the tank is about 52.5"x 22"x 8.5" and is a 30 gallon. I bought it from RV Parts and Accessories for Sale in Houston. it is made by Ameri-Kart and is a stock item at PPL. It hangs down below the belly pan, but not enough to trouble me. It is actually hard to see behind the wheels. The size is also convenient with the distance between frame rails and cross members. I have tried since 10 am to upload one photo and I have not been successful. It is now 1 pm and I am giving up on the attachment. You can see a photo on my blog which is linked below.
Steve, it is already being done correctly. I have taken the day to correct my mistakes and the solution is better than the original try. Sometimes, the mistake is just a warm up for doing it right. I will be painting it up and trying again to upload some photos of the new tank restraint system. Thank you too for hooking me up with PPL RV, they are great to deal with, though I strongly suggest calling on a land line and not a cell phone, the que can be long to talk to someone.
Frank, way to go. I'll have to send you a photo of a 1975 Safari near me that has the dump pipe sticking down below the rear bumper. What a terrible design. Yours is far superior. I think being so close to the axle, the tank is pretty well protected. I couldn't tell from your blog, but is there any steel on the leading edge of the tank, where it's hanging down? I do a little boondocking and I think I'd be always wondering if that one big rock was going to take the tank out.
As far as esthetics go, I think the wheels will hide the valve and pipe. Take some side shots once you get the banana skins back on so we can see how visible it is.
Chuck, the photos do not show up well, sorry about that. I will try and explain. There is a 1.5" angle welded to one cross member. A long edge of the tank sits on it. the front of the tank is shoved into the frame rail and held tight by another angle welded in there. The remaining long edge is held of by a bar bolted up from below. the rear is bolted from cross member to cross member and keeps it wedged under the frame rail. I tried again to upload some photos, but there must be too much activity on the forums to allow it to happen I will try later.
Zep, the outlet and tank are well within a triangle created by the frame, wheel, and bumper. Steve suggested I do this so that no damage could occur if it was within that triangle. I am thinking of using a remote controlled valve so when some idiot passes on the right I can open the tank and give em a blast. I would think the tank is fairly safe from rocks, but if they are big enough to hit the axles, it might hit the tank. This tank would also dent before it would break. So where are we going boondocking Zep?
any thoughts on covering the tank with some sort of pan? It could provide a little space to hold some insulation, maybe add a little more protection from road debris, but mostly I'm thinking it would totally seal up the underside of the trailer to make it more mouse/critter-proof.
I currently have this water set up...
The old system had no tank. I have a 30 gallon on to install.This is all there is left. My question is this: I will have a water tank that is not pressurized. To fill it I should use a 1 1/4" fill pipe and a 3/8 vent off the top? This is gravity fed? And then have a separate city water connection? Is there a way to have one hook up and have a valve to fill the tank then bypass into the system? Can anyone help guide me here?
Thecatsandi recently did just that with her trailer, the thread is here http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...ade-36450.html
I would suggest that you still install a manual filler as well. You will need it if you are boondocking and have to fill from a water container.
... My question is this: I will have a water tank that is not pressurized. To fill it I should use a 1 1/4" fill pipe and a 3/8 vent off the top? This is gravity fed? And then have a separate city water connection? Is there a way to have one hook up and have a valve to fill the tank then bypass into the system? ...
One connection sounds like a good idea, but it turns out it really isn't. You'd still have to have a fill valve and you'd also have to have a vent line bigger than the infill line, so you don't overpressure the tank. Plus what Richard said--you always need to be able to manually add some water to the tank. I've been to places where there was water available, but the male end of the hose was cut off--perfect for sticking in the manual fill port but not much use if you only have a female hose bib.
While we're talking fresh water tank, let me just mention that the factory installed drain capability that Airstream put in is stooopid, miserable, worthless (in every one of the five I have, which seems to be a reasonable sample, but they are all 70s models). Make sure you put in a reasonably large drain line and valve or you'll (1) spend two hours draining your tank and (2) if you ever get crud inside, you will clog up the valve trying to get it out.
Hi Frank
I have the same fill door arrangment on my Safari. Your original petcock is missing that has the schrader sp? air valve built into the petcock.
My exterior hose petcock fiting went into a large solid pipe inside and had a large rubber hose leading to the original metal (And pressurized) metal water tank.
When I removed the metal tank to replace it with a poly tank, I also installed a large and clear supply hose with a brass reducer to the new tank. I ran the vent from the tank to the schrader air valve at the inlet door. With the petcock hose fitting it takes awhile to fill with the hose volume set fairly slow. Otherwise it wants to bubble out of the vent valve.
I used it that way for a few years and then added a city water fill to my cold water drain line last spring. I also installed a backflow gate valve before the pump so the tank would not fill the tank and overflow out the vent.
I am out of state this weekend but can send photos and a diagram Monday. If you pm me your private email I can send the other photos of Wally hatch details and plumbing photos. I would do it here but forums will not accept my larger photo sizes. So only sending the older ones now.
Hope this helps.
Gary
Quick Links
Linear Mode
