"The Bat Cave Express" is at the Airstream dealer in Waterbury CT getting it's wings put on. Pulled real good for the 90 minute ride. I was short a part so they had to keep it. These guys have been very good so far. Seem really interested in the rebuild.
The holding tanks and one of the fresh water tanks are in and plumbed. Fresh water tubing is in and plugged at each fixture, ready for a pressure test. I still need to add the forward fresh water tank.
Water heater and furance are in as well. We are setting up work space in the basement to build the cabinets over the winter. Really want to get it on the road for the Cherry Blossom in April.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
Gosh I've been around this Airstream stuff a long time, what are wings? I knew they were special - did not know we could make them fly......
Anyway, let me know if you need any help on the cabinets, have mine all built and ready to install as soon as I get the inside painted - have to wait for spring for that......
looking for info on Overlander 1959-1960 tire and wheels
I am looking for information on a 1959-1960 Overlander. I need to find out tire and wheel sizes, brake info and so forth. WE are planning to purchase this trailer, but it will need a lot of work. At this point we want to make sure it is road worthy to come home. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Welcome to the Forums and the world of Vintage Overlanders!
Quote:
Originally Posted by nameuroy
I am looking for information on a 1959-1960 Overlander. I need to find out tire and wheel sizes, brake info and so forth. WE are planning to purchase this trailer, but it will need a lot of work. At this point we want to make sure it is road worthy to come home. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
The 1959 would be of an era where a beam axle with leaf springs, and split-rim wheels would have been the norm. It would also be from the time-period when the coach could have been ordered with either a single axle or a tandem axle setup -- and if a tandem axle, it could have four-wheel electric drum brakes; electric drum brakes on one axle and hydraulic drum brakes on the other; or four-wheel hydraulic drums.
From the standpoint of wheels, if the coach has its original split-rim wheels, the general consensus is that replacement with modern wheels that support tubeless tires is nearly mandatory. My advice would be to have a local shop measure the clearances involved as well as the off-set, bolt-circle, and center opening to insure that the replacement wheels will fit. Tires can also become an issue as clearances can be tight in the wheelwells on some coaches -- I know that I have had a tire dealer measure and order new tires for each of my coaches to insure that if there was a problem fitting the wheelwell that the issues with measurements would be the dealer's and not mine.
Since both of my coaches are a bit newer than your '59, I am not certain what to suggest in regard to bearing and brake parts. If the '59 is similar to my '64, you should be able to find reasonably priced fully-loaded backing plates that include all new brake parts for far less than the individual parts with the plus being that all critical brake parts are new. The bearings and seals could have some variability based upon whether the coach was produced in California or Ohio; and also in some instances where it fell in the production run for a given year -- again, this is something that can often be sourced from a knowlegeable auto parts store (particularly in rural areas) or from utility trailer parts houses.
Good luck with your project!
Kevin
__________________
Kevin D. Allen WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC/Free Wheelers #6359 AIR #827
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400 VORTEC/4.11 Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
I am looking for information on a 1959-1960 Overlander. I need to find out tire and wheel sizes, brake info and so forth. WE are planning to purchase this trailer, but it will need a lot of work. At this point we want to make sure it is road worthy to come home. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
If you read the posts at the beginning of this thread you will find most of the info. The trip was interesting. What do you know are the trailer? Also may help to start a thread as this is long an many who load threads from the beginning don't see later posts.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
I am back at it. Had bad time with the ZipDee install. The dealer damaged the trailer, denied it, tried to charge me double the quote. Will not be doing business there again.
I finished the tub wall. Take a look. It's in our shower being tested for spotting. Those are water beads.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
Looks like you need some Glass Wax or something similar to keep the water from beading. Unfortunately, Glass Wax is no longer produced although there is one on Ebay that's closing soon.
So what is this weird plate thing in the front of the trailer holding the body on? It sticks up about 2" higher than the u-channel everywhere else?
Ankornuta,
Talk to me, is it a steel plate or aluminum skin material. I have an L shaped piece of skin at the front about 4" on each leg.
Bill
__________________
Bill Kerfoot, WBCCI/VAC/CAC/El Camino Real Unit #5223
Just my personal opinion
1973 Dodge W200 PowerWagon, 1977 Lincoln Continental
1979 23' Safari, and 1954 29' Double Door Liner Orange, CA
Bill, I think it's aluminum. But the damndest thing is that I have a "battery holder" type steel contraption welded onto the A-frame part of the hitch which is preventing me from drilling those rivets out of it.
I would like to grind the battery holder deal off and rebuild it anyhow (although it is original), but I don't really want to grind it right NOW, while there's still all that wood and junk (like the body) to catch on fire while attached to the frame...
There is a steel plate in the front which attaches the frame to the shell. Look to drilling the rivets from the inside. I didn't have anything in the way from drilling from the outside. If you are careful you may be able to grind off the rivets from the inside and punch them out. You must put this or a replacement back on.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
Does your aluminum piece look like the one in this picture? I think that that is what was used to help secure the front to the floor in addition to the channel before Airstream started using a steel plate welded to the frame cross member and riveted to the front shell. RJ Dial's 1957 Flying Cloud has the same thing.
Bill
__________________
Bill Kerfoot, WBCCI/VAC/CAC/El Camino Real Unit #5223
Just my personal opinion
1973 Dodge W200 PowerWagon, 1977 Lincoln Continental
1979 23' Safari, and 1954 29' Double Door Liner Orange, CA
There is a steel plate in the front which attaches the frame to the shell. Look to drilling the rivets from the inside. I didn't have anything in the way from drilling from the outside. If you are careful you may be able to grind off the rivets from the inside and punch them out. You must put this or a replacement back on.
Over59,
I do not have this steel plate on my 1954 Liner.
Bill
__________________
Bill Kerfoot, WBCCI/VAC/CAC/El Camino Real Unit #5223
Just my personal opinion
1973 Dodge W200 PowerWagon, 1977 Lincoln Continental
1979 23' Safari, and 1954 29' Double Door Liner Orange, CA