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Old 11-29-2011, 10:13 PM   #41
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Still haven't posted photos, I need to do that! I did insulate the back half of the trailer then put on the belly pan. Then all went downhill!!! The body would not fit back on! I had to remove the belly pan, move the c-channel in and trim the floor. I put it all back together, and it is very tight still. Now the front is too tight, and I haven't even begun working on the belly pan up there. So I guess, I need to do a little floor trimming up there before I even begin. I thought I had the floor perfect! So things are not going as smooth as I had hoped, oh well, gotta keep going anyway!
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:26 PM   #42
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Well I took little break from the trailer since I have been so frustrated with fitting the shell back on the floor with a new belly pan. But bit by bit I have been working to get it back together. So here is the update. Rigid foam insulation glued up , new belly pan up. Working on riviting the body back on.
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:32 PM   #43
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Next I am putting a new panel up o. The curbside. There was a huge cutout for the fridge that I don't want, when I took off the original, it had a second panel over it, but I dons know why, their was no obvious damage that I saw, but there was a strip near the door cut away that may have been damaged in the fire. Hope to have it all up tomorrow and clecoed. I have to wait for one of my helpers to get home from school to hold the bucking bar! Impossible to buck rivet by yourself!
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:16 PM   #44
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This one panel on the exterior had been replaced previously with blind rivets that I have not seen before. They are hollow on the back side. Anyway, several were pulling out and after doing a test polish and realizing it was anodized aluminum, I decided maybe I should replace it. I did not realize it was a compound piece, until I has it out. So now what!?! I don't know if it is worth looking for someone with an English wheel to fabricate a piece or look for one at a salvage yard. Any ideas? Thanks!!
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:22 PM   #45
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You can get the anodizing off with oven cleaner. It will look REALLY ugly after you spray it on & rinse it off. It might take a couple coats to get it all off. Compound it when you're finished & it should polish up.
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:40 PM   #46
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Thanks Becky! The anodized finish is already off, it has been polished in the past, but it just does not shine the same way, oh well, looks like it will be going back on anyway. No way to really redo the compound panels.
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:21 AM   #47
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The new side panel is in and I have most of the rivets done. It is not as easy to get a volunteer(one of my 3 kids) to hold the bucking bar as I thought.

I also put the end cap panel back on, and had a heck of a time getting the holes to line up again, and when I did, it didn't fit as well! I can't figure out why!

I started on my first round of polishing the rear lower panels. Will do the second cut today.

I also put on a patch over and old patch that had been done with steel rivets. I am going to put my fresh water fill here. I think it was her originally, then moved forward at some point.

Using the mineral spirits to clean up the Tempro does a great job of removing the old polish too! Wow!
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:08 PM   #48
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Does anyone know what type of Aluminum the 50's hehr windows were made from? I am thinking of fabricating one for the kitchen window. Right now there is and aluminum slider window crammed in the old hehr frame. I am guessing that it was damaged in the fire.
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Old 03-07-2012, 05:06 AM   #49
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What size window are you looking for? Is it a hehr standard or a clear view? I have been playing musical windows with my 57 and may have one that will work for you
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:34 AM   #50
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When you put your end cap panel back on did you start shooting in the middle and work out towards the edges of the panel? If you did not you can drill the rivets out and re- rivet it and you will not end up with the pucker in the middle.
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:56 AM   #51
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Hi Brad,
The opening is 30"x17 3/4" Hehr standard. I have been looking for the last year for a window. I have one that is 34 X 18 standard with the double window, but that is really too wide. I would be so happy if you have one!!!!!!
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:59 AM   #52
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Hi Kip,
No I didn't do it that way! I was wondering if the panel shrunk in two days!! I guess I should have know, but I really thought it would go right back in! Guess I have some work to do today......again!!! I hate doing things twice!!!
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:33 AM   #53
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Great looking work. Thanks for posting so we can follow along
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:45 AM   #54
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Hi Kip,
No I didn't do it that way! I was wondering if the panel shrunk in two days!! I guess I should have know, but I really thought it would go right back in! Guess I have some work to do today......again!!! I hate doing things twice!!!
Don't beat your self up as that is a common mistake. Can you post a picture of what your buck tails look like as it looks like you may be over shooting them.
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Old 03-07-2012, 01:05 PM   #55
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Ok, here are the shots of my rivet's backsides. Too much? There is also a hole that is in this panel. It looks like there was no real water damage from it, but wondering what the best way to patch it would be.
What do I do if I have a hole that is too big for part of the rivet head to cover? I drilled a hole from the backside that slipped and made the hole at an angle. Should I just replace the whole panel? Suggestions greatly appreciated!

Whomever replaced this piece did not measure the original spacing of the holes at all!
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Old 03-07-2012, 01:47 PM   #56
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this is what i did:
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Old 03-07-2012, 05:12 PM   #57
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Ok, here are the shots of my rivet's backsides. Too much? There is also a hole that is in this panel. It looks like there was no real water damage from it, but wondering what the best way to patch it would be.
What do I do if I have a hole that is too big for part of the rivet head to cover? I drilled a hole from the backside that slipped and made the hole at an angle. Should I just replace the whole panel? Suggestions greatly appreciated!

Whomever replaced this piece did not measure the original spacing of the holes at all!
The bucktails look fine. For the first hole that is half covered you can fix a couple different ways. To repair it and make the hole go away and not show would be to plug it with a flush rivet but this would require you to remove the outside panel. The other way would be to route the interfering outside metal away and plug with either a flush or button head rivet.

The extra holes you have in the other panel I would not worry about and just seal.

Just how big in diameter is the slipped hole? Picture please.
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:45 PM   #58
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Here is the photo of the over sized rivet holes. There is two next to each other. Hope it is clear in the picture.
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Old 03-08-2012, 08:04 AM   #59
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If the holes are in the upper layer of skin only you can just seal them up.
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:46 PM   #60
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Thanks Kip, is it only the outer layer, so that is what I will do!

Today did a prelim polish on the baggage door and went a bought a new lock for it. Then took the rear clear view window off. I didn't remove the frame from the body. I am debating weather it is really necessary to remove the window frame. This trailer had virtually now water damage, so I am thinking it may be better to not disturb the seal and rivets. Is that wishful thinking?
I started to put a patch on the roof where the heater exhaust was, I am going to use a different kind of heater.
I cannot figure out how to remove the old hehr standard window with the crank. I have done may of the hehr standard with the leaver. I guess I will need to break down and buy the bit for the old screw heads that hold the crank on!!
Also began working on the trim in the wheel wells using the method mentioned on several threads using the "J" rail. Still need to go back and clean it up though, but not to difficult.
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