1958 Traveler Restoration (East Coast Edition)

[js58traveler]

I am going to start reporting in on our full restoration of my 1958 Traveler #4019 we purchased from New Hampshire a little over a year ago. I will start with the photos of when it was purchased in the fall of 2018. It was complete and original but with rot in the floor and in the interior. The intent is to redo it in the spirit of the original floor plan and materials.

[js58traveler]

The first thing done was to measure and document the existing plan layout. I drew it up on CAD. See the first photo. Shown in the plan are the wheel wells as they have to be accounted for.

Making things interesting was the fact of the sloped aft wall and the curved side walls. Measurements were taken at the floor, but I was aware that deductions were to be made at the aft end (for the bed location as original) and additions were to be made to the sides (at the counter top location as original, the head with shower as proposed, the refrigerator cabinet as proposed and the L-shaped front lounge as original).

See the second photo for the proposed layout. It is pretty much what came with the trailer. What is different is the curbside forward toilet (to be a closet) has been relocated to the mid street side former closet, also widened to include a shower. The bed in the aft end stays, including the ability to enter the Airstream through the rear hatch in a bind. The pneumatic folding table will be able to be lowered to form a bed up front. With the folding table removed there is still a nice wider area as original for activities. The freshwater tank remains at the rear curbside above the floor, under the bed. The water heater, not labeled, will be on the street side under the bed, where the former built in hamper was.

Appliances will be new. I planned the bath by purchasing a molded pan for a #360 Western Wilderness RV from rvpartssierra.com (see the attached photo). The floor pan butts up to the wheel wells, over which will be the sink and counter. I will have a 20 gallon grey water tank and a 8 gallon holding tank, both form Vintage Trailer supply, below the floor. The holding tank has the internal support option for directly supporting the toilet on top, reducing its capacity somewhat.

Finally, I superimposed the frame over the proposed layout plan (I removed the belly plan to measure the frame) to attempt to head off any interference with the plumbing. The intent is to keep the 3" frame depth, locally increasing it to 5" over the axle (but set set back from the sides) to fit the tanks, plumbing and have to have the 5" depth not be easily seen from the side, maintaining the thin floor profile.

[InsideOut]

Looks like a fun little project to follow along! Good luck - I hope you get as much enjoyment from your vintage-gem as we have ours! Take lots & lots of "as-built" pictures as you start your restoration - they will come in handy later.


Shari

[wam52]

Hi Shari,
This was one of my collection which I was so happy to sell to these folks from CT. We had not planned to go to WBCCI Loveland but changes in our plans now may see us there in 2020! If you and Rob are there we'll have to get together!

WAM

[InsideOut]

Awesome Wayne...we'll be there, Loveland is in our backyard afterall ~ no excuses! It'll be nice to catch up, it's been awhile.

Shari

[js58traveler]

With the layout planning somewhat thought out we proceeded with the removal of fixtures and finishes. All of the cabinets and panel wall tracks were saved (cabinets will be made from new material in the same manner of the old cabinets, no more, no less). Appliances were recycled. The one complete gas lamp was saved to be re-incorporated. The interior wall panels were removed at the lower wall height to allow access to the floor tracks, while the upper wall panels remained installed to contribute to the rigidity of the shell when lifted. The floor tracks were labeled with their track bolt locations, both on the track and adjacently on the floor so the floor panels could be used as templates for the bolt hole locations in the new floor panels. The lower wall panels and remaining upper wall panels were all labeled (as seen in the photos) in the order of removal to assist in their re-installation. A paper template was made (from rosin paper used to underlay lay wood floors) of the floor, tight against the floor track, to confirm re-positioning of the track on the new floor, which was not needed as later seen.

Floor rot was concentrated at the removed cast iron holding tank at the front curb side corner, extending down to the nearby door, and under the curb side aft fresh water tank, extending down to the rear hatch. The original marmoleum floor tiles where mostly gone. The wheel wells had taken hits over the years from exploding tire treads. The original fresh water fill cap was removed to remove the tank and a new reproduction fill ordered from VTS.

[Camper Crazy]

What a sweet little trailer! Love it, love it, love it. Good luck with the restoration and glad you're keeping us posted.
CC

[C Gin Go]

Following

[seldencove]

Looks like this is going to a great documented restoration...and I understand you may have your very own "Rosie the Riveter" on staff?

[ddhisself]

Wow! What a 'doll-buggy'! I'm excited to follow along!

[js58traveler]

Time to install the shell bracing for the lift. I brought in two longitudinal beams of 2-2x8's, 12 feet long, through the rear hatch and screwed them together inside the trailer. I held them about 18" + from the front and rear walls. I temporarily put them on edge vertically to unsure a flat floor fore-aft, jacking up the rear bumper slightly as required. There is not too much sag in the rear of an 18' traveler. I aligned the longitudinal 2-2x8 beams with the jambs of the front and rear windows (for the most part) and then toe screwed them to the floor. See Photo #1.

After clipping the corners of 2x6's I brought them also in through the rear hatch and installed them athwartship (used to design submarines) at the wall main frame lines, cut slightly shy of the shell skin. The corner clips were required due to the curvature of the shell. The athwartship 2x6's were lapped with the sides of the shell frames and then screwed with self tapping sheet metal screws. 2x6's were used to allow them to cantilever out past the longitudinal floor beams and support the weight of the shell frame after the beams are jacked off the floor. The exception was the frame at the wheel wells had a raised 2x3 placed across to clear the well at that frame, which was later blocked down to the longitudinal beams.
See Photo #1 again

To brace the longitudinal 2-2x8 beams from horizontally racking when lifted off the floor 2x3's where installed diagonally on top of those beams, between the athwartship members.
See Photo #2

2x3 cross bracing was then installed from the ends of the athwartship members up to the opposing shell frame, just under the underside of the remaining interior skin. The 2x3's allowed flexing when needed to install where 2x4's would be too stiff. I deemed the shell had enough bracing with its upper interior shin still in place so as not to install upper horizontal bracing above the cross bracing.
See photo #2 again.

The fore and aft ends of the shell where then braced. Horizontal 2x6 outriggers were screwed onto the top (or side) of the ends of the longitudinal 2-2x8 beams (which stopped short of the end walls), positioned as required to lap with the window jambs, once again clipped, held back from the skin and then screwed to the frames. Across the top of the rear end of the longitudinal beams additional horizontally diagonal outriggers were placed to reach out to the corner frames in the curved walls. On top of all these outriggers diagonal braces where placed up to the shell frames just under the remaining interior skin.
See photo #3.

Finally, 2x blocking was installed between the longitudinal and athwartship beams to keep those beams vertical during the lift.
See Photo #2 again.

[prairieschooner]

Interested, you may want to check my restoration pages when you get a chance, might be helpful to you as you get further along. I didn't have to as far as you but then mine was a California trailer all of it's life.
Steve

[js58traveler]

We discussed what you did for the axle previously. Your blog is my inspiration. And that is correct, you do have a very nice clean Traveler.
Harry

[js58traveler]

Getting ready for the lift I had to separate the shell from the floor track. I first removed the exterior corner aluminum tack belt strips from the front and rear of the trailer, which simply unscrewed. I then I used the VTS Rivet Removal Tool to easily and cleanly remove the rivets between the shell and the perimeter floor track, including the rivets along the top circular edge of the wheel wells. I then used a putty knife to separate the top flange of the wheel wells from the outer skin, slicing the original butyl tape between the two. I also then ran the putty knife under the shell skin, between it and the belly plan (which is crimped over the floor track).

Now for the lift. Using two car floor jacks I positioned one each under front most and rear most 2x6 athartship member. Alternating the jacking, and temporarily supporting the athwartship member when being jacked so the shell would not roll longitudinally, I raised the shell off the floor. When high enough I slid in two athwartship2-2x8 10 foot long lifting beams. These were placed on 2x blocking on the floor next to the perimeter floor jack so the lifting beams cleared the track. I then lowered the shell so as to block between the longitudinal beans and the athwarthip lifting beams so the later would not roll.
See Photo #1

Now I proceeded to jack the shell up, once again alternating and temporarily supporting each side of the the stationary jacks. The shell was lifted high enough so as the bottom of 2x6 athawarthip members where above the interior wheel wells. I bocked the ends of the lifting beams down to stacked 8" CMU piers and then cross braced the ends of the lifting beams with 2x3's to prevent the ends from rolling.
See Photo #2 and #3.

Removing the jacks and what not on the floor deck I then used wheel jacks to slide the trailer bottom sideways to align with the garage door (I had the trailer pushed to one side in the stall to make is each day to day to walk by it going into the house).
See Photo #4

I then checked inside to make sure the entire lifting frame cleared the top of the wheel wells. I remembered to remove the front trailer tongue post too as that would not slide under the lifted shell.
See Photo #5

Then I walked out the trailer from the garage!
See the video.

[js58traveler]

Here is the video of walking out the trailer from the Garage:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f4/1...ml#post2188577

Harry

[Streamracer]

Looks as if you really prepared for no flex in the shell when you removed it. I'm enjoying your work and photos.

[js58traveler]

After the trailer was removed from the garage I started with the belly pan. The belly pan edges had been crimped over the perimeter floor track and bent down into the track , so it appears the trailer most likely was upside down in the factory so as to easily place the belly pan on top. The belly pan had been installed longitudinally with a 8" wide longitudinal center strip, all neatly riveted together at 6"oc, with the whole assembled pan being draped over the upside down frame, forward and aft of the axle. The pan was cracked and corroded where pop riveted to the underside of the frame members, so a new pan is in order.

Next to remove the rotted floor deck. First, the bolted and screwed aluminum perimeter floor tracks were taken off. The front and rear curved tracks were of a very heavy gauge and were in good shape even where there was corrosion. The side tracks however had been made from 20 gauge, the same as the shell skin (probably panel end drops), and where they were corroded they were shot. I decided to make all new side tracks but kept the originals as patterns and to see how things went together.

I then cut off the floor deck bolt nuts from below the frame steel cross members. These are flat headed carriage bolts, not elevator bolts. The flat headed carriage bolts have a smaller diameter head so that if the bolt does not go in perfectly plumb the cocked head most likely would not pop above the top of the plywood and effect the flooring. And they would be easier to locally sink into the plywood when tightened, as originally done.

The plywood panels were also stapled together at their seams, with the seams centered on the supporting steal frame cross members and the bolts centered along the seams. Not the best installation and I see the need of the staples to keep the panels together in the horizontal plane, however I will do things differently than with staples. I will use 18 gauge Simpson tie plates hidden under the side cabinetry and use of Marmeum Click Tiles for flooring to float over the seams. I am not placing Marmaoleum over the entire floor as originally done as I want to look under seat, beds, etc to make sure the plywood floor is dry at the walls (the deck will be epoxied at the seams and under the tracks and the shell seams will be sealed and windows re-gasketed, etc) and dry it out as need be.

I removed all the floor deck plywood panels (four pieces of 5/8" five ply plywood) and stored then to the side as templates. I removed the wheel wells and realized from the corrosion at their bottom flanges where they were sandwiched between the plywood deck and the supporting steel outriggers below and getting wet from the wheel well spray, they would have to be replaced.

The trailer was then rolled into the adjacent garage stall, for assessment.
See attached Photo #1 and #2

[js58traveler]

Noting the frame construction of a '58 Traveler: The main fore aft frame rails are 3" structural channels, close to modern C3x6 sections. The same member was used for the rear bumper. The frame athwartship members were cold formed 3" deep 14 gauge sections, spanning between the fore aft frame members and also outside the main frame rails as cantilevered outriggers. Just the top and bottom flanges of the cross members were welded to main C3x frame flange, while the outriggers also had their webs welded too. 1 1/2"x 1 1/2" angle stock was present between the the C3x frame rails under the front and rear wall of the shell and as the front corner outriggers outside the frame. The stair outriggers were actually 5" tall 14 gauge members, needed for the layout of the stair arm pin guide slots.

As expected the trailer frame was rusted in spots. What caused the rust was primarily the original fiberglass insulation sandwiched between the wood floor deck and the frame. The insulation would get wet from water entering along the two C3x frame rails from outside the trailer at the front, probably exacerbated from wind driven rain as the trailer was moving. The water would run down the top of the rails and also first turn laterally and progress along the L 1 1/2x 1 1/2 angle under the front wall (water entered the top of the frame rails at the rear of the trailer in a similar fashion creating the same localized rust). Water would also enter from the leading edge of the front door. Adding to this, a leaking holding tank and fresh water tanks also rotted the deck and wet the insulation below. The wheel well outriggers also had rusted top flanges of course (like the sandwiched wheel well bottom flanges themselves), but the main frame members were fine at the wheel wells.

While the main C3x6 frame rails were for the most part fine due to their more substantial nature, the 14 gauge cross members, rusted at the wood deck bolts in the tops of the members and at the welded connections to the C3x frame, could not tolerate any appreciable rusting, with holes and compromised welds present. The cross L 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 cross angles at the front and rear walls were pretty shot too do to they were in the front line of getting wet. The only portion of the C3x6 frame rusted, but not through, was at the rear at the bumper, with about 25% material gone.
See the attached Photo #1, and #2

First I wire brushed the frame with a wire wheel on an electric 90 degree grinder, and also a small wire attachment to a drill to get in corners. I made sure no pieces of rust were left in any "pocks" on the main frame. Although I had hoped to save members, in the end almost all the cross members were cut off and replaced, one at a time. I used all the pieces as templates, to confirm their exact length and for the curved edge at the end (the same for all). What was fortunate was the random pieces not removed were used to position the new plywood deck in the future by aligning their top bolt holes with the bolts holes in the new plywood deck which I marked and drilled from the original floor deck pieces used as patterns.
See Photo #3

A final note, the forward stair outrigger had failed not so much from rust but rather from the fact that the 5" outrigger did not extend back to the C3x frame (which was at that point diagonally moving back towards the center of the trailer to meet at the tongue), being instead welded to an adjacent 3" outrigger. What failed was the guide slot in the web of the 5" outrigger stopped just and its end, leaving only a little piece of metal to hold up the lower portion of the outrigger.

[js58traveler]

Here are a couple of neat photos looking up under the braced, lifted shell with the trailer removed.

[57Vintage]

I used the Marmoleum Click and am very happy with it. The boss wanted to create a pattern so we mixed 30X30 and 30X90 (cm).



As an option on your sub-floor, I routered a slot and put in an aluminum spline. I have the added benefit that my sub-floor is not sandwiched between the frame and shell. It sits inside a perimeter frame of 1.5X1.5 square tubing the shell is fastened to.