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KCN · 08-03-2012, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wabbiteer

I'm glad it was HiHoAgRV who said that first...

Wow. Nice shop! We did our '73 outside and had weather push us too fast beyond the fitting steps, the back radius went from too large to too small in the blink of an eye. Patience wins the contest on the stage you're at now!

Oh, with our winds on the Front Range of Colorado...no way was I doin' this outside. Fortunately there is a set of RV storage units 2 miles from my house that a LOT of guys use for their businesses, fixin up cars, etc... so I rented a 50x20 space for as long as it takes... And Pedro is resting comfortably on the saw horses for a while. The back end has scared me from the start but I see the steps now, thanks to ya'll

I'll commence dropping the belly pan now...

KCN · 08-03-2012, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

My '63 had the same rear-botomy...I left extra wood and didn't trim it until I re-set the shell. I also didn't install the end C channels until the shell was lowered. That let me push the c channels into the corners, make sure everything was square and THEN saw the curves and rear to length. Of course that meant re-lifting that end of the shell, sawing wood, re sealing, attaching the C channel, rapping the belly pan, lowering the shell...

Okay, I feel much better about this now.... And soooo appreciate reading your trailer's story... and finding other links through that...

Now wish I had a hoist though...

'nother question..AS appeared to lay the tile flush with the sub-floor and installed the floor channel on top of the tile - is that still the recommended way to go? Seems like it's a place for moisture to worm in between the two layers...I'm thinking linoleum installed, but after the floor?

Thanks

KCN · 08-09-2012, 09:15 PM

Okay, finally got that floor off..the ends were either punky or missing, but the middle, along with the extra bolts, slowed me down. The cross members appear to be in good condition except for those I knew - the rear three, along with some outriggers and the step. I'm taking it to a sandblasting place (heavy equip auction Ritchie Bros.) across the street from my shop (also across from my shop, is a Fastenal outlet... ) The shocks/axles I know next to nothing about, other than that they clearly need work.

KC

nmbosa · 08-09-2012, 09:22 PM

Wow, you are really getting after it. Nice progress so far.

Norm

Max Well · 08-12-2012, 10:48 AM

KC, (and the rest of you as well), I am looking at the same project this winter. My question: Why couldn't you make a template off the good front floor and flip it for the rear floor? Forgive my ignorance, but aren't they the same arc? I haven't begun my project yet, so forgive me if the floors are shaped differently, but it is just a thought???

Thanks,

Ken

HiHoAgRV · 08-12-2012, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max Well

KC,... My question: Why couldn't you make a template off the good front floor and flip it for the rear floor? ..aren't they the same arc? ...Thanks,

Ken

On my '63, the front and rear curves are different. The rear is more of a decreasing arc, the front is closer to a true arc.

Max Well · 08-12-2012, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

On my '63, the front and rear curves are different. The rear is more of a decreasing arc, the front is closer to a true arc.

Thanks, that's what I wondered.

KCN · 08-20-2012, 07:16 AM

Not much work by me this week - a little stripping of the multiple layers of paint on the end-caps. I got the trailer sandblasted and off to my welder friend, who I also discovered used to work at a trailer place so he is doing some of my lights/brake work - lucky me!

Old hydraulic brake lines were still on the trailer but had been pinched off and replaced with electric brakes at some point - going to stay with the electric brakes.

Decided to re-weld the original step unless someone can tell me of a better replacement?

Thinking about going with a new bulldog hitch - thoughts on this? The old one is ...old...

KC

KCN · 09-15-2012, 10:45 AM

Okay! Picked up the trailer from my welder friend last night, still needs to be painted but I'm going to start the process of getting the floor cut. Put a new coupler/jack and safety chains on the old Marvel and stayed with that vs a whole new hitch...for now. Also kept the original step.

Got my endcaps all stripped - that was fun. Not.

BEST thing is that I got to meet Aerowood aka Kip, who VERY graciously came up to my place and spent about three hours reviewing my trailer, plans, etc.. and giving me a wealth of reference places/tools/ideas.. and took my broken rib to his place to repair! I'm in line for one of his dent rollers... Thanks Kip, you're awesome. Trying to limit myself to one new tool a day...

Ordered my new floor channel from Orange Aluminum and it's on the way - have my sheet aluminum priced. Still debating whether to go with new skins or not - stripping them is not going easily and I might spend more on stripper than new aluminum would cost.

Went to a vintage homes show in Fort Collins that featured 8 vintage airstreams - wow, I needed that for inspiration! Finally got to see my door as it SHOULD look ...The door-within-a-door.

Pictures are of MY door and then one from a finished door - couldn't figure out what those little slits were for...they are for those same Hehr locking handles that my windows use - to hold the door-within-a-door in place...who knew?? And I now know what door knob/handle to buy..the expensive Bargman one of course!

Kathy

girlscan2 · 09-21-2012, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

Here is a great resource for rivet stuff..

Welcome To The Yard

I use one of these to center drill the rivets

Rivet Removal Tool

and then drill all the way thru with a 1/8 bit

You have no idea how helpful you are! I have been reading and perusing this site to find out how to remove the rivits on my new project. BINGO!

What size rivits should I purchase?
Thanks much!

girlscan2 · 09-21-2012, 10:12 AM

LOVE the curved door KCN - you are really gettin it here. You obviously have prior experience

Nice job! An love that a fellow took the time to go to you and assist!

KCN · 10-02-2012, 07:27 AM

Now that I've started this project I'm dumber than when I started, which is how I'm supposed to feel I guess. I SHOULD have thought about the gray tanks BEFORE I did my welding..but I actually didn't know what a gray tank even WAS at that point. SHOULDA read the forums more carefully and especially Vernon's start to finish ("a 63 Overlander followed us home") and saved myself the next step, which is now to remove one of my freshly painted cross members to make room for the gray tank.

On the positive side, I've been to another rally and saw the beautiful Birdy in person, the Barstream, some incredible craftsmanship, met some wonderful AS folks, saw the most beautiful tow vehicle of all time ('36 Caddy) and got my big dent taken out ("what went in last comes out first" - Luke B. 1:1)

All is not lost.

Kathy

KCN · 10-06-2012, 08:21 AM

A) This tank was in my trailer but sealed in a Poe-like manner inside a particle-board dinette bench and not attached to anything (or even accessible). I know it wasn't original, but should I consider using it for my fresh tank?

B) ..if I do use it, knowing I'll likely be hauling it full, where would be the best location? Under the front window is my best idea for weight , but the fittings seem to be on the wrong side if I place the tapered corners to the walls, as seems to be logical. I plan on re-creating a galley streetside, but the fittings are all on the curbside. Does that matter?

Kathy

Inland RV Center, In · 10-06-2012, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KCN

A) This tank was in my trailer but sealed in a Poe-like manner inside a particle-board dinette bench and not attached to anything (or even accessible). I know it wasn't original, but should I consider using it for my fresh tank?

B) ..if I do use it, knowing I'll likely be hauling it full, where would be the best location? Under the front window is my best idea for weight , but the fittings seem to be on the wrong side if I place the tapered corners to the walls, as seems to be logical. I plan on re-creating a galley streetside, but the fittings are all on the curbside. Does that matter?

Kathy

Originally, the water tank was under a back bed.

You can install that tank under the front window.

The large fill hose will be on the road side of the front, which is where Airstream placed it in later years.

The small water hose at the bottom in your photo, is hooked to the water pump.

Make sure the water fill connection on the outside front of the trailer, is vented, so that the tank does not collapse when using the water pump.

Andy

HiHoAgRV · 10-06-2012, 10:05 AM

Try googling RV Surplus, I've seen lots of different sized fresh tanks at good prices. I got one from a mid '80's coachman. It fits under the dinette and holds about 30 gallons.

KCN · 10-08-2012, 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Originally, the water tank was under a back bed.

You can install that tank under the front window.

The large fill hose will be on the road side of the front, which is where Airstream placed it in later years.

The small water hose at the bottom in your photo, is hooked to the water pump.

Make sure the water fill connection on the outside front of the trailer, is vented, so that the tank does not collapse when using the water pump.

Andy

I dunno...both my beds had 6 drawers under 'em and not a lot of room for a tank anywhere's in there? ..anyway, I'm putting another 2 pictures up of this tank in relation to the trailer - you can see the old valve location where some clever person ripped it out so I have to patch it..another small hole (with a rose in it) that was used for...? And my streetside has no openings of any kind so I'm assuming the fresh fill was indeed that hole in the front.

Kathy

KCN · 10-08-2012, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

Try googling RV Surplus, I've seen lots of different sized fresh tanks at good prices. I got one from a mid '80's coachman. It fits under the dinette and holds about 30 gallons.

Thanks for the suggestion - how are the eyeballs?

Kathy

HiHoAgRV · 10-08-2012, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KCN

Thanks for the suggestion - how are the eyeballs?

Kathy

Recovery has been odd

. They filled my eye with a gas, as the liquid slowly re-fills the cavity the focus comes back. I'm up to 1/2 a tank now

. Unfortunately the liquid sloshes around every time I move

.

Regarding your tank, Ive seen a couple of early '60's that originally had a metal tank under the front window. If the plastic one fits and you want to reuse it, several forum folks (including me) have added removable port holes to the top side so you can get into the tank and clean it out.

KCN · 10-10-2012, 07:39 AM

My tub was de-installed when I got it - so as I order my holding tanks and figger out where the plumbing goes I have to assume that the tub sat on some sort of low support frame to allow for a drain attachment? Anyone have pictures of this/theirs? Direct me to a thread?

Without all the pictures I would be completely lost on this project - so thanks to all who have done that!!!

@Vernon - I thought Lasik was tough enough - that retina stuff sounds more fun (not). I studied your bathroom layout (with/without the TV) but I still can't tell what's under the tub...

Kathy

65CV · 10-10-2012, 06:17 PM

Kathy,

There's not much to it. My '59 sat right on the floor and drained into a trap right below the plywood. If I'm understanding your picture correctly, the hole in the back left of your trailer is the drain.

Since there was no grey tank, it just dumped right to ground.

A number of people are using the Hepvo Valve instead of a trap. Consider the Grey Tank from VTS to collect grey water. It's sized to fit between your frame rails.

John