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Old 11-27-2010, 06:31 PM   #21
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8 hours today...decided to skip hunting and spend some time on Dolly...I figured I'd get the bedroom roof lockers down and the bathroom walls out. Got that done by lunch although I did have to destroy the first items of the project. The screws holding the curb closet cabinet to the roof were hopelessly stuck. I basically took the closet apart instead of removing it in one piece...I don't know whats worse - rust or paint. When pulling up the bath carpet I discovered that floor had been replaced...except under the bath tub...it must be setting on out riggers ,cause there is no wood under there. I did have enough time to remove the curb side skin and insulation...and made an interesting discovery - the roof centerline is bucked rivits! That is gonna be ONE BIG piece of aluminum when it drops!
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Old 11-27-2010, 06:34 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD View Post
Sure-- I ordered Trafficmaster Allure vinyl planks. In my last trailer I used the antique elm, it looks great, is a breeze to install and basically waterproof.
This time I ordered their new cork look, which looks very much like real cork...which I have used in the past also.

This is how it looked in my 80 Excella..

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Thanks - I'm following your thread and can't wait to see what it looks like. We are leaning toward some sort of vintage looking vinyl sheet but really havent made out mind on the pattern.
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and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly https://www.airforums.com/forums/f10...ome-71609.html
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Old 11-27-2010, 07:31 PM   #23
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I can tell you from experience that is one big piece of metal, and mine was about 4 feet shorter than yours is, and bucked as well!
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Old 11-27-2010, 08:15 PM   #24
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I can tell you from experience that is one big piece of metal, and mine was about 4 feet shorter than yours is, and bucked as well!
Ok...one big question...once the ceiling hits the floor...how does an average Joe get it out of the camper!!! I'm figuring that piece must be 8 x 18!
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Old 11-27-2010, 08:53 PM   #25
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Hiho I just pulled all my interior panels. Roll them up and tie or duct tape the roll to keep it from unrolling. Oh yeah make sure your roll is smaller than your door opening.
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Old 11-27-2010, 09:16 PM   #26
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Hiho I just pulled all my interior panels. Roll them up and tie or duct tape the roll to keep it from unrolling. Oh yeah make sure your roll is smaller than your door opening.
Yup, that works good for the long 3' wide panels...I'm trying to make a plan for the roof segment that looks like it's 8'+ wide when it's rolled! I'm wondering if I have to tube it thru the front window!
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Old 11-27-2010, 09:39 PM   #27
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As to flooring, go with MARMOLEUM over vinyl. No comparison in appearance or durability. (We used cork which I like even better. OSMO Hardwax oil for that).

ecohaus | marmoleum composition tile

Forbo Marmoleum

I sure like those earlier tandem axle trailers!
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Old 11-27-2010, 09:59 PM   #28
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Ok, what is the notation for a California built International? Does it get an "I" in front also? Did they not build Internationals in Ca?

Ohio | 26 3 T NNN
(26 T 3 NNN late)
(I prefix for Int'l options)

California | 26 T(D)SS 0729 to 26 T(D)SS 0923

T=twin-bed layout; D=double-bedw

Oh...and a personal thanks to the person that, in the last 48 years, decided to use steel cored rivets on the interior...growllll!
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:10 PM   #29
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As to flooring, go with MARMOLEUM over vinyl. No comparison in appearance or durability. (We used cork which I like even better. OSMO Hardwax oil for that).

ecohaus | marmoleum composition tile

Forbo Marmoleum

I sure like those earlier tandem axle trailers!
Checking it out right now...
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:19 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
Yup, that works good for the long 3' wide panels...I'm trying to make a plan for the roof segment that looks like it's 8'+ wide when it's rolled! I'm wondering if I have to tube it thru the front window!

Yep, roll it up, tie it or tape it into a tube and slide it out the front or back window. One big lesson I learned, strip (or prep) the ceiling metal before you reinstall.. Seems rather common sense to do that but I didn't and paid big time in sore necks and shoulders stripping paint over my head for days on end.
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:24 PM   #31
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?..One big lesson I learned, strip (or prep) the ceiling metal before you reinstall...
My interior has soo much paint lathered on it I'm gonna check with a local metal stripping company to see if they can de-latex all of the sheets...
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Old 11-27-2010, 10:32 PM   #32
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Good idea, also check your local metal recycler. Wally (flyrc) found a source for a bunch of scratched 2024 aluminum in long enough sheets I was able to replace all my lower metal which was rotted out and crunched real bad from floor rot and stuff bouncing around on the frame. I think I bought 6 sheets 12' sheets for $40 a piece if I remember right. Saved hours and hours, still ended up stripping the top. You might be able to find scratched material from those vendors, pay scratch/dent prices etc since you'd probably paint it anyway?!?
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Old 11-28-2010, 12:29 AM   #33
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is that an MG
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Old 11-28-2010, 08:06 PM   #34
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A big push today...out comes all of the interior skin...the ceiling was tough, when the last rivet was cut - down it came (on my head). Then the fun part...roll it up and purge it thru the front window...

The front cap came out with some fussing...that dang thing is heavy!

Then when setting it outside I took a step from a flatbed trailer and SNAP went my right ankle...

I did take the time before heading to the Emergency Room to clean the insulation from the front cap and snap (bad choice of words) a photo...

No broken bones...Doc says its gonna hurt all winter and I can walk on it in a few days...
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Old 11-28-2010, 08:08 PM   #35
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is that an MG
Well yes it is! 1974 round fender chrome bumper Midget...it needs a Hensley to tow the 34' 'stream...
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Old 11-28-2010, 08:31 PM   #36
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Oh, yeah...Dolly was home to Mickey Mouse and his whole family...
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Old 11-28-2010, 10:21 PM   #37
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yeah mine rained chocolate sprinkles from all the tunnels in the insulation, it did help me really appreciate the smell, and lack there of when all that was gone and so was the rotten wood. Wait till you see how they wired the 12 volt!! If yours is anything like mine, wire nuts on a single orange wire throughout the trailer with just some electrical tape, wires masking taped to the skins.

You're making progress, sorry to hear about your ankle, that sucks! Glad nothing is broken, here's to a speedy recovery!
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:51 PM   #38
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I found the little resident in my 66 after having it cleaned really well inside I saw a couple of little left behind items that looked pretty fresh. Some green mouse pellets did the trick. He was found in the heater vent.
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Old 11-29-2010, 04:22 PM   #39
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[QUOTE=goransons;921741]... Wait till you see how they wired the 12 volt!! If yours is anything like mine, wire nuts on a single orange wire throughout the trailer with just some electrical tape, wires masking taped to the skins.... [QUOTE]
Hop Along Cassidy reporting in....
I thought I'd post a photo or two of the state-of-the-art 1963 12V electrical system...Mine has a single circuit breaker at the battery that feeds everything except the emergency breakaway switch...I don't have a break away switch!
The distribution system system is the previously mentioned 'wire nuts' where ever a new branch is needed.

Oh, 1 photo of the added rib to try and force the outer skin back into place after an obvious the-door-flew-open event

And a QUESTION! where does the mystery 12 wire go and what did it do? It exits the front cap directly behind the upper TV antenna mount. I really cant drag out a ladder, climb up and look for the wire with my foot in a support boot...
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:01 PM   #40
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Great find! Aircraft Spruce is a good source for Alum. as well. the Southeastern warehouse is in Peachtree City, GA, by Mapquest 6 hours away from you.

If you want me to do any checking with them for you, I live nearby the warehouse.
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