Pulled the water heater. Opened it up to find a rather nice aluminum tank inside. The knobs are in very good condition, the heater tube looks good, the regular is unknown. When on pilot it doesn't push down, prehaps it's not meant to do so. One end of the cover and the body of the cover are good. Of course the brass fitting are like new.
If you want any of these let me know. I don't know if the internal water tubing is good nor how to test it with out alot of trouble. If no one want the internal tank I may polish it for a what the heck is that garden sculpture.
I'll post some picture when the camera battery recharges,,,,
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
Hi Paul,
I might be interested in the cover if it's in not to bad of shape and if it fits the opening I have for the newer Suburban WH. Can you post picture of it once your battery is ready? I'll go measure my existing cover. Thanks.
After all the shell-on floor replacement research, ideas, and efforts it looks like I'll be taking it, all off. I put in the front piece of 3/4 marine flooring and I am not satisfied with it. I had to rout the edges to fit under the channel. The only way I see of getting the other pieces in is to take off the channel, put in the floor and then reattach the channel to the floor and shell and belly pan. Sounds like reattaching the shell in a shell-off doesn't it. So I need to move the trailers around in the drive so I I have a place for the shell, the frame and the Caravel. All hopes of using "The Bat Cave Express" for this year's Region One are gone. Which means I need to spend some time on the Caravel to use it this year. Need a LPG heater.
The up side is I'll take the frame to the axel guys who replaced the Caravel axel with modifactions they designed and latter approved by "you know who". Two new axels and wheels and adding some elevation so the trailer doesn't bottom out. Add some frame support for the water tank placement and bolt down and so I can use 1/2 marine floor. The 3/4 is too heavy. I'll be able to get the frame sand blasted and painted. Looks like I'll just have to do it right and use the Caravel for what outings we do. Also means I don't need that new truck yet.
While avoiding this reality I have designed what I believe will be the most elaborate DC system any personal trailer has seen, purchased the switches, wire, and some lights to try. Designed the water systems down to the tanks and the weight distribution and bought some pumps. Desinged the LPG system including the size of the supply pipe. The colors, theme, fabrics ect are selected. I even have two ZipDee pation awnings in the garage waiting. Did this with much help from you on the forum. So do you think you could come by and take the shell off some time soon? I was really trying to avoid this but was only avoiding accepting it. Looks like a BBQ / shell lifting party coming up, you are all invited.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
Been there done that - feel your pain, admire your stick-to-it-ness.
Would love to join your party - except that I'm about 2000 miles from you.
Question - why don't you use 5/8" plywood - thats what was there before...... a little bit thicker than 1/2 - not as stout as 3/4 though..... and... in my opinion, if you don't need to do major frame work, taking the shell off is not necessary
This is the area behind the fridge. Looks like fire damage. The interior panels also have a black film in places as do some ribs. Look like a smoldering fire that started behind the fidge.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
All rivets are out, pushed through, and vulken seal broken, except those ataching to the front plate. Now I need to round up some jacks. I figure the shell to be about 400 pounds base on .46 pounds per square feet of 2024 and some for ribs and windows. Hope to take off the shell this weekend, then strip the frame for the sand blaster.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
As I am about (in a month or so) to venture down the same take-it-off-the-frame road you're currently on, a picture of the jack up and support rigs would really, really be appreciated.
It's off. As far as how it got this way I'll post some details later. I can tell you that some old retired guys from Airstream are sitting around laughing their... off about blind rivets, as in hidden from view. I'll be back with where to look for those as well.
I feel real good about this as I can now start to rebuild. The frame is in great shape overall. Still has the black finish coat on about half of it. It will be sandblasted and maybe primed need week. Then off to the axel shop.
I wanted to give it some height. Just need to put on straight axels. The orginals are a drop axel. It is low.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
The frame is now at the sandblasting company. The paint they use for coating is $450 a gallon. I declined the service and ordered a complete kit of POR 15. Hope to get it back Friday and take it to the axel shop.
Still debating the axel job. New everything? New Axels and plates ect, what rating, real axels or funny axels?.
I am leaning toward new straight axels @ 3000lbs, new shocks and four brakes and keepiing the 15.5 x 5 wheels. I like to look of the old bias tires on a vintage.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
My vote is new everything - the only thing I may do is take the springs to a spring shop and have them look at them - its my understanding they can tell you what kind of shape they are in - doing this because you can't just order the 7 stack springs that are on the trailer. Am also planning on a new hitch tongue to be welded on.
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some time soon? I was really trying to avoid this but was only avoiding accepting it. Looks like a BBQ / shell lifting party coming up, you are all invited.
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