ordered a set of the red teardrop marker lights that go on the back sides of the AS from e-bay... as one is broken and one was replaced by a not-teardrop light. hope they arrive soon
and so you think that i should probably be able to use that WD hitch that i already have with little trouble? thats good news for me.
thanks for all the great advice!
Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies! has teardrop marker lights for your trailer for about $5 each.
When I hook up our Overlander, I put the WD chains in the 5th link from the end for proper distribution. I will count the links next time I get out to the trailer, this should get you close to where you need to be as far as weight settings.
well... the trailer got a bath today... (i really gotta think up a name... can't keep callin it "the trailer") and while i don't have a smaller trailer to compare to, i can, in fact, verify that it is indeed a large trailer... and requires a lot of elbow grease to wash (can you all guess who's post i've been reading for reference as to how my own project might go! ) altho it really looks alot better even with that one little thing done!
propane is verified working... and all the interier windows got washed.
found a lovely leak in the piping where the trailer was obviously not winterized well or at all... hopefully that will be the only leak. (yeahright ) we did NOT check the furnace... it looks atrocious. i'll try to get a picture... but the stove top definatly works.
speaking of windows... several of my windows have... for lack of a better way to describe it... wrenched actuators... one arm points one way, and the other points in a different direction... on most of them its not a huge difference... but its enough that the windows don't seat down evenly.
here's an example of the worst one:
that particular window is also not attached to the actuator arms... so it was "flapping in the breeze" on the trip home. any ideas on what to do with either situation?
i also have two "mystery switches". one is directly over the top jalousie window, and looks like a standard light switch. i had read someone somewhere mentioned that their mystery switch in that location turned out to be their porch light, but i don't have one (unless it was removed by a PO)
the other switch is a tiny little metal toggle switch directly next to the door
here's the first switch:
and here's the other (the metal toggle)
you can see the open door on the right side of the picture
i also think that at some point the trailer got water into it... the bottoms of all the cabinets look like this:
altho the floor feels pretty solid everywhere except right in front of the door... that spot is definatly rotten
we have a lot of work in front of us..
also... one last thing... there seems to be little toggle-clasps (turn them to latch them) over the wheel wells...three in total... one at each end, and one in the center. here's one:
its on both sides, too. what could this be?
wait, i lied... one more thing. i'm taking out all the curtains, because i don't like the color. they're only a few years old.. anyone want 'em?
Okay, your toggle switch is probably for the scare light mounted outside, just to the front of the entry door.
The twist latches on your wheel wells are for tire covers, to minimize the effects of weather on them while you are not using the trailer.
You can get the window cranks from mobile home supply stores, or Ace Hardware, they require a small modification to get them to work, but a 5 minute modification to get a $5 crank to work is better than a $50 crank that bolts right in...
Yes, I have noticed that Overlanders are large trailers, and require more time and effort to clean...
Something else I have noticed, most 1964 model Airstreams had a rudimentary Univolt/12 volt lighting and ventilation system, the first year it was equipped on Airstream trailers en masse. All the 120 volt light switches I see in your photos lead me to think you may in fact have a 1963, not a 64 model. The 1963's had no battery charging system as such, they just used the charge line from the tow vehicle to charge the battery in the coach. If you do have a 64, the Univolt and related equipment should be in a compartment in the rear of the trailer, behind a door in the back, over the bumper. They would have a dual power system, with both 12 volt and 120 volt fixtures side-by-side. For example, a 12 volt light bulb, with a standard base, in the same housing as a 120 volt bulb, also with a standard base.
it was up in the air what year my trailer really is... it says '63 on the title, but the bathroom has that streamlined airliner look of a '64. i can't find anything that looks remotely like a univolt... all i see is a circut breaker box next to the toilet, and a city power/battery power switch inside the back hatch.
and as for the color of the curtains... d'oh! i thought i'd included a picture earlier! sorry!... they're a kind of redish plaid flannel lookin things... bah... here... i went and took a photo:
oooo... its (kinda) shiny again!
amazing what a little soap and elbow grease will do.
here's a pic of the circuit breaker box next to the toilet (sorry its really dark... thats not a bright location, and i didn't bring a light with me)
and here's the switch inside the rear hatch
i'm thinkin' that unless i'm not seeing something somewhere... i missed the univolt by one year... apparantly. dang.
and anyway, on an unrelated note... we're beginning the preliminary planning of what to do with the interior. and i spotted this thread which pictures an overlander with a dinette in the front, and thats a better setup for our situation than the current pull-out couch (gaucho, i think its called? still learning all the terms). so obviously we don't need the one in the front if we do indeed intend to go in that direction. so i am tenatively offering the couch, in it's entirety. i havn't opened this one, so i don't know what condition the sliders are in. the upholstery is relatively new (less than 5 years old, i think... i'd have to go back into the paperwork that the PO gave me to find the exact date) and is the same color and fabric as the curtains. also, i have NO idea how to go about shipping such a think, so local pickup would be MUCH better for me. i'll see what i can do about examining its condition and getting pictures of it later.
Hmm, looks like it really is a 64, after all. If it works, you should be able to find the Univolt by plugging in to shore power, flipping the switches to their proper position, and following the hummmmmm to its source.
I think we'll pass on the curtains.
1. aluminum pop rivets are annoyingly fragile. they will "pop" before you are ready if you get impatient and squeeze the riveter too fast.
2. a WD hitch feels like it weighs a ton and a half, even with the arms removed.
3. if you give your husband or your father half a chance, they will steal all your extension cords for their own projects, leaving you unexpectedly in the dark.
4. my trailer doesn't have a univolt (or it has an inoperable one).
Too bad y'all live so far away, you could drag it down, and have a work party. Have you thought about attending the Can Opener rally? There are going to be many people there that would be more than willing to help you out, even if it is only to tell you where your elusive Univolt should be.
heh... well... if i'd known it was happening, i'da thought about it... however, i was just exploring a few minutes ago... and found it... and signed up! so i'm goin to the can opener!
and as for "living far away" i have no idea where in FL you are, but i was planning on traveling with my parents down to the keys area sometime in the beginning of the year.
Did you reserve your site? see the early posts for the sites we are using.
reserveamerica.com topsail hill state park. jan 5-7 or longer if you prefer. most of us are in the 140s and 150s
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(can you all guess who's post i've been reading for reference as to how my own project might go! 
) altho it really looks alot better even with that one little thing done!
) we did NOT check the furnace... it looks atrocious. i'll try to get a picture... but the stove top definatly works.
those "toggle thingeys" are for canvas wheel covers to keep the sun from rotting the tire sidewalls.
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