A New Challenge-1963 Overlander rehab project - Page 3

**overlander63** · 05-25-2005, 06:02 PM

Today I installed a "newsed" Coleman A/C unit on the Overlander. The unit came from a retired Argosy trailer, the A?C worked, but the fan motor wouldn't run. I took the fan motor off the "old" A/C that was on the Overlander (same A/C, just a couple decades older), and installed it in the "new" unit. I only had to get a little creative, the only problem is there is one less wire on the old motor, so I only have "high" fan speed, but it is cold. I now have to plug up a rust hole I saw, and promptly forgot as I was putting the A/C up on the trailer. We have indoor cold showers, now.

**overlander63** · 05-26-2005, 02:42 PM

I took the A/C unit apart this morning, found the rust hole where the water was pouring into the coach, cleaned the rust out of the hole, and put a layer of fiberglass mat in the hole, with resin poured on top of it. While I was at it, I also fixed the soft spots on the floor with some fiberglass mat and resin, now that I have the leak stopped.
I also patched the hole where the water heater hole was, and installed the replacement water heater. Now all I have to do is plumb it, and hook up LP to it.
I checked the stove, and oven, they both work as intended, with no leaks, so one less thing to repair/replace. Less work is good.

**overlander63** · 05-27-2005, 04:14 PM

The (leaking) galvanized fresh water tank was removed today, the trailer is now about 100 pounds lighter. I hooked up municipal water to the trailer, and found a spot where the PO had not adequately winterized the coach after his last sojourn in it. I put a temporary patch on the leak, now we have non-leaking fresh water, now all I have to do is plumb in the water heater so we can take hot showers. Things are moving quickly here for now.

fireflyinva · 05-28-2005, 07:32 AM

Hi there Terry!

Great progress! We'll be removing our water tank soon (though it's a bit further down on the list, right now dealing with leaks). Speaking of leaks, what about that big hole? Any thoughts on what to do? We have a big hole where our furnace used to be. Fortunately, we have the old covering, though it was dented (maybe someone drove into it?) and it took a bit of cutting to remove.

The deal is, we're going to put our batteries where the furnace sat. We were thinking of either buying some random access door or panel (hopefully one that vents) and installing it there. Then we considered having a custom door fabricated. Now we are looking into options for mock installation of the old covering (maybe with a hinge? sliding rails?) that allows easier access to the opening.

We're curious to see what you do!

By the way, Airstream Dreams sells replacement astrodome covers for $160. Still a bit pricey, but cheapest I could find--and it looks like you have a good solution for at least now.

Mary

**overlander63** · 05-28-2005, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fireflyinva

Hi there Terry!

Great progress! We'll be removing our water tank soon (though it's a bit further down on the list, right now dealing with leaks). Speaking of leaks, what about that big hole? Any thoughts on what to do? We have a big hole where our furnace used to be. Fortunately, we have the old covering, though it was dented (maybe someone drove into it?) and it took a bit of cutting to remove.

The deal is, we're going to put our batteries where the furnace sat. We were thinking of either buying some random access door or panel (hopefully one that vents) and installing it there. Then we considered having a custom door fabricated. Now we are looking into options for mock installation of the old covering (maybe with a hinge? sliding rails?) that allows easier access to the opening.

We're curious to see what you do!

By the way, Airstream Dreams sells replacement astrodome covers for $160. Still a bit pricey, but cheapest I could find--and it looks like you have a good solution for at least now.

Mary

Mary, it looks like the furnace actually works, I don't know how that happened. After verifying operation, I will attach the cover a little more permanently than how it was (it was just hanging there, I took it off to keep from losing it). As far as something to go in the hole where your furnace was to acccomodate a battery, PM me, I may be able to help you. Something like an actual battery box assembly out of an older Airstream product.

**overlander63** · 05-29-2005, 11:49 AM

We got a new to us dual power refrigerator in the hole where the PO had put a 110v only fridge, and hooked it up to shore power yesterday, tomorrow I will hook it up to LP, and hope it works. It works on 110, so we have half the bettle won.

TomW · 05-29-2005, 12:25 PM

Terry,

Mine didn't work on LP at first even though it had a pilot light burning. Turns out the jet was partially clogged.

A quick test on yours is to adjust the air on the pilot. If you can get it to "roar", or be a little on the noisy side, your jet is probably clear. Think about cleaning the flue, though, if it looks like it ran on the rich side in the past.

Tom

overlander64 · 05-29-2005, 02:03 PM

Greetings Terry!

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

I have even checked in the black water tank, no fuses there, either

. No spot where it looked like there were even any fuses at one time. I guess I will have to get creative. Hello, Napa? I need...

I have been searching my notes and files for information on the original 12-Volt DC fuse arrangement that was typical of the pre-Univolt Airstream coaches (basically prior to 1964). I finally found the photo (I am not certain, but believe that it was posted by Markdoane) posted below of the 12--volt fuse block in the surface mount configuration (I have also seen them in an opening in the front wall that was hidden by an aluminum access plate that was held on by screws). I have seen at least two possible configurations -- typically with the front lounge, the panel was near the center of the front wall below the window and fairly close to the floor -- typically with a front dinette, the fuse block was mounted on the front wall on the curbside hidden within the confines of the booth seat base.

Good luck with your detective process!

Kevin

**overlander63** · 05-29-2005, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander64

Greetings Terry!

I have been searching my notes and files for information on the original 12-Volt DC fuse arrangement that was typical of the pre-Univolt Airstream coaches (basically prior to 1964). I finally found the photo (I am not certain, but believe that it was posted by Markdoane) posted below of the 12--volt fuse block in the surface mount configuration (I have also seen them in an opening in the front wall that was hidden by an aluminum access plate that was held on by screws). I have seen at least two possible configurations -- typically with the front lounge, the panel was near the center of the front wall below the window and fairly close to the floor -- typically with a front dinette, the fuse block was mounted on the front wall on the curbside hidden within the confines of the booth seat base.

Good luck with your detective process!

Kevin

Thanks, Kevin. It is beginning to look like the trailer never had fuses, or any other kind of 12v circuit protection devices.

I found a fuse panel at Boater's World, it is a bakelight type panel, with all brass contacts to reduce potential corrosion. Only about $10.

**overlander63** · 05-29-2005, 06:48 PM

We had become used to having a grey tank in our little Argosy, so I am putting a grey tank in the Overlander. While not the biggest grey tank in the world, it should be enough to hold a quick shower, and maybe a round of dish water.
I am going to replace the weird dump valve for the black tank at the same time, as it has no adapter for a slinky, it leaks, and the pull handle is broken off. Other than that, there is nothing wrong with it.

Now all I have to do, is route what looks like plumbing spaghetti over to the new grey tank.

**overlander63** · 05-31-2005, 02:36 PM

It didn't take long to get tired of resetting the 15 amp breaker in the garage from the 15 amp power feed wire to the trailer, I upgraded the line and plug to 30 amp service.
Strangely enough, it looks like the trailer originally had 30 amp in it, but somewhere along the line, it was cut off, and a 50' long chunk of extension cord with a 15 amp plug was grafted on it.
Now the trailer no longer has to try to suck a fire hose's worth of electricity through the electric equivalent of a straw.

GT1963 · 05-31-2005, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

We had become used to having a grey tank in our little Argosy, so I am putting a grey tank in the Overlander. While not the biggest grey tank in the world, it should be enough to hold a quick shower, and maybe a round of dish water.....

Hi Terry-sounds like you are having a lot o fun! what size and location will your new grey tank be?

jbond · 05-31-2005, 08:30 PM

We are making a similar Overlander journey. We recently rescued a early 62 Overlander from Ohio and brought it back to Florida. It has a bit of history associated with it as it is one of the ~40 Airstreams to go on the Around the World Caravan in 63/64. They shipped the trailers to Singapore and drove across SE Asia, India, Iran, Irag, Jordan , Europe, Russia , Sweden, Norway France and Spain. They shipped the trailers back to the US from Spain.

The Overlander is in sad shape now and needs everything. I have put some pictures on a Blog at :

http://62overlander.blogspot.com/

I'll add more as we start working on it.

Herb
63 Globetrotter #1861
62 Overlander #5289

**overlander63** · 06-01-2005, 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GT6921

Hi Terry-sounds like you are having a lot o fun! what size and location will your new grey tank be?

Yhe grey tank is a standard mid-70's grey tank fom an Argosy 22, somewhere between 7-10 gallons. I am going to locate it in a location similar to where it was located on the Argosy, aft of the axles, about two feet forward of the rear of the body. Inside the belly pan. I have the galvanized tray it sat in, and will fab up new braces to hold it in place, the ones from the Argosy were nothing more than strings of rust. I felt that the small grey tank would work in that area of the rtailer, without having to modify the frame other than installing the braces. The tank will never have fluids in it while it is being towed. All together, the tank, tray, and PVC pipes will weight around 30 pounds empty, and should not be a large detriment to the balance of the trailer while towing.