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Old 10-14-2013, 07:28 AM   #15
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We got it home.
I knew there was going to be some floor repair in the back, we pulled the bed and frame out. . . . crap.

Time for a complete replacement. Oh no, it's starting.

Front corners are also very soft.

and the sweet 110 circuit.
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Old 10-14-2013, 01:06 PM   #16
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And you were thinking maybe no repair needed after just 55 years? Looks pretty good all things considered! Now would be a great time to make a template!!!!
Cliff
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Old 10-14-2013, 01:54 PM   #17
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I knew there would be repairs.

I just hope it holds together before we get it replaced.
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Old 10-14-2013, 08:06 PM   #18
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fyi the floor tiles are asbestos
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Old 10-14-2013, 08:15 PM   #19
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This is the fun part! Just think about the rock solid trailer you're gonna have when it's all said and done!
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:33 AM   #20
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Thanks for the heads up Kevin. I hadn't thought of that.

I can pop them off, or pull up the wood with them intact, just don't cut them with a saw. Correct?

Has anyone read this article about body-on floor replacement? seems doable.

Floor Replacement - Vintage Airstream
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Old 10-15-2013, 07:53 AM   #21
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We did shell-on floor replacement in our '72. It was very doable for us. I'm not sure what differences there would be for a '58. There would be advantages in a shell-off though. Belly pan is a big one and putting in tanks if they are under floor is another. It's a small trailer though.

Kay
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Old 10-15-2013, 02:04 PM   #22
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The J or U channel is attached to the floor and through to the frame so it is doable but tricky. Really not that difficult to brace and lift the shell even if you do not remove the frame from under it and it will allow you to repair any damage to the outriggers. 2X6 braces and a couple of 4X4 X12's some cinder blocks will get you there. Hope that helps and as for the tiles you are correct just do NOT use a saw on them.
Cliff
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Old 10-15-2013, 02:14 PM   #23
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Cliff,
Can you point me to a thread on bracing, if I go that route?

I've seen pictures, but haven't seen anything in depth on bracing.

Todd
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Old 10-15-2013, 02:31 PM   #24
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Todd, I did a shell on replace on my '57, so it would be the same for yours.

The biggest downside like Kay said is the belly pan and it is especially true for our 50's trailers. The far and away best way to do our belly pans is shell off and with the frame flipped over. Shell on, it is an absolute pain trying to fit the four corners working upside down and trying to fit the sections inbetween the shell and the C channel/subfloor. On the other hand, I did mine outside and without and shop, so it is nice to be able to do the work under the shelter of the shell.

Read the long threads around here and you will learn so much about the issues you are going to run into. Make plans for what you want your trailer to be and what you'll want in terms of electrics, holding tanks, etc.

Looks like you've got a great shell and all your windows, so you have a great trailer to work with.

cheers,
steve
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Old 10-15-2013, 02:37 PM   #25
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Todd, I have seen the same threads as you an decided to do it my way! You have 4 L braces attaching the main side rails to the J channel, these side rails or ribs are thicker than the rest. Measure across from side to side and cut your 2X6 to that length. You want the end of the 2X6 to stop 1/8 inch from the outside wall attach the wood to the rib with some 1/4 inch bolts then run an angle brace up 2feet from the 2X6 to the same rib. How high for the 2X6 is easy 8inches or 1 cinder block high. Attach a second brace to the other set of ribs same as the front. Then run 2 2X4's equally spaced from front to rear under both 2X6's to the ribs in the end caps, since the 4x4's go under these you will need to screw these to the bottom of the 2x6's. Once you have all of the rivets and other attachments off (including the hidden rivets) use a hydronic or car jack a raise the shell raise the 4x4's with the cinder blocks on the outside. If you remove the frame remember to lower the shell a couple of blocks to make it a little more wind resistant. Hope this helps and if you have questions please ask I type like a 3 year old.
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Old 10-15-2013, 07:24 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddzilla View Post
Thanks for the heads up Kevin. I hadn't thought of that.

I can pop them off, or pull up the wood with them intact, just don't cut them with a saw. Correct?

Has anyone read this article about body-on floor replacement? seems doable.

Floor Replacement - Vintage Airstream
Did mine very similar to that article, and would do it the same way again. But I only did rear 4'. Personally the more I can leave unmolested the better I like it. But there are definitely pros and cons.

Be sure to read Steve's thread on his caravanner restoration, lots of good info there.

kevin
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Old 10-17-2013, 02:43 PM   #27
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1963 24' Tradewind
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Hey Todd
Congrats on that super sweet trailer. I've been trying to buy that baby for the last couple of years. Even with the floor rot it's such a cool one owner trailer. Fingers crossed the frames not too bad a shape.
Steve's aka Pbearsailor thread is awesome! Very informative and touching, a must read!
Good luck on your trailer and hopefully you'll be able to keep it as original as possible.
Mike
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Old 10-17-2013, 02:58 PM   #28
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Yeah, what a great trailer! I did a shell-on replacement too, 3 of the four panels but not the rear-most with all the electrical and stuff. I did it myself, dropped the belly pan, but mine was much, much worse than yours so removing the existing floor was pretty much just using a shop vac. Where the floor was rotted, I used a bolt cutter to cut the bolts, used Marine plywood with a two part penetrating sealer and on and on. I think if you can take the shell off, it'll actually be quicker and easier to replace the floor.
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