What are you guys doing about "wash" water tanks. I've about talked myself into above floor tanks inside the wheel wells on each side. Connected low with pipe running around the back between them. Would us a marine shower pump to bring the shower water up to the tanks. Connecting it high on the tank on the same side. Gives me 100 gallons but all over the axel. Could do a 4 day stay and empty on the way out.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
What are you guys doing about "wash" water tanks. I've about talked myself into above floor tanks inside the wheel wells on each side. Connected low with pipe running around the back between them. Would us a marine shower pump to bring the shower water up to the tanks. Connecting it high on the tank on the same side. Gives me 100 gallons but all over the axel. Could do a 4 day stay and empty on the way out.
My 63 will have 55 gal grey, 18gal black, and 52 gal fresh.
Grey is inside frame rails under floor right behid the rear axle.
Fresh is under floor right ahead of the front axle.
Black is on top of floor under toilet in rear of trailer.
I have done extensive frame mods to accomodate the tanks. I boxed in teh C-channel,and installed double strength cross members fore and aft of the sub-floor tanks. The frfame still has enough flex to be an Airstream, but now has enough beef to carry the tanks, even when full.
The frame modification added about 120lbs of metal to the overall weight.
I think that this installation will be very close in function and quality as it is in the new trailers, without the use of pumps or macerator etc. God gave us gravity - why not use it.
The cavities between the frame rails and cross members can take sizeable tanks, even without difficult mods. Take a look, you might be surprised.
My 1971 has a 36gal grey tank retrofit, which works flawless.
btw, tank vents are very important for proper function of the tank system.
Right, vents. Almost forgot about that. Where did you find tanks swallow enough to fit within the rails. Looks to be 6 inches. So your fresh water pump is under the floor or do these self prime up.
Would only need pump for the shower when not connected to sewage.
Also trying to maximize cold weather tolerance.
I saw the pic of your frame, or someone who did similar. Very nice work.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
Right, vents. Almost forgot about that. Where did you find tanks swallow enough to fit within the rails. Looks to be 6 inches. So your fresh water pump is under the floor or do these self prime up.
Would only need pump for the shower when not connected to sewage.
Also trying to maximize cold weather tolerance.
I saw the pic of your frame, or someone who did similar. Very nice work.
I found a few places that make affordable ( less than $ 400ea.) custom tanks.
You can go as deep as 6-8 in, your frame rails are 4 in.
The bracketry can easily be bolted on or welded to the frame.
If you enclose the tanks with underbelly and insulation, then you can add a heater duct and make them winter proof, if that's an issue.
I've removed the floor... its interesting that the floor was not rotted, except in the very front of the trailer - however, the old wood was pretty gross, smelly old yuk. Also, some of the bolts had pulled through and the wood around the bolts were rotted - so I've learned that just because a floor is solid does not mean it doesn't need to be replaced.
The frame is in GREAT shape - no rust! So I've cleaned it up and at this point it is primed ready for final coat. New wood was cut using pieces of the old floor (hope it fits!), I've epoxied the edges soooo now the floor goes in - easier said than done. Here of pictures of the progress........
I think the plywood is similar to yours, acx, doug fir - think its called sanded superply.
I also took your advice and coated with Varathane as well as the epoxy. My plan is to get it in, then give it a second coat of Varathane.
Thanks for your encouragement
Ken
Good idea on the second coat.
I put on 2 coats, and I am glad I did it. I am walking on this new wood now, rolling the floor jacks and tools,a nd it has not accepted any dirt, other than deep scuffs from dragging the shell across it, ahem.
I'll recoat teh scuffs later.
My shell is sitting 4" above the floor, supported by 4 jack stands. This week is belly wrap time. I got all new belly pieces cut and laid out, will attach at the frame first, then bend up and over the channel.
I found some nice closed cell foam for insulation. It's a packaging foam by-product, closed cell foam sheets, about 3/4 in thick. I use it to lay on onder the trailer when i take my afternoon naps.....er, when I work under the trailer. I noticed immense warmth on my back, even though the concrete floor is usually cold. So, I am going to cut up these sheets and use them for flooring insulation. I can stick them to the bottom of the floor with liquid nails out of the caulking gun, and a few staples for immediate support.
The reason I'm waiting to do the second coat after I get it in is because I'm going to be gluing/screwing butt joints and figured I'd give it a good final coat after all thats done. I really like that Varathane - thanks for the tip.
Creampuff brought his 67 Safari over last week for some body work.
we disconnected most of the windowsheet on the street side, and massaged out some scratches and dents. It'spossible, by the way. Just take your time and keep working the aluminum, and eventually the creases subside to an all but invisible state.
Anyways, Murray ( Creampuff) and I buck riveted the panels back together, and it worked great. Used the rivets from Aircraftspruce, and my little air hammer. 1 second, medium pressure, on a very low setting did the job.
The bucking bar just basically needs to be held against the back of teh rivet sort of like with 10-15lbs of pressure. I practiced on a few pieces first, but it was quite easy.
I'm really glad to hear that. Soon as the floor is in, I start on the skin - don't let me get too far ahead of ya ......
In my case, I've got a big ol long scrape on one side, plus an old recepticle hole (P.O. used two power cords - one for the trailer and one for a/c - I'm combining them to one) and on the other side, I've got a scrape and a tear from what I assume was either a tire blow out (wheel well is ok though) or slopy tire removal plus the old stove vent and the old water heater cut out (will fit with a modern water heater). If all works out, should have nice new clean sides.
Keep up the good work gentlemen. I sense a vintage Airstream redo in my future and you guys are paving the way for the rest of less-adventerous folks. I think I'll have to move out of the heat before I take on another vintage Airstream though unless I get a cooled shop with tall ceilings. Yeah, fat chance. Guess I can live vicariously through you guys. Keep up with the postings, its inspirational.
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