right on I knew it existed, but the guy at Lowes said it did not, kind of like the 46" drip cap. I have an ACE Hardware near me and will go there this morning. I still need to use some bolts and plates to keep the tank from being able to move, while still allowing it to be removed incase of a leak. I guess I also need to get some fittings and pipe. Making some serious forward progress now.
Frank, the people at Ace were really great in helping me get the little fittings and bits for our Overlander. They even had the little window latches that hold the windows closed for travel in their "mobile home" section.
I'm sure you've already found it, but here's a link to the thread where we documented what we did to our '63:A New Challenge-1963 Overlander rehab project
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Terry You repair things with tools. You fix things with a hammer.
AIR#2611
Terry, I love ACE, they are the last of the caring hardware chain. I have read your thread and enjoyed it greatly. Any advice you want to share is greatly appreciated. I also appreciate you fairness and impartial moderation. Keep the comments coming.
Frank,I believe that Vintage Trailer Supply sells the drip caps you are looking for.
Steve,
They did, but the 46" is no longer available. Lucky for Frank, another forum member, Ed (n2batr) had a spare he had purchased while they were still available and offered it to Frank. Very nice of him!
BTW, on a similar subject, I had another forum member (Aluminati) help me out on that bath part I needed for my '67. Luckily, he is a little closer to me than MO. Another great story of generosity on the forum. I hope your were able to find a good home for your spare bath.
I did a lot of searching for that drip cap and it kind of fell right into my lap. I should be installing it today, for the weather is great today here in Baltimore. The blue tape is keeping the leaks at bay, but I need to push forward on the welding and plumbing. I want to get that shell back together now and the drip cap will need to wait a few more weeks.
The inlets for my tank, they are something special are they not? That plastic need a special glue or is it the regular pvc cement? Ruby will steer me right at my local RV store. If any of you go to Baltimore, well Ruby at Charlies RV Center is super and treats her customers very well. They are not an Airstream dealer, but act as if they are. Top notch people with excellent service, what more could you ask for.
The inlets for my tank, they are something special are they not? That plastic need a special glue or is it the regular pvc cement?
Frank,
For the inlets... use rubber grommets. I used the search function (yea right) and found my earlier post on the topic here. All you do is drill the correct size hole and "squish" them in - no adhesive required. They are available for 1 1/2", 2" and 3" pipe.
I glue on from that grommet on ward right? Or is that also a friction fit? I haven't made it out to see Ruby yet, that will have to wait for tuesday when they open again. 1 1/2" is the size on all the drain lines, 3" is for the discharge from the tanks...
I glue on from that grommet on ward right? Or is that also a friction fit?
For a vent off the top of the tank it can be friction fit. You could add a hose clamp to make it more secure. The inlet at the toilet is 3" also... otherwise I used 1 1/2".
I did it the cheapo way. I got what is called a test plug for the drain. When under tow I put the test plug in the drain and turn the handle and it locks it in place. When we get where we're going take it out.
I'd rather not have a check valve in there. The tub is a good place for water or other stuff in the event of extra water needing to go somewhere.
It also keeps the rusty water from my original tub trap from sloshing back into my nicely refinished tub!
Just sounds like you are thinking outside of the box... just used Colin's KISS method. Why over think these things when a simpler solution presents itself... especially when it adds additional benefits.
If you change your mind though, you could bring your trailer along to CBR. I'll bring my sawzall and I'm sure Frank has a sledge hammer...we can do a check valve clinic. With Rob's Marine muscles and Colin's supervision we'll should have things all torn apart by the time you need to head for home. Then all you will have to do is put things back together. You can do a VAP episode on the experience "Episode 72, What are friends for...really?"
All kidding aside, you underestimate yourself... very smart solution!
Okay, the grommet.... I will be having an inlet from the top that serves as the vent and feed from the kitchen sink, that one is easy. I also will be feeding into the side with an inlet for the tub and vanity. It will be almost at the top of the tank. I am worried about that inlet being sealed so it does not leak. The capacity of the tank is 30 gallons and I realize I am going to loose some capacity, but not enough to worry about. The test seal Idea is great and it would give me more capacity there. These rubber grommets, would I glue to them or is it a friction fit with hose clamps? I will go and look at Tim's blog and see what I can glean.
On a similar note... The tank I bought has a lip running around it. This lip fits into the frame rails and cross member flanges almost perfectly. It fits so perfectly that you may install it it that channel, send a whole day fabricating a system to keep it up without moving, a restraint system that allows for easy removal of the tank incase of a problem. You might even be very proud if what you have come up with. Then the next day you might realize that now, because of having the tank under the cross member flanges, you cannot install the elevator bolts to hold the floor down. You might throw something when you realize how totally dull your rivet is or you might just laugh and get out the grinder to cut out everything you were so proud of a mere 12 hours before. Maybe this photo will demonstrate what I mean.
The edge of the plywood is on the cross member and the tank is up under the flange. Now it is not possible to install the elevator bolts. I thought of installing them upside down, but this is a seam in the plywood, and Anna has the bolts sharing the joint in some spots. I think it is better to just start over and do it right. Wally would do it that way.
you won't lose any capacity by having that tub/vanity inlet in the side. The lowest point in those vessels is higher than the higest part of the tank; water will fill the tank, even if it has to go down hill, and then back up hill to do it.
What did you wind up getting for a tank? from who? dimensions?
It will be almost at the top of the tank. I am worried about that inlet being sealed so it does not leak.
You do not have to drain the tub directly into the tank. The grey tank already has an outlet formed at the factory to which you will attach your 1 1/2" ABS running to the dump valve. What I am doing is draining the tub directly into the ABS by tapping into that pipe with standard fittings. If my explanation is clear as mud, give me a call and I'll explain it better.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
The edge of the plywood is on the cross member and the tank is up under the flange. Now it is not possible to install the elevator bolts.
The cross members are at 2'-0 c/c and your plywood will splice a every other crossmember so you should be able to move the crossmember that is not at a floor splice such that you will have room for the elevator bolts.
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