IIRC you need to remove the casting from the arm to get the roller out -that rusty metal rod will then pop out of the cast piece.
Drill out that rusty rivet(or screw?) in your third pic to remove the cast piece from the arm.
I see in your last pic that you (or Terry?) reinforced the mounting point - very good, that was a point of weakness on mine. Another thing to check is the cast piece itself that attaches to the trailer body. I had a couple break on me while in transit - not an enjoyable experience.
Yes, I made a patch to cover the old holes where the cast bracket had torn out several times, and also to reinforce the area so hopefully it won't happen again.
So, once I drill out the rusty rivet, the head-piece casting will come off the rafter arm, is that correct? At that point don't I need to hold it to keep it from spinning, since the torsion spring will still be wound? And then I'll need to de-tension it right? Any idea how to do that?
I see in your last pic that you (or Terry?) reinforced the mounting point - very good, that was a point of weakness on mine. Another thing to check is the cast piece itself that attaches to the trailer body. I had a couple break on me while in transit - not an enjoyable experience.
We reinforced the rear one a year of so before we sold Goliath. The front one wasn't much better. I also don't remember sealing around the rear repair, it was an emergency job. You probably should check it...
So, once I drill out the rusty rivet, the head-piece casting will come off the rafter arm, is that correct?
Yes.
Quote:
At that point don't I need to hold it to keep it from spinning, since the torsion spring will still be wound?
Yes.
Quote:
And then I'll need to de-tension it right? Any idea how to do that?
Yes. Very carefully .
If you can figure out a way to keep it tensioned, that might be better - I don't know how many revolutions to re-tension it? After the road rash incident and the failure to procur new mounting brackets mine went to the dump. I don't recall it being wound very tight when I pulled it apart Maybe slowly unwind it and remember how many revolutions you make so you will know how many to make when you reload it?
Terry-- the rear one has already been reinforced as you indicated, and seems solid. Structurally I'm happy with it, just needs a bit of clean-up, not a major deal at all and is on the to-do list once I settle some of these other issues.
Well, I made progress today. Got the old awning off and the new awning installed-- about 78% correctly. I didn't get the roller tube endcap lined up correctly so one set of holes is off, and I forgot to put the scalloped edging in as well, but since I need to drill off the endcap and realign it, it's no big deal to slide in the scalloped edge as well.
Also, I'll make the appeal to everyone once again, to see if anyone has a line on this casting that I need. Way back toward the beginning of this thread, I know that Terry asked around to see if anyone had one. It seems someone might have, but I guess the exchange never occurred.
Anyway, I have one that mounts to the aft casting, but I need its mate for the frore casting. The awning operates okay without it, but it really needs the casting to help retain the roller pin and keep it from potentially lifting off the rafter arms.
Here are some different views of that casting, and I believe this is an EZ-Awn brand awning (Terry, is that right?).
Also, I'll make the appeal to everyone once again, to see if anyone has a line on this casting that I need. Way back toward the beginning of this thread, I know that Terry asked around to see if anyone had one. It seems someone might have, but I guess the exchange never occurred.
Anyway, I have one that mounts to the aft casting, but I need its mate for the frore casting. The awning operates okay without it, but it really needs the casting to help retain the roller pin and keep it from potentially lifting off the rafter arms.
Here are some different views of that casting, and I believe this is an EZ-Awn brand awning (Terry, is that right?).
Thanks in advance!
-Marcus
Marcus -
I have two E-Z Awn heads that were headed Terry's way before he sold the '63. (He's provided help for me in the past with my fridge saga)
Here's the rub... after looking at your pictures, mine are completely different than what you have. It does appear to me that they would work? It appears the arm is the same as mine was, the head is just different - I'll post some pics later this evening.
I have two E-Z Awn heads that were headed Terry's way before he sold the '63. (He's provided help for me in the past with my fridge saga)
Here's the rub... after looking at your pictures, mine are completely different than what you have. It does appear to me that they would work? It appears the arm is the same as mine was, the head is just different - I'll post some pics later this evening.
I thought it was you, but didn't have a chance to check back through the thread. Some pics would be great, and your help is very much appreciated. If I have to replace both heads, that's okay with me.
And please feel free to let me know if there's ever anything I can do to help you out-- Terry has built up a lot of well-deserved goodwill in the Airstream community, and I would love to continue that legacy, as well as the legacy of Goliath, that he and Marie began.
One other thing-- per your advice, I was VERY careful as I removed the head piece and de-tensioned the torsion springs. They had plenty of stored energy in them, but they weren't as tightly wound as I had feared, and I was able to hold them with my hands just fine as I rolled them around to release the tension. I wore a pair of work gloves and my safety goggles just in case I lost hold, but it wasn't really an issue.
Turns out about 11 turns is appropriate for the fully extended awning, by the way. And when it is "at rest" it still has about 3 turns of tension in it, which helps to keep it held tight up against the trailer body.
I must admit I think I was delaying a bit because I was slightly afraid of this step, but it was all much ado about nothing.
I thought it was you, but didn't have a chance to check back through the thread. Some pics would be great, and your help is very much appreciated. If I have to replace both heads, that's okay with me.
And please feel free to let me know if there's ever anything I can do to help you out-- Terry has built up a lot of well-deserved goodwill in the Airstream community, and I would love to continue that legacy, as well as the legacy of Goliath, that he and Marie began.
Thanks!
-Marcus
The part that slides into the arm measures 2-21/32" x 1". It then extends above for about 4-1/4"
Your "tension rod" that goes into the bracket looks the same as mine did, just held in place differently. On mine the rod slid into the bottom part of the bracket, and then the little half circle piece went over the top of it. They were connected together by two screws. The bracket itself mounted into the arm and was held in place by one large rivet.
The part that slides into the arm measures 2-21/32" x 1". It then extends above for about 4-1/4"
Your "tension rod" that goes into the bracket looks the same as mine did, just held in place differently. On mine the rod slid into the bottom part of the bracket, and then the little half circle piece went over the top of it. They were connected together by two screws. The bracket itself mounted into the arm and was held in place by one large rivet.
Cool, thanks for the pictures!
I'll measure the shank on mine today to make sure, but those definitely look like they will work. Mine are also held in place by a large rivet. I currently have a smaller Olympic doing the job (all I had handy), and that needs to be replaced, so I could switch out the head pieces at the same time.
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