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Old 09-17-2006, 05:41 AM   #1
tgregory13
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Profile:  1963 26' Overlander
Fuquay , North Carolina
Posts: 54

63 Overlander Rehab....

So it begins.... since it has final cooled off here in the south i started gutting my 63 Overlander... I have some floor rot at the back from the rear window( about 8" from the wall). in addition, i have some more at the front door ( about 2" from the wall), and i'm pretty sure there is some behind the kitchen counter.... thought i would throw up some photo's here and there so you guys let me know where i'm screwing up....

I think my lab "Cody" knew i was in for a project when i pulled the AS up in the driveway by the look he gave me in the picture below....

anyhow enjoy...
Todd
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Old 09-17-2006, 05:44 AM   #2
tgregory13
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Profile:  1963 26' Overlander
Fuquay , North Carolina
Posts: 54

another photo

missed uploading this photo....
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Old 09-17-2006, 05:57 AM   #3
tgregory13
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Profile:  1963 26' Overlander
Fuquay , North Carolina
Posts: 54

here is a good shot of the old fresh water tank and the electric water heater that the PO installed.... still need to get the toilet up and remove the black tank as well.....

does anybody know if the bolts, that hold the fresh water tank down, have nuts on the other side that you need to put a wrench on or should i be able to to just un scew them from the top side....
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Old 09-17-2006, 11:04 AM   #4
GreatPumpkin
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Profile:  1964 26' Overlander
Colville , Washington
Posts: 979
Images: 70

Welcome to the forums (and the early 60's Overlanders) - looks like you're well on your way into the restoration process. You'll find alot of good resouces here on the forum - familiarize yourself with the Search button above to the right.

A couple good threads for gleaning info on your vintage unit are:

A 63 for me! (many good ideas for your new to you Trailer)

A New Challenge-our 63 Overlander rehab project

1962 22' Safari

and My '64 Overlander Adventure (this one's mine - may or may not be very much help, I'm still fairly new myself)

The first 2 links have been a great source of info for me. (restorations) The 3rd is also a good link, for a beautiful rebuild (non original)
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Old 09-18-2006, 05:25 AM   #5
overlander63
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Profile:  1974 31' Sovereign
all over , Fulltiming
Posts: 12,746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgregory13
here is a good shot of the old fresh water tank and the electric water heater that the PO installed.... still need to get the toilet up and remove the black tank as well.....

does anybody know if the bolts, that hold the fresh water tank down, have nuts on the other side that you need to put a wrench on or should i be able to to just un scew them from the top side....
With ours, I just unscrewed them from the floor, a good thing because the belly pan covers the underside of the water tank area.
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Old 09-18-2006, 07:24 PM   #6
tgregory13
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Profile:  1963 26' Overlander
Fuquay , North Carolina
Posts: 54

look what i found when i drop the bellypan.... i think this was the birthing place for all of the wasps in north carolina....
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Old 09-18-2006, 07:34 PM   #7
overlander63
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Profile:  1974 31' Sovereign
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgregory13
look what i found when i drop the bellypan.... i think this was the birthing place for all of the wasps in north carolina....
Only half of them, our Overlander had the other half...
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Old 09-30-2006, 06:41 AM   #8
tgregory13
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Profile:  1963 26' Overlander
Fuquay , North Carolina
Posts: 54

I'm moving forward..... i have removed evrything from the door back on the curb side, and everything from the galley bulkhead back on the street side... i also finshed dropping the belly pan from behind the axles to the front of the trailer. I have also started removing the lower inside skin at the back and i'm hoping to remove the last section of floor tomorrow. Now when i remove the last 4' of the floor will i need to support the shell with some spcers in between the sheel and the frame or will it be ok to let it hang? i might have to pull the trailer a short distance to the welder to make frame repair..

i also got a call from the shipping company on wednesday that is transporting my new axels. they said that the axles would be in that night but, i havent heard back from them for a cofirmation.... went ahead and presoaked all the running gear bolts with PB Blaster to start working on the rust. i found one shock that was missing the nut and washers that holds the shock on the mounting stud.....
its those little things that i find that scares me the most!

I have a couple of questions for you guys...

1. Does anybody know if the stock rims have a offset?
2. Does anybody know a part number for replacement shocks for my 63 overlander?
3. Does anybody have any spare time to come over and help???
4 Has anybody replace there bumper with a vintage truck type bumper?
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Old 09-30-2006, 08:00 AM   #9
rebel beck
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Profile:  1975 31' Sovereign
Oxford , Mississippi
Posts: 874
Images: 35

Love the trailer, for Cody that look on his face is telling you he is going to enjoy many great camping trips when the renovation is done
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Old 10-01-2006, 01:46 PM   #10
tgregory13
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Profile:  1963 26' Overlander
Fuquay , North Carolina
Posts: 54

should i be scared at this point???

Well, i got the rear section of floor out. The last 8" was completly rotted... i think i have enough for a pattern tho.... Now i need to get my welder buddy down to replace the crossmembers and weld on a new bumper.... Does anybody know if you can buy the channel for the crossmembers or just use some angle iron?

here are some pictures:
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Old 01-04-2007, 04:37 PM   #11
tgregory13
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Profile:  1963 26' Overlander
Fuquay , North Carolina
Posts: 54

i have been away from my overlander project.... i sure wish they would except my application for retirement so i would have more time for my projects... i decided to do the full monty and remove the shell to replace the floor and make frame repairs.... so i have started removing the galley cabinets and the front goncho then on to the lower inner skins.... i sure hope i get lucky... that never happens... and it goes easier than the nightmares i have been haveing about the process...
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Old 01-05-2007, 09:32 AM   #12
uwe
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Profile:  1963 26' Overlander
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1963 19' Globetrotter
Portola Hills , California
Posts: 4,674
Images: 40

Nightmare on Todd's Street

If you devide the restoration into smaller tasks, then it will go easy, and provide you with lots of good challenges, and satisfaction, of course. I can't even tell you how nice it was to take the trailer out for the first time after it was inhabitable. Makes all the memories of bloody knuckles, burnt fingers, sore muscles, depleted bank account, a distant history.
Anyways, you are well on your way, from the looks of it. Can you support the shell somehow and pull the frame out from under it? Makes all the difference in the world if you have clear access to the frame. I am assisting friends during their shell off restoration on a 4 Flying Cloud, and again, it is so much easier than trying to do it with the shell on.
Your trailer looks like a twin bed model, judging by the curbside large window. Mine was a double bed, but other than that, your 63 looks identical to mine.
Let me know if you need help with your tanks. My friends found some stock tanks that worked well for their Flying Cloud.

Good Luck.
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Old 01-05-2007, 10:04 AM   #13
katzklaw
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Profile:  1964 26' Overlander
Montgomery , Alabama
Posts: 127

Well I am starting my own project, a 63 Overlander.

As far as your questions go, I'll let you know when I get there.
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Old 01-05-2007, 07:14 PM   #14
malconium
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Profile:  1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Posts: 1,018
Images: 19

Quote:
Originally Posted by tgregory13
Well, i got the rear section of floor out. The last 8" was completly rotted... i think i have enough for a pattern tho.... Now i need to get my welder buddy down to replace the crossmembers and weld on a new bumper.... Does anybody know if you can buy the channel for the crossmembers or just use some angle iron?

here are some pictures:
I had a similar problem with my rear cross-member. I used two lengths of angle iron - one at the top and one at the bottom. It was 2" x 2" x 1/8" thick material. I also added two vertical pieces in the middle to tie the two angle iron runs together. It is no doubt a bit heavier than the original but it is also stronger.

Malcolm
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