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Old 11-10-2007, 01:01 PM   #1
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Anna Lumanum's comeback

I am starting this thread in hopes of finding help, advise, wisdom and scrutiny of my renovation to Anna, my 1962 Overlander. I thought that this might an apropriate place to ask questions pertinant to my renovation. I must warn you though that I might ask some questions without using the search button first. Any input is great, you can even poke me with a stick if you like.

First question: Does anyone think that I can get the black tank out without removing the wardrobe? If I take out the toilet and vanity, will there be enough room to lift it from the right hand side to get it out?
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It looks like only 1/4 of the tank is to left of the wardrobe. I am hoping to fix the rotten floor along the back wall and do not want to gut everything out of the trailer.
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Old 11-10-2007, 01:45 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
I am starting this thread in hopes of finding help, advise, wisdom and scrutiny of my renovation to Anna, my 1962 Overlander. I thought that this might an apropriate place to ask questions pertinant to my renovation. I must warn you though that I might ask some questions without using the search button first. Any input is great, you can even poke me with a stick if you like.

First question: Does anyone think that I can get the black tank out without removing the wardrobe? If I take out the toilet and vanity, will there be enough room to lift it from the right hand side to get it out?
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It looks like only 1/4 of the tank is to left of the wardrobe. I am hoping to fix the rotten floor along the back wall and do not want to gut everything out of the trailer.
If the wall is to the bottom of top part of the tank you will need to remove the wardrobe. I don't think you will be able to get enough angle to remove the tank without damaging things. Good luck!
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Old 11-10-2007, 02:46 PM   #3
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There's not much to removing the wardrobe. Yank it out.
You will be happier working in a small space with as many things as possible out of the way.
The tank will most likely come out with the wardrobe in place, once you have removed the flange from the bottom, you can rotate it up and towards the center. But don't forget, the vent line and getting the toilet plumbing out of the way.
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Old 11-10-2007, 03:58 PM   #4
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I'm with Uwe... take out the wardrobe. If it is installed like the cabinets in my '67 it will come out very easy. The toughest part was the #14 wood screws that were installed through the bottom rail of the face plate and into the floor. For some reason these would not break loose.

As long as you have the tank out you might consider replacing it with one that is larger... possibly extending the whole width of the wardrobe. You would need to raise your electrical supply box, but it would probably add 7 or 8 gals of capacity... just a thought.

Keep your chin up
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Old 11-10-2007, 03:59 PM   #5
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I agree w/ Uwe

Ok Frank... get that wardrobe out of there and start up the circular saw... hope it's solid under the tank!
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Old 11-10-2007, 04:05 PM   #6
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Frank,

Looks like Anna has "come back" as twins! ...or are you looking for twice the advice. LOL!

I'm glad to see you are working on the trailer... is the yard work done???
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Old 11-10-2007, 06:38 PM   #7
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I am always looking for twice what I deserve... sorry that was an accidental miss posting.
I know that removing everything is the way to go. There is no doubt in my mind that it would make things so much easier. The problem with going too far is next spring will come and we will be back to tent camping. I know for a fact that the WBCCI does not recognize any tents except for the ones on the base camp... a tent would mean no more WDCU rallies and that is just not in the cards. I cannot afford a second trailer at this point and do not want to take her out of commission for too long. I need to once again do it the hard way. I will be jumping in to all this very soon, just need to get the leaks stopped and out comes the bathroom.
Maybe one of the WBCCI members with multiple trailers will loan me one for a year or so, then I would be able to do the full monty.
Keep the input coming I really appreciate it everyone.
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Old 11-13-2007, 06:02 PM   #8
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so I have read about a lot of leaking windows and I have a quick, down and dirty way to stop those pesky leaks.
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Blue tape is for temporary leak stoppages,for a more long term solution you can use aluminum tape. For a permanent solution, flashing tape is the ticket.
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Old 11-13-2007, 07:17 PM   #9
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I LOVE that Steve found a stick-poking smiley!

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Old 11-17-2007, 06:00 AM   #10
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Does anyone have a parts trailer or know asalvage yard where I might find a drip cap like this? It is 46" long...
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Old 01-12-2008, 05:28 PM   #11
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I have a plumbing question if anyone can help... where can I find the check valves that go on a 1 1/2" pipe. My shower drain will need one of these so that water from the grey tank cannot slosh back into the tub while driving. Is this a orange box item or will I need to go to a plumbing supply house?

Any input is welcome, please say what you feel.
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Old 01-12-2008, 05:57 PM   #12
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Frank, I found one at my local Ace Hardware in 1.5 " diameter. It has a cubicle like ceter part that has a flapper one way valve. Seems like it was about 10 dollars or so. I will need one on my shower drain line as well so water cannot slosh back when driving/stopping.
Glad to see the drip cap made it. Ed
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Old 01-12-2008, 06:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
where can I find the check valves that go on a 1 1/2" pipe.
You can purchase this one HERE ...or print the picture and take it to your local guy... then you can exercise your charming personality.

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Old 01-13-2008, 06:40 AM   #14
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right on I knew it existed, but the guy at Lowes said it did not, kind of like the 46" drip cap. I have an ACE Hardware near me and will go there this morning. I still need to use some bolts and plates to keep the tank from being able to move, while still allowing it to be removed incase of a leak. I guess I also need to get some fittings and pipe. Making some serious forward progress now.
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Old 01-13-2008, 06:48 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by 62overlander
right on I knew it existed, but the guy at Lowes said it did not, kind of like the 46" drip cap. I have an ACE Hardware near me and will go there this morning. I still need to use some bolts and plates to keep the tank from being able to move, while still allowing it to be removed incase of a leak. I guess I also need to get some fittings and pipe. Making some serious forward progress now.
Frank, the people at Ace were really great in helping me get the little fittings and bits for our Overlander. They even had the little window latches that hold the windows closed for travel in their "mobile home" section.
I'm sure you've already found it, but here's a link to the thread where we documented what we did to our '63:http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ect-16692.html
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Old 01-13-2008, 08:03 AM   #16
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Terry, I love ACE, they are the last of the caring hardware chain. I have read your thread and enjoyed it greatly. Any advice you want to share is greatly appreciated. I also appreciate you fairness and impartial moderation. Keep the comments coming.
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Old 01-13-2008, 08:26 AM   #17
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Frank,

I believe that Vintage Trailer Supply sells the drip caps you are looking for.

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Old 01-13-2008, 09:22 AM   #18
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Frank,I believe that Vintage Trailer Supply sells the drip caps you are looking for.
Steve,

They did, but the 46" is no longer available. Lucky for Frank, another forum member, Ed (n2batr) had a spare he had purchased while they were still available and offered it to Frank. Very nice of him!

BTW, on a similar subject, I had another forum member (Aluminati) help me out on that bath part I needed for my '67. Luckily, he is a little closer to me than MO. Another great story of generosity on the forum. I hope your were able to find a good home for your spare bath.
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Old 01-13-2008, 09:37 AM   #19
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I did a lot of searching for that drip cap and it kind of fell right into my lap. I should be installing it today, for the weather is great today here in Baltimore. The blue tape is keeping the leaks at bay, but I need to push forward on the welding and plumbing. I want to get that shell back together now and the drip cap will need to wait a few more weeks.

The inlets for my tank, they are something special are they not? That plastic need a special glue or is it the regular pvc cement? Ruby will steer me right at my local RV store. If any of you go to Baltimore, well Ruby at Charlies RV Center is super and treats her customers very well. They are not an Airstream dealer, but act as if they are. Top notch people with excellent service, what more could you ask for.
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Old 01-13-2008, 10:13 AM   #20
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Quote:
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The inlets for my tank, they are something special are they not? That plastic need a special glue or is it the regular pvc cement?
Frank,

For the inlets... use rubber grommets. I used the search function (yea right) and found my earlier post on the topic here. All you do is drill the correct size hole and "squish" them in - no adhesive required. They are available for 1 1/2", 2" and 3" pipe.

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