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Old 06-29-2017, 08:15 PM   #141
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1957 22' Caravanner
1965 26' Overlander
appleton , Wisconsin
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Originally Posted by Bubba L View Post
I just went through the top shock mount issue. We also received our axle from Colin and it turned out great. Don't remember the shock Colin recommends, but that is the one we used. We have a thread on our 55 renovation that shows pictures on how we fabricated the mount bracket. "Tale of a 55 FC Whale Reno" should show the way we made it. It is tight in the wheel well, but the shock can be replaced someday if needed. Just make sure you place the bolts appropriately where you can remove the nut and shock easily. Good luck. Bubba


Bubba-

I reviewed your thread. I am just having trouble visualizing it. Maybe I am way off with something. I got the axle from Colin. I fab'd the mount to the drawing he said. I just can't see how the shock mounts in all this. Is the flat plate for the shock or axle mount? How does the shock mount fit vertically?Click image for larger version

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Old 06-29-2017, 08:34 PM   #142
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I'll take some pictures in the morning and send them via a PM message. I'll make a little sketch and also send that. I also made the brackets per Colin's sketch but decided to make a longer plate to spread the load farther fore and aft of the axle load point. At any rate, i did weld the shock bracket to the mounting plate. The bracket is at an angle due to the axle tube. But the bracket hole where the top of the shock mounts is directly above the lower mounting hole on the axle. I'll get you something in the morning. Bubba
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Old 06-29-2017, 08:38 PM   #143
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1957 22' Caravanner
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appleton , Wisconsin
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Thank you. Much appreciated.
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Old 06-30-2017, 09:21 AM   #144
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This is a sketch of how I did it. I lengthened the mounting plate to spread the load down the mainframe. This also gave me a good point of attachment for the lower end of the shock bracket.
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You can see in the below photo that we used a 3" spacer plate welded to the mounting plate. We had to do this because our wheel well was only 13" deep at the top of the wheel well. We had to get the shock bracket out far enough to clear the wheel well.

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This last shot shows the nut (attaching the shock) at the lower point of attachment facing the mainframe so that it can be later removed.
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Hope this helps. Let me know if you need anything else.
Bubba
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Old 07-03-2017, 05:07 PM   #145
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That does help. I feel like I am finally moving forward.
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Old 09-12-2017, 09:15 AM   #146
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I apologize for the lack of updates. I have gotten a bit of work done on the camper. All frame repairs have been made. A new step has been welded on. The new axle and wheels are on. The frame has been wire brushed, metal prepped and POR-15. I got the subfloor back into place.

Unfortunately I don't believe I would have gotten the plumbing and belly skin done in time for the top to go on before winter. Since I was still borrowing space in a family members garage and couldn't keep the top there any longer I had to put the top on temporarily and bring the entire thing home. That meant moving gantries between two states, dropping the top on, scrapping all my new c channel by riveting it all back together, and driving home without belly skin. But, I did get it all done and tucked Sylvie in my garage.
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Old 09-12-2017, 09:17 AM   #147
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Old 09-12-2017, 09:20 AM   #148
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Old 09-12-2017, 04:15 PM   #149
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Congratulations

I remember feeling a deep sense of accomplishment when I got the shell back on.
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:51 AM   #150
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It did look and feel pretty awesome to see it together and being pulled down the road. Unfortunately I get to do it all over again.
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Old 09-13-2017, 01:18 PM   #151
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Why?

Did you make a mistake?
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:22 PM   #152
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jjmtb, I know it seems disheartening to place the shell and have to pull it off again, but that may be a good thing. We dropped our shell twice before the final third time. Kept leveling, tweaking and trying to remember things I may have forgotten before the final attachment. I hate you had to relocate your project, but at least you had the satisfaction of seeing the shell attached. It's looking great and your doing terrific job.
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:07 PM   #153
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One mistake

So when I dropped my shell I sat 'er back down, thought it was all good and got to riveting. So much goodness. Only later when I started putting the interior skins on did I notice that the street side rear of the shell was dropped 1/4". It was too late to correct it when I found the problem. No one will ever notice it but me, and maybe someday I'll forget about it, but it bugs the hell out of me right now. Better to get it right while the getting right is available to you
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Old 09-18-2017, 09:57 AM   #154
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Thanks all. While it was discouraging to have to reattach the top to move it the process wasn't all that bad. I got to teach my wife how to rivet. She did a great job with the bar. I had been wondering how I was going to buck all the rivets as this job goes on and knowing that my wife can help was a resolution to a big piece of the puzzle.

All together, it only took about 4 hours to put it back on and rivet it together. We got into a pretty good rhythm and was ready to pull her down the road in no time.

I used the existing curved extruded channel (front and back) to use as a guide to locate the shell with clecos. I then used the existing holes in the straight sides as a guide to drill the rivet holes in my new side channel. It worked well. All I have to do now is get more of the bent c-channel made and refit it all. It is a minimal investment (less than $100) except for the time.

It was pretty exciting pulling it home. It was a 220 mile trip. With the new axle and wheels I had no worries. Now that it is home it is a big relief and the options to work on it are endless. I also got a few thumbs up from other travelers with that beauty on the back.
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