Oh, I know what you mean as far as getting up on the roof! I got up the ladder, but couldn't convince myself for fear that I'd have difficulty getting back on the ladder. That roof is so very curvy! Eek!
Rick got one fantastic vent up, one is left, so I suppose I'm going up there!
Mary
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Mary Dotson, WBCCI/WDCU #9026
Our Airstream reconstruction adventure continues! Read the details at Tales of the Toaster
marcdoane, did the pressure washing get all the old sealant residue off ? or did you have to clean it afterwards ? I have a bunch of silly cone that the Po put on to remove first. Just wondering how the end result looked.
Chris
I hit it hard, but the original (black) compound stayed pretty intact. My objective was to get all the dirt and grime out of the fay surfaces so the Parbond would have a clean surface to stick too.
For getting to the roof I built a scaffold with 2x4's and plywood rungs.I used it only once to remove the AC. After that I lean one of the 12 foot ladders I made on a padded 2x4 on the side of the trailer. I can reach enough of the roof from there.When it comes to putting the fantastic vents in I will probably assemble the scaffold again.
You bet. Had to come in and find the size of a #4 drill. I'm using some 3/16 Olympic rivets. Shell ribs are now bolted to the floor with 2024t3 channel under them. Took out the vinyl flooring. It was damp on the bottom and I kept having to watch were every piece of metal went so I won't step on it.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
Shell is firmly attached to the 3/4 " marine ply floor which is attached to the frame. I used 11 5 inch 90 degree brachets with grade 8 bolts. May be a little firm but it is attached . Problem with the 3/16 rivets, the air riveter doesn't do them. May there is another nose somewhere. I was going to use these for the belly pan but now delayed until I get other rivets or a new nose from harbor frieght or find it in the basement.
I replaced all the rivets which hold the interior ribs and cross members together. Some were already gone. Used 1/8 " with flat flange heads.
Found ribs with extra reinforcement forward of where I want to put the AC. I'll add support to the ones I want to use as the reinforced area will be the second Fantastic.
I find cutting the aluminum to be the most problems. Still getting the feel of the nibbler and my air cutting shear seems to be jamed.
Still have some 2" pink to add to the belly before closing it up. Have to get the Caravel ready to next weekend's gathering at Cape Cod.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
Boy I thought I was overkill by using steel "straps" when I attached my shell to the frame - didn't think of grade 8 bolts - I used stainless. Don't think you ever have to worry about loosing your shell - nice job!
I find cutting the aluminum to be the most problems. Still getting the feel of the nibbler and my air cutting shear seems to be jamed.
The air powered shears require a special touch and frequent lubrication. If you get them pointed and leveled just right ( side to side and up and down), then they'll cut the aluminum like butter. Also, I use liberal amounts of spray lube on the cutter, and also inside the air hose fitting. Otherwise the shears are sticky and hard to control. If you have a pistol grip shear, then make sure and use a swivel air fitting so you can throw the hose over your shoulder while cutting, otherwise the air hose fitting will interfere with the work.
And then the nibbler. This thing gets extremely hot without the liberal use of lube both inside and on the nibbling pin. I turn the air pressure down to about 80lbs, makes my nibbler a little less aggressive on .024.
I use full pressure of 110lbs on the .032
After lubing, I wipe both tools down with a paper towel, and then lube them again before putting them away. Makes for longer lasting tools.
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