My New 1962 Overlander Project - Page 8

62overlander · 08-13-2008, 02:55 PM

Barry,
The hard part is getting the lip of the gasket material up into the channel and not have it seat into the edge of the glass. Once it goes in there it holds very tight against the glass. I find if you mess with any of the seals, you better have a piece of glass on hand.

BarryIowa · 08-14-2008, 07:35 AM

Well the picture doesn't look like much because the screen looks so bad but I got the new window in. It rained a bunch last night and from what I can tell, it doesn't leak.

Question: does the exterior porch light only run on 12 volt and is the switch for it a small toggle switch just to the left of the entry door and above the window?

Overlander & Sea · 08-14-2008, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 62-Lander

Question: does the exterior porch light only run on 12 volt and is the switch for it a small toggle switch just to the left of the entry door and above the window?

Everything is looking great.

On my '61 Overlander, the answers are yes & yes, 12 volt only, that toggle switch operates the porch light.

BarryIowa · 08-14-2008, 08:48 AM

Thanks for the information. I'll just test that the light works, and get the new light installed and worry about getting my 12 volt system working at a later date.

BarryIowa · 08-14-2008, 09:18 AM

Your rig looks amazing, bye the way. I hope mine will look as good one day.

utee94 · 08-14-2008, 09:25 AM

Same answers on my '63 so your '62 is likely the same. Frank told me his '62 has the same 12V porch light toggle in the same place as well.

Do any of the 12V interior lights work? Does your trailer have a converter/charger? If not, then the only way the 12V system will operate is from the battery-- do you have a battery and if so is it charged and working? Your 12V issue could be very simple.

The window looks great, keep up the good work!

-Marcus

BarryIowa · 08-14-2008, 10:29 AM

Hey Marcus,
I need to purchase a new inverter system. I was looking at VTS for one. I also need to do the battery and I was thinking about putting it under the goucho. Do you have any suggestions on either item? I was hoping to get away with the inverter/charger that is around $185.

**azflycaster** · 08-14-2008, 10:42 AM

Take a look at BestConverter - Converters, Inverters, Electrical Supplies, Electronics
Randy (68 Overlander) is the owner and can help.

utee94 · 08-14-2008, 10:45 AM

I'm definitely no expert here and I'm sure someone who has done this before will chime in soon, but first some quick terminology-- an inverter changes your 12VDC to 110VAC. That would be used for powering your 110VAC small appliances if you are camping without hook-ups and using only battery power.

On the other hand, a converter changes the 110VAC coming in from shore power into 12VDC to run the 12V side of things in your trailer instead of (or in addition to) your battery. A converter/charger can also be used to charge the battery when hooked to 110VAC.

I believe Steve at VTS sells and promotes the Intellipower unit from Progressive Dynamics, and there are many on the Forums who really like that one. Others on the Forum have had success with the WFCO converters found on BestConverter - Converters, Inverters, Electrical Supplies, Electronics . And still others have used Xantrex unit which you can also find at bestconverter and probably other places as well. I believe you should be able to find any of these to suit your needs for under $200, and a Search over on the Electrical sub-forum will probably yield more information, and more divergent opinions, than you EVER wanted!

If I were you, I'd ask Brad what he did and how it's working for him!

Good luck!
-Marcus

Overlander & Sea · 08-14-2008, 10:51 AM

I purchased the converter(60amp) from VTS. It works great, keeps the battery charged. That converter has been a great improvment. I have an original type new battery (made by Interstate) on the front of my trailer & would not keep a charge very long. I installed the converter under the sink & wired it to the 110v there that was for the furnance fan motor-old system was 110v and/or 12V furnace fan blower motor. The new furnance I installed was 12v only, so I didn't need the 110v there. All three of my new fans-roof fan, stove vent fan, and furnance fan only work on 12v, I really needed that converter.

utee94 · 08-14-2008, 10:55 AM

On the battery, mine is under the street-side galley cabinet with an access hatch to the outside, so that is also where the converter is located (the converter was an addition by Terry aka Overlander63, the previous owner-- like yours, mine did not originally come with one). And like Rick, I think the converter is a HUGE improvement. My kitchen exhaust fan, and Fantastic fan, both run on 12V only. I expect I'll be using the Fantastic Fan quite a bit, so I'd hate to run it just off battery all the time.

Ideally, if I were wiring one of these from scratch, I'd put the battery near the 110VAC shore power inlet, and put my converter, fuse block, and breaker panels near each other, creating a centralized power distribution center.

As it stands right now, I'd have to do a LOT of re-wiring to achieve that, so it will probably remain (roughly) as-is. For you, I think you should think about where the old battery was, see if there's room for the converter/charger nearby, and see if you can live with that set-up.

Unless you're stripping the whole thing down to nothing more than an external shell. Then you can do whatever you like!

-Marcus

BarryIowa · 08-14-2008, 11:22 AM

One thing I lucked out on: I have an International model so many of my light, fans, etc. run on both 110 and 12 volt.

62overlander · 08-14-2008, 11:35 AM

Barry, your trailer(and mine) had a tractor battery in that box up front. I ran an outlet next to the fuse box and plugged in the converter (Intellipower 45amp, $113 new on ebay) I have my battery there too. To get the old 12 volt going it is easy. Off the positive lead put an inline fuse, then run it up to the lamp above the twin and splice it in to the orange. Run a wire off the negative battery post to the skin, and presto they will all come on.

Overlander & Sea · 08-14-2008, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 62-Lander

One thing I lucked out on: I have an International model so many of my light, fans, etc. run on both 110 and 12 volt.

My '61 Overlander is also an International model. Like yours, it has both the 110v & 12v. Most lights (ex the porch) have two light bulbs, 110v & 12v. The old fans ran on 110v and/or 12v.

My question is:
When you replaced your roof fan with a new motor, but kept the old style, did you wire it though the old transformer so it would work on both 110v & 12v? The old motor on my stove fan was stamped AC/DC, so I was wondering if your new motor worked on 110v? Just curious.............

On mine, the PO owner replaced the roof fan & I replaced the furnance & I replaced the stove vent fan motor. All now are 12v only motors.