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Old 10-10-2017, 09:27 AM   #127
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I drilled the holes before I bent the flat stock. The bolt for the top or the one that passes through the wheel is welded to the flat stock. The bolt at the bottom or the one that passes through a bracket welded to the front piece of 1" square tubing is not welded. That allows me to remove the bracket prior to removing the spare tire/wheel.
I do like the use of lug nuts instead of hex nuts to hold the spare tire in place. If I need to change a tire I will have a couple spare lug nuts just in case.
hope this helps
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Old 10-11-2017, 08:36 AM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prairieschooner View Post
I drilled the holes before I bent the flat stock. The bolt for the top or the one that passes through the wheel is welded to the flat stock. The bolt at the bottom or the one that passes through a bracket welded to the front piece of 1" square tubing is not welded. That allows me to remove the bracket prior to removing the spare tire/wheel.
I do like the use of lug nuts instead of hex nuts to hold the spare tire in place. If I need to change a tire I will have a couple spare lug nuts just in case.
hope this helps
Thanks, Steve. I think I understand it now. Yours is a slick and simple way of holding the tire in place.

I take it that you use only the bent piece of flat stock and that there is no other support at the back of the tire (towards the rear of the of the trailer) to keep the tire from rubbing the skin of the trailer.

Thanks for your help on this.

Hank
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Old 10-11-2017, 09:26 AM   #129
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You got it, if you look at the pics you'll see the flat stock goes behind the wheel. It still can "flex" a little but since I wasn't trying to make it rigid it shouldn't create any issues. The square stock does most of the work since the tire wedges itself in place and the flat stock just keeps the tire from going backwards.
You will want to use an acorn nut on the threaded rod that holds the LPG tanks in place so you don't run into it when using the jack.

Hope this helps
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Old 04-28-2018, 09:33 PM   #130
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Quick update...all has been well & we have been traveling around locally doing vintage trailer rallys.
Now the wifey found out about the VAC starting in Baker City & going to Bend & then Salem. Now getting ready for that so need to finish the polishing. Need a 12 Volt Charging Station.
I picked up a Yeti 35 Qt Cooler to keep the food good while traveling & some Yeti Blue Ice to hopefully help the Krefft stay cold while moving without LPG or electric.
Also converted the Heater to have a Thermostat thanks to 50s Aluminum;
50s Aluminum
He sent me a burner with the Valve, all it needed a new Pilot Generator but now all is well after a quick visit to Zoro
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Old 05-25-2018, 09:14 AM   #131
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I ran into a problem when attempting to install the Window Gaskets on the front & rear windows. I got the stuff from Vintage Trailer Supply but having troubles. After removing the old gaskets or seals I cut to size & installed only the bottom Gasket and now the window will not close. The new gasket is too thick.
I'm in contact with Vintage Trailer Gaskets and hopefully he can help, we leave in a couple of weeks for Oregon VAC.

Anyone have any other ideas? This pic is of the stuff that doesn't work well;
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Old 05-26-2018, 08:40 AM   #132
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If your windows are similar to the windows in my 1956 Flying Cloud, you might be able to use the VTS D gaskets (which come in 3 sizes) on the swinging portion of the windows.

Hank
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Old 09-14-2018, 08:59 AM   #133
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I found the right place! Vintage Trailer Gaskets had the correct seals for my windows! Their stuff worked as i should & they were very knowledgeable and helpful when I discussed this with them. Here is a link;
http://www.vintagetrailergaskets.com/
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Old 09-14-2018, 09:15 AM   #134
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leak & seal

During our trip to Oregon a leak appeared and of course it was right over my bunk (at my feet). Luckily we headed to the coast & down the Cali coast shortly after so a little tape helped 'til we got home.

When we got back home, I took a syringe and pumped water in the seams to find the location of the leak. It was at or near the rear window. Next was to remove the window frame at the inside so that I could isolate the area. This made it much easier to identify the leak.
After finding the leak it was evident that I should remove the eyebrow so that the repair is completed with no future issues. After I removed the eyebrow I found the caulking under the eyebrow was dried out & not working anymore. This made me remove the eyebrow for the trunk as well.
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Old 09-14-2018, 09:20 AM   #135
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Before caulking I polished those areas and then used Parbond to caulk the rear window and questionable seams.
I also polished that area around the trunk and should be able to caulk it when I re-install the eyebrows
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Old 09-22-2018, 09:24 AM   #136
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I tapped of the rear window first and caulked it, then I was able to tape & caulk the seams in that area as well. I started by dry fitting the eyebrows using the Olympic Rivets to hold the eyebrows temporarily in place.
I then caulked the eyebrows with grey Sikaflex 221 prior to riveting them in place. Then triming the rivets with some side cutter.
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Old 09-22-2018, 09:36 AM   #137
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After walking away for a few days to allow the Sikaflex to cure I used the Olympic Rivet Shaving Tool to shave the rivets. They were still somewhat rough so I polished them with Nuvite F9 and all looks great now. Hopefully next time we find rain my feet will remain dry.
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