Yes you can
You need to have your trailer brakes adjusted to the right setting. Too much trailer brake puts undue stress on the trailer and can cause adverse handling in skids and slippery roads.
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Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain- WoZ
Yes you can
You need to have your trailer brakes adjusted to the right setting. Too much trailer brake puts undue stress on the trailer and can cause adverse handling in skids and slippery roads.
That's part of the problem.
Typically, a very small percentage of Airstream owners, have the brakes adjusted and/or serviced as they should be.
Since wear reduces the stopping power of electric brakes, further reducing the stopping power by changing from 12 to 10 inch brakes, is not a very good idea.
We see all to many brakes systems, that make you wonder how someone slowed the rig down, let alone stopping it when they needed to.
Totally agree with having enough stopping power, would be foolish not to. Question for Andy: What specific axles and brakes is Airstream putting on current tandem-axle trailers with a GVWR similar to '60's and '70's Overlanders (6200#)? What brand? #10 or #11 axles? Weight capacity? Size of brakes? Pounds of total braking power? I think this would be useful information to those here wanting to intelligently replace their old axles. Thankyou! -tim
I've had multiple PM's from folks asking me to clarify the statement about not getting the "side-mount bracket". Hopefully this PDF file from Dexter will help explain: http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/Torfl...ation_4-04.pdf.
Look at page 21 (for #10) and page 24 (for #11). The side mount bracket is reduntant and not needed unless you are switching from a leaf spring set-up to torsion. IMPORTANT! - You still must specify reverse mount for installing on an Airstream.
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I have found that 10-inch brakes work extremely well with my 6000-pound rig. Like weight-transfer bars and horsepower, more is not necessarily better or best.
Yes you can
You need to have your trailer brakes adjusted to the right setting. Too much trailer brake puts undue stress on the trailer and can cause adverse handling in skids and slippery roads.
Of course, and I agree with you (adjustment wise), but I will take 12 inch electric brakes over 10 inch electric brakes every single time. The proper set-up is of course the tow and trailer brakes work in tandem, not either one stopping the other. My comment is not meant to be a "manufacturer axle war comment". Brakes are not the place to save pennies and thus dollars, again, IMHO. If you're ok with 10 inch brakes, that is great, although I would kindy ask that you not follow too close behind me coming down a mountain road.
__________________ "I've got aluminum fever, and the only prescription, is more AIRSTREAM!!!"
Still hoping for a reply from InlandRV, or Airstream, on the specific axles and brakes used on current similar-weight tandem-axle trailers. Hello??
Andy's scenario is indeed scary, I am imagining a screaming family in a Suburban @ 70mph with a trailer in flames behind them, headed right for a day-care center. I think it would be in flames because trying to NOT lock up the trailer brakes in that kind of a panic situation would be difficult for most people, causing the tires to skid, and catch on fire. In the event you could feather those brakes, and never skid, I totally agree with the man: bigger brakes will last longer and give you a bigger chance of avoiding all those innocent kids at the bottom of the hill. As with many other things, I think the driver's reaction and skill play a big part in any situation, as well as the obvious choices of maintaining some vigilance over the condition of your TV brakes and other mechanicals, gearing down to a prudent speed at the crest of passes, knowing where the parking brake handle or pedal is, etc. I certainly hope that no-one encounters the aforementioned scenario, but if you do- please try to swerve around me. Thankyou- tim
Typically, a very small percentage of Airstream owners, have the brakes adjusted and/or serviced as they should be.
Since wear reduces the stopping power of electric brakes, further reducing the stopping power by changing from 12 to 10 inch brakes, is not a very good idea.
We see all to many brakes systems, that make you wonder how someone slowed the rig down, let alone stopping it when they needed to.
Andy
Ten inch tandem brakes have a maximum stopping power of 7,000 pounds, when everything is adjusted and working properly.
Twelve inch brakes, under the same conditions, have a maximum stopping power of 12,000 pounds.
Makes a huge difference in stopping distance, should the tow vehicle brakes quit.
Adequate brakes on the trailer, can easily stop the tow vehicle as well.
Ten inch tandem brakes have a maximum stopping power of 7,000 pounds, when everything is adjusted and working properly.
Twelve inch brakes, under the same conditions, have a maximum stopping power of 12,000 pounds.
Makes a huge difference in stopping distance, should the tow vehicle brakes quit.
Adequate brakes on the trailer, can easily stop the tow vehicle as well.
Andy
Although in principle I agree, physics comes into play and puts a limit to the 'More is Better' discussion. A 5,000 lb trailer has an almost impossible time generating more than 5,000 lbs stopping force, even with 12,000 lbs of brakes at it's disposal. The coefficient of friction of the tires, specially trailer tires, wont typically even approach 1.0, limiting the stopping force to a value = the weight of the trailer axles.
12,000 lb brakes on a 500 lb small yard trailer behind a 8,000 lb suv with failed brakes is a good example of this fact of physics. It's ain't gonna stop too sporty. They will lock up at about 500 lbs stopping force on a perfect day (the day must not be perfect, your suv brakes have already failed...).
Now if someone was to ditch the Marathons for a set of super sticky dragster slicks on a hot rubber encrusted road we might be onto something.
Here's a pretty good article showing how a 5,000 lb trailer will be lucky to get 3,500 lbs of usable traction (5k * .7) this making a good argument that 12k brakes are overkill...
well now my post #36 makes no sense, because it referred to a post from InlandRV right before it (suddenly no longer there) wherein the scary scenario of losing all the TV brakes was presented, the argumant being that bigger brakes would save the day. HiHoAgRV more eloquently makes the point I was trying to make- if you're skidding, brake size is out of the equation. I guess when posts start to get pulled, it's time for the thread to retire- thank you all for some good info, I think I'm set to put in my order. -tim
Totally agree with having enough stopping power, would be foolish not to. Question for Andy: What specific axles and brakes is Airstream putting on current tandem-axle trailers with a GVWR similar to '60's and '70's Overlanders (6200#)? What brand? #10 or #11 axles? Weight capacity? Size of brakes? Pounds of total braking power? I think this would be useful information to those here wanting to intelligently replace their old axles. Thankyou! -tim
I have no idea what Airstream is using on the trailers today.
I will be back on the 23rd.
But we must also keep in mind the weights of each unit.
I will see what I can find out and post accordingly.
snip..... IMPORTANT! - You still must specify reverse mount for installing on an Airstream.
I ordered a Dexter axle for my 67 Safari and it came with the brackets turned in but not reversed front to back. I found knock outs on the axle mounting plate that matched up closely to the holes on the axle brackets. It seems that Airstream was ready for the dexter replacement 41 years later.
...Makes a huge difference in stopping distance, should the tow vehicle brakes quit.
Adequate brakes on the trailer, can easily stop the tow vehicle as well.
Andy
ABSOLUTELY! My tandem 10" Dexters easily stop my Extended cab Dodge Ram
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. They will lock up at about 500 lbs stopping force on a perfect day (the day must not be perfect, your suv brakes have already failed...).
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