Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-03-2016, 03:17 PM   #21
3 Rivet Member
 
jjmtb's Avatar
 
1957 22' Caravanner
1965 26' Overlander
appleton , Wisconsin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 137
Quote:
Originally Posted by DDickey View Post
Hey jjmtb, the thought of pulling the shell is way more intimidating than actually pulling the shell. It's a lot of work, but nothing is particularly difficult:

1. Gut the interior
2. Pull the inner skins. The rivet drilling tool from Vintage Airstream is a must have tool.
3. Discard all of the old insulation
4. Remove the lower belt on the front and rear of the trailer. It should be screwed on
5. Drill all of the rivets, including all of the rivets around the wheels. There are some blind rivets that are a PITA that you have to find and drill from the inside. You'll know when you've got them all because the shell will easily pop free.
6. Truss the shell so that when you pull it off it will retain its shape. I just used scrap lumber and 1"x2" - the trussing doesn't need to be beefy, just triangulate everything to ensure the shell keeps its shape.
7. Park the trailer where you want the shell to live for awhile
8. Build two gantries. Use 12' 4x4 for the verticals and a 10' 4x6 for the horizontals. There are plenty of examples throughout the forums. Get two chain hoists from Harbor Freight, attach them to the gantries and drop them through the front and rear air vents. On the inside of the trailer use a 12'x2"x8", drill two holes large enough for the hooks of the chain hoists to drop through and use a couple of 1"x8" galvanized nipples to lock the hooks in place.
9. Lift the shell. If you've gotten all of the rivets it will come off easily. You've probably missed a blind rivet or two.
10. Pull the bottom end out, put some plastic down and set the shell down
11. Tie the shell down to the ground! The shell in this state is very light and fragile, if you don't tie it down a big wind could come along and end your project.
DDickey-

Wow, those are some seriously great and invaluable instructions. The intimidations factor gets smaller and smaller as I figure the steps out and run through them in my head.

I wasn't sure if I should take out all the interior skins. If I could it would give me a few more things I can put on the list to work over the winter. Your advise helps tremendously.
__________________

__________________
1957 Caravanner Full Monty
jjmtb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 03:34 PM   #22
3 Rivet Member
 
jjmtb's Avatar
 
1957 22' Caravanner
1965 26' Overlander
appleton , Wisconsin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 137
A Little about Me

So far I have told all of you a little bit about Sylvi. Some details of how I got her back to home base but you know nothing about me. So, a quick introduction to add a little background.


The intimidation factor for taking a project like this isn't too bad. I am a little handy. My "handiness" though has never been applied to a camper. There are things I don't know that I will have to figure out but from what I have found reading these forums is there is a wealth of information to find or waiting to be shared. I am confident to getting the answer I want.

I have been working in, on, or around aviation for over 20 years. I started as an airframe mechanic in the Navy. Bending and riveting metal was my first job. Transferable skills I would say. I know the difference between a 470 and 1097 rivet , 2024T3 and 2024-O, and 2024 and 6061. I know what a cleco is.

After my time in the Navy I got a job outfitting $50m custom airplanes. I have been there for almost 20 years. I have worked in sheetmetal fabrication and all the fit and install of furniture and components. I have friends and coworkers that are custom cabinet makers, custom upholsterers, and electrical technicians. Again, transferable skills.

So I know this is going to be a heck of a project but the intimidation is not knowing about the issues with these old AS. What mistakes not to make? Best ways of doing things? I look forward to the help and making this thing a beauty.
__________________

__________________
1957 Caravanner Full Monty
jjmtb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 03:40 PM   #23
4 Rivet Member
 
DDickey's Avatar

 
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 368
Inner Skins

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmtb View Post
DDickey-

Wow, those are some seriously great and invaluable instructions. The intimidations factor gets smaller and smaller as I figure the steps out and run through them in my head.

I wasn't sure if I should take out all the interior skins. If I could it would give me a few more things I can put on the list to work over the winter. Your advise helps tremendously.
There are three reasons to pull all of the inner skins:

1. You'll want to replace the old insulation. You can significantly increase the R value by going back with a radiant barrier, then new insulation.
2. The wiring is 60 years old and it needs to be replaced.
3. When you water test your shell you're going to be shocked at how bad it leaks, that's why your floor is rotten. You'll want to wire brush all of the old velkum and go through the routine of sealing the shell back up. I'm using TremPro 635 on every single seam and every single rivet on the inside, and I'm using Captain Tolley's on every single rivet on the outside. Furthermore, I've removed all of the windows too so that I can rebuild them. They leaked terribly, and with them removed I can ensure that I seal them properly.

Again, the thought of removing the inner skins is way more intimidating than actually removing them. You are going to need to invest in some riveting tools. I bought everything I need to do pop, buck and Olympic rivets. Most everything will go back with Olympic rivets, and you'll need the shaver. Some assemblies require buck rivets and it's not too hard to learn how to do, just takes a little practice.
DDickey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 04:36 PM   #24
3 Rivet Member
 
jjmtb's Avatar
 
1957 22' Caravanner
1965 26' Overlander
appleton , Wisconsin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 137
Quote:
Originally Posted by DDickey View Post
There are three reasons to pull all of the inner skins:

1. You'll want to replace the old insulation. You can significantly increase the R value by going back with a radiant barrier, then new insulation.
2. The wiring is 60 years old and it needs to be replaced.
3. When you water test your shell you're going to be shocked at how bad it leaks, that's why your floor is rotten. You'll want to wire brush all of the old velkum and go through the routine of sealing the shell back up. I'm using TremPro 635 on every single seam and every single rivet on the inside, and I'm using Captain Tolley's on every single rivet on the outside. Furthermore, I've removed all of the windows too so that I can rebuild them. They leaked terribly, and with them removed I can ensure that I seal them properly.

Again, the thought of removing the inner skins is way more intimidating than actually removing them. You are going to need to invest in some riveting tools. I bought everything I need to do pop, buck and Olympic rivets. Most everything will go back with Olympic rivets, and you'll need the shaver. Some assemblies require buck rivets and it's not too hard to learn how to do, just takes a little practice.
Great advice. Thank you so much.

I do intend to remove all the inner panels. I wasn't sure I should do it before or after lift off. If I can do it before I can work on the panels in my spare time. It would be a time saver.

Another question. I want to remove and rebuild my windows. As you know there are a lot of them. Can or should I remove them before I lift off or after I have the shell on the ground? I see the pro's and con's of both. Do you have a recommendation?

Right now working on Sylvi is a challenge. She is still in the UP 3.5 hours away. I will be on vacation for the next two weeks and I want to get things done that I can bring back with me to work on. So windows are one of them.

With winter coming my goal is to have plenty of work to do at home. I will bring the frame back with me. I have garage space for it just not the whole thing. Make any repairs or mods over the winter and treat it. Have the sub floors remade and remounted. Repair or replace any c channel that needs it. This will also be the time I clean and rebuild all the windows. I will make any repairs to the interior skins, fill any random holes, and clean or strip as needed. If I am cruising along I will make a decision to replace the belly skin or not. Plus decide on rebuild or replace axles and get new tires and rims ready to go. That should be a good amount of work to do after my three kids are in bed for a winter.

If I get all that done then as soon as spring comes everything goes back up, shell on, bring her home and get going on the interior when I can put it in my driveway.

Easy peazy, right????
__________________
1957 Caravanner Full Monty
jjmtb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 05:03 PM   #25
Moderator
 
HiHoAgRV's Avatar

 
1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central , Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,721
Images: 29
Blog Entries: 49
1957 Caravanner Full Monty

I will add a couple of Full Monty suggestions. Before drilling and pulling the shell, screw a piece of ply across the bottom of the door opening so it won't spread or pinch during the shell off. Leave the wood there until you have the shell cleco'd back onto the frame. Once you pull the shell, measure the perimeter of the floor all the way around the C channel. When you start to reassemble, this will help get the floor assembly the right size so the shell will slip right back on. It doesn't take much of an error and the floor is too big/long/wide or small and you will have issues in resetting the shell to fit it.
__________________
Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy http://www.airforums.com/forums/f205...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ome-71609.html
HiHoAgRV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 05:26 PM   #26
3 Rivet Member
 
jjmtb's Avatar
 
1957 22' Caravanner
1965 26' Overlander
appleton , Wisconsin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 137
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
I will add a couple of Full Monty suggestions. Before drilling and pulling the shell, screw a piece of ply across the bottom of the door opening so it won't spread or pinch during the shell off. Leave the wood there until you have the shell cleco'd back onto the frame. Once you pull the shell, measure the perimeter of the floor all the way around the C channel. When you start to reassemble, this will help get the floor assembly the right size so the shell will slip right back on. It doesn't take much of an error and the floor is too big/long/wide or small and you will have issues in resetting the shell to fit it.
Ahh, great advice on the door opening. I hadn't thought of that. Plus, taking the door off gives me one more thing to thoroughly go through this winter.

I had assumed that the floor would/should be flush to the outboard side of the c channel. Is that not the case?
__________________
1957 Caravanner Full Monty
jjmtb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 06:18 PM   #27
3 Rivet Member
 
Trnpk Crsr's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 112
Subscribe!
Trnpk Crsr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 06:42 PM   #28
3 Rivet Member
 
jjmtb's Avatar
 
1957 22' Caravanner
1965 26' Overlander
appleton , Wisconsin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 137
Welcome Trnpk
__________________
1957 Caravanner Full Monty
jjmtb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 06:49 PM   #29
4 Rivet Member
 
DDickey's Avatar

 
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 368
Windows

I don't think it really matters when you remove the windows, but they'll be a great winter project because they're extremely time consuming. I removed them and broke them down completely so that I could get to every nook and cranny. It's an i.n.c.r.e.d.i.b.l.e amount of work, but I'm more concerned about doing it right than doing it cheap or doing it fast. Depending on how much time you have they could take you all winter.

At the stage that you're at I'd be more concerned about getting an accurate template for the subfloor. Mine was in relatively good condition so I just laid the new plywood over the old and traced it, but it sounds like yours might be a little more complicated.

Measure, take pictures, take notes, measure some more, measure again, measure three different ways and write it down. Then take more pictures. I was certain I would remember how things go back together, so I didn't take too many pictures, but now that I'm rebuilding the bottom end I wish I would have taken more. It's the danged details that get you
DDickey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2016, 06:30 AM   #30
Rivet Master
 
Becky B.'s Avatar
 
1964 17' Bambi II
Vintage Kin Owner
Schererville , Indiana
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,631
Images: 19
Let me suggest that you definitely replace the belly pan & add grey tanks into your frame. They have them at Vintage Trailer Supply (whose next vacation you may be funding!&#128512. New axles are probably your best bet too. Not so much $ in the big scheme of things & probably the most important part of the whole project.
__________________
Becky


1964 Bambi II
1988 Avion 32S
Becky B. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2016, 08:42 AM   #31
3 Rivet Member
 
jjmtb's Avatar
 
1957 22' Caravanner
1965 26' Overlander
appleton , Wisconsin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 137
Quote:
Originally Posted by Becky B. View Post
Let me suggest that you definitely replace the belly pan & add grey tanks into your frame. They have them at Vintage Trailer Supply (whose next vacation you may be funding!&#128512. New axles are probably your best bet too. Not so much $ in the big scheme of things & probably the most important part of the whole project.
I intend to replace the belly pan and add a grey tank. I have seen those on VTS. I just have to decide where to put it and how to vent it.

Axels are going to be replaced as well.

I am still in the tear out phase but doing as much planning in my head as I can. I was up all last night building and planning when I should have been sleeping.

My wife thinks I am going to go crazy. I have been known to overthink things. Oh boy...

How about a couple interior pics...???
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2389.jpg
Views:	85
Size:	181.2 KB
ID:	268301   Click image for larger version

Name:	2390.jpg
Views:	96
Size:	229.6 KB
ID:	268302  

__________________
1957 Caravanner Full Monty
jjmtb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2016, 08:55 AM   #32
Rivet Master
 
Hittenstiehl's Avatar
 
1962 28' Ambassador
1961 19' Globetrotter
Mesa , Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 4,078
Images: 9
The tanks are skinny and can fit between the frame riggers and can be vented to your existing sink vents.

Steve from Vintage was so patient with us as we emailed back and forth with measurements and drawings. He knows his Airstreams.
__________________

Hittenstiehl
Hittenstiehl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2016, 09:47 AM   #33
4 Rivet Member
 
DDickey's Avatar

 
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 368
I'm finally going to install my tanks this weekend, I'll take pics and write it up on my other thread. At that point I can finish installing the subfloor and then flip it over to start working on the belly pan. I've found a local supplier who has 10'x4' sheets of .032 5052 for $59 ea, and that's what I'm going to use.

Are you going to go back with the same floor plan?
DDickey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2016, 12:37 PM   #34
3 Rivet Member
 
jjmtb's Avatar
 
1957 22' Caravanner
1965 26' Overlander
appleton , Wisconsin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 137
Quote:
Originally Posted by DDickey View Post
I'm finally going to install my tanks this weekend, I'll take pics and write it up on my other thread. At that point I can finish installing the subfloor and then flip it over to start working on the belly pan. I've found a local supplier who has 10'x4' sheets of .032 5052 for $59 ea, and that's what I'm going to use.

Are you going to go back with the same floor plan?
Awesome. You are cruising right along. I cant wait to see how your belly pan replacement goes and I can cheat off of you. This is going to work out great for me

As for the floor plan it is going to have to change. Somehow I need to fit a family of five in this thing.

I am thinking triple bunks in the back with dinette conversion for the front for me and the wife to sleep. Kitchen in the same spot. As I sketch this thing out I keep finding I have no room for a toilet. I may not put one in. I have had a lot of feedback on that. My point is that if you tent or pop-up you don't have a bathroom so whats the difference? Less hassle and stuff.
__________________
1957 Caravanner Full Monty
jjmtb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2016, 12:38 PM   #35
3 Rivet Member
 
jjmtb's Avatar
 
1957 22' Caravanner
1965 26' Overlander
appleton , Wisconsin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 137
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hittenstiehl View Post
The tanks are skinny and can fit between the frame riggers and can be vented to your existing sink vents.

Steve from Vintage was so patient with us as we emailed back and forth with measurements and drawings. He knows his Airstreams.
Thanks for the tip. I will be referencing all this info for future reference.
__________________
1957 Caravanner Full Monty
jjmtb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2016, 02:51 PM   #36
4 Rivet Member
 
DDickey's Avatar

 
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 368
Floor plan

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjmtb View Post
Awesome. You are cruising right along. I cant wait to see how your belly pan replacement goes and I can cheat off of you. This is going to work out great for me

As for the floor plan it is going to have to change. Somehow I need to fit a family of five in this thing.

I am thinking triple bunks in the back with dinette conversion for the front for me and the wife to sleep. Kitchen in the same spot. As I sketch this thing out I keep finding I have no room for a toilet. I may not put one in. I have had a lot of feedback on that. My point is that if you tent or pop-up you don't have a bathroom so whats the difference? Less hassle and stuff.
If you do triple bunks in the back and a gaucho in the front you could still have room for a toilet. I'm doing a queen bed in the back and a gaucho in the front (sleeps 4) and I'll have a kitchen with stove, oven fridge and sink, wet bath with toilet and shower, plenty of closet space, and a chest of drawers. I've attached a quick and dirty floor plan...
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Lucy.jpg
Views:	94
Size:	85.9 KB
ID:	268313  
DDickey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2016, 06:07 PM   #37
3 Rivet Member
 
jjmtb's Avatar
 
1957 22' Caravanner
1965 26' Overlander
appleton , Wisconsin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 137
Quote:
Originally Posted by DDickey View Post
If you do triple bunks in the back and a gaucho in the front you could still have room for a toilet. I'm doing a queen bed in the back and a gaucho in the front (sleeps 4) and I'll have a kitchen with stove, oven fridge and sink, wet bath with toilet and shower, plenty of closet space, and a chest of drawers. I've attached a quick and dirty floor plan...
I like it. What I find so interesting with all of this is that people have such different needs and can create a floor plan to suit there particular needs just right. My wife wants openness and counter space.

When I get a chance I will get a sketch up here for all to see.
__________________
1957 Caravanner Full Monty
jjmtb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2016, 01:46 AM   #38
Rivet Master
 
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland , New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
Images: 3
"Somehow I need to fit a family of five in this thing."

Might I suggest a ATU.

Auxiliary Tent Unit!
HiJoeSilver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2016, 08:22 AM   #39
3 Rivet Member
 
jjmtb's Avatar
 
1957 22' Caravanner
1965 26' Overlander
appleton , Wisconsin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 137
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiJoeSilver View Post
"Somehow I need to fit a family of five in this thing."

Might I suggest a ATU.

Auxiliary Tent Unit!
My 6 year old thinks that is great idea. He wants to go as far as he can into the woods and bring his nerf gun in case there is a bear.
__________________
1957 Caravanner Full Monty
jjmtb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2016, 09:03 AM   #40
4 Rivet Member
 
DDickey's Avatar

 
1957 22' Custom
Lago Vista , Texas
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 368
Open plan

Ah, yes, on open floor plan will be nice with all of those georgeous Windows. What is your serial number?
__________________

DDickey is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1957


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (0 members and 3 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1957 22' Caravaner Getting the Fully Monty DDickey Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 20 08-03-2016 08:04 AM
Caravanner :: 1957 Airstream Caravanner floyds Airstream Registry Discussions 0 08-19-2011 08:32 AM
'57 Caravanner Island Girl :: 1957 Airstream Caravanner pbearsailor Airstream Registry Discussions 0 08-19-2011 08:30 AM
68 22' Safari - Starting the Full Monty! soldiermedic General Interior Topics 24 11-27-2006 09:54 PM
new carpet to a almost full monty Deano69LY General Repair Forum 9 11-30-2005 05:18 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:43 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
×