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Old 08-18-2011, 07:39 AM   #29
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Yes, one can forget about all the effort that was required to get it to the current condition. We humans have a tendency to put the pain out of our minds....

You're right about documenting the quirky units that were produced so long ago... back when Airstream really was customer oriented!

I'm including some pics for your thoughts such as:

1. How much work do you think it might take to fix/replace the segments on the left front side that are damaged?
2. Does the bottom look okay to you?
3. Do you think the body, overall, looks in good shape?

Anxiously awaiting your reply!
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:57 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GREENovaters View Post
Yes, one can forget about all the effort that was required to get it to the current condition. We humans have a tendency to put the pain out of our minds....

You're right about documenting the quirky units that were produced so long ago... back when Airstream really was customer oriented!

I'm including some pics for your thoughts such as:

1. How much work do you think it might take to fix/replace the segments on the left front side that are damaged?
2. Does the bottom look okay to you?
3. Do you think the body, overall, looks in good shape?

Anxiously awaiting your reply!
Is that a 1958 Ohio model? Less than 100 were made, right?

First off, I would check the interior for the soft floor first. You can always take advantage of the "inspectors" on the forums here. I didn't, but only because the person I bought it from, Bruce, is one of the most trustworthy people I have ever met, and gave me a lot of info on what needed to be done and what he might be concerned about. On to specifics.

1. Not much work with some rivet bucking and a patient friend. This is how much my buck rivet system has cost me:
$20 bucking bar
$50 used 3x rivet tool (w/ adjustable regulator) from Ebay
$10 rivet set
$5 bag'o'rivets
$65 used Craftsman 125psi air compressor

Of course, for the cost of aluminum, I would probably opt to just replace the forward curved panel and either patch or leave alone the flat panel. Then again, my body looks much worse than yours.

2. Hard to tell from picture. My worst section was the forward crossmember just below the front window, at the back of the A-frame. The wood looks 10x better than mine was, but then again I didn't have many noticable leaks under teh belly skin, they were all from the appliances and poorly cut vents that leaked onto the top of the floor. I'm not an expert at that. I will say that my frame was lucky enough to have the original paint on most of it, so I couldn't even see rust on the sides.

3. The body looks incredible. I would kill for your shell. I have so many cut out vent holes that I am going to have to patch because they are in the wrong place for my interior configuration. You have none. That's amazing. It's like a blank slate to do whatever you desire. She will look great polished.
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Old 08-23-2011, 11:48 AM   #31
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Getting solid

8/23/11 UPDATE:

1. Finished resin coats on first floor piece. Installed into front section in single piece with lots of kicking and shoving. Learned to make roundover on edges much bigger as I caught the C-channel (U-channel) on the plywood in at least 10 places. Of course, straight sections should be easier.

2. Polished, cleaned, and installed front window. Repaired cracked window frame best I could. Used 3/16" pre-smoked polycarbonate plastic for resistance to rocks and chips. Removed rear window to do identical work, will use same plastic material out of convenience since current pane is plastic there as well, and not glass. Tint ended up matching perfectly with professionally tinted glass pane on curbside.

3. Finished wirebrushing A-frame. Will remove next section of subfloor and wirebrush frame this week so that I can prime and paint the next big section and install another section of flooring.

Also, we settled on the official name for the trailer. We had only taken ZigZag as a temporary name so that I didn't have to say "the trailer" all the time at home. Now she is the "Knight in Shining Armor" which I'm sure has been done before but we love it. Also, that way I can still call her a her--yes, female knights are possible in my book.

Lastly, I have decided how I want to do the rear interior endcap, the problem is convincing the boss. Also, convincing myself that it is worth the cost.
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:31 AM   #32
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Progress....

9/8/11 UPDATE:

1. Second plywood sheet coated and ready for installation on primed, painted and insulated frame. Just awaiting arrival of graywater tanks. One will be going in the rear bay of this second section, and the other in the forward bay of the next section, such that the 4"x20"x36" tanks will be in the two bays in front of the axle.

2. Front, curbside, and rear windows are all finished. Waiting for a good "window" of opportunity to pull out the streetside set, since it will take a significant more amount of work to finish.

3. Ran out of Olympics while doing the door! luckily I had enough to complete the outer edge, so only the frame around the inner door is cleco'd. (see picture). I also took the opportunity to install a deadbolt below the L-77 handle for more security while in the trailer and also while travelling on the road. I used a patio door-style deadbolt with a small backset but large throw. I chose this one so that the outer appearance would be mortise-style and inset, thus being unobtrusive to the vintage style. Also, re-insulated the door with Reflectix and foam.

4. Finally, I polished the other remaining 20 or so trim pieces from windows and other various places that I had left. Now it is simply a matter of all the big panels and the overhead locker unit.
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Old 09-08-2011, 01:13 PM   #33
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It's looking great! Fun thread to follow, and you've set an enviable pace (esp. with all the other irons in your fire).

Keep up the great work, you'll have that rolling tent in "blank canvas" shape in no time.
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:30 AM   #34
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3 weeks minimum!!!

Just got word that my graywater tanks are still another 3 weeks out! Ay carumba. Looks like I'll have to just continue with floor replacement, but not bolt in the center sections. My motivation to do so is that I want all the floor reinstalled and supporting the shell so that I can drive the 400 feet in the storage yard to the wash bay where I can spend a day checking for and fixing leaks....so that I can begin insulating the shell....so that I can install the electrical....so that I can have some visible progress.

Small update:

Finished stripping the overhead storage locker, and almost done polishing it. Beginning to purchase appliances and electrical items. Now have a fridge, the entire 110V system, and all the LP supply items (regulator, tanks, tank cover, rack, etc.)

It's been awhile since I had some good detailed pictures. I'll work on that.
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(still updating, haven't gotten to the Airstream trips yet)
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Old 09-16-2011, 01:12 AM   #35
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Looks like it really is coming along! I can't believe you stripped the whole inside. I just did the front nose cone and that was enough. Keep up the great work!!
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Old 10-08-2011, 02:13 AM   #36
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Christmas for Peter

OK the last few days have been pretty great Airstream-wise...

My gray tanks arrived on Thursday. I've been installing the sensors, harnesses, and testing the tank level monitor panel before I hide them under the floor forever. Also got to play with the dump piping arrangements and settled on something simple.

Went to Lake Elsinore (2hrs) to pick up a new Dometic 2-way compact fridge I bought off a guy on ePay. Even with the round-trip gas cost, great deal. On the way back, guess what city I passed? Corona.... And we all know what's in Corona!

That's right, I got to visit Inland RV. Andy seemed pretty busy, so I'll have to say hi and thank you next time. But the ladies there were extremely happy to help the random stopper-by and chatted with Marie and I for quite awhile. The biggest unknown so far aside from what the condition of the frame would be was how to replace and obtain new vented access doors. I think I've got some ideas now after seeing so many Airstreams there. Anyway, back to the grind. School tomorrow, and hopefully installing the final pieces of the floor on Sunday.
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:56 AM   #37
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Going along nicely!
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:41 AM   #38
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First off, thanks for the positive encouragement from everyone! It sure helps when I look back on days like yesterday, where I was at the trailer for 11 hours minus a one hour trip to HD and lunch-- a day wrought with pain, frustration, anger, more frustration, fatigue, and ultimately, success. Now:

Update 10/10/11:
  • Assembled the LP tank/regulator/pigtail system
  • Polished, resealed, and installed rear storage door
  • Installed support straps for tanks, had to use 1/4" spacers
  • Wired/installed level sensors on gray tanks, and harnessed together in waterproof conduit.
  • Finished riveting bellypan to frame and finished insulating bellypan with Reflectix and styrafoam.
  • Installed rear sheet of plywood.

Now I need to go find a small right angle drill to rivet the bellypan back up to the frame member right above the axle. Oh, yeah, and I need to put the floor on top of the middle two sections, which means I need to remove (2) 8" lengths of C-channel and pry back one rib. Objective is to finish this week.

Happy Streamin!
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:00 PM   #39
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Why the new drill... is it too tight in there for your regular one? Can you jack the trailer up and put some blocks under it to give you more room?

It occurred to me that you're putting the bellypan on first before the floor? Maybe with the small trailer it's easier to get away with this, but does this make the shell harder to lift to get the wood under it? Also, how are you securing the wood to the crossmembers with the bellypan in the way?

Just wondering?

You're making great progress!
Marc
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:24 PM   #40
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Shell-on, bellypan-on....

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy View Post
Why the new drill... is it too tight in there for your regular one? Can you jack the trailer up and put some blocks under it to give you more room?

It occurred to me that you're putting the bellypan on first before the floor? Maybe with the small trailer it's easier to get away with this, but does this make the shell harder to lift to get the wood under it? Also, how are you securing the wood to the crossmembers with the bellypan in the way?

Just wondering?

You're making great progress!
Marc
As for the drill, it's because of the placement of my reverse drop axle (50's leaf spring setup) being directly under the frame crossmember that the bellypan is supposed to be riveted to. It makes it difficult to drill out the old rivets from below and due to their placement on the frame crossmembers of being on the inside of a 1" lip, with a 2" lip on the top of the crossmember, it is difficult to drill them from above. I was able to agressively punch out a couple, but stopped and decided a right-angle drill bit would be so much easier. I thought about jacking it up, but short of removing the axle entirely, I just don't think it will make enough room to get my hammerdrill in there. I could try a long drill bit I guess?

Either way, at this point there are so many wide-head 3/16" bellypan rivets everywhere else that I doubt it will move too much. I can wait until I find a good solution or eventually get a new axle (~75% chance within a year).

As for the floor being secured, I am not purely using elevator bolts--The self-tapping floor screws are being used, along with a couple 3/4" plywood splices that go 6" under each section of a joint.

This is due to a variety of reasons, but ultimately because of my bellypan-on, shell-on renovation. If I owned a house or had some space, I would opt for the shell-off. And yes, the smaller shell makes it incredibly easier from what I've seen on here. For instance, of my 4 floor sections, the wheel well one can be installed by simply removing two 8" sections of J-channel on the side of one of the wells. The one in the front was slid in by rotating then "gently urging" it to get into place. The only real difficult one was the rear, which I have already dry fit and had to cut down the middle to get in at all.

My answer is getting real lengthy, but ultimately I will have LOTS of screws from floor to frame, and each piece of floor will have at least one row of elevator bolts with nylon lock-nuts. So I feel comfortable. I only say this to proactively prevent any shell-off/on debate on this thread That and I Love talking about Knight...
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Old 10-13-2011, 01:58 PM   #41
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Apparently I'm putting too many screws in the floor since I just ran out and I thought I had bought ~75.

One section left...
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:37 PM   #42
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Ha! Better watch your weight.. you might need a bigger axle! An idea about the stringer... can you attach a small light gauge plate from above underneath it? That would give you a wider "flange" to rivet the belly too while you have your axle on.

Keep it up! We all love to see pics.
Love this tailer btw... what plans do you have for the inside? Modern, retro? Stock layout?
Marc
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