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Old 09-12-2004, 12:49 PM   #29
Ken J
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Profile:  1958 26' Overlander
Tijeras , New Mexico
Posts: 2,342
Images: 6

Getting there

Got the final coat on the frame and first of floor sections in - making progress - using a little leverage to lift the frame makes it really easy to push the floor under the frame.

I also spent 98 cents each for conduit to run brake wires. Will also use it to run the a/c wire to the fuse box.

Ken
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Old 09-12-2004, 06:15 PM   #30
uwe
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Profile:  1963 26' Overlander
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1963 19' Globetrotter
Portola Hills , California
Posts: 4,698
Images: 40

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfshr
Yeah, but then, so is a fire

FF
I know it seems that heat is heat, but our climate gets humid in September, and it's the first time that 90F has bothered me.
Usually I just bring a few gallons of water to drink and go for it, slowly.
Welding in the heat sucks, though.
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Old 09-12-2004, 06:17 PM   #31
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Profile:  1963 26' Overlander
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1963 19' Globetrotter
Portola Hills , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
Got the final coat on the frame and first of floor sections in - making progress - using a little leverage to lift the frame makes it really easy to push the floor under the frame.

I also spent 98 cents each for conduit to run brake wires. Will also use it to run the a/c wire to the fuse box.

Ken
Hey Ken, this looks great! Don't hurt yourself...
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Old 09-12-2004, 07:50 PM   #32
Ken J
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Profile:  1958 26' Overlander
Tijeras , New Mexico
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Thanks - I feel better about it as each piece goes in - pretty unstable with the whole floor out. I'll update again when floor is in.

Ken
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Old 02-24-2005, 07:10 PM   #33
Ken J
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Profile:  1958 26' Overlander
Tijeras , New Mexico
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An update.....

It has been a while since I updated this thread......

Winter got me as I was trying to get the floor done. I had a little epoxy problem in that I could not get a section of epoxy to fully cure. So that was it for floor replacement till spring. I waited several months for the epoxy to cure - talked to all kinds of experts on it and finally heated/scraped the old epoxy, put a new coat on and let it cure in a room that I heated to 80 degrees. Since the fall I have completed all the interior cabinets, installed new tail lights (about a month before I found out reproduction lenses were being made again ) - they are nice stainless steel so they should work pretty good, fixed the wheel wells, and rebuilt all the interior lighting.

I've done about everything I can do until spring, so I'm on hold till then. At that time I'll get the floor bolted down, then all new running gear, belly pan and polish. Hopefully by late summer I'll be able to get into the interior and install all these new cabinets that I have scattered all over the house. - as you can tell from the picture of my dining room full of Airstream cabinets.
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Old 02-24-2005, 08:36 PM   #34
Ken J
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Profile:  1958 26' Overlander
Tijeras , New Mexico
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Clock restoration

I even had some time to restore this cool clock I got from ebay for the trailer
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Old 03-16-2005, 10:13 PM   #35
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Hi Guys, I really like the plywood you used on your floor. I am doing mine soon with the epoxy on the edges-good idea! Where can I buy the acx, doug fir? Is there a difference between this and marine grade? I want to use a good wood but dont want to break the bank either, any suggestions? TIA
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Old 03-17-2005, 12:03 PM   #36
Ken J
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Profile:  1958 26' Overlander
Tijeras , New Mexico
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I purchased my ACX at a local lumberyard - I live in a rural area, so I know it would be very easy to find in Salt Lake. Salt Lake has a large plywood dealer that sells marine - if you need the name, let me know. Anyway, I don't think you need marine. The glue in marine is the same as ACX - the core layers are a little better than ACX - the big difference is that marine does not have any voids in layers so it makes for easier bending. Since the trailer floor is flat, there is really no need for marine. The cost for ACX if pretty reasonable - if I remember I think I paid about $40 per sheet for 5/8".

Also another tip, buy your epoxy from Fiberglass coatings in Florida - much cheaper than West Marine and all epoxy is basically the same - also be careful with mixing and temp - as I found out the hard way - easy stuff to use as long as you follow directions - epoxy is very toxic so wear a resporator

Ken
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Old 03-17-2005, 09:03 PM   #37
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1958 22' Flying Cloud
1963 19' Globetrotter
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I used ACX also, worked out fine so far.
I sealed every panel with a few coats of Varathane.
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Old 03-17-2005, 10:09 PM   #38
markdoane
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I used 3/4" ACX, edge sealed with epoxy.
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Old 03-17-2005, 10:49 PM   #39
58BUBBLE
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ACX it is then. You guys are my mentors. Don, I really liked your "Shell On" floor replacement idea but in the end I decided to go with "The Full Monte". Thanks for the help and stay tuned because I will definently have more questions.
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Old 06-18-2005, 09:00 PM   #40
Ken J
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Profile:  1958 26' Overlander
Tijeras , New Mexico
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Progress!!!

Floor is now done and I've done a first pass polish on the stree side. Starting to look like a trailer again.

Next project is new axles, then belly....

Ken J.
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Old 06-19-2005, 12:31 AM   #41
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1958 22' Flying Cloud
1963 19' Globetrotter
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Yeah!

Looking good there, Ken.
Did you get the metal for the belly covering yet?
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Old 06-19-2005, 12:42 AM   #42
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Profile:  1961 26' Overlander
Gabriola Island , British Columbia
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Looks great. What did you use to polish?
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