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Old 05-14-2012, 11:43 AM   #241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy
Looking good! I always feel a little A.D.D. when it comes to working on my trailer. I like to think of it as multi tasking.
ADD or ABP-- Anything But Polishing?
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Old 05-14-2012, 03:34 PM   #242
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Omg

Running water... what (interior and exterior)
Seriously, you are 2 shakes of a lambs tail away.
Man, I would be salivating!!!!

More interior pics please, more, more, more (LOL)

Really great work peter!

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Old 05-14-2012, 03:36 PM   #243
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A.a.d.d.

Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy View Post
Looking good! I always feel a little A.D.D. when it comes to working on my trailer. I like to think of it as multi tasking.
Multi tasking, or A.A.D.D (airstream attention deficit disorder)

I'm ok with either, it's the little bit of itching and minor twitching/shaking thing that gets to me.
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:41 PM   #244
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Running water... what (interior and exterior)
Seriously, you are 2 shakes of a lambs tail away.
Man, I would be salivating!!!!

More interior pics please, more, more, more (LOL)
Yeah, it was a triumphant moment when I purged all the air out of the system and then started rapidly inspecting all the fittings, expecting to find a geyser of water spraying somewhere.

My only complaint is the noise of the freshwater pump is still louder than I expected, even after using SS hoses on inlet and outlet and a "quiet" FloJet model. I'm thinking of building a sound box for it, with leftover insulation materials and a few 1x2's.

I will take a bunch of pics today when I head over. Any specific requests?
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Old 05-15-2012, 11:50 AM   #245
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Yeah, it was a triumphant moment when I purged all the air out of the system and then started rapidly inspecting all the fittings, expecting to find a geyser of water spraying somewhere.

My only complaint is the noise of the freshwater pump is still louder than I expected, even after using SS hoses on inlet and outlet and a "quiet" FloJet model. I'm thinking of building a sound box for it, with leftover insulation materials and a few 1x2's.

I will take a bunch of pics today when I head over. Any specific requests?
I am thinking about using this for sound dampening. Can you take a couple pics of your electrical? Maybe the battery area with the fuses (in line if possible) and back of elec panel? Please please please!
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Old 05-15-2012, 04:01 PM   #246
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I am thinking about using this for sound dampening. Can you take a couple pics of your electrical? Maybe the battery area with the fuses (in line if possible) and back of elec panel? Please please please!
Dynamat is definitely good stuff, as I've seen it used to quiet down the interior of FJ Cruisers, with actual scientific findings on the reduction in audible noise level, but I've never personally tried it due to the price. I'm very interested to hear how it works for you.

I'll be sure to take some pictures of the electrical. My hand-drawn electrical diagram might be even more useful to you though. Especially because I haven't zip-tied anything and its a pure mess back there.
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:33 PM   #247
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West Marine

Peter,

You've probably seen these, but -- if not -- search "water inlet" at west marine.com. The Perko inlet might work for you. If you are looking for the stainless deck fill style, I have a bargain for you. I'm guessing that it's too intrusive in the interior and the the Perko might be better.

Can't wait to get to the building stage. I'm jealous.

John
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:16 PM   #248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worldinchaos

Dynamat is definitely good stuff, as I've seen it used to quiet down the interior of FJ Cruisers, with actual scientific findings on the reduction in audible noise level, but I've never personally tried it due to the price. I'm very interested to hear how it works for you.

I'll be sure to take some pictures of the electrical. My hand-drawn electrical diagram might be even more useful to you though. Especially because I haven't zip-tied anything and its a pure mess back there.
I actually have a buddy that said I can get his cost if you are interested? Maybe go in on some?
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Old 05-18-2012, 05:04 PM   #249
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Originally Posted by 65CV
Peter,

You've probably seen these, but -- if not -- search "water inlet" at west marine.com. The Perko inlet might work for you. If you are looking for the stainless deck fill style, I have a bargain for you. I'm guessing that it's too intrusive in the interior and the the Perko might be better.

Can't wait to get to the building stage. I'm jealous.

John
I have seen some of those, but never saw the angled full before. I'm kind of committed to where I am at this point, but that is probably a better option. We were trying hard to keep the outside as vintage as possible and in such an obvious place like the front of the trailer, opted for the vintage bargman that unfortunately has a 2" nozzle perpendicular to the shell. I trimmed some plastic off of the nozzle and barbed elbow, and we will only have to take an inch out f the cushion. It's not a normal seating location anyway, so I'm past it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy
I actually have a buddy that said I can get his cost if you are interested? Maybe go in on some?
Count me in, but in about 3-4 months. I rank that project below cabinet frames, electrical and propane systems, and even below cushions for guests, but maybe above drawers. Every week is another decision of what is most important for camping. Summer is almost here!!!
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Old 05-19-2012, 08:32 PM   #250
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Originally Posted by worldinchaos

I have seen some of those, but never saw the angled full before. I'm kind of committed to where I am at this point, but that is probably a better option. We were trying hard to keep the outside as vintage as possible and in such an obvious place like the front of the trailer, opted for the vintage bargman that unfortunately has a 2" nozzle perpendicular to the shell. I trimmed some plastic off of the nozzle and barbed elbow, and we will only have to take an inch out f the cushion. It's not a normal seating location anyway, so I'm past it.

Count me in, but in about 3-4 months. I rank that project below cabinet frames, electrical and propane systems, and even below cushions for guests, but maybe above drawers. Every week is another decision of what is most important for camping. Summer is almost here!!!
Cool I will find out product details and cost. No sweat on time frame, camping is the most important goal. I am getting the parts for my electrical next week. Inching along........
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Old 05-19-2012, 08:37 PM   #251
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Cool I will find out product details and cost. No sweat on time frame, camping is the most important goal. I am getting the parts for my electrical next week. Inching along........
Oh that reminds me! I owe you some photos! At least I think it was you. I'll post an electrical update soon, because it's almost all done.
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Old 05-19-2012, 11:36 PM   #252
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Some more electrical details as promised. The PD4045 takes care of the electrical distribution and battery charging. The 120V system consists solely of the OH light, converter, fridge, and all of the outlet receptacles on a GFCI circuit.

The 12V system consists of all the LED lights, the freshwater pump, fridge controls, LP/CO monitor, accessory outlets, and inverter. The inverter has two relays-- one for the remote master switch, and another which automatically switches the outlets from inverter supply to shore power supply when the 30a inlet is connected.

Just a few lights and tank level sensors left to wire in, then I'll finish making it look pretty... :-)
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:22 AM   #253
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Spent yesterday on two main tasks: final install of
the bed, and building the two vents for the fridge.

The bed was simple, just needed to make sure the forward hinged section didn't hit anything until after 45 degrees, which is where I'm going to have the lift springs stop. Trimmed the foam one final time, and we only have to take the bed out of the trailer one more time--to hem the now oversized cover. Pictures will come once I have the lift springs.

The vents took awhile due to perfectionism. Ive been procrastinating this for awhile because I hate cutting in to perfectly fine skin, but I had no choice. The trim was done with some scrap aluminum bent into a U in my brake, and then riveted to both walls. I'll seal the seams with vulkem once I put some screen mesh on the back of the louvers. It better not randomly rain this week, because those are going to be cleco'd until I get back from a business trip to Houston.

Chug chug chugging along....
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Old 05-22-2012, 02:32 PM   #254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worldinchaos View Post
Some more electrical details as promised. The PD4045 takes care of the electrical distribution and battery charging. The 120V system consists solely of the OH light, converter, fridge, and all of the outlet receptacles on a GFCI circuit.

The 12V system consists of all the LED lights, the freshwater pump, fridge controls, LP/CO monitor, accessory outlets, and inverter. The inverter has two relays-- one for the remote master switch, and another which automatically switches the outlets from inverter supply to shore power supply when the 30a inlet is connected.

Just a few lights and tank level sensors left to wire in, then I'll finish making it look pretty... :-)
So what type of fridge are you using? (120V/LP?)

What do you mean by "accessory outlets" on the 12V circuit?

I don't think it's going to rain down south. Up here in Northern Ca. It's supposed to rain on Friday, but slight chance, you should be fine.


Have you weighed in and decided on axle stuff. Can't wait to see new wheels on that beauty.....Lookin Shweet!

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Old 05-23-2012, 12:36 AM   #255
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So what type of fridge are you using? (120V/LP?)

What do you mean by "accessory outlets" on the 12V circuit?

I don't think it's going to rain down south. Up here in Northern Ca. It's supposed to rain on Friday, but slight chance, you should be fine.


Have you weighed in and decided on axle stuff. Can't wait to see new wheels on that beauty.....Lookin Shweet!

TIMK
I wanted one of the smallest 120V/LP two-ways of any brand, and was interested in a 3-way but only for the right price (wow that sounds weird to say...). Actually preferred the Norcold due to the absence of the ghost 12v charge for the controller, but got an amazing deal on a Dometic RM2351 on eBay still plastic wrapped and crated, and only an hour drive away, so no shipping.

By accessory outlet(s) on the 12V I am referring to your typical "cigarette lighter" plugs. I have one currently installed by the bed, and might add another by the sofa. I have the wiring there, but might save it and use it for a stereo in the future (or both, certainly sufficient gauge).

I'm holding off on any further axle work. She towed beautifully on the last trip and whenever I drive around the block to do something or another. The Centramatics, better trailer balancing, and proper hitch height have made the whole thing much smoother. I'll probably replace/rebuild the leafs at some points, but I'm waiting until I finish the full project and get the final scale weight so I can determine my spring deflection and rate.

Thanks for the compliments though-- I am thinking of at least poor-man-powdercoating the wheels and adding some half-moon hubcaps. That along with the repair I need to do on the door are the two largest cosmetic detractors from the trailer
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:26 AM   #256
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Norcold vs. Dometic

Peter,

We originally installed the Norcold 300 in our Caravel mainly because of the parasitic draw on the Dometic. It was a mistake. The internal temperature wasn't consistent, the size was smaller and it died right after expiration of the warranty. Unfortunately, it died on the road and I had to hire someone to replace it. The tech, a very well respected one with over a decade of experience, referred to it as a No-Cold.

We replaced it with the Dometic RM2351 and were much happier with the performance and size. It's parasitic draw was only 0.3 amps -- better than expected.

John
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Old 05-23-2012, 09:23 AM   #257
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Quote:
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Peter,

We originally installed the Norcold 300 in our Caravel mainly because of the parasitic draw on the Dometic. It was a mistake. The internal temperature wasn't consistent, the size was smaller and it died right after expiration of the warranty. Unfortunately, it died on the road and I had to hire someone to replace it. The tech, a very well respected one with over a decade of experience, referred to it as a No-Cold.

We replaced it with the Dometic RM2351 and were much happier with the performance and size. It's parasitic draw was only 0.3 amps -- better than expected.

John
Oh that's actually really good to hear. I was scared it was going to be more like 1 amp, and since it's the only thing running 24/7 (aside from the LP/CO sensor), it makes a huge impact on my electrical. Based upon my projections, that means I can still last up to 7 days, assuming no inverter use, and 50% max battery discharge.

Awesome, thanks again for the feedback!
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Old 05-23-2012, 09:53 AM   #258
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Some more electrical details as promised. The PD4045 takes care of the electrical distribution and battery charging. The 120V system consists solely of the OH light, converter, fridge, and all of the outlet receptacles on a GFCI circuit.

The 12V system consists of all the LED lights, the freshwater pump, fridge controls, LP/CO monitor, accessory outlets, and inverter. The inverter has two relays-- one for the remote master switch, and another which automatically switches the outlets from inverter supply to shore power supply when the 30a inlet is connected.

Just a few lights and tank level sensors left to wire in, then I'll finish making it look pretty... :-)
Thanks Peter! I am getting my panel/charger this week sometime. I am a little better at a task when I have the hard wear in my hot little hands. I have received my 50 amp inlet, Data/satellite and city water fill. Cut the holes in the skin (hate that too). Bought 100' 12/ 2 stranded Romex just need 6/2 stranded for the shore power to the panel. But at least got the trailer lights working off the umbilical. Nice work coming along! I however am on the 3 year plan....
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:29 PM   #259
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Oh that's actually really good to hear. I was scared it was going to be more like 1 amp, and since it's the only thing running 24/7 (aside from the LP/CO sensor), it makes a huge impact on my electrical. Based upon my projections, that means I can still last up to 7 days, assuming no inverter use, and 50% max battery discharge.

Awesome, thanks again for the feedback!
No sweat.

If you're serious about going 7 days or more, an ammeter is extremely helpful. We used the Trimetric 20/20 mostly in current mode. You can tell at a glance if something is wrong or left on. More than once, it stopped me from leaving the scare light on, which was the only non-LED light on the trailer.

The TriMetric's "Percent Used" functionality was useful too, but not too often. With your skill set, you may want to skip the cost of the Trimetric and consider whipping up a quick circuit and an amperage display. I'll bet you wouldn't regret it.
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Old 06-02-2012, 12:28 PM   #260
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No sweat.

If you're serious about going 7 days or more, an ammeter is extremely helpful. We used the Trimetric 20/20 mostly in current mode. You can tell at a glance if something is wrong or left on. More than once, it stopped me from leaving the scare light on, which was the only non-LED light on the trailer.

The TriMetric's "Percent Used" functionality was useful too, but not too often. With your skill set, you may want to skip the cost of the Trimetric and consider whipping up a quick circuit and an amperage display. I'll bet you wouldn't regret it.
I'll be honest, I had shied away from this due to my impression of cost from when I was looking for one for the boat a few years back. However, you got me to revisit it. I was printing up wiring diagrams when I spotted some on eBay for almost less than the price of gas to and from RadioShack. Unless I can find a relatively inexpensive analog one, I may just go for the cheap digital one as a gap measure, especially since time is a premium right now.

Thanks for the idea!
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