Does aluminum do that? I mean, I know steel or iron does, but I thought that aluminum's surface corrosion "protected" the aluminum under it.
I guess the next chapter will tell!
No, unfortunately aluminum seems to rot from the inside out. At least he's got the inside pieces off, it will be easy to install a new panel now, if needed.
Well, the good news is that I checked it last night and there doesn't seem to be any perforation through. I couldn't see any light through the skin, no pin-prick holes detected.
There were some black marks which must have been what looked like possible holes, and there is definitely some pitting within the corrosion, but it doesn't look like anything went all the way through.
I was challenged by Frank to take a picture of me, standing on the ground, through the frame of my Airstream, by 5 PM yesterday.
Mission accomplished.
The back 4' are out, and it was a lot of work to remove all of the elevator bolts and screws through the channel. But, all of it was necessary. I still need to remove the next 4', but most of the elevator bolts and channel screws have already been removed on that piece.
The floor was in such bad shape, that I made a template of the curves that I will use to transfer the measurements when I cut out the new subfloor in a couple of weeks.
Then I removed all of the elevator bolts by breaking them off from below using vice grips, and unscrewed the rusty channel screws. That took a lot of effort and a long time, but I persevered.
Next I made a length-wise cut through the last section, and removed the floor in two pieces:
And then you have this:
Lots and lots of frame rot. I'll need to replace three x-members and one broken outrigger. Does anyone know of a source for the outriggers and the perforated steel x-members?
And the broken outrigger:
I've been told that out-of-doors mart probably has the outrigger, would they also carry the x-members? I could use bent steel as a substitute, but I'd like to keep the perforated steel in at least one of the x-members in order to route some of the plumbing through it.
Now, to get the final 4' of subfloor removed, and then new steel to repair the frame!
Marcus, I kknow Inland has the outriggers for the newer trailers, but they would have to be modified to work. If it were me, I'd get some angle iron and weld the broken outrigger to the frame using the angle iron as a bridge piece. Same thing with the bad crossmembers. If our Sovereign had a frame, that's how I would reattach the rotten outriggers and crossmembers.
Two of the x-members are so far gone I won't even bother scabbing in supports, I'll just replace them with new material all the way across. I could use bent steel all the way across to do the same thing and it would be less expensive than replacing with the perf'd steel that is currently in there. For the third x-member, I probably could just weld in reinforcement angle at a couple of places and be done with it. And that's the one where I really need the perforation, for plumbing to come through.
HERE are the ones that ODM carries. They are approx 5" longer than what you need but could be easily modified to fit your frame. Even if they were the correct length you would still need to cope the flanges to fit into the web of the main frame rails anyway. If you decide to get these, let me know... I can send you a drawing on how to modify the ends.
The other alternative would be to get some plate bent to a similar configuration... but these would be significantly heavier and would have no perforations for plumbing etc... If you go this route... ask for 14ga hot rolled steel.
Steve-- thanks for the tip. I'd definitely like an outrigger that is close to correct, but for the x-members, some of that bent plate would probably work well in most of the areas I'm concerned about. I will need to think carefully about the plumbing to determine where I need the perforated steel, and where bent plate would work okay.
Scott-- Yes, I'm eagerly watching yours as well. I really like these 63s, the last in a fairly stable period from 58-63. Lots of changes were made in 64, and then even more in 66. Those are certainly good years too (interior bedrooms and galleys on 66-68 Internationals are probably my favorite of them all!), but like Frank, I am really drawn to these 58-63 trailers.
I really like these 63s, the last in a fairly stable period from 58-63. Lots of changes were made in 64, and then even more in 66. Those are certainly good years too (interior bedrooms and galleys on 66-68 Internationals are probably my favorite of them all!), but like Frank, I am really drawn to these 58-63 trailers.
From decades of watching Detroit, I try not to get the first year of any new model or product. '64 was the first year of the univolt system, and '63 was the last year without. '63 would have the "latest and greatest" of the non-Univolt, so would be the most advanced of its era, "advanced" being a relative term.
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