I am starting this thread in hopes of finding help, advise, wisdom and scrutiny of my renovation to Anna, my 1962 Overlander. I thought that this might an apropriate place to ask questions pertinant to my renovation. I must warn you though that I might ask some questions without using the search button first. Any input is great, you can even poke me with a stick if you like.
First question: Does anyone think that I can get the black tank out without removing the wardrobe? If I take out the toilet and vanity, will there be enough room to lift it from the right hand side to get it out?
It looks like only 1/4 of the tank is to left of the wardrobe. I am hoping to fix the rotten floor along the back wall and do not want to gut everything out of the trailer.
I am starting this thread in hopes of finding help, advise, wisdom and scrutiny of my renovation to Anna, my 1962 Overlander. I thought that this might an apropriate place to ask questions pertinant to my renovation. I must warn you though that I might ask some questions without using the search button first. Any input is great, you can even poke me with a stick if you like.
First question: Does anyone think that I can get the black tank out without removing the wardrobe? If I take out the toilet and vanity, will there be enough room to lift it from the right hand side to get it out? Attachment 49119
It looks like only 1/4 of the tank is to left of the wardrobe. I am hoping to fix the rotten floor along the back wall and do not want to gut everything out of the trailer.
If the wall is to the bottom of top part of the tank you will need to remove the wardrobe. I don't think you will be able to get enough angle to remove the tank without damaging things. Good luck!
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Lee
The more I learn the less I know!!
1973 F-250 4X4 390
1965 Chevy Suburban 454 AIR 6030 WBCCI 4258
There's not much to removing the wardrobe. Yank it out.
You will be happier working in a small space with as many things as possible out of the way.
The tank will most likely come out with the wardrobe in place, once you have removed the flange from the bottom, you can rotate it up and towards the center. But don't forget, the vent line and getting the toilet plumbing out of the way.
I'm with Uwe... take out the wardrobe. If it is installed like the cabinets in my '67 it will come out very easy. The toughest part was the #14 wood screws that were installed through the bottom rail of the face plate and into the floor. For some reason these would not break loose.
As long as you have the tank out you might consider replacing it with one that is larger... possibly extending the whole width of the wardrobe. You would need to raise your electrical supply box, but it would probably add 7 or 8 gals of capacity... just a thought.
Ok Frank... get that wardrobe out of there and start up the circular saw... hope it's solid under the tank!
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Rob, Zoe', Stanton, Bryce and Braedon Baker
WDCU President
Do you Listen to the www.theVAP.com
Plymouth, NY 13832 WBCCI #2820
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58 30' Sovereign of the Road: http://sweetsovereign.blogspot.com
65 17' Caravel, 54 22' Safari, 1959 Buick Electra
I am always looking for twice what I deserve... sorry that was an accidental miss posting.
I know that removing everything is the way to go. There is no doubt in my mind that it would make things so much easier. The problem with going too far is next spring will come and we will be back to tent camping. I know for a fact that the WBCCI does not recognize any tents except for the ones on the base camp... a tent would mean no more WDCU rallies and that is just not in the cards. I cannot afford a second trailer at this point and do not want to take her out of commission for too long. I need to once again do it the hard way. I will be jumping in to all this very soon, just need to get the leaks stopped and out comes the bathroom.
Maybe one of the WBCCI members with multiple trailers will loan me one for a year or so, then I would be able to do the full monty.
Keep the input coming I really appreciate it everyone.
so I have read about a lot of leaking windows and I have a quick, down and dirty way to stop those pesky leaks.
Blue tape is for temporary leak stoppages,for a more long term solution you can use aluminum tape. For a permanent solution, flashing tape is the ticket.
I have a plumbing question if anyone can help... where can I find the check valves that go on a 1 1/2" pipe. My shower drain will need one of these so that water from the grey tank cannot slosh back into the tub while driving. Is this a orange box item or will I need to go to a plumbing supply house?
Frank, I found one at my local Ace Hardware in 1.5 " diameter. It has a cubicle like ceter part that has a flapper one way valve. Seems like it was about 10 dollars or so. I will need one on my shower drain line as well so water cannot slosh back when driving/stopping.
Glad to see the drip cap made it. Ed
right on I knew it existed, but the guy at Lowes said it did not, kind of like the 46" drip cap. I have an ACE Hardware near me and will go there this morning. I still need to use some bolts and plates to keep the tank from being able to move, while still allowing it to be removed incase of a leak. I guess I also need to get some fittings and pipe. Making some serious forward progress now.
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