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Old 09-19-2015, 03:04 PM   #1
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
san francisco , California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 217
Taking the plunge - shell off restoration 1959 Globester

I bought a 1959 18' what I thought was a Traveler last year. Turns out it is a Globester made in So. Cal. I say that because of the wheel openings shape and the location of stove, sink, etc.

I should of known better than to buy one that was supposedly updated. Just as any house, car, motorcycle I can never live with half-assed.
And this was a grand example of that. I paid way too much for this as I had the fever for a 50's model, short minimalist type. I guess I can look at it as cost of education...Oy Vey!

I was looking at ones that were already stripped down and that's what I should have bought for less money. This was not done properly at all, layers upon layers of bad on top of bad as well as some rumpled panels which I can't live with. So I have my work cut out for me. Serious floor rot, U channel rot, bent panels, shoddy electrical, cheap components. The only way to tackle these IMO is to strip down and start from scratch.

I had started taking out this and that and now she is stripped bare and all is loose to pull the shell. I am now looking at removing the one roof vent that is centered in the top of the shell. All lower interior panels are removed and from what I've read so far it should be fine to span the ceiling with a 2 x 6 or two, wrapped in foam on each end. I am looking at purchasing an electric winch to pull through opening. I believe that this should be fine as that is where the strength lies. I just don't want to tweak the shell as that would ruin my day.
What say ye?

I'd like to leave it hanging as I have no other space to store it as I work on the frame. Let me know all you veterans of such madness if you have any suggestions or ideas.

My background was construction and auto body so I have some experience in problem solving and mechanics and many tools. I realize that there will be more to be purchased and am open to those suggestions as well.
my goal is to have her on the road by spring.

I was following Vernons / "HIHO" in ole Miss. and his 60's project that is similar in construction and he suggested starting a thread for input.

Thanks all you AS fellow madmen and women in advance.
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Old 09-19-2015, 05:00 PM   #2
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1974 31' Sovereign
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Just be aware you're jumping into the deep end!

My quick thought for now would be not to use an electric winch. My thought being that you loose the tactile feedback and fine control you'd get with a chain hoist. If there happened to be something holding the shell down still you won't feel it like you would with a manual lift method. If you're just holding down a button you could pull more than you think and possibly end up damaging something.
The 2x6s should be fine, I used 4x4 and that was more than enough. I put some 2x on cross wise that went up above the ribs in a few spots and screwed into the ribs parallel to the center line to keep the support from potentially sliding sideways.
If it's indoors you could keep it hanging but you'd probably be better putting some 2x across saw horses front and rear and setting it down on there. You could keep the hoist as backup. Don't leave it hanging outside!
Figure out the floor thickness and get the best finish you can in that thickness, if you can get AC ply in correct thickness, use it with the A side up, that will give you a nice smooth surface for future flooring options. After cutting to shape I recommend doing something to the wood to protect it. Many options, I primed the top, edges, and in a bit in on the bottom from the edges and put on a couple good coats of porch and floor paint. Helps protect the wood from water, keeping most of the bottom un coated lets it breathe and dry out if it does get wet. Some people have marine epoxied the edges. Should help reduce the future funky musty smell too.

Welcome to the club!
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Old 09-19-2015, 05:45 PM   #3
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
san francisco , California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 217
Too late for turning back now. Once committed to the trailer it had to go this way...no halfway in this one. I couldn't turn around and try to sell to another unsuspecting lost soul..bad juju.

thanks for that input. I like the idea of 2x's running perpendicular to the main support.
I also get what you say about too easy pushing a button, however I was going to have my friend inside to check all attached points as I slowly raise it.

I guess I could sit it on 2x's and bricks or a movable platform. Maybe a couple of subfloor lengths with swivel casters. That way I could move around to the shorter ceiling side to pull cars in / out.

Now from what I understand you try and keep the crumbling existing subfloor and "u" channels together in one piece to make a template?

I've read up on different ways to remove elevator bolts so ready for that.

There are missing pieces. I saw Vernon laid out the channel on new wood and traced it, but I didn't see how the floor was assembled to the frame. Also he suggested measuring carefully the OD of channel after removing shell and make sure template matches.. I'll have a better vision once shell is outta the way.

I'm anxious to get that nasty old smelly wood outta here ASAP.

Do you glue together the plywood edges before bolting onto the frame?
I thought it was tongue and groove but I'm hearing different now.
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Old 09-19-2015, 09:14 PM   #4
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1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
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I'm no expert on something as old as a 59 but I think the chanels are only u Chanel's and not c that wrap around the edges of the wood. So once you get all the bolts out of the shell and rivets if there are front or rear hold down the shell should lift off of the floor. My understanding is that for those trailers the u Chanel and shell just rests on the wood. So once you lift the shell the wood floor will still be sitting on the frame. A little different than the ones that wrap the wood edges and have to remove rivets around the perimeter so the side chanel's don't get lifted with the shell. Then you can use the wood as a template or put new wood down, set the shell down onto them to trace and then cut allowing for the Chanel thickness which should be about 1.5".

Plywood edges just get butted up to each other nice and tight. The edges should align in the middle of cross members which supports where they join and gives a good alignment reference.
Floor is bolted to the cross members and ends of the outriggers with large self tapping screws or elevator bolts. I liked the screws.

Hopefully someone with better '59 knowledge will chime in. But being mechanically inclined when you remove things I think you'll get the picture quickly.
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Old 09-21-2015, 05:55 PM   #5
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1991 34' Excella
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Cool, a new restoration thread! These vintage have some differences on the 'C' um 'U' setup. It pretty much has to stay with the floor when the shell comes up because the belly pan in wrapped up and folded back over the channel.

After everything went back together on the ones I have done, I poured epoxy in the gaps between the sheets of ply once the shell landed and I was sure I wouldn't need to loosen any of the sheets. Honestly this wasn't for any other reason than to stop a couple of really irritating squeaks!

I used RAKA epoxy, it's cheaper than West and I've had good results on some wooden boats using it.

If you have removed all of the heavy stuff from the shell, a few beers and some buddies could probably just lift the shell by hand in a pinch. I manually lifted a '55 Flying cloud myself one corner at a time as I blocked it high enough to roll out the frame.

Keep us 'posted'
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Old 09-21-2015, 11:02 PM   #6
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
san francisco , California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 217
There he is da' man Vernon..thanks for stopping in.
Also thanks for documenting the restoration of Dolly & for the encouragement and suggestions.
I like the idea of pouring the epoxy at joints and after things are in place..great suggestion.
I wonder what the shell weighs?...maybe 600lbs?
I'm going to make a rolling subfloor deal so i can move it around.
Right now I'm putting together the tools that I don't have and start to gather materials. I've been reading other threads to try and start a list of things.
I had some pictures on the first post that disappeared when I added pics on the second post. Can you only load 4 pics per post?
I just found out that you can't edit post after 24 hrs. Oh the learning curve on so many levels..LOL.
Let me try again.
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Old 09-22-2015, 09:02 AM   #7
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
san francisco , California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 217
I read another thread where there were squeaks in the floor. Since insulation is originally squeezed between the floor and frame do you think I should attach something on top of the frame between floor?

I am going to use rigid insulation under floor as Vernon did on Dolly.
I saw that regular soft insulation as a bad way to go. It dries out, flies around, animals seem to love it. I had a wall full of dog food and pinto beans once inner panels were removed as well. It must have taken thousands of trips from the food source into the wall...
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:50 PM   #8
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1974 31' Sovereign
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"I read another thread where there were squeaks in the floor. Since insulation is originally squeezed between the floor and frame do you think I should attach something on top of the frame between floor?"
I didn't and haven't had any bad squeaks. After having a little squeak it made me wish I had put something down there, to late now. You only need something soft under there that will last. I was wishing i had either put down a strip of gorilla tape or bead of polyurethane to bed the floor onto.


"I am going to use rigid insulation under floor as Vernon did on Dolly.
I saw that regular soft insulation as a bad way to go."
Good choice.
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:38 PM   #9
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
san francisco , California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 217
I have been busy on this project and have had a rough time of it as like most things I can't find much help. Always seem to figure things out too late for the first time.

I ended up using 3/4" mdo signboard material. We use it for exterior signs that take serious expose. The sheets are 7 later, run on a coveyer through a sander, after being filled, surfaced, primed, baked, painted, and baked one last time. They are straight and flat as you can get, then after being cut to size, corners etc. I used an catalyzed eurethane (Amershield) 3 coats on bottom/sides.

Then once the frames was stripped, I used the POR 15 system. Also used the 2" purple pink panther rigid insulation. Then I shaped it down to the shape as close to belly skin as possible. Before I attached the floor I used 2" wide bithutane tape on top of frame to act as a cushion / filler to avoid squeaks as well. Also keeps moisture from sitting on top of frame.
The body was lifted from the frame using a forklift I have. Then when I did the bottom I used a cherry picker to lift the rear and forky to lift the front. We rolled it with the new axle in place.
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Old 01-21-2016, 08:04 PM   #10
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
san francisco , California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 217
The frame was pretty good being a Cali / Las Vegas / Tahoe resident most of its 55 years. When I see other folks that don't have to replace panels I'm envious as heck.
I counted 9 I have to replace...yikes.
I mean when you're at this point you might as well.
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Old 01-21-2016, 08:17 PM   #11
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
san francisco , California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 217
I replaced all the "u" channel and replacing and beefing up wall channels. They have an interesting tape between certain panels and on edges of wheel wells. I guess the aluminum shell then doesn't make direct contact to steel. I also found it at the door corner where it meets front panel. I guess that's where people are using vulcrum now?
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Old 01-21-2016, 08:29 PM   #12
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
san francisco , California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 217
I made a bracket for the rear bumper like a rotisserie so that end was on cherry picker and front hitch had a chain around forky and we lifted and spun back within a minute.
I tried climbing up and down for about five minutes and made that bracket. All the world of difference and still a lot of work but upside down?..Impossible I say!
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Old 01-21-2016, 08:44 PM   #13
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
san francisco , California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 217
I had to lift the body off twice as the template was too fat on the corners.
I was yelling pretty loud each time I had to unwrap those bannanas and retrim, reprime and repaint. Plus by myself I had to lower the shell, walk around inside and how wrestling this thing in place. I didn't want to stop until that shell was back on.
It is just resting in the channels but at least it fits. It will be like that until I can teplace the lower panels and rivet in place.
I have to replace both sides and two corners. Then I'll adjust and jack up the drooping rear in place rivet her down. Then remove the ceiling interior, front window. I also have to remove the door to replace that side panel...OY Vey!
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Old 01-21-2016, 08:47 PM   #14
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
1957 26' Overlander
san francisco , California
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 217
Took off that terrible front corner piece and the door wouldn't open. Thankfully I could climb in and jack up the front corner until I get that in.
There is a serious amount of tail droop but when I jack up rear bumper I see the daps between body and frame close up.
I'm waiting on 2024 T3 to get here. Need to order vulcrum.
I have all my cliquos and rivets, riveter, trimmer, rivet removing tool http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...-p/vts-497.htm from vintage AS is a great little tool...well thought out and built.
A small learning curve but more than one way to use that tool...
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