Mint Condition 64 - Should I change anything?

[robwok]

Did I mention that I have a 2" stack of original paperwork? Apparently, the first and second owners were as meticulous as accountants. Instructions for all the appliances and the warranty's. That, and one of the drawers had about 8 or so boxes of all the little light bulbs. Let me know if anyone needs a photocopy.

I'm still waiting to find a love letter from Wally Byam to J. Paul Getty's wife stuffed in a drawer somewhere.

[overlander64]

Greetings robwok!

Welcome to the world of Vintage Overlander ownership!

Originally Posted by robwok

The only other items are replacing the goucho cushions because they were latex and have hardened, and the previous owner pulled up the linoleum tiles to put down another floor.

I found much the same when I purchased my '64 Overlander in 1995. The only thing was that the "flipper" from whom I purchased mine thought that it would be a wonderful idea to install full-contact-glued-down indoor-outdoor carpeting -- I don't like to think about the mess that removing that ugly indoor-outdoor carpeting became.

Originally Posted by robwok

As you can see, it's pristine. I even have this super fragile outdoor lamp. I pulled the awning down today. I think it was installed, and never used - some time in 89.

The porch lamps are a comparably rare accessory or option. They can create quite a conversation piece when at a a Rally or while on a Caravan.

The awning appears to be either an A & E or Carefree. In either case, the awning arms are something to be careful with as they can be nearly impossible to find with the proper curvature for our Vintage coaches.

Originally Posted by robwok

So, here's the question. What can I do that won't affect the value (as if my wife would ever let me sell it now)

You have quite a time-capsule there with a number of well-preserved original features -- those that are of particular note would include:

• The wheel covers appear to be original or very near vintage correct. The original hubcaps or wheel covers that my coach had were long gone by the time that I acquired it from the "flipper" -- I do know that mine originally had split-rims and was converted to standard truck-type wheels around 1969.
• The kitchen appears to be very well preserved. It appears that your coach must be an International. If I am not mistaken, I see the separate faucet that was connected to the International's water purification filter that was mounted below the kitchen counter.
• If you are lucky, you will find a second sink cover to match the one that is in the photo. They were sold in pairs (at least that was what I was told), and they come in very handy given the modest amount of counterspace in the Overlander's galley.
• Your's is one of the first '64 Overlander Internationals that I have encountered with the white oven door - - its seems like a large number of them were equipped with "toast" colored oven doors -- I don't know whether this difference could be attributed to positioning of the coach in the year's production run or if it could be a difference based upon plant of manufacture (California or Ohio).
• Your refrigerator appears to be original. So often, if the original refrigerator has been replaced, the original cutlery drawer is lost as most of the modern replacement refrigerators are enough taller than the original that removal of the drawer is necessary in order to keep from blocking the electrical, television, and antenna outlets.
• Your drop-leaf table is definitely original, and you will likely find that there are hooks to secure the table for travel just below the pop-up leaf on the cabinet that contains the range. The stand-alone drop-leaf table is among my favorite features of my Overlander - - it is so wonderful to have as a dining table below the patio awning.
• The comfort panel on the bedroom ceiling is another unusual feature of the '64 Internationals (it was a feature that saw limited production during the early 1960s). The panel does dampen some noise and probably offers a very modest amount of thermal protection. It was one of the features that I insisted had to be preserved on my coach. I did replace the matching comfort panels on the bedroom walls in my coach with new panels as the originals had nicotine stains that just refused to be removed.
  • 
• You are very fortunate to find a coach with bathroom fixtures in such pristing condition. I thought that I was doing well with my coach, but its fixtures were badly faded and had significant yellowing that was not attractive on the avacado green.
• • 
• The good news is, however, that a professional bathroom refinisher can also refinish our Airstream bathrooms. I had a local refinsher refinish mine and change the color to antique platinum.
• 
• You are very fortunate to have the original bench surrounding the toilet. It seems that this has been lost in the majority of our era coaches as modern replacement toilets are difficult to find that will fit within the confines of the original bench. Unfortunately, mine was quite cobbled up by the "flipper" who tried to install a modern replacement toilet -- fortunately, Arlene and Henry Fowler of Fowler RV Interiors were able to make the "flipper's nightmare" a little less obvious as can be seen in this photo:
• 
• Your coach tends to confirm that a feature that I had assumed to be owner-added was likely a factory installation. I always thought that the toilet tissue holde seemed to be in such an unusual location - - but your coach has its holder in exactly the same location so my thinking is that it must be a factory feature.
• You are very fortunate to have the original tongue-mounted spare tire with holder. The "flipper" from whom I purchased my coach thought that mounting the spare on the rear bumper was a more attractive solution - - I ended up with separation and a $3,000 repair a couple of years following my purchase in 1995.
• The whip-style radio antenna and television antenna also lead me to believe that your coach is likely an International model. You will likely find an original tube-type automotive radio in the front overhead locker (streetside) or the wiring and antenna lead for the installation of a radio. The 300-ohm television antenna lead should terminate in a 12-volt power outlet that also houses the amplified antenna outlet above your refrigerator.

Originally Posted by robwok

It road very well with no bouncyness, so I think the axles are fine, but haven't had the time to get to spend underneath. I'd like to put click lock linoleum floors in, but I don't need to pull the cabinets, so I'll fit up to the cabinets then use the trim that's used everywhere else to hide the seams.

Unless you are determined to maintain originality, most restorers/refurbishers utilize modern floor coverings of their preference. For the most part, it is a change that is comparatively easy to reverse if you decide to return to a more original floor covering.

Originally Posted by robwok

My wife wants to replace the counter tops. By the way, the table matches them exactly, so that must be original.

This is one part of the coach's original fabric that can't be replicated in today's materials. They appear to be in very good condition, and I suspect that the opinion of most restorers/refurbishers would be to keep the original coverings. I kept the original surfaces in my Overlander, but the top on my drop-leaf table was damaged so Arlene and Henry Fowler created a gorgeous replacement top from hand-glued oak strips:

Originally Posted by robwok

The CB antenna seems to have been added, but not sure. I am considering removing that as well as the TV antenna.

The radio and television antennas were both imporant features of the International packages. They are both features that you may find quite useful when camping in the trailer. I just wish that the "flipper" would have left my original TV antenna on the coach -- it creates a certain ambiance that the modern Bat-Wing antenna doesn't afford. The radio antenna produces wonderful AM and FM reception - - and it can't be beat for the CB Communications when attending a Wally Byam Caravan Club International Rally.

Originally Posted by robwok

Any suggestions on what I can add or remove that will increase or dramatically decrease the value would be appreciated. I don't want to do anything foolish.

It is a shame in a way... I'm an accomplished cabinet and furnituremaker. I had hoped to be able to customize this, but it looks like I'm just preserving a museum quality piece.

In a way, I believe that you have answered your own questions. Today, it is very, very unusual to find a pristine forty-six-year-old Airstream coach. Your coach has almost all of the often missing features present and in apparently very good condition -- something that will make your Overlander the hit of a Vintage Open House.

Originally Posted by robwok

My wife says I can buy a junk one and mess with that one, but she wants to keep this a period piece with period colors and textiles. I also left the original steel tanks with the guy I bought it from. I plan on going with the new aluminum ones. Was that a big mistake? I know there's a little more money involved, but I do plan to shine this bugger up.

I don't think that you will have too much trouble finding a good candidate for the rebuild that you envision. When I was looking in the early 1990s, I could only locate one very nice original coach for every ten that I found for sale -- the hardest part will be finding one that is realistically priced for its condition.

Good luck with your Overlander.

Kevin

[robwok]

Kevin, thanks for your message. Yes, last night I went out and found the international plate on the outside. There is a crazy water filter under the sink, and yes, I did find the other sink cover. There is a tiny amount of burning on an edge where it looks like someone got it too close to the stove.

The color is not white - it is actually a mint green / aqua color. It's very pretty.

The cover on the toilet seat and the green vinyl curtains that close off the bedroom area are all working and there are no cracks in the vinyl.


A lot of the parts, like the ones you had that surrounded the toilet are all made out of fiberglass. I'm surprised no one is making these fiberglass parts for you. You can make the base, and cover it with a gel coat and you have an exact replacement. I could even make these parts. I was talking to my wife about making replacement goucho couches. I also wanted to design some pocket doors for anyone that wanted to use those instead of the curtains, but didn't know if there was a market for that.

The more people comment, the more we realize what an amazing find we were fortunate to come by.

[robwok]

Not sure if people are still reading this - but I also have all 4 original hubcaps. They are steel and stamped airstream. I think someone painted them silver. I guess the right thing to do is have them sandblasted and re-chromed? Since these are split rims, is there a way to ensure my new wheels can take the hubcaps, or should I not bother.

[Stefrobrts]

Neat trailer you've got there - what a find! I am of the opinion that there's no point in keeping something original if you hate it (like orange countertops) or if it doesn't work (like old furnaces). So my trailer has some new stuff, but nothing that really jumps out at people when they look around. And it's all functional and we enjoy it and use it a lot. Enjoy making your little changes to make it functional and comfortable, but you've got a real gem there

[vswingfield]

Originally Posted by robwok

Not sure if people are still reading this - but I also have all 4 original hubcaps. They are steel and stamped airstream. I think someone painted them silver. I guess the right thing to do is have them sandblasted and re-chromed? Since these are split rims, is there a way to ensure my new wheels can take the hubcaps, or should I not bother.

Still reading. The hubcaps are very nice. Someone has a set in the Classifieds right now, and they were the first set like that I had seen. Yours are the second. I like them very much, a whole lot better than any other Airstream hubcaps I have seen. Wish I had a half-dozen of them!

Ok, when it comes time for new tires, I'll go aluminum wheels on my Excella. Which brings us back to the original thread. I've always been pretty much in the make it like you want it camp. My Trade Wind was far from complete when I got it. While my Excella was extremely original, I just can't get that excited about preserving the 1983 fake wood. I'm slowly redoing it inside.

Yours on the other hand is really something. I vote for keeping it as original as possible, read that, you can use it without much work and make everyone green with envy. There are plenty of ones that need work and are perfect for upgrading and customizing. Like the vintage car people say, "It's only original once."

[robwok]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Something to think about.

Should you make that plate, and install a small AC, what will you do with the window?

Next an adequate, small AC for your 26 foot Airstream, should be 10,000 or better yet a 12,000 BTU AC, or even more if your going to be in hot weather.

Next, how will you move the air, from the back to the front, or from the front to the back of the trailer? That's in part why the AC's are installed near the center,

If you install the AC in the side of the trailer, you will be over width.

If you want to install it in the rear, how will you support it? If you add vertical supports from the frame, you will then create, in short order, "rear end separation", which becomes an expensive issue to correct.

Then, if the AC is in the rear window, the axles better be in pristene condition AND the running gear "MUST BE" properly balanced "always".

But, if the AC is installed in the rear window, you could remove it each time you wanted to move the trailer, and set it on the floor up front.

Then, finally, if you want to keep the Airstream "original" then why a window AC? That certainly will lower the trailers value.

Andy

I didn't see this comment. No, when I mean a portable A/C, I'm talking about the kind where the entire unit is in the room. They are usually on wheels, and the heat is exhausted out of a 4" plastic dryer duct-type hose. It does not sit in the window. Amazon.com: SPT WA-9020E 9,000-BTU Portable Air Conditioner with Remote Control: Kitchen & Dining I would basically just take a piece of plexiglass that is the same size as a side window. Then, cut a hole in the center. Open the window and the exaust would blow through a circle 4" in diameter through the screen. That means I never have to cut a hole in the roof, and I only need to put this in the trailer in the summer. The condensate is trapped in a pan that can be poured out.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by robwok

Not sure if people are still reading this - but I also have all 4 original hubcaps. They are steel and stamped airstream. I think someone painted them silver. I guess the right thing to do is have them sandblasted and re-chromed? Since these are split rims, is there a way to ensure my new wheels can take the hubcaps, or should I not bother.

CAUTION

Split rims are very dangerous and were outlawed many years ago.

Why, you might ask.

Because the split ring can break, fly off, and kill someone.

Andy

[rideair]

robwok,

Do a quick search under my posts and you will find how I put an A/C unit in the front window, with an awning type cover (hides it) will run off the 110v plug next to the front window, only takes five minutes to put in. We spent a week at the OBX this past summer in 90 degree heat, worked like a charm. I use a Fantasic Fan (Box Fav, 12v) to move the air front to back. There were many nights my wife and kids complained about it being to cold. Let me know if you need help,

[overlander64]

Greetings robwok!

Originally Posted by robwok

We actually have the original brown curtains that came with the trailer (in the bag on the floor next to the original table). I think we'll have those cleaned and sealed them away for when ugly brown becomes fashionable.

You may want to start by having just one pair cleaned. When I tried this with my original pinch-pleated draperies, they came back either in shreds or with thin spots where the sun had bleached the fabric over the years (they were 31 years old at the time).

Originally Posted by robwok

We even have the original goucho fabric, and have found a very similar fabric pattern in a new material. Maybe I'll have the original goucho fabric washed and turned into some pillows?

Your idea is certainly worth a try, but don't be too surprised if the fabric degrades considerably when laundered - - I had very poor luck with both dry-cleaning and laundry of the vintage fabrics that were in my coach when it came to live with me.

Originally Posted by robwok

I may have the original knobs re-chromed professionally though. May even do the same for the steel hubcaps. (really not sure what to do about that tv antenna though)

You may want to try polishing those knobs in place. The little knobs are quite easily damaged and were items that were imported and replacements are very difficult to find. The larger knobs (pantry and wardrobes) were/are aluminum that can be polished and I doubt would withstand chroming. The TV antenna is aluminum and can be polished like the trailer - - a member here on the Forums meticuously polished the OEM TV antenna on his 1968 Sovereign -- a real conversation starter. There was a discussion here on the Forums quite some time ago about truck style wheels with retainer clips that work with the vintage hubcaps from coaches with split-rims, but I don't remember the specifics of the source of those wheels with hubcap clips.

Originally Posted by robwok

I really wanted to find out what items were replaceable and what wasn't. You've all been very helpful. For example, I didn't know if the original furnace needed to stay or go. (I got a really good understanding on that one!) We do appreciate antiques and vintage items. We would never just start ripping things out, which is why I came to this forum to know what needed to be respected and what needed to be replaced.

Generally, the mechanicals that work in the background can be replaced without crossing any particular boundaries. As you have already read, the orginial furnace had a horrible reputation for heat exchanger failures such that it is automatically placed on the must replace list for coaches where the furnace will be needed. The added plus of a new furnace is that you will also get modern electronic ignition so you won't have to do head-stands to light the pilot. The one caveat that goes with replacing the furnace and water heater is that you may want to preserve the original exterior flue covers and adapt them for the new appliances (this is the preference today, but was less so in 1995 when I was prepping my coach for use so it has modern flue covers -- I lost the furnace flue cover with an accidental encounter with a fence post so it was a lost cause when replacement time arrived). The Univolt became a standard feature in 1964, but it isn't particularly good at charging or maintaining the battery -- it has a horrible reputation for boiling the electrolyte and killing batteries (another item that often becomes a must replace for coaches that will be utilized). The fresh water pump is one device that you may wish to preserve as when they are maintained, they last a very long time - - you can still purchase rebuild kits for these PAR water pumps; but the rebuild kits often must be ordered from Marine dealerships who deal in houseboats/yachts where the PAR is still often utilized.

Originally Posted by robwok

I do have one question - can anyone tell me anything about that lamp? I know it screws to the outside, but it is so light and delicate, I don't want to use it for normal use. Can I get a modern version?

The porch lamp was a common accessory of the 1950s and 1960s - - and possibly into the early 1970s. These fixtures were not unique to Airstream - - my family had one on a 1969 SunWay truck camper and our neighborst had one on a 1968 BeeLine travel trailer. So far as I am aware, they haven't been in regular production for nearly three decades. About a year ago, someone was reproducing thes porch lamps and selling them through either an E-Bay or Amazon.com shop, I tried a search and didn't turn anything up today. I purchased one of these reproduction lights when they were offered and it is packed away in the box in which it was shipped - - I am still unpacking after a stressful move but will post the contact details for the source of that lamp if and when I run across its packing crate.

I am nearly certain that the lamp that you have is a later fixture. The unit that was contemporary with our '64 Overlanders had a much less eloborate shade.

Enjoy your time capsule!!

Kevin

[overlander64]

Greetings robwok!

Originally Posted by robwok

For insurance purposes, does anyone have a ballpark on what I should insure it for? (I realize this is not what I could/would sell it for - I just want to put a policy on it in case a tree falls or it's destroyed when we travel with it). Also, any recommendations on who to insure it? I have state farm now, and since I've been with them forever, my policies are pretty reasonable.

You will almost certainly need an appraisal as you approach potential insurers. What you will want is an agreed value policy. Without agreed value, you are at the mercy of adjusters who have no concept of the value of a vintage car let alone a vintage Airstream. The appraisal on my coach was somewhat below what I had spent on restoration as I contracted for the vast majority of the work. Fowler RV Interiors (Arlene and Henry Fowler) completed 95% of the interior restoration. Ace Fogdall RV handled 95% of the mechanical restoration. P & S Trailer Service (The Ruths) completed 95% of the exterior restoration. Following restoration, I had an appraisal performed and was able to negotiate an agreed value policy for the appraised value (about $4,000 less than the total cost of restoration). I expected the difference as the longer Airstreams don't have demand driven prices like the Bambis and Caravels.

I, too, have been with State Farm for more than 30 years, but experience with their stated value collector car insurance in the late 1980s made me steer clear of trying for an agreed or state value policy through them on my Airstream. Initially, I went with American Family Insurance with an agreed value policy and was satisfied with their coverage even after a claim following a nasty encounter with a campground gate -- but my policy was promptly cancelled following the claim. Today, I am with Foremost, but they don't have a great reputation with claims on Vintage and I have yet to make a claim on either of my policies.

Enjoy your Overlander!

Kevin

[overlander64]

Greetings robwok!

Originally Posted by robwok

I drove it about 40 miles, and though I didn't see a soft rolling motion, it didn't bounce around very much. It was much easier than pulling my dad's 30 foot rv. Also, passing other people on the road didn't cause the panic that I used to endure seeing the trailer recover from the wind friction.

Unfortunately, the rubber rods in the Henschen axles degrade from age, lack of use, as well as high mileage. I know that the axles on my Overlander have very little travel remaining and will have to be replaced in the very near future. When compared to towing a box-type travel trailer, an Airstream rides smoothly and tracks superbly even with worn axles -- the problems will begin appearing in the form of popped interior rivets when traveling over the road with worn axles -- cabinet doors will also become nearly impossible to keep closed causing their contents to be dumped on the floor when in-transit.

Originally Posted by robwok

As far as countertops. How about I just store the old ones somewhere and give them to a new owner.

What you propose is exactly what the original owner of my Minuet did whenever he removed any of the original equipment from the Minuet. When I purchased the Minuet, I had a Suburban load of various pieces that had been removed from the coach and replaced with something more to the owner's liking. To me, this wasn't a problem and made returning the coach to its original configuration much easier.

Originally Posted by robwok

Where exactly do you draw the line here? Do the traditionalists keep using the latex matresses too? Repair the copper instead of putting in pex? There has to be a line there somewhere.

Each owner answers this question a little differently as there are so many potential variables. For me, I knew that the coach would be with me for the rest of my traveling life so I wasn't particularly concerned about resale -- rather I wanted to preserve my memories dating back to the day the coach was new (it was special ordered by friends of my family in 1964). I didn't hesitate to upgrade mechanicals or anything relating to safety.

Originally Posted by robwok

I want to use the trailer. I think the repairs need to be in an order. #1. Safety. Replace the axles. I sent an email to Colin already. I'll replace the tires as well. #2. Hidden functionality. I plan on replacing the light bulbs with LED possibly, and the wooden goucho slides with 500 lbs metal glides possibly. The copper replaced with pex. The only other thing I thought would be nice would be to replace the aluminum hinge locks with european stay open hinges.

You are anticipating projects that I have planned as well. When I place my order for new axles, I am planning to upgrade to disc brakes as well since I frequently tow my Overlander with either my 1965 Dodge Coronet 500 Convertible or my 1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible. The drum brakes are sufficient with a truck-based tow vehicle, but I feel a bit more at ease with the discs when towing with a vintage automobile in today's traffic.

You may find the LED lighs aren't practical in the original fixtures. These fixtures have minimal room for the LED arrays. The reproduction lenses available from Inland RV will make a huge amount of difference in the available light - - I installed these new lenses throughout my coach and they made a tremendous difference.

The new lounge hardware shouldn't be objectionable to any future owners. I convert the lounge into a bed so infrequently in my Overlander that the original oak glides serve their purpose well.

The new hinges are another area where most would never notice the difference. I haven't had good luck with any of the "stay-open" hinges that I have tried so I have been pleased with the simplicity of the original Airstream design. You may be surprised by the ingenuity of many of the design features in your Overlander once you have traveled in it for a few days.

Originally Posted by robwok

Any thoughts on the floor? Would the purists glue down linoleum tiles again?

Since flooring is one of the areas that even the original owners often changed, there isn't a huge body of evidence to suggest that a change will be detrimental to the value of anything other than a museum piece coach. Currently, my Overlander has seamless Armstrong Congoleum vinyl floor covering - - it was installed in 2003, and I am very pleased with both its appearance and durability. You will also find that some owners go with carpeting while other go with retro square tiles - - my take is that personal preference and design style take precedence with this decision as it is something that is comparatively easy to chage.

Enjoy your Overlander!

Kevin

[overlander64]

Greetings robwok!

Originally Posted by robwok

Actually, I was looking at just getting one of those small portable AC's. I can just plug it in, and make a small plate for one of the windows. That way I don't have to worry about roof penetration, and if it goes bad, it's just another $100 off Craigslist.

I know of a number of Vintage Airstreamers who utilize this approach when they don't need Air Conditioning for the majority of their trips (most live in the upper elevations of the Rocky Mountains). Something to consider if you anticipate needing air conditioning during the majority of your trips, as I do, is that a portable air conditioner must be secured and stored somewhere - - and I suspect that it may become something of an aggravation wherever it might be stored.

Air conditioning was a factory option in 1964, see this link. The OEM roof-mounted air conditioner would have been an Armstrong BayBreeze. My Overlander had one of these factory installed and it was installed in an opening that had to be cut just to the rear of the front bulkhead entry into the center bedroom. The electrical cable was factory installed, but the condesate drain wasn't. Unlike later models where the condesate drain is routed through the wall cavity, the condesate drain rain along the bulkhead and followed the bulkhead to the point where the drain exited through the floor. Due to my lack of knowledge at the time, I killed my Armstrong's compressor by trying to operate it on a 15 AMP household circuit shortly after I purchased the coach - - I now have a Coleman Mach III roof air conditioner on the coach.

Enjoy your Overlander!

Kevin

[overlander64]

Greetings robwok!

Originally Posted by robwok

I don't know how this is happening, but we are considering a second one that is in salvage. Is this some kind of weird medical condition brought on by exposure to aluminum and zolatone paint?

As the robot on Lost in Space may have said in such a situation, "WARNING Will Robinson, Warning . . . . . it looks like we have another victim of aluminitis (or one of its variants)." The next step in the progress of the condition is the undeniable urge to purchase a like-vintage vehicle to pull your Airstream.

Kevin

[robwok]

Originally Posted by overlander64

Greetings robwok!


Air conditioning was a factory option in 1964, see this link. The OEM roof-mounted air conditioner would have been an Armstrong BayBreeze. My Overlander had one of these factory installed and it was installed in an opening that had to be cut just to the rear of the front bulkhead entry into the center bedroom. The electrical cable was factory installed, but the condesate drain wasn't. Unlike later models where the condesate drain is routed through the wall cavity, the condesate drain rain along the bulkhead and followed the bulkhead to the point where the drain exited through the floor. Due to my lack of knowledge at the time, I killed my Armstrong's compressor by trying to operate it on a 15 AMP household circuit shortly after I purchased the coach - - I now have a Coleman Mach III roof air conditioner on the coach.

Enjoy your Overlander!

Kevin

Kevin:

How would you suggest my handling the condensate drain now? Are you saying it runs down on the inside? Is it even possible to snake it down the side without removing the inside skin?

[robwok]

Originally Posted by overlander64

Greetings robwok!



As the robot on Lost in Space may have said in such a situation, "WARNING Will Robinson, Warning . . . . . it looks like we have another victim of aluminitis (or one of its variants)." The next step in the progress of the condition is the undeniable urge to purchase a like-vintage vehicle to pull your Airstream.

Kevin

I actually started listening to the VAP podcast this morning on the way to work, and that popped into my head. I'm a little scared now.

[overlander64]

Greetings robwok!

Originally Posted by robwok

I'm still trying to understand the numbers. Here in VA, if you have just numbers on your plate, anything under 2000 has to be assigned by the govenor personally. People keep waiting for someone to die so they can get the next plate with a lower number. 2616 seems to be a pretty low number, but I don't know. Do you get new sticker, or paint the old ones with red paint? What are the rules on the numbers?

The large numbers that appear on either end of many Airstream coaches are Wally Byam Caravan Club International membership numbers. The numbers are assigned to the owner and not the coach so are "technically" supposed to be removed prior to the sale of a coach. Owners with multiple coaches attach the same numbers to each of their coaches unless they wish to purchase individual memberships for each of their coaches. Once an owner stops paying annual dues, the membership number will be reassignes -- usually after a period of two years or more. When a member retires, his or her number may be reassigned to a new member with the retiring members permission prior to the passage of two years. It is also possible to request a particular number (1000 or greater as the 3-digit and lower numbers are reserved for International officers) and the request is typically honored if the number is inactive and available. You will receive directions from the Wally Byam Caravan Club International regarding placement of the numbers and decals when you receive your membership packet.

Originally Posted by robwok

I plan on taking the antenna off just so it doesn't grab anything or fall off - or is it cool to have it on when you pull into an airstream only rally?

I would encourage you to leave both antennas where they are. My coach has traveled in excess of 200,000 miles in its 47 years of travel and neither the television antenna nor the radio antenna have been damaged through travel. The whip tie-down above the living room window prevents it from getting caught in trees and permits almost immediate setup for radio reception. I strongly suspect that attaching-removing-reattaching will present more long-term problems than allowing for the designed functionality.

Originally Posted by robwok

I have a 10 year old son. I plan on having him watch the original Karate kid movie, then give him a pile of old diapers and the polish and say "wax off grasshopper".

You may find that your coach has the remnants of Plasti-Coat on its skin. Plasti-Coat was a factory option (see link) that was just short of $2.00 per foot of trailer length - - as an example of what inflation has done - - re-Plasti-Coating your coach would run from $175 to $250 per foot. Since I knew that I wasn't up to the rigors of annual polishing, I chose to have the Ruths of P & S Trailer Service polish my coach to "original luster" with Plasti-Coat - - in 2003 the cost of the polish and Plasti-Coat was equivalent to the original price paid for the trailer by its original owners in 1964. Eight years later, I am still thrilled with the results and my maintenance amounts to two coats of Walbernize each year.

This is my '64 Overlander as it appeared in mid-December 2009:



I did purchase new Worthington Aluminum LP Gas tanks and the Ruth's polished them to the near mirror finish at the same time that the coach was completed -- the tanks weren't Plasti-Coated as it was thought to be too easily damaged in routine handling when refilling the tanks - - the tanks are 40 pound units. I went with 40 pound units so I could make it most, if not all, of the searon without having to refill the LP tanks.




Enjoy your Overlander!

Kevin

[overlander64]

Greetings robwok!

Originally Posted by robwok

Kevin:

How would you suggest my handling the condensate drain now? Are you saying it runs down on the inside? Is it even possible to snake it down the side without removing the inside skin?

The drain tube is very inconspicuous. It exits the interior air conditioner shroud on the bedroom side of the bulkhead and is attached to the bulkhead it continues along the bulkhead and a hole is drilled in the roof locker to allow the tube to pass through the roof locker where it proceeds to the bottom of the roof locker where another hole is drilled permitting the tube to exit agains the wood blukhead that it follows to the floor where the tube exits the floor and then the bellypan. Air conditioning was a comparatively expensive option (nearly 10% of the base price of the coach prior to options), and I suspect that the minor issue of the surface mounted drain tube wasn't considered to be a negative since it was associated with a rather prestigious option. When I had to switch over to the Coleman air conditioner, I chose not to go with a condesate drain and the condesate drains on the roof as in most other RVs -- this doesn't pose a particular problem with my Plasti-Coated coach, but the condesate does stain non-PlastiCoated coaches. By the mid-to-late 1960s, the built-in condesate tube became standard and it was totally concealed within the roof and walls.

Enjoy your Overlander!

Kevin

[overlander64]

Greetings robwok!

Originally Posted by robwok

I actually started listening to the VAP podcast this morning on the way to work, and that popped into my head. I'm a little scared now.

The force often becomes even greater when you start seeing photos of coaches similar to yours with their vintage tow vehicles. I have the addition "disadvantage" of remembering my coach's original tow vehicles. At one time, I had a vintage 1970 photo of my Overlander with its then brand-new tow vehicle - - a 1970 Mercury Monerey Coupe with the largest V8 that Mercury offered that year - - it was a gorgeous emerald green with matching vinyl upholstery and a white vinyl top.

Enjoy your Overlander!

Kevin

P.S.: This is another 1970 photo of my Overlander - - but its towcar isn't in the shot:

[robwok]

Originally Posted by overlander64

Greetings robwok!



The drain tube is very inconspicuous. It exits the interior air conditioner shroud on the bedroom side of the bulkhead and is attached to the bulkhead it continues along the bulkhead and a hole is drilled in the roof locker to allow the tube to pass through the roof locker where it proceeds to the bottom of the roof locker where another hole is drilled permitting the tube to exit agains the wood blukhead that it follows to the floor where the tube exits the floor and then the bellypan.
Enjoy your Overlander!

Kevin

Thanks Kevin. Is it possible anyone in the forum has a picture of this? I may keep with my original plans for now of just a portable AC that rolls around in the room, but if that doesn't work this season, I may go with the other. Right now, I'm just trying to learn as much as possible, then assemble my materials and parts in the garage so they're ready the first warm day I get.

Rob