 56 from the time I got it and the freebie fridge spurred me on. I built a completely new cold box carcass out of king starboard and plywood laminated on with special glue. I insulated it with 2.5 inches of pink insulation and bubble insulation. I stripped and re-painted all the metal parts using epoxy appliance paint. After spraying it I let it sit for two weeks to harden. Once the paint was cured, I compounded polished and sealed it with Mcguires. The hardest part was finding a door seal that would fit. I ended up finding one on instawares.com for $25, but I had to fit it on since it was not an exact fit.

The net is that I have a new 50s Marvel fridge with a marine compressor. Here are a couple pictures of the almost finished fridge.

Doug
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Old 06-22-2008, 05:38 PM   #34
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Rob Baker and I swapped parts more than a year ago and I got a 50s Marvel fridge that was in pretty dire shape, but it had all the original parts less tha compressor. The fridge sat in my garage for the winter until just recently when I was given a marine fridge 12v/120v. I took it all apart and removed the compressor and evaporator and set them aside to install in the new box.

I have been wanting to redo this fridge and put in my 56 from the time I got it and the freebie fridge spurred me on. I built a completely new cold box carcass out of king starboard and plywood laminated on with special glue. I insulated it with 2.5 inches of pink insulation and bubble insulation. I stripped and re-painted all the metal parts using epoxy appliance paint. After spraying it I let it sit for two weeks to harden. Once the paint was cured, I compounded polished and sealed it with Mcguires. The hardest part was finding a door seal that would fit. I ended up finding one on instawares.com for $25, but I had to fit it on since it was not an exact fit.

The net is that I have a new 50s Marvel fridge with a marine compressor. Here are a couple pictures of the almost finished fridge.

Doug
Some might say you could have spent less (including your time) and got a new fridge. I say that's a beautiful piece of work to be proud of! Looks great.
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Old 06-23-2008, 05:41 AM   #35
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VERY nice! I've thought about taking a modern fridge and trying to make it LOOK vintage, but this idea takes the cake. You can't beat the look of the old Marvels. Good show!

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Old 06-23-2008, 08:44 AM   #36
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VERY nice! I've thought about taking a modern fridge and trying to make it LOOK vintage, but this idea takes the cake. You can't beat the look of the old Marvels. Good show!JP
Muddy Hollow - Absolutely GREAT thread for those of us wanting a vintage trailer to re-do, a lot of us with minimal skills when compared to this group! Please do keep posting as you proceed.

And while I don't mean to hyjack your thread, and you mentioned the fridge, my question - how hard are Marvel's & the old GM Fridgidare's to find & have restored to working order? And, is there a ball park average cost for both questions.

Many of the early 1950's AS's I look at have had the original fridge pulled. Could have been many reasons why, but I suspect the cost to repair. Is this being done, at reasonable prices?

Thanks for this GREAT thread!
Jim
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Old 06-23-2008, 10:10 AM   #37
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Fridge repair or replace

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitsend View Post
Muddy Hollow - Absolutely GREAT thread for those of us wanting a vintage trailer to re-do, a lot of us with minimal skills when compared to this group! Please do keep posting as you proceed.

And while I don't mean to hyjack your thread, and you mentioned the fridge, my question - how hard are Marvel's & the old GM Fridgidare's to find & have restored to working order? And, is there a ball park average cost for both questions.

Many of the early 1950's AS's I look at have had the original fridge pulled. Could have been many reasons why, but I suspect the cost to repair. Is this being done, at reasonable prices?

Thanks for this GREAT thread!
Jim

Good question. I guess it goes to price vs. condition of the fridge. If you're starting off with a good unit, that has not rusted through then the process of re-doing it yourself isn't so bad especially if the compressor still works. Most of what I have seen have been in rough shape. I don't know who you would reach out to have one fixed since they are specialty items.

The big cost is the compressor. The originals were mostly 120v, but I have seen some propane version on this forum in the past. Not sure I would trust a 50 year old propane unit.... A good 12v replacement compressor from norcold, engel or any of the other marine vendors will run $600plus or you can try to find a second hand fridge and salvage the guts like I did.

I don't intend on keeping the compressor long term, since it's second hand and a bit of pig on amps. Boondocking would be a bit of work and might require a generator or something else. When, and this is a big when, I have enough money I'd like to go for a cold plate and danfos compressor. These are much more energy efficient than the one I am using.

Again, if you have a marvel that is in good shape then replacing the compressor is a bit of work but doable. Taking one apart and having someone rebuild it from the ground up is going to cost you something like 50 hours worth of work plus materials. I suspect it's cheaper to go new.

Doug
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Old 06-24-2008, 06:43 AM   #38
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And while I don't mean to hyjack your thread, and you mentioned the fridge, my question - how hard are Marvel's & the old GM Fridgidare's to find & have restored to working order?
Check out these guys. I was going to buy one of them a while back, but never followed through. The electric ones from Lowes are so cheap and easy to install!

PartsForSale

Good luck!

JP
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Old 06-24-2008, 06:54 AM   #39
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Fridge

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Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can View Post
Check out these guys. I was going to buy one of them a while back, but never followed through. The electric ones from Lowes are so cheap and easy to install!

PartsForSale

Good luck!

JP
Before Rob and I swapped parts, I had spoke to Jeff at Trailerworks about one of these Marvels. These guys were super and your post reminded me of a picture they had sent me. It's about the same condition as mine was originally.

Last night after work I installed the interior lights and push button switch. I used four white LEDs to light up the interior and they worked great. To install them you need a drill about the same diameter as the LED and push the LED into place while feeding the wire out. Friction holds it in and I'll be damn if I can wiggle it out. I'll post some more pics when I finish installing the shelves.

BTW, what do you mean by the electric ones from lowes?
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:06 AM   #40
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BTW, what do you mean by the electric ones from lowes?
Lowes sells dorm fridges for next to nothing. They come in 3 sizes, and the smaller 2 sizes have a lock at the bottom to keep your room mates out of your beer... works good for keeping the door shut during transport, too! They range from $120-$150. It's electric only, but if you're gutting parts, it might be a good source for all the workings!

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Old 06-29-2008, 05:25 PM   #41
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Roughed in wet-bath

I've changed around the original layout to include a wetbath where the four drawer chest used to be. I really liked the chest of drawers that I re-did but after working out the dimensions, I could not make it work. If anyone is looking for a complete 4-drawer chest with a bent birch top let me know. It's real nice.

To do the wet bath I made the base out of IPE. The base will be covered in a couple layers of epoxy and 5 coats of marine varnish to make it water tight. The drain will empty into a bilge which will then pump it up into the grey tank. IN those spots that allow me to dump on the ground the gray water, the vent will be 1" so it will spill over on to the ground. The bilge is a standard marine shower bilge that I will mount under the floor. Keep tuned, I just ordered it.

The shower is made of king starboard, white, and the door is from a very new boston whaler that had been damaged in a boat yard explosion on the north shore of boston. The door is mint. The place I got it from was a salvage place here in town that specializes in insurance claims. Cool place.

The toilet is a vacuflush unit and allows a super amount of flexibility where I locate it and the black tank. The package was expensive, but considering it was a turnkey solution versus trying to plumb a custom job, I figured it was less stress for me to install. So far it's great. The tanks are marine tanks and will be emptied by dometic t-pumps (transfer pumps). My friend over59 convinced me that the pump out config was the way to go versus gravity. It's more expensive but a much easier set-up to install and for vintage set-ups super flexible.

I'm not putting a sink in the bath, since the kitchen sink it just outside. I'll have a medicine cabinet just outside the door so it's not a wide area to cover.

Here are some pictures.

Doug
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Old 06-29-2008, 08:15 PM   #42
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To do the wet bath I made the base out of IPE. The base will be covered in a couple layers of epoxy and 5 coats of marine varnish to make it water tight...

Here are some pictures.

Doug
Doug - you're a brave soul to use wood for a shower base. I must say though, if you're going to do wood, IPE is probably the best way to go. Considering it's got a average lifespan of 25 years, and the added protection your putting on it, it should outlast you.

How did you join the boards together and what kind of glue did you use for this project?
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